Tried, true and clinically tested acne ingredients.

Summary

Podcast Summary: The Treatment Room

Episode: Tried, True and Clinically Tested Acne Ingredients
Host: Tessa (Licensed Esthetician, Double Certified Acne Expert, NASM Health & Nutrition Coach)
Date: June 26, 2026

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Episode Overview

Tessa explores the most reliable, research-backed skincare ingredients for acne—moving past the social media hype to highlight what truly delivers clearer skin. She discusses why popular and trendy ingredients often underdeliver compared to classics like retinoids, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, ceramides, and peptides. The episode also stresses the importance of routines, barrier support, and correct usage—especially for estheticians and dedicated skin-care lovers.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Why "Ingredient Chasing" Isn’t the Answer

Timestamp: 06:08

• Complexity of Acne: Acne is multifactorial like “a bucket” that overflows from a combination of factors—routine, environment, triggers, and not just ingredients.
• Tessa: "Great skin comes from having the right routine. Even the most clinically proven ingredient won't work if the overall system is off." (06:45)
• Barrier health, hydration, sunscreen, and consistency are just as crucial as actives or treatment serums.

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2. Hall-of-Fame Acne Ingredients: What Actually Works?

Timestamp: 10:05 – 36:28

Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives)

Timestamp: 10:05 – 12:43

• Gold Standard: Normalize skin cell turnover, prevent clogged pores, reduce comedonal and inflammatory acne, fade post-acne pigmentation, boost collagen.
• Caution on Usage: Not always the first step—Tessa waits until the barrier is stable:
  “Retinoids are a long term skin remodeling tool, not necessarily the first stop or a quick fix.” (12:36)
• Watch for purging and irritation—introduce them slowly.

Glycolic Acid (Alpha Hydroxy Acid from Sugar Cane)

Timestamp: 12:43 – 14:25

• Effective for exfoliation, fading dark marks, evening texture, and reducing congestion.
• Excellent for both active acne and lingering post-acne marks.
• Tessa: “Glycolic acid peels have been used for decades in clinics, esthetician treatment rooms and dermatology. Not because they're trendy, because it's truly tried and true.” (14:15)

Azelaic Acid

Timestamp: 14:25 – 18:09

• Well-tolerated, gentle option—best for mild to moderate acne and particularly for rosacea-prone or sensitive skin.
• Anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, minimizes redness and normalizes pore lining.
• Best for those new to actives or with redness-prone skin.

Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO)

Timestamp: 21:05 – 30:18

• Fast-acting bacteria fighter: Rapidly reduces C. acnes, inflammation, and prevents new lesions.
• Not for spot use only—should be used over the whole acne-prone area.
• Must be used with caution: excessive use causes irritation and barrier damage.
• Tessa’s advice on application:
  “Take a small amount, go section by section...like painting a wall in your room.” (25:39)
• “There is such a thin line between the right amount and over treating with benzoyl peroxide.” (27:15)

Personal Anecdote:

• Tessa initially thought she was allergic after developing dermatitis from overuse, but slow, measured use made it a game-changer for her skin.

Ceramides (Barrier Support)

Timestamp: 30:23 – 32:44

• Lipids essential to the barrier; reduce water loss, irritation, and increase skin resilience.
• Without a resilient barrier, all actives risk backfiring and worsening breakouts or sensitivity.
• Favorite: Glymed Plus Protective Skin Serum for compromised or post-procedure skin.

Peptides

Timestamp: 32:44 – 35:54

• Short amino acid chains that signal the skin for repair, collagen production, and improved resilience.
• Low irritation risk; support skin under active treatment regimens.
• Tessa highlights her new peptide-forward product and favorites for recovery and barrier strengthening.

