Summary4 min read

Podcast Summary: The Urbanist – Tall Stories 483: Abou Elie – Where Beirut's History, Politics and Nightlife Converge

Episode Date: November 3, 2025
Host: Andrew Tuck
Reporter: Noor Amelia Hilda

Episode Overview

This episode of "Tall Stories" by Monocle’s The Urbanist explores Abu Eli, a legendary Beirut pub that seamlessly fuses the city’s turbulent history, its political currents, and the vibrant nightlife scene. Through a richly narrated visit, the episode uncovers the stories, traditions, and eccentricities that have made Abu Eli a beloved enclave for generations of Beirutis.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Abou Elie: Setting the Scene

Location & First Impressions:
- Tucked away in the Yakubian Building—a 1960s modernist block in Hamra—the bar is easily missed from the street ([00:56]).
- The pub offers a sharp departure from trendy rooftop bars and nightclubs, standing out "with as much character and soul as Abu Eli" (Noor Amelia Hilda, [00:56]).

Decor & Revolutionary Spirit

Walls of History:
- Inside, walls are plastered with iconic socialist memorabilia: portraits of Mandela, Lenin, Stalin, and a dominant mural of Che Guevara ([01:15]).
- Socialist flags hang from the ceiling; a display of a rifle and bullets adds to the revolutionary ambiance ([01:35]).
- The style is described as "unmistakably revolutionary in spirit" ([01:35]).
Deeper Meaning:
- Despite the "Communist themed" decor, the bar is authentic: founded by a former Lebanese Communist Party member, Nahya Shahood (Abu Eli) ([01:43]).

Abu Eli: The Man & His Legacy

Origins:
- Nahya Shahood, aka Abu Eli, was born in 1956, joined the Communist Party in 1970, and fought in the 1980s Lebanese civil war ([01:49]).
- He opened Abu Eli for close friends and comrades, not as a public bar ([01:57]).
Evolution:
- By the 1990s, the bar’s reputation spread, drawing a "crowd of intellectuals, writers, artists, students and anyone with a soft spot for the left" ([02:22]).
- The tiny bar seats fewer than 30 at a time, fostering an intimate, eclectic atmosphere.

Rules of the House & Traditions

The 'Ten Commandments':
- Abu Eli created self-penned house rules, still hanging by the entrance:
  - Forbid "nagging," "interfering with the music," and "any loud or ruckus behaviour" ([02:50]).
  - Ironically, "discussing politics is one of the house rules that is discouraged here" ([02:40]).
- Noor Amelia Hilda:
  
  "While not strictly enforced, these rules serve more as a tribute to the late founder and as a mark of Abu Eli's eccentric character." ([03:07])
Currency Wall:
- Visitors decorate the bar with banknotes, scribbling messages like “Long live the Resistance” and “Until victory always” ([03:14]).
Hospitality and Continuity:
- Abu Eli’s widow, Im Eli, now runs the bar:
  - She greets guests with complimentary mezza: pickled lupin beans (thermos), lemon-glazed carrots, and seasonal fruits ([03:34]).

Atmosphere and Clientele

Music & Mood:
- Nights are filled with “soulful ballads of legendary Lebanese singer Fairuz and timeless Arabic classics,” with a nostalgic air ([03:44]).
- Fusion jazz, especially Ziad Rahbani—“a former regular”—sets the mood for long conversations ([03:53]).
Community & Belonging:
- Despite the changing clientele, the core appeal remains:
  - “Regardless of politics, people come here seeking refuge from the outside world, a place where they can feel a sense of belonging.” (Noor Amelia Hilda, [04:38])

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

On Abu Eli’s Decor:
- “Socialist flags cover the ceiling and a rifle with its bullets placed neatly next to it is proudly displayed next to the bar.”
  — Noor Amelia Hilda ([01:35])
On the Bar’s Founder:
- “Nahya Shahood, or more affectionately known as Abu Eli, was born in Beirut in 1956. He joined the Communist Party in 1970 and fought in the civil war in the 1980s. Around the same time he opened Abu Eli.”
  — Noor Amelia Hilda ([01:49])
On Abu Eli’s House Rules:
- “Ironically enough, discussing politics is one of the house rules that is discouraged here.”
  — Noor Amelia Hilda ([02:40])
On Why People Gather:
- “Regardless of politics, people come here seeking refuge from the outside world, a place where they can feel a sense of belonging.”
  — Noor Amelia Hilda ([04:38])

