Loading summary
A
Foreign.
B
Fishing village and market town. The now bustling megacity of Shanghai grew to prominence in the 19th century thanks to its favorable waterside location, enabling trade both domestically and internationally. You're listening to Tall Stories, a monocle production brought to you by the team behind the Urbanist. I'm Andrew Tuck. In this episode, Thomas Pineiro takes us around the cultural district of West Bund, where a recent exhibition in West Bund Museum explores how the millennia old settlement of Shanghai has grown into China's most populous urban area.
A
Architecture and urbanism under communist regimes are often framed through a narrow lens, brutalist top and ideologically uniform. But what happens when the system changes and drives the rise of modern megacities? The exhibition Building Architecture, Urbanism and culture since 1949 paints a more diverse picture. The show is curated by Xiang Ning Li, professor and assistant dean at Tongji University College of Architecture and Urban Planning, and is now on view at the city's westbound museum. Each of the nine sections of the show tracks Shanghai's evolution under the People's Republic of China through architectural models and drawings paired with archival material and artworks. I stopped by recently to see how the narrative plays out on the ground on an upper gallery of the museum. The show starts with a timeline that somewhat hurriedly glances at pre revolutionary Shanghai, a city once divided into international concessions. Blueprints and photographs showcase neoclassical and Art deco buildings, the kind you might just as easily find in Birmingham, Calcutta or Melbourne. But soon enough we arrive in the 50s. The first room sets the tone with models and images that reflect the new ideological order. These are monumental buildings ranging from sports complexes to university and cultural halls. Among them is the Sino Soviet Friendship Building, a massive Stalinist style structure with a central spire topped by a gleaming red star. Although it's not a high rise, the structure looks a lot like one of the Seven Sisters in Moscow. Today it goes by the name Shanghai Exhibition center and hosts everything from art fairs to car shows. Another project that captures the spirit of the time is the transformation of the Shanghai Racecourse, a former whites only club right in the heart of the city. Reclaimed by the new government, the terrain was divided into two public spaces symbolically named People's park and Peoples Square, the latter featuring a ceremonial avenue designed for parades. Moving forward, the second gallery explores how the city responded to its growing working class population. A series of finely detailed dioramas traces the evolution of housing. They go from adaptation of European style buildings to the rise of utilitarian housing blocks and eventually to homes built for the open market. One detail inside these miniature Homes captures the shifting mindset over the decades. The Portrait of Mao Zedong. This staple item is initially displayed like a household altar, but only to gradually shrink in size and prominence before disappearing altogether from most homes. Still, these dioramas feel too sterile, and they don't quite capture just how overcrowded things really were. China practiced communal living at full volume, with entire families packed into single rooms and kitchens and bathrooms pushed into into shared spaces. By the third room, we're ready. In the 80s, witnessing the move from a planned economy to a market one, new infrastructure projects like airports, shopping malls, international hotels and office towers emerge gradually giving the city a more globalized, outward facing identity. Archival footage on display captures the newfound dynamism. Office workers stride through marble lobbies, rooftop bars and clubs come alive at night, and foreigners once again blend into the crowds. The momentum builds in the Next Room, which turns to Luzhe, the district that has come to embody China's rise. Until the mid-90s, the area was a sprawl of warehouses, factories and farmland, but then the central government decided to reimagine it as a new financial center. Dramatic photographs depict the rise of structures like the Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Tower, the World Financial center, and finally the Shanghai Tower, all coming together to compose the futuristic skyline that now defines Shanghai. The Next rooms explore projects of the new millennium, when the national ambition was to place Shanghai among global capitals like New York, London and Tokyo. One room focuses on the 2010 Shanghai World Expo, featuring a large Artwork by Drawing Architecture Studio, a Beijing firm known for its bold, playful architecture drawings. Something like Archegram, but reimagined for today. Gallery 8 is about Shanghai's waterfront renaissance. It's a fitting chapter given that the exhibition itself is housed in a riverfront museum designed by David Chipperfield and positioned along an 8 kilometer cultural corridor on the margins of the Huangpu River. The area is known simply as the West Pond. Right next door to the museum is Tank, an art center and park built in and around five decommissioned aviation fuel tanks from a former airport. Not far off, the Long Museum occupies a former coal wharf, while the Power Station of Art, a state run contemporary art museum, lives in a repurposed power plant. The newest addition to the area is Gate M, a landscaped shopping and leisure hub that transforms towering Silas into colorful climbing walls. From the galleries of the westbound museum, we can see another landmark in the making. The fan like forms of the grand Shanghai Opera House are taking shape across the river. In a way, the last room in the exhibition circles back to the heritage of pre revolutionary Shanghai. The projects on display here suggest a more sustainable path forward. They favor smaller scale interventions and a more considered reuse of historic buildings and older neighborhoods. And that's where things get complicated again. The exhibition makes no mention of the substantial losses to the city's architectural heritage after decades of unchecked development. Until the 90s, much of Shanghai was made up of li longs, dense land based communities that blended Chinese and Western elements. Today only a fraction remains, with many still disappearing in plain sight. Building Shanghai succeeds in capturing the scale and pace of transformation under the prc, tracing how ideology, commerce and the drive for reinvention have shaped and continue to shape China's largest city. However, the show could have gained depth by including the pressures of urban transformation and acknowledging that, as in many of Asia's megacities, progress has come at a cost. Then again, given where the exhibition takes place, space for critique is understandably limited.