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3. Building a Functional Routine: The Foundation of Results

• It’s not about the latest actives, but about consistency and routine structure.
• Hydration, moisturization, sun protection, and gradual escalation of actives are key.
• “The ingredient is the tool; the routine is the system.” (10:01)

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “Acne is multifactorial. It is like a bucket… so many factors that add to this bucket and contribute to the overflow that results in acne.” —Tessa (07:26)
• “You don’t want to just use benzoyl peroxide as a spot treatment…we want to be treating all of the follicles and preventing those lesions from ever getting blocked in the first place.” —Tessa (22:23)
• “You cannot effectively treat acne on a compromised barrier without addressing repair.” —Tessa (31:31)
• “Don’t chase ingredients; focus on building a very intentional system. The most effective acne routines are not built on the newest product of the moment.” —Tessa (35:54)
• “Healthy skin isn’t built through just the newest thing of the moment. In esthetics we call that Shiny Object Syndrome. It is built through structure, patience and evidence based choices repeated over and over again over time.” —Tessa (37:11)

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Essential Timestamps

• 06:08 – Why routines matter more than any single ingredient
• 10:05 – Deep dive: Retinoids
• 12:43 – Glycolic Acid's unique role and evidence
• 14:25 – Azelaic Acid for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin
• 21:05 – Benzoyl Peroxide: science, tips, and personal story
• 30:23 – Ceramides: building a resilient barrier
• 32:44 – Peptides for recovery and resilience
• 35:54 – 37:27 – Final advice: Consistency, barrier support, avoid “shiny object syndrome”

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Episode Takeaway

Don’t buy into social media hype or trending ingredient fads. Rely on a simple, well-researched group of ingredients—retinoids, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, ceramides, and peptides—layered into an intentional, barrier-supportive routine executed with patience and consistency. Results come not from the pursuit of novelty but from the discipline of a steady, supportive regimen.

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Find Tessa:
Instagram: @myestitessa | @freeskinbytessa
More acne resources: freeskinbytessa.com

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For clients, estheticians, and skincare lovers seeking real results—not quick fixes—this episode is a masterclass in proven acne management.

Transcript

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[Nick Robinson]

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[Tessa]

Hi guys. Welcome back to the Treatment Room Podcast. I'm so glad you're here.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

This is a podcast hosted by an esthetician and skincare lover for my fellow estheticians and skincare lovers out there.

[Tessa]

Before we get into today's episode, which

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

is going to be all about skincare ingredients, I am so excited to share that Eat to Clear is officially live.

[Tessa]

I apologize if I've been spamming you on Instagram with the recipe videos and you know, all the posts, but I'm just so, so excited.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

I can't can't even put it into

[Tessa]

words because this has been something I have been envisioning for the longest time.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

I didn't know if I could pull

[Tessa]

it off and it's something I've been

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

working on for the past year.

[Tessa]

Constantly going to the store, constantly experimenting with recipes, cooking them in my kitchen, photographing them, trying editing and finalizing the best of the best so that I could give you recipes that I feel are fun, delicious and easy to prepare. So this acne friendly recipe ebook is

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

designed to support clearer skin from the inside out with high protein, blood sugar, supportive meals, snacks, drinks. We've got coffee, we've got tea, we've

[Tessa]

got grocery lists and practical nutrition guidance

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

that takes the guesswork out of what to eat when you are trying to improve your acne.

[Tessa]

I have such a big vision of hopefully changing the way acne is treated with this ebook. I think for the longest time we

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

have overlooked and even dismissed the role that food plays in acne pathogenesis and I want more people to understand that

[Tessa]

nutrition is really such a integral part

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

of proper long term acne management.

[Tessa]

And I want people to also have

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

hope that they can play a role in improving their skin.

[Tessa]

Although, you know, this is a chronic,

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

cyclical, technically incurable disease of the skin, it can be put into remission.

[Tessa]

So I want people to have optimism and have a resource that they can use if they are struggling. And I really, really have seen over

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

the years of working with acne sufferers

[Tessa]

one on one, it's something that we can't overlook. And I think that just thinking acne is treated with medicine or prescriptions I think is short sighted. So I really hope to change the way in which we look at acne and treat acne with this guide. So you can grab it [e-mail] it's

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

also linked in the show notes below. And now let's get into today's episode. So we are talking about skincare ingredients

[Tessa]

today that actually have substantial research behind

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

them for acne prone skin.

