Podcast Summary: The Run-Through with Vogue – Episode: Veronica Leone’s Debut at Calvin Klein

Episode Details:

• Title: Veronica Leone’s Debut at Calvin Klein
• Release Date: February 11, 2025
• Hosts: Nicole Phelps

Introduction to Veronica Leone

In this episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps welcomes Veronica Leone, the newly appointed Creative Director of Calvin Klein. Veronica brings a wealth of experience from her tenure at renowned fashion houses such as Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and The Row. She also founded her own label, Queera, three years ago and was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2023. Nicole sets the stage by highlighting Veronica's unique vision: “a sharp point of view on femininity with an edge” (00:22).

Post-Debut Reflections

Recording two days after her debut show in New York, Veronica shares her excitement and fulfillment. Despite a snowstorm that added a touch of unpredictability to Fashion Week, she describes her recent time in New York as “a fantastic climax for this season” (01:18). The atmosphere was charged, especially with Calvin Klein himself attending the show.

Calvin Klein’s Feedback

Nicole emphasizes the rarity of Calvin Klein attending a show since his retirement and inquires about his reaction to Veronica's collection. Veronica recounts, “He was very excited... he couldn't stop talking about the coats” (02:21). Calvin expressed a personal connection to the collection, admiring the craftsmanship and confidence portrayed by the models. Veronica reflects on the emotional significance of having Calvin present, describing it as “the forbidden dream” realized in a natural and heartfelt moment (02:21).

Life Changes Since Appointment

Since her appointment in May, Veronica discusses the significant changes in her life. Transitioning from a peripatetic lifestyle between Rome and London, she now balances her creative endeavors between Rome and New York. “Rome became my full-time job in a way and New York is another moment of full-time job” (04:07). This dual-city approach has streamlined her workflow, making it more efficient and inspiring.

Influence of Rome on Her Aesthetics

Veronica delves into how her upbringing in Rome influences her design philosophy. She describes Rome as embodying “an absence of discipline” with normalized glamour and beauty, which she translates into her work as “the nonchalance of glamour, the nonchalance of beauty” (05:23). This manifests in her designs as effortless and casual expressions of style, ensuring that tailoring feels both comfortable and pragmatic.

Design Philosophy: Embracing Nonchalance

When asked how her Roman influence translates into her first Calvin Klein collection, Veronica explains that nonchalance in wardrobe means creating pieces that are “effortless and very casual” (06:32). She emphasizes deconstructing tailoring to ensure garments offer “a certain emptiness, a certain ease” without compromising on structure. This approach avoids simplistic designs, opting instead for resolved and efficient craftsmanship that feels natural and wearable.

Creative Process and Archive Utilization

Veronica shares her unconventional approach to the Calvin Klein archive. Unlike previous designers who heavily referenced Calvin Klein’s history, she relied primarily on her instinct, bringing only a ballet flat and a sweater from her own wardrobe (07:55). This instinct-driven process aimed to capture Calvin Klein’s “state of mind” rather than adhering to nostalgic interpretations. Interestingly, she later revisited the archives to find validation for her independent creative choices (07:57).

Vision for Calvin Klein in 2025

Veronica articulates her vision for Calvin Klein as transcending geographic boundaries to embody a universal American dream. She believes that Calvin Klein should remain a “state of mind,” focusing on spirited, energetic, and culturally relevant designs that resonate globally. “Design is very international... the brand itself, it needs to be international” (09:59).

Personal Connection and Early Memories with Calvin Klein

The conversation takes a nostalgic turn as Veronica reminisces about her first memories of Calvin Klein, notably the iconic CK1 campaign. She recalls aspiring to emulate the provocative and stylish figures in the campaigns, linking them to her own journey in fashion. Veronica also shares a personal anecdote narrated by Nicole about receiving a postcard from Brooke Shields, highlighting the deep-seated cultural impact Calvin Klein has had on multiple generations (13:35).

Target Audience for the New Collection

Veronica addresses the absence of a current customer base due to Calvin Klein’s recent silence in the market. She emphasizes targeting a broad and intelligent fashion audience who appreciates quality and eclectic wardrobe choices. Her goal is to create pieces that make customers “noticeable but not loud,” blending sophistication with intelligence (15:56). She also highlights the dual appeal of practicality and aspirational emotional connection in the brand’s new direction.

Fashion Message and Silhouette

Nicole praises the shift in silhouette Veronica introduced, noting the pivot from slouchy, full-legged pants to a more defined, skinny silhouette. Veronica explains that her focus is on the “attitude” and recognizable posture that aligns with Calvin Klein’s legacy while pushing towards a future-oriented vision. She aims to introduce “a recognizable attitude that could be Calvin and not someone else” (18:22).

Mentorship and Influences

Veronica pays homage to influential female leaders in fashion, including Jill Sander, Phoebe Philo, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. She describes them as “the most extraordinary example of female leadership and creativity,” noting their unique contributions to the industry and how they have shaped her approach to design and leadership (20:16).

Personal Style and Wardrobe Insights

When asked about her personal wardrobe, Veronica reveals her love for pants and coats, mentioning an extensive collection of black trousers and beautiful prototypes from fashion history. She expresses a sentimental attachment to these pieces, highlighting her struggle to part with items that hold significant memories (21:52).

Transition from Personal Label to Calvin Klein

Veronica discusses her decision to put her own label, Queera, on hold to focus on Calvin Klein. She compares both ventures to startups, emphasizing the responsibility and dedication required to build Calvin Klein’s new team and creative process from the ground up. She expresses optimism about potentially returning to her personal brand in the future (26:43).

Representation of Women in Fashion Leadership

Addressing the ongoing conversation about the lack of female leadership in the fashion industry, Veronica acknowledges the issue but also points out that the industry is already populated with talented women whose contributions often go unrecognized. She expresses pride in leading Calvin Klein as a female creative director and hopes to inspire a new era of female-led leadership in the industry (28:02).

Measuring Success and Future Plans

Veronica defines success for her first season by the visibility and appreciation of her designs in the public sphere. She looks forward to seeing her collection embraced by consumers and awaits the SAS campaign’s reception as a key indicator of success. Looking ahead, she plans to take a short break before moving to Paris to begin brainstorming for the next season, aiming to continuously surprise and innovate (29:42).

Conclusion

The episode concludes with Veronica expressing gratitude for the opportunity to lead Calvin Klein and her excitement for the brand’s future. Nicole reaffirms her interest in Veronica’s journey, and both look forward to witnessing the evolution of Calvin Klein under Veronica’s creative direction.

Notable Quotes:

• Veronica Leone (02:21): “He couldn't stop talking about the coats. It was very emotional and very unexpected.”
• Veronica Leone (05:23): “It's the nonchalance of glamour, the nonchalance of beauty that sticks with me as a mantra every time I practice fashion.”
• Veronica Leone (09:59): “Design is very international... the brand itself, it needs to be international.”
• Veronica Leone (15:56): “I want to make sure they trust my quality. I want to make sure they can trust my take on design.”
• Veronica Leone (20:16): “They've been the most extraordinary example of female leadership and creativity.”

This comprehensive conversation not only highlights Veronica Leone’s visionary approach to revitalizing Calvin Klein but also underscores the evolving dynamics of leadership and creativity in the fashion industry.