Podcast Summary: The Urbanist – Tall Stories 483: Abou Elie – Where Beirut's History, Politics and Nightlife Converge

Episode Date: November 3, 2025
Host: Andrew Tuck
Reporter: Noor Amelia Hilda

Episode Overview

This episode of "Tall Stories" by Monocle’s The Urbanist explores Abu Eli, a legendary Beirut pub that seamlessly fuses the city’s turbulent history, its political currents, and the vibrant nightlife scene. Through a richly narrated visit, the episode uncovers the stories, traditions, and eccentricities that have made Abu Eli a beloved enclave for generations of Beirutis.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Abou Elie: Setting the Scene

• Location & First Impressions:
  • Tucked away in the Yakubian Building—a 1960s modernist block in Hamra—the bar is easily missed from the street ([00:56]).
  • The pub offers a sharp departure from trendy rooftop bars and nightclubs, standing out "with as much character and soul as Abu Eli" (Noor Amelia Hilda, [00:56]).

Decor & Revolutionary Spirit

• Walls of History:
  • Inside, walls are plastered with iconic socialist memorabilia: portraits of Mandela, Lenin, Stalin, and a dominant mural of Che Guevara ([01:15]).
  • Socialist flags hang from the ceiling; a display of a rifle and bullets adds to the revolutionary ambiance ([01:35]).
  • The style is described as "unmistakably revolutionary in spirit" ([01:35]).
• Deeper Meaning:
  • Despite the "Communist themed" decor, the bar is authentic: founded by a former Lebanese Communist Party member, Nahya Shahood (Abu Eli) ([01:43]).

Abu Eli: The Man & His Legacy

• Origins:
  • Nahya Shahood, aka Abu Eli, was born in 1956, joined the Communist Party in 1970, and fought in the 1980s Lebanese civil war ([01:49]).
  • He opened Abu Eli for close friends and comrades, not as a public bar ([01:57]).
• Evolution:
  • By the 1990s, the bar’s reputation spread, drawing a "crowd of intellectuals, writers, artists, students and anyone with a soft spot for the left" ([02:22]).
  • The tiny bar seats fewer than 30 at a time, fostering an intimate, eclectic atmosphere.

Rules of the House & Traditions

• The 'Ten Commandments':
  • Abu Eli created self-penned house rules, still hanging by the entrance:
    • Forbid "nagging," "interfering with the music," and "any loud or ruckus behaviour" ([02:50]).
    • Ironically, "discussing politics is one of the house rules that is discouraged here" ([02:40]).
  • Noor Amelia Hilda:

    "While not strictly enforced, these rules serve more as a tribute to the late founder and as a mark of Abu Eli's eccentric character." ([03:07])

• Currency Wall:
  • Visitors decorate the bar with banknotes, scribbling messages like “Long live the Resistance” and “Until victory always” ([03:14]).
• Hospitality and Continuity:
  • Abu Eli’s widow, Im Eli, now runs the bar:
    • She greets guests with complimentary mezza: pickled lupin beans (thermos), lemon-glazed carrots, and seasonal fruits ([03:34]).

Atmosphere and Clientele

• Music & Mood:
  • Nights are filled with “soulful ballads of legendary Lebanese singer Fairuz and timeless Arabic classics,” with a nostalgic air ([03:44]).
  • Fusion jazz, especially Ziad Rahbani—“a former regular”—sets the mood for long conversations ([03:53]).
• Community & Belonging:
  • Despite the changing clientele, the core appeal remains:

    • “Regardless of politics, people come here seeking refuge from the outside world, a place where they can feel a sense of belonging.” (Noor Amelia Hilda, [04:38])

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Abu Eli’s Decor:
  • “Socialist flags cover the ceiling and a rifle with its bullets placed neatly next to it is proudly displayed next to the bar.”
    — Noor Amelia Hilda ([01:35])
• On the Bar’s Founder:
  • “Nahya Shahood, or more affectionately known as Abu Eli, was born in Beirut in 1956. He joined the Communist Party in 1970 and fought in the civil war in the 1980s. Around the same time he opened Abu Eli.”
    — Noor Amelia Hilda ([01:49])
• On Abu Eli’s House Rules:
  • “Ironically enough, discussing politics is one of the house rules that is discouraged here.”
    — Noor Amelia Hilda ([02:40])
• On Why People Gather:
  • “Regardless of politics, people come here seeking refuge from the outside world, a place where they can feel a sense of belonging.”
    — Noor Amelia Hilda ([04:38])

Timestamps for Key Segments

• [00:09] — Introduction to Abu Eli and its significance
• [00:56] — Description of the bar’s appearance and its revolutionary memorabilia
• [01:43] — Origins of Abu Eli and the founder’s political background
• [02:40] — The 'Ten Commandments' and bar rules
• [03:14] — Banknotes tradition and Im Eli’s hospitality
• [03:44] — The bar’s nostalgic music and artistic clientele
• [04:38] — The bar’s enduring appeal and sense of community

Conclusion

This episode paints Abu Eli not simply as a bar, but as a living symbol of Beirut's layered history, offering a unique crossroads for community, memory, and sanctuary—where revolutionary nostalgia and contemporary city life mingle in candlelit intimacy. It’s a must-listen for anyone curious about how places can encapsulate the politics, turmoil, and everyday joys of urban life.