[Tessa]

I was looking at my insights on all of my podcasts and my top

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

episode was about skincare ingredients.

[Tessa]

And I think this is a topic that more people want to understand and

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

more estheticians want more knowledge on because

[Tessa]

even through schooling the information we get

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

about ingredients can be limited.

[Tessa]

I know myself, I had to take outside classes and I highly recommend Concepts Institute for their ingredients course. But I wanted to add to the conversation today and share with you some

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

of the most effective ingredients for the treatment of acne.

[Tessa]

Not just the ones that are trending right now, not the ones that are

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

just sound the most exciting on social

[Tessa]

media, but the ones that consistently show up in dermatology offices, esthetician treatment rooms

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

and evidence based skincare routines because they actually move the needle.

[Tessa]

Skin care has gotten very loud. I think every week there is a

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

new must have ingredient.

[Tessa]

And because acne is such a complex

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

riddle to solve, when you hear of

[Tessa]

a new ingredient, it can feel like, oh, this is, you know, the answer.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

I have been looking for that new viral serum or celebrity line. It's a new reason to overhaul your entire routine.

[Tessa]

And meanwhile, some of the most effective acne ingredients that have been studied for

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

decades, that are still doing the heavy

[Tessa]

lifting are just quietly lurking in the background. Today we are breaking down what actually works, what the research says, and how

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

to stop wasting time chasing ingredients that

[Tessa]

don't matter as much as you might think or as much as social media has led you to believe. And even before we get into talking about specific ingredients, there's something I want to say. I think Most people think that great skin comes from finding the perfect ingredient. And I don't want to underplay the ingredients I'm about to talk about because they are significant and they are what I use to move the needle for my clients. But I would say overall great skin

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

comes from having the right routine. Even the most clinically proven ingredient won't work if the overall system is off. If you are constantly switching products, if there's something in your environment that is constantly triggering your skin, if you are

[Tessa]

using the wrong strength of active in the wrong way, or it's not right for your skin type, if you are damaging your barrier or just expecting one

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

serum or a product to do it all and, and compensate for everything else.

[Tessa]

The statement that I am constantly relaying to my clients is that we need

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

to understand acne is multifactorial. It is like a bucket.

[Tessa]

There are so many factors that add to this bucket and contribute to the

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

overflow that results in acne.

[Tessa]

When I say overflow, I'm really referring to the pore itself overflowing with sebum bacteria and dead skin cells. There are a lot of things to look at when it comes to acne and that's what I do as an acne specialist.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

I have such a thorough intake process

[Tessa]

for my clients and then we have a one hour discussion, really deep diving

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

into some of the most interesting, important

[Tessa]

aspects of your lifestyle that could be

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

contributing to this disease.

[Tessa]

So I see this constantly. People trying to quote unquote, optimize their skin care while they are changing products

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

every couple of weeks, they are not

[Tessa]

using the active products consistently enough at

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

a dose effective level.

[Tessa]

They, they might be doing way too much and just layering a lot of different actives.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

Maybe they are skipping moisturizer, neglecting their barrier over exfoliating or not using sunscreen consistently. So the problem usually isn't just the ingredient itself.

[Tessa]

It's the lack of overall structure and overlooking important triggers.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

So the basics will always matter. A, a gentle cleanser that doesn't strip the skin.

[Tessa]

B, a moisturizer and just overall routine

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

that supports the barrier.

[Tessa]

I shared in, I think my episode that was one or two episodes back about acne. I really focus on hydration at every

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

step of the routine.

[Tessa]

Yes, it was in my two week acne challenge I talked about how I am constantly emphasizing hydration, possibly a hydrating

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

toner, a serum, a hydrating mask, moisturizer and even a moisturizing sunscreen if you need it

[Tessa]

daily. Sunscreen so, so important to protect the barrier and reduce inflammation and consistency and

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

progression with the routine over time.

