The Spy Who Dressed the Queen | The Man with the Missing Finger | Episode 1: Detailed Summary

Release Date: April 22, 2025 | Host: Indira Varma and Raza Jaffrey | Produced by Wondery

Introduction: Unveiling a Hidden Legacy

In the inaugural episode of "The Spy Who", titled "The Spy Who Dressed the Queen | The Man with the Missing Finger", Wondery delves deep into the clandestine world of Sir Hardy Amies, the renowned British fashion designer famed for dressing Queen Elizabeth II. Hosted by Indira Varma and Raza Jaffrey, this episode explores the lesser-known facet of Amies' life—his pivotal role as a wartime spymaster during World War II.

The BBC Interview: A Door to the Past [00:00 - 04:11]

The episode opens with a dramatized reenactment of a 2000 BBC interview. The distinguished yet discreet Sir Hardy Amies, at 91, is confronted by a BBC interviewer eager to uncover his contributions beyond fashion, specifically his involvement with the Special Operations Executive (SOE). Despite meticulous research revealing Amies' leadership in Operation Rat Week—a covert mission aimed at eliminating high-ranking Nazis and collaborators in occupied Belgium—Amies dismissively denies any such espionage activities.

Quote [03:45]:
"You must understand I do not dress the Queen. Her Majesty well knows her own taste, naturally unimpeachable." — Sir Hardy Amies

This initial denial sets the stage for unraveling the truth behind Amies' enigmatic past.

The Hidden Life of Hardy Amies: From Fashion to Espionage [05:33 - 27:16]

Narrated by Indira Varma, the story shifts to June 1940 in Savile Row, London, where a young Hardy Amies, then a 30-year-old couture designer, is approached by Fred Shingleton, the founder of his fashion house. Shingleton introduces Amies to an opportunity within the military police, leveraging Amies' fluency in French and German—a skill honed during his time in continental Europe.

Amies contemplates the proposition, aligning his patriotic sentiments against Nazi Germany with his professional talents, ultimately deciding to apply for military service.

Operation Rat Week: The Assassination Campaign in Belgium [Early to Mid-1940s]

Amies' recruitment into the SOE leads him to Beaulieu Abbey, a covert training facility in Hampshire. Under the guidance of Major Claude Knight, Amies undergoes intense training to instruct diverse recruits—from lawyers to poets—in the art of espionage, sabotage, and assassination.

Quote [15:50]:
"You have lived in France and Germany. You are fluent in both languages. You are clever and adaptable. People like and follow you." — George (Instructor)

Amies' role evolves as he mentors Andre Wendelin, a Belgian lawyer turned SOE agent. Wendelin's missions, however, are fraught with peril, marked by frequent disappearances and betrayals within the resistance networks.

Betrayal and Suspicion: The Mystery of the Missing Finger [27:16 - 46:50]

As losses mount, Amies becomes obsessed with identifying the mole sabotaging their operations. The investigation revolves around the elusive figure known as Prosper De Zita, a petty thief and Nazi informant identifiable by his missing pinkie finger.

Quote [32:10]:
"Send me back. I've delivered my report and wasted a year doing so. Send me back and I'll find the bastard." — Andre Wendelin

Wendelin's determination underscores the escalating tension within the SOE, as Amies grapples with feelings of guilt and responsibility for the agents' fates. The narrative crescendoes with Amies taking proactive measures, including undergoing parachute training, symbolizing his transition from a behind-the-scenes mentor to an active operative.

Cliffhanger: The Real Enemy Within

The episode culminates with a gripping recon of a failed mission and the lingering threat of a mole within the SOE. The fragmented reports and the singular clue of the missing finger hint at a deeper conspiracy, setting the stage for subsequent episodes to uncover the truth behind Operation Rat Week and Amies' ultimate sacrifice.

Behind the Scenes: Production Insights [46:50 - End]

Concluding the episode, the hosts provide a meta-narrative on the storytelling process, acknowledging the blend of historical research and dramatic recreation. Credits roll, highlighting the meticulous efforts of writers, researchers, and producers in bringing Sir Hardy Amies' hidden legacy to light.

Notable Quotes and Highlights

• Sir Hardy Amies on Discretion:
  "I do not dress the Queen... Her Majesty well knows her own taste." ([03:45])

• Instruction at Beaulieu Abbey:
  "This is something money cannot buy. It is, in fact, a gift that money often repels." — George ([16:30])

• Andre Wendelin's Resolve:
  "Send me back... I'll find the bastard." ([32:10])

Conclusion: A Journey into the Shadows

"The Spy Who Dressed the Queen | The Man with the Missing Finger | 1" masterfully intertwines the elegance of British haute couture with the grim realities of wartime espionage. Through rich storytelling and evocative quotes, Wondery unearths the extraordinary heroism and complex moral landscape navigated by Sir Hardy Amies. As the episode closes, listeners are left eager to delve deeper into the shadowy corridors of intelligence operations that shaped the course of history.

For those intrigued by this espionage saga, full seasons are available ad-free on Wondery+ via the Wondery App, Apple Podcasts, or Spotify.