The Run-Through with Vogue
Episode: Vogue Editors’ Closing Thoughts On A Debut-Filled Fashion Week
Date: October 6, 2025
Hosts: Chloe Malle, Chioma Nnadi, Nicole Phelps
Guest: Claire Thompson Johnville
Episode Overview
This episode gathers Vogue’s leading editors in Paris, fresh from the runways, to share firsthand reflections on a notably debut-heavy Paris Fashion Week. Key topics include high-profile designer arrivals, the fashion energy in Paris, standout trends, show critiques, memorable front rows, evolving debates about practicality and creativity, and the increasing importance of “reality-based” clothes.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Balenciaga’s Headline-Making Show and Meghan Markle’s Appearance
(00:32–03:40)
- Chioma Nnadi recounts barely making it to Balenciaga, arriving just before Meghan Markle, whom everyone noticed:
- "I was the last person to enter the room apart from… Meghan Markle. What an interesting sighting." (00:32)
- Nicole Phelps describes Markle’s impact:
- "She truly, truly gasped when she walked by in her all white outfit." (00:51)
- Balenciaga’s presentation seamlessly blended elements from former designers Demna and Cristobal with new creative direction from Pierpaolo Piccioli, highlighted by intense "bug eye" sunglasses and a blend of couture shapes with casual, wearable touches:
- Nicole: “Even though the shapes were sort of couture-ish, they were handled in an offhanded way... it didn't feel, I mean, it's fashion, but it didn't feel serious to me.” (02:34)
2. Celine’s Scenic Show and the Return of Skinny Jeans
(05:24–09:53)
- Described as “long and far, but beautiful,” Celine’s show embraced a chic on-the-go woman, monogrammed pillows, and standout styling:
- Chloe: "Women on the go... a chic Selenian woman, grabbing her kid to bike to school. There were Celine bike helmets, which I love." (06:38)
- Return of skinny jeans draws debate, with both tailored and scarf-inspired looks featured.
- Scarves, a Parisian classic, are reimagined across houses, including Hermès and Celine, bringing fresh twists to heritage accessories.
3. The Parisian Mood: Positivity, Practicality, and Wearability
(11:02–13:22)
- Parisian editors noted “positive energy,” creativity, and a strong practical streak:
- Claire: “There's a real anchoring in kind of reality and like what women actually want to wear.” (11:39)
- Wearable pieces (denim, miniskirts, great tailoring) were highlights, with Dior’s denim miniskirts and Balenciaga accessories singled out.
4. Standout and Surreal Runway Moments
(13:24–16:18)
- Margiela’s children’s orchestra charms and unsettles, while oddball accessories like mouthpieces spark lighthearted PTSD among editors.
- “Movement” as a motif, especially at Alaïa—“I loved about the Alaia show is just like, it felt electric. It felt like full of energy.” (14:43)
5. Trend Watch: Marie Antoinette, Leather, Sheer Styles, and Color
(16:39–20:16)
- Marie Antoinette references abounded (Saint Laurent, Dior, Erdem), with designers translating historical silhouettes in non-literal, modern ways.
- Nicole: “It really moved beautifully. It was so cinematic... those will make some of the best pictures of the season, for sure.” (17:23)
- Counterpoint: Parisian toughness and realism—leather jackets, bracing outerwear, and bold color everywhere.
6. Debuts and the Art of Balancing Heritage
(21:11–26:35)
- Editors weigh in on why some debuts work:
- Chloe: “Designers who… are able to thread the needle between referencing the codes of the house but also really making it clear what their stamp is.” (21:11)
- Tom Ford under Haider Ackermann, Givenchy under Sarah, and Schiaparelli under Daniel Roseberry cited as positive examples.
- Multidimensional casting and new model discoveries (Dior, Givenchy) generated excitement, especially around inclusivity:
- Chioma: “The casting at Givenchy was quite… I thought was the most inclusive as far as size and age diversity.” (27:03)
7. Front Row Highlights and Fashion Week Culture
(28:45–30:24)
- Meghan Markle’s appearance at Balenciaga described as “the sort of front row appearance of the decade.”