[Tessa]

Then, and only then, we layer in targeted ingredients.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

The ingredient is the tool, the routine is the system.

[Tessa]

Now let's talk about those tools that actually do matter for acne. We're going to start with retinoids, the gold standard for acne, aging and pigmentation. I will preface this with saying I don't always recommend starting with a retinoid as the first step of acne treatment, but if there was a skincare hall of fame, retinoids would be number one. Because when we talk about acne, we are talking about retention, hyperkeratosis or a

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

overproduction of skin cells.

[Tessa]

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that normalize

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

skin cell turnover and prevent dead skin cells from accumulating inside the pore.

[Tessa]

So this is really targeting the starting

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

point of most acne lesions.

[Tessa]

Clinically, retinoids are one of the most

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

extensively studied ingredients in skincare.

[Tessa]

Research shows that they can reduce comedonal acne and inflammatory acne, improve post acne

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

pigmentation, increase collagen production, improve skin texture over time and help prevent future breakouts.

[Tessa]

The reason I, I don't personally start with retinoids as the first step in

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

treating acne is because the main mechanism

[Tessa]

is that cell turnover aspect. So I find first I like to address the barrier health. I like to address bacteria and inflammation because retinoids can be associated with a purging effect which is not necessarily a bad thing. But I just find in my practice they are something that I prefer to bring in as sort of a second

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

phase of acne treatment.

[Tessa]

Retinoids are amazing, undoubtedly, but I think a lot of people find they are not working for their acne because they

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

aren't introduced at the exact right time. And I think as a user there can be some error associated with using a retinoid because people can use too

[Tessa]

much product, use them too aggressively, too quickly and irritate their skin before the

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

barrier has been properly cared for.

[Tessa]

So I would say retinoids are a

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

long term skin remodeling tool, not necessarily the first stop or a quick fix.

[Tessa]

Let's talk about glycolic acid because this is personally a tried and true one

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

of my favorite favorite ingredients in skin care.

[Tessa]

I feel it's overlooked and underrated, especially

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

as an acne ingredient.

[Tessa]

Glycolic acid is often categorized as an

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

anti aging, if you will, ingredient, but

[Tessa]

clinically it has very strong evidence and relevance for acne prone skin.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane and and it has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, allowing it to penetrate effectively into the skin.

[Tessa]

Research shows that glycolic acid can improve

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

acne lesions, reduce post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, increase exfoliation of dead skin cells, improve overall texture and tone, and support clearer, more even skin over time. Acne isn't just about active breakouts.

[Tessa]

It is also congestion, uneven texture, and what really bothers a majority of my

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

clients is the lingering marks they have from acne trauma.

[Tessa]

So glycolic acid can help address both

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

sides of the coin.

[Tessa]

And I love that it helps to

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

prevent buildup inside the pore while also

[Tessa]

improving the appearance of the skin in terms of pigmentation and just really giving it that nice glass skin effect that we all want.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

This is why glycolic acid peels have been used for decades in clinics, esthetician treatment rooms and dermatology.

[Tessa]

Not because they're trendy, because it's truly tried and true. Next we have azelaic acid. I think this can also be underrated for the right candidate. Azelaic acid is one of the most

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

unique and well tolerated acne ingredients that we have.

[Tessa]

Research does show that it can help with mild to moderate inflammatory acne. And I do want to emphasize that because I think it is so important to have the routine that is the

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

right strength for your skin and your acne.

[Tessa]

I think this is what people can struggle with the most. And this is where a professional can be so, so helpful. Because sometimes the consumer might be struggling with stubborn chronic acne and then they hear, oh, there's this gentle acid. And they might associate an ingredient being more gentle with better. And I would say that's not necessarily the case.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

It can be amazing for the right candidate.

[Tessa]

But what I want to emphasize is I think proper acne management should feel like a healthy push.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

This is what I'm constantly reiterating to clients.

