Detailed Summary of "Vogue Editors Go Behind The Scene at NYFW" | The Run-Through with Vogue
Release Date: February 12, 2025

Introduction to New York Fashion Week

In this special bonus episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, Vogue editors Nicole Phelps and Chloe Mao take listeners behind the scenes of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Recording while traveling between shows in Manhattan, they provide an insider’s perspective on the week’s most memorable moments, standout runway presentations, and the overall atmosphere that defines this premier fashion event.

Arrival and First Impressions ([01:16] – [02:33])

Nicole and Chloe begin their journey in an Uber from Manhattan, transitioning from the Kalina Estrada show to the Christopher John Rogers (CJR) presentation. Nicole expresses excitement about NYFW's role in revitalizing connections among fashion professionals:
“New York Fashion Week has begun. New York Fashion Week ended yesterday and it's been so great seeing all of our friends and colleagues out and about. It always feels like a reunion and it naturally kicks off the wider fashion month.” ([01:16])

Christopher John Rogers' Standout Show ([02:33] – [04:29])

Christopher John Rogers returns to the runway after a two-year hiatus, marking his prominence as a headliner. Describing the show’s theme as “Willy Wonka film noir,” Nicole reflects on the sophisticated evolution of Rogers’ designs. The venue at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, despite initial reservations about its size and temperature, becomes a dramatic backdrop for Rogers' vibrant use of rainbow hues, taffeta, and stripes:
“It really felt like a big fashion moment.” ([03:05])

Notable Quote:
Nicole Phelps: “Christopher said it was Willy Wonka film noir, which is a lot to think about. I'm going to think about that all the way home and try to figure out what that means.” ([02:33])

Highlighting American Sportswear and Rogers' Impact ([04:13] – [05:12])

While much of the week focused on American sportswear with gray jackets and sweaters, Rogers' colorful designs provided a refreshing contrast. Nicole emphasizes Rogers' unique position in the NYFW scene:
“Because he really stands out, I think in New York. This week was, you know, a lot about American sportswear, but you could say it's a week of gray jackets and sweaters and stuff. And he is such a bright spot.” ([04:14])

Chloe adds personal anecdotes about intersecting their Vogue shoots with playful elements from other designers’ shows, enhancing the collaborative spirit of NYFW.

Calvin Klein's Prestigious Return and Debut Show ([05:12] – [07:10])

A major highlight was Calvin Klein’s highly anticipated return to the runway after two decades of absence. The debut was marked by a dramatic unwrapping of the invitation and a star-studded front row, including Greta Lee, Bad Bunny, FKA Twigs, Kate Moss, Chrissy Turlington, Calvin Klein himself, his ex-wife Kelly Klein, and Anna Wintour. Nicole reflects on the emotional significance of Calvin’s presence:
“They were quite emotional. It was like a reunion moment.” ([07:10])

Notable Quote:
Nicole Phelps: “Calvin Klein himself came with his ex wife. Kelly Klein and Anna Wintour were flanking him on either side. It was very sweet.” ([06:46])

Frances Howey's Debut at Form and Female Leadership ([07:10] – [08:14])

Frances Howey's introduction as the new creative force at Form marks a significant advancement for female leadership within the fashion industry. Nicole highlights the rarity and importance of having two new female designers debuting their shows, reinforcing the narrative of increasing female presence in creative director roles:
“It's a very rare moment when you have two new designers starting and the two new designers happen to be women.” ([07:10])

Additional Shows and Personal Experiences ([08:14] – [11:52])

Chloe shares her experiences from other noteworthy events, such as Bodie’s show in New Orleans and Edie Parker’s burlesque spectacular in Nomad featuring Countess Luann de Lesseps. These diverse showcases add depth to their NYFW coverage, illustrating the event's vibrant variety:
“I went to Edie Parker's burlesque spectacular in Nomad, which had Countess Luann de Lesseps performing and the boys were going wild for the Countess.” ([08:14])

Presentations vs. Shows: Spotlight on Emerging Designers ([17:56] – [19:01])

The conversation shifts to differentiate between presentations and traditional runway shows. Nicole explains that presentations often provide emerging designers with a platform to engage more personally with the audience:
“A presentation could be something that a young designer or emerging designer does who doesn't have the hundreds of thousands of dollars or the sponsorship money.” ([17:56])

Highlighting Henry Zankoff’s presentation, Nicole praises his exceptional knitwear and artisanal craftsmanship, noting his label Zankov's impact within the Vogue office:
“He is really an exceptional knitwear designer and very inventive and, you know, lots of color.” ([17:56])

Coach's Retro Revival and Sustainability ([19:15] – [20:44])

At the Park Avenue Armory, Coach presented a 90s-inspired collection infused with modern sustainability practices, featuring upcycled denim and suede appliqués. Nicole and Chloe appreciate the nostalgic yet contemporary aesthetic:
“Most of the jeans were actually made out of upcycled denim that he'd repurposed.” ([19:36])

Chloe adds enthusiasm about the show's ambiance and the musical performance that complemented the fashion display:
“It had a very moody, fun performance by a trio, Nation of Language.” ([19:15])

Upcoming Shows: Michael Kors and Thom Browne ([29:05] – [31:16])

Looking ahead, Nicole provides insights into the final shows of NYFW, featuring Michael Kors and Thom Browne. Both designers explore themes rooted in American sportswear, with Michael Kors emphasizing comfort and 90s nostalgia, while Thom Browne incorporates heritage tweeds and intricate embroideries:

“They both said to me that they find it strange that New York, like sportswear, was born in New York, but somehow America is always like sort of the second city, or New York is the second city to Paris in fashion.” ([29:13])

Notable Quote:
Nicole Phelps: “Thom Browne’s silhouette is very strong, with very big shoulders for both men and women, and super layered.” ([30:44])

Diatima Luar and Tory Burch's Final NYFW Shows ([23:07] – [28:49])

Rachel Scott’s Diatima Luar showcases a transition from her renowned crochet work to include sophisticated tailoring and draped evening dresses. The editors commend the elegance and versatility of her new pieces:
“She focused on tailoring and then also on some draped evening dresses. There’s a sort of languor to the draped evening pieces that was quite nice.” ([23:22])

Tory Burch’s El Pato show is praised for its romantic and moody set, featuring soft knits with unique details like rat motifs on tights and floral dresses adorned with whimsical elements:
“There was enough weird, like there were these very pretty draped dresses, a floral dress, and then these weird sort of rabbit's feet hanging off of them with sort of odd threaded loops.” ([28:49])

Notable Quote:
Nicole Phelps: “Rachel Scott... has become known very quickly for these incredible crochets that she has made in Jamaica by women in Jamaica.” ([23:22])

Final Thoughts and Future Events ([31:35] – [32:42])

As NYFW concludes, Nicole and Chloe reflect on the relative quietness of February’s events compared to the bustling September shows. They anticipate a surge of international designers in the upcoming months, particularly in Paris, and hint at major debuts from Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Heider Ackerman at Tom Ford:

“There will be exciting names from Europe on the schedule in September and it just feels a little bit part of, part of the cycle to me.” ([31:35])

Conclusion

Nicole Phelps and Chloe Mao wrap up the episode by acknowledging their production team and promoting related Vanity Fair podcasts. They emphasize the continuous excitement and dynamic nature of the fashion industry, encouraging listeners to stay tuned for future episodes that delve deeper into the cultural and creative evolutions within fashion.

This comprehensive summary captures the essence of the episode, highlighting key discussions, notable quotes with precise timestamps, and providing a structured overview that is both engaging and informative for listeners and non-listeners alike.