B
Tall Stories is a Monocle production from the team behind the Urbanist. This episode was written by Thomas Pinero and produced and edited by David Stevens. Be sure to subscribe to the podcast and subscribe to receive new episodes every week. I'm Andrew Tuck. Goodbye and thank you for listening. City Lovers.
Host: Andrew Tuck
Episode Date: July 14, 2025
Guest/Reporter: Thomas Pineiro
Main Theme:
An exploration of Shanghai’s dramatic urban transformation, as told through the lens of the “Building: Architecture, Urbanism and Culture Since 1949” exhibition at West Bund Museum, highlighting how architecture, ideology, and commerce have shaped China’s leading city from the 19th century to today.
This episode delves into the story of Shanghai’s cityscape, tracing its journey from a small fishing village to a dense global metropolis. The focus is on a current exhibition at West Bund Museum, curated by Xiang Ning Li of Tongji University, that chronicles the evolution of Shanghai’s architecture, urban planning, and identity since the founding of the People’s Republic of China. The episode weaves history, policy, and design into a compelling account of urban change—and loss—under the pressures of modernization.
“Blueprints and photographs showcase neoclassical and Art Deco buildings, the kind you might just as easily find in Birmingham, Calcutta or Melbourne.”
(Thomas Pineiro, 01:42)
1950s Transformation:
The exhibition showcases monumental Soviet-inspired buildings such as the Sino-Soviet Friendship Building (now the Shanghai Exhibition Center), capturing the architectural vision of the early PRC.
Societal Symbolism:
Public spaces like People’s Park and People’s Square emerged from appropriated colonial sites, reflecting new societal values.
Memorable Quote:
“A massive Stalinist style structure with a central spire topped by a gleaming red star... looks a lot like one of the Seven Sisters in Moscow.”
(Thomas Pineiro, 02:25)
Urban Housing Evolution:
Detailed dioramas depict the journey from adapted European houses to communal blocks, and finally to privately owned urban apartments.
Cultural Detail:
The diminishing prominence of Mao Zedong’s portrait in homes symbolizes shifting societal mindsets.
Critical Reflection:
The dioramas, while precise, don’t fully convey the reality of extreme overcrowding under communal living mandates.
Memorable Quote:
“China practiced communal living at full volume, with entire families packed into single rooms...”
(Thomas Pineiro, 03:33)
1980s–1990s Shift:
The rise of a market economy triggers a construction boom: airports, shopping malls, international hotels, and office towers begin defining a new, globally integrated identity for Shanghai.
Enhanced Mobility and Dynamism:
The city reopens to the world, with business, nightlife, and international communities returning in force.
Memorable Moment:
“Office workers stride through marble lobbies, rooftop bars and clubs come alive at night, and foreigners once again blend into the crowds.”
(Thomas Pineiro, 04:40)
World Expo Legacy:
The 2010 Shanghai World Expo, illustrated by bold artwork from Drawing Architecture Studio, underscores Shanghai’s aspirations to be ranked among global capitals.
The Waterfront Renaissance:
The West Bund becomes a hotbed of cultural innovation:
Cultural Layering:
All these demonstrate Shanghai’s ongoing commitment to blending heritage with modern reinvention.
Memorable Quote:
“The newest addition to the area is Gate M, a landscaped shopping and leisure hub that transforms towering Silas into colorful climbing walls.”
(Thomas Pineiro, 07:03)
Sustainable Reuse vs. Historical Erasure:
The exhibition tentatively revisits the city’s pre-revolutionary roots, suggesting more cautious and context-aware approaches for the future.
Omissions and Silences:
The episode acknowledges what’s left unsaid: the vast destruction of Shanghai’s unique “li long” communities and cityscape, swept away in the name of progress.
Notable Reflection:
“Progress has come at a cost. Then again, given where the exhibition takes place, space for critique is understandably limited.”
(Thomas Pineiro, 07:53)
On Architectural Eras:
“Architecture and urbanism under communist regimes are often framed through a narrow lens, brutalist top and ideologically uniform. But what happens when the system changes and drives the rise of modern megacities?” (A, 00:50)
On Changing Domestic Culture:
“The Portrait of Mao Zedong... gradually shrink[s] in size and prominence before disappearing altogether from most homes.” (Thomas Pineiro, 03:10)
On Urban Loss:
“Until the 90s, much of Shanghai was made up of li longs... Today only a fraction remains, with many still disappearing in plain sight.” (Thomas Pineiro, 07:44)
The episode combines narrative clarity with archival detail, balancing pride in Shanghai’s transformation with subtle critique of its costs. Pineiro’s on-the-ground reporting and measured observations, delivered in Monocle’s signature urbane tone, make for both an informative and evocative listen.
For listeners and city lovers, this episode offers a succinct yet visually rich guide to understanding Shanghai’s urban DNA—and the enduring tensions between growth, memory, and identity.