[Tessa]

We want to take a step up

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

approach to exfoliation and using actives.

[Tessa]

So it's kind of like a Goldilocks situation where you don't want your active to be too gentle or too strong. It should be an ingredient that pushes the skin.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

Kind of like getting sore from a workout.

[Tessa]

You will likely have a period of

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

acclimation where you could have a little mild sensitivity. You might notice some shedding from skin cell turnover.

[Tessa]

You could even feel like the skin is a little bit tighter or have some redness. And I would say that these are normal and often positive side effects of

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

just normal acclimation to exfoliation.

[Tessa]

But the Key is just stepping up

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

the frequency at the right cadence for your skin.

[Tessa]

So again I'd say azelaic is best for mild to moderate acne. It can also help with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and especially rosacea related redness and inflammation. This is where I tend to use it and where I think it really shines. I really want pretty much all of my rosacea sufferers on azelaic acid. Clinical studies consistently show that azelaic acid

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

helps to improve rosacea symptoms including redness, visible bumps and overall inflammation.

[Tessa]

It also has antibacterial effects against acne causing bacteria and and can help normalize

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

keratinization in the pores.

[Tessa]

I would say if you have a very, very sensitive skin, maybe you've never

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

used actives before and your acne is on the mild side.

[Tessa]

Azelaic can be amazing and oftentimes because this acid is so gentle it can be tolerated far better than other acne actives and it could even be layered

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

into a routine of likely quite easily, including other forms of exfoliation, which is why derms and estheticians often recommend it

[Tessa]

for sensitive or reactive skin like a retinoid. And like glycolic acid, it is an

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

ingredient that can support acne redness and pigmentation, but it just tends to be a little bit more tolerated.

[Tessa]

I want to talk to my Estes real quick. Today's episode is in partnership with Pomp Beauty.

[Pomp Beauty Representative]

I am talking about this place platform constantly because it has genuinely changed my business. You guys know I am 100% virtual.

[Tessa]

I don't have a treatment room, I don't have retail shelves.

[Pomp Beauty Representative]

There's no client sitting in my chair physically and for a long time that meant I was leaving a lot of money on the table when it came to retail. Believe it or not, when I first started my virtual practice I would send clients links to to buy products where I was literally not receiving any benefit or commission.

[Tessa]

Like I was referring out to big box stores and soon enough I realized this is a big mistake. But I had nowhere to store the products.

[Pomp Beauty Representative]

I didn't want to open accounts with 50 different professional lines and sending clients to five different websites to buy their routine through your affiliate link. It is a tacky message and Pomp solve this right now. Pomp is my single biggest retail revenue stream. My clients are purchasing from me and loving the recommendations and supporting my small business every single day. If you want a stable future you have to think about income outside of

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

what your two hands can do in the treatment room. And this is where Pomp Comes in

[Pomp Beauty Representative]

Pomp is a monthly subscription platform built for estheticians that gives you access to 50 plus professional skincare brands. My faves like Face Reality, Marini Skin Solutions, Hydrinity, Color Science, Glymed Revision and so many more. With zero inventory, zero accounts that you need to open and commissions up to 40%, you build each client a personalized routine. They shop from your storefront anytime they want and Pomp handles the shipping and customer service service. But here's what I want you to hear. This isn't just for virtual estheticians like me. Whether you have a solo treatment room, a suite, a med spa, it doesn't matter. If there are products your clients could benefit from that you don't currently stock that they would otherwise google and buy from a random website, Pomp plugs directly into your business and captures that revenue for you. The most popular plan is just 49amonth and that includes educational webinars and sales training. But that literally pays for itself. If one client were to purchase through you on pomp, use code TEST50 to get a 14 day free trial, 50 off your first month and a 75 product credit. The link to join is in the Show Notes. Just type the treatment room in when it asks how you heard about pomp. And now let's get back to the the show.