- Other front-row luminaries: Anne Hathaway, Helen Mirren (who gave a reading), Naomi Watts, and Naomi’s daughter, an emerging model.
- Editors debate etiquette of photographing celebrity guests:
- Claire: “We were all like, should we—should we not film her?… You want to respect people’s… you know, they’re there for the show.” (28:58)
8. Logistical Challenges & Invitations
(31:08–33:33)
- Complaints (with humor) about traffic and travel between venues. Calls for better coordination.
- Show invitations especially creative this season:
- Nicole: “The Balenciaga invitation was really special: it was a old-fashioned cassette tape.” (33:20)
- Claire reveals the tape is Pierpaolo’s heartbeat, adding:
- “It’s definitely… not an anxious heartbeat, but… it wasn’t a meditative heartbeat.” (33:36)
9. Music, Accessories, Commercial Appeal
(34:11–38:33)
- Schiaparelli’s mix of Bowie, Lauryn Hill, Aaliyah considered best soundtrack; Dior, Givenchy, and Rick Owens also praised.
- Editors praise the strong focus on accessories—bags were more prominent and desirable than in recent seasons.
- Chloe: “Makes me optimistic that there is gonna be commercial success for a lot of these debuts because it felt like there were a lot of things to buy.” (38:03)
10. Upcoming Shows & Anticipated Trends
(38:33–41:16)
- Editors express keen interest in Alessandro Michele’s Valentino and Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier.
- Deliberation on approaches to house archives—embrace, reinterpret, or ignore?
- Claire: “I think there’s been this kind of overarching theme… of how the designers are gonna continue the elements that we love, but whilst creating their own thing.” (39:48)
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- Nicole Phelps [02:34]: “Even though the shapes were sort of couture-ish, they were sort of handled in an offhanded way… it didn’t feel serious to me.”
- Claire Thompson Johnville [11:39]: “There’s a real anchoring in kind of reality and like what women actually want to wear.”
- Chloe Malle [21:11]: “Designers who… are able to thread the needle between referencing the codes of the house but also really making it clear what their stamp is.”
- Chioma Nnadi [28:55]: “It might be the sort of front row appearance of the decade… It’s so insane to see Meghan Markle at the show.”
- Claire Thompson Johnville [33:36]: (On Balenciaga’s cassette invitation) “It’s definitely… like, not an anxious heartbeat, but it wasn’t… a meditative heartbeat.”
- Chloe Malle [38:03]: “I do feel like that makes me optimistic that there is gonna be commercial success for a lot of these debuts…”
Timestamps for Important Segments
- Balenciaga Show & Meghan Markle: 00:32–03:40
- Celine Runway & Scarves Trend: 05:24–09:53
- Parisian Fashion Mood & Wearability: 11:02–13:22
- Margiela & Alaïa Standouts: 13:24–16:18
- Marie Antoinette Trend & Fashion History: 16:39–18:55
- Debuts & Heritage Balancing Act: 21:11–26:35
- Front Row & Model Highlights: 28:45–30:24
- Traffic/Logistics & Invitations: 31:08–33:33
- Show Soundtracks & Accessories: 34:11–38:33
- Valentino & JPG Previews, Archive Approaches: 38:33–41:16
Tone & Style
The editors’ conversation is lively and witty, peppered with wry fashion-world observations, friendly ribbing, and a palpable sense of excitement about the evolving landscape of Paris Fashion Week. There’s deep respect for both tradition and modernity—plus a welcome candor about the industry’s quirks (traffic, etiquette, burnout).
Conclusion
This episode offers a sharp, insider’s perspective on a Paris Fashion Week marked by debuts, creative new directions, and optimism balanced with practicality. With sharp observations, backstage anecdotes, and a focus on fashion's interaction with both history and the present, the Vogue editors guide listeners through the week’s must-see moments, trends, and the shifting energy of the fashion world. Perfect for anyone eager to understand not only what happened on the runway, but why it mattered.