[Tessa]

Benzoyl Peroxide this is the fast acting acne bacteria fighter. I am a big proponent of benzoyl peroxide. The key is really which benzoyl peroxide you are using and how you are using it. Benzoyl peroxide is one of the most proven if not the most effective and

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

well studied acne ingredients ingredient especially for inflammatory breakouts. BPO works primarily by reducing cutie bacterium acnes now called C Acnes, the bacteria that is involved in inflammatory acne and also helps to reduce inflammation within the follicle.

[Tessa]

I prefer to start with benzoyl peroxide for most of the acne sufferers that I see before before I start an

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

exfoliating acid or retinoid because it rapidly reduces acne causing bacteria, it helps decrease inflamed lesions, it helps to prevent new

[Tessa]

inflamed lesions and we love that you

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

can both treat the existing acne while

[Tessa]

also really highlighting that the key with

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

successful acne treatment is pretty prevention.

[Tessa]

You don't want to just use benzoyl

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

peroxide as a spot treatment, you want

[Tessa]

to eventually graduate to using it all

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

over the face because we know acne can take up to 90 days to form so we want to be Treating all of the follicles and preventing those lesions from ever getting blocked in the first place.

[Tessa]

BPO also does not contribute to antibiotic

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

resistance, unlike topical antibiotics when they are used alone.

[Tessa]

And one of the key advantages of benzoyl peroxide is speed. While retinoids are more of a long term remodeling agent, benzoyl peroxide is often

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

more immediate in reducing active inflamed breakouts.

[Tessa]

It's incredibly effective. The one downside being that it can be drying or irritating for some people, and especially at higher percentages or if you are using too much product.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

This is another reason why formulation and usage matter significantly.

[Tessa]

I have shared this on Instagram and I also go over this with all of my acne clients. There is a specific way to use benzoyl peroxide that I recommend to reduce

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

the likelihood of irritation.

[Tessa]

And irritation is just something we want to guard against, because when you push the barrier too far, you inevitably need

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

to stop using all of your Actives

[Tessa]

and take days off. And the great thing is that the

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

skin is very intelligent. It will restore itself.

[Tessa]

But that time frame it takes to heal, which could be one to maybe four or five days. Within that time frame, the skin is

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

producing millions of skin cells.

[Tessa]

So although a couple days might not

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

feel like a lot, when you are taking multiple days off of your Actives, we are giving the poor opportunity to congest.

[Tessa]

So I always emphasize it's best to

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

take a slow and gradual approach to increasing your benzoyl peroxide frequency, because it's better to start slow and build the barrier up rather than go too hard, too fast and need to take time off of your Actives.

[Tessa]

So listen up, this is the way I recommend applying benzoyl peroxide.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

You're going to take a small amount in your hand.

[Tessa]

People always ask, you know, how much should I use? Should I use a pea size? And what I have found is that, you know, all of our faces are different sizes and it might not seem

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

like a big deal, but that could be significant in terms of how much product is used.

[Tessa]

I have some clients with some very

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

small, petite faces and a pea size

[Tessa]

is way too much for them and leads to irritation. So it's best to, you know, take

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

a small amount, put in your hand, and then the key is going to be going section by section.

[Tessa]

I always explain this as almost like you're painting a wall in your room. You are going to go line by line and work your way either up or down. But using stripes across that section, you

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

can make sure you are treating Every single pore.

[Tessa]

And this way you will only go back to add more product from your,

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

your little amount you have in your hand. You're only going to add more as

[Tessa]

you run out of the lotion that is being applied.

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And the reason this matters is because

[Tessa]

when we just take an amount, we apply it all over our face. You might be overlapping areas and you might feel like you need to use

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

up what you have in your hand

[Tessa]

and that amount could be too much

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for the surface area on your face, if that makes sense at all.

[Tessa]

So I have found just being really

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careful and diligent, especially when you are first starting benzoyl peroxide, is the key to avoiding that irritation.

[Tessa]

I am not kidding. 10 times out of 10, when a client comes to me and says, hey, like I'm running into irritation, my face is stinging, I will ask, okay, how

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

are we applying the bpo?

[Tessa]

How much are we using?

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And this is where we'll usually find a little bit of user error, which

[Tessa]

is nobody's fault because nobody has ever explained, you know, this is a very potent active. And sometimes people do need reminders that we just need to be cautious because there is such a thin line between

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

the right amount and over treating with benzoyl peroxide.

[Tessa]

And just remember, you really only need a thin layer.

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You do not need to be applying this treatment like it is a moisturizer because it is certainly not.

[Tessa]

And more is not necessarily more.

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More can just create more irritation and

[Tessa]

that might mean less days consistently using

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the treatment in a row.

[Tessa]

I also wanted to mention here that there does tend to be an acclimation phase, especially for benzoyl peroxide. And I would recommend most people start, start with 5% or less or even start with a cleanser because that is going to be a less amount of contact time. I will link a product for each

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ingredient that I am speaking about in

[Tessa]

the show notes at a gentle starting percentage dose that I think could be well tolerated. Thing to understand is that a lot of people assume any type of acclimation equals an allergy.

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It is quite rare to be truly allergic to benzoyl peroxide, but it can certainly feel like it. If you are overusing the product, you

[Tessa]

can experience rashes, irritation, even swelling. So this is why I say just

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

being very conservative in your approach is the key.

[Tessa]

Funny story, the first time I used benzoyl peroxide it was recommended by an esthetician, a great esthetician who definitely knows

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

what they are doing. But when I first used the product,

[Tessa]

I had this, you know, really intense Response, redness, a rash. I literally got dermatitis. And it was because I was using too much product and probably just too at a frequency that was too much for my skin type, which tends to be more on the dry side. The funny thing now is that my skin is so conditioned to actives. I could really do almost anything to

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my skin and it will handle it

[Tessa]

like a pro at this point. But where I am now is very different from when I started.

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When my barrier was not yet supported, my skin had not been conditioned to active, so.

[Tessa]

So I literally thought, I'm allergic to this ingredient, I have to stop using it. And I'm so glad my esthetician at the time told me, you know, let's just give it a little bit more time.

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Let's try reducing the frequency, let's go slower with it and see if you

[Tessa]

are able to adjust. I was able to adjust and benzoyl peroxide was so key to getting my skin clear. So I just say that for anyone out there who might have had a

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

negative experience with it, it's all in the application.

[Tessa]

While it's not always the most tolerated off the bat, I think it can be so worthwhile and it is one

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of the most reliable treatments for acne.

[Tessa]

And you guys know I am all about barrier health. So let's talk a little bit about

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some, some key ingredients for barrier support

[Tessa]

because I think that is just as

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important as the exfoliating ingredients.

[Tessa]

So let's talk ceramides. They might not sound super exciting, but they are essential.

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They are lipids naturally found in the skin barrier that help hold skin cells together and maintain hydration. Research consistently shows that ceramides help to

[Tessa]

strengthen the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water

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loss, decrease irritation and sensitivity, and improve overall skin resilience.

[Tessa]

This matters because so many people are trying to treat their acne and just expecting it to handle a lot. And you can unintentionally damage your barrier

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

in the process with over cleansing, over

[Tessa]

exfoliating, over treating, then the skin just

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becomes more sensitive and reactive and pissed

[Tessa]

off every time you are trying to

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apply your acne treatment.

[Tessa]

So this is what I would emphasize. You cannot effectively treat acne on a

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compromised barrier without addressing repair.

[Tessa]

One of my favorite ceramide treatments that I have used since the early days of my esthetician journey that I'm still

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recommending in client treatment plans now for

[Tessa]

really compromised sensitive skin, maybe skin that

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is stinging or burning, is the Glymed plus protective Skin Serum. This is a professional grade barrier serum.

[Tessa]

It is Amazing. For post treatment, say you've been starting a new active or you've recently gotten

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

a peel or a laser. It is so helpful for a compromised barrier to build it back up.

[Tessa]

This treatment is built like a recovery

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

and lipid support formula, more so than just a typical moisturizer. I have loved using it in professional esthetic settings after exfoliation, peels or barrier disruption because it truly helps to calm and normalize the skin environment while restoring tolerance. So we can get back to a consistent schedule with your actives.

[Tessa]

Next are peptides. I would say this is a long term supportive skin ingredient. And peptides are short chains of amino acids.

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They act as signaling molecules in the skin. So you can think of them as tiny little messengers. And different peptides send different signals.

[Tessa]

But many are studied for their role

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in supporting collagen production, improving skin elasticity, aiding in wound repair processes and improving overall skin resilience over time.

[Tessa]

So they help the skin in a different way from exfoliants or retinoids. They communicate with the skin which is why they show up so often both

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in clinical skin care and esthetician protocols.

[Tessa]

They are usually low irritation risk, very supportive and stack well with stronger actives. You guys know I recently launched SafeGlaze, which is my acne friendly priming barrier treatment. This is a peptide forward barrier support

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

formula designed to support skin resilience, calm inflammation signaling, improve hydration retention, create a smoother base for both skincare and makeup

[Tessa]

without clogging the skin. Safeglaze contains signal peptides like acetyl hexapeptides,

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hydration humectants and barrier support lipids.

[Tessa]

I think one of the ways I am able to really push the skin with actives in a way that, you know, somebody probably couldn't at home. Home is because I hold such an emphasis on supporting the barrier and I

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

love incorporating ceramides and peptides in all

[Tessa]

of my acne protocols. It's not something I would just use for an age management type of client. Another little secret weapon I have is the Glymed plus peptide mask.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

This is used in the treatment room. It's a great recovery mask. I have found my skin loves using

[Tessa]

it even daily if I can apply

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

it in the morning or when I'm in the shower to protect my barrier. It focuses on peptide complexes for barrier signaling support, humectants like hyaluronic acid for hydration infusion, soothing agents to reduce visible inflammation, and barrier calming ingredients to reduce post procedure redness. In practice you can use it after exfoliation. You can use it after extractions or resurfacing treatments to help calm the skin and support recovery. You can also recommend it in your clients home care routines so they can use it whenever their skin is feeling tight, stingy or thirsty. So with peptides the key takeaway is

[Tessa]

they are not your aggressive acne fighters,

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but they are recovery and regulation tools that help the skin function better under stress.

[Tessa]

So if there is one takeaway from today's episode, let it be this. Don't chase ingredients, focus on building a very intentional system. The most effective acne routines are not

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

built on the newest product of the

[Tessa]

moment or or the most viral active.

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They are built on the boring things

[Tessa]

consistency, barrier support and a small number

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of well researched ingredients used correctly over time and customized in a routine for your skin.

[Tessa]

Retinoids, glycolic acid, Azelaic acid, Benzoyl peroxide, ceramides, peptides.

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

You've heard of all of these before, but these ingredients have seen stayed relevant

[Tessa]

for decades because they work, not because they're trendy or the Newest Shiny thing. I know it's so easy to feel like when the new thing comes out that is the missing thing that you need. But the reality is probably more likely that you will get the best results from having the right routine that you

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

are using consistently with a skin barrier that is actually able to tolerate them. Healthy skin isn't built through just the

[Tessa]

newest thing of the moment. In esthetics we call that Shiny Object Syndrome.

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It is built through structure, patience and evidence based choices repeated over and over again over time and that is what consistently clears skin long term.

[Tessa]

Thank you so much. If you have listened up to this point point. I hope you enjoyed it and if you did, please share it with someone who is stuck in the cycle of

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

chasing skincare fads who needs a reset.

[Tessa]

You can find me on social media,

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

my sd Tessa and at Free Skin by Tessa.

[Tessa]

I love you guys and I will

[Co-host (Skincare Expert)]

see you in the next episode.