Timestamps for Key Segments

[00:09] — Introduction to Abu Eli and its significance
[00:56] — Description of the bar’s appearance and its revolutionary memorabilia
[01:43] — Origins of Abu Eli and the founder’s political background
[02:40] — The 'Ten Commandments' and bar rules
[03:14] — Banknotes tradition and Im Eli’s hospitality
[03:44] — The bar’s nostalgic music and artistic clientele
[04:38] — The bar’s enduring appeal and sense of community

Conclusion

This episode paints Abu Eli not simply as a bar, but as a living symbol of Beirut's layered history, offering a unique crossroads for community, memory, and sanctuary—where revolutionary nostalgia and contemporary city life mingle in candlelit intimacy. It’s a must-listen for anyone curious about how places can encapsulate the politics, turmoil, and everyday joys of urban life.

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Transcript3 lines

[00:10]
A
If you find yourself on the right street in the right district of Beirut, you may be lucky enough to stumble upon one of the city's most beloved and storied institutions. It's a pub founded by a former member of the Lebanese Communist Party who fought in the Lebanese civil war, and its clientele today includes younger Beirutis looking for homemade arak and a playlist of golden era Arab classics. You're listening to Tall Stories, a Monocle production brought to you by the team behind the Urbanist. I'm Andrew Tuck. In this episode, Noor Amelia Hilda takes us to the place where Beirut's history, politics and nightlife all convergence.
[00:56]
B
There is no shortage of places to grab a drink on a night out in Beirut. While trendy rooftop bars and pulsing nightclubs dominate the city's nightlife scene, few establishments stand out with as much character and soul as Abu Eli. Tucked away in the ground floor of the Yakubian Building, a 1960s modernist residential block in the city's Hamra district, the entrance to this unassuming bar is easy to miss. But once you step through the sliding door, you'll be greeted by a wall of revolutionary figures. Portraits of Mandela, Lenin and even Stalin are plastered on the walls that are so densely layered with memorabilia you can barely see the original paint. Among them, the Argentinian born Cuban revolutionary leader Ernesto Che Guevara is a clear favorite, taking up the majority of the wall space. The decor here is unmistakably revolutionary in spirit. Socialist flags cover the ceiling and a rifle with its bullets placed neatly next to it is proudly displayed next to the bar. While Abu Eli is commonly referred to as a Communist themed bar, this place is far from being gimmicky. It was actually originally founded by a former member of the Lebanese Communist Party. Its founder, Nahya Shahood, or more affectionately known as Abu Eli, was born in Beirut in 1956. He joined the Communist Party in 1970 and fought in the civil war in the 1980s. Around the same time he opened Abu Eli. Originally intended as a gathering place for a close knit group of friends and fellow comrades, it was only from the 90s onwards that word had gotten out about this hole in the wall bar. For a small space that fits fewer than 30 people at a time, it draws an eclectic crowd of intellectuals, writers, artists, students and anyone with a soft spot for the left to gather over a few glasses of beer or arak, the traditional Lebanese spirit. Ironically enough, discussing politics is one of the house rules that is discouraged here. It is part of the original self penned Ten Commandments set by Abu Ali in the early days of the ba. This set of commandments still hangs today near the entrance and includes rules such as no nagging, no interfering with the music and forbidding any loud or ruckus behaviour. While not strictly enforced, these rules serve more as a tribute to the late founder and as a mark of Abu Ali's eccentric character. There's also the tradition of sticking banknotes on the walls, where visitors from all over would leave scribbled messages such as Long live the Resistance and Until victory always on their local currency. Today the bar is run by Abu Eli's widow, Im Eli, who still warmly greets guests with generous plates of complimentary mezza such as thermos or pickled lupin beans, lemong glazed carrots and seasonal fruits. As for the soundtrack, the music played here is suitably nostalgic. Soulful ballads of legendary Lebanese singer Firus fill the space throughout the night alongside timeless Arabic classics from Sheikh Imam to the fusion jazz of Lebanese composer Ziad Rahbani, who was a former regular. The crowd may have changed since Abu Ali welcomed guests from behind the bar, but today the younger generation is drawn by the same pull that has kept this place alive all these years. Regardless of politics, people come here seeking refuge from the outside world, a place where they can feel a sense of belonging. Foreign.
[04:58]
A
Stories is Monocle production from the team behind the Urbanist. This episode was written by Nor Amelia Hilder and produced and edited by David Stevens. Be sure to subscribe to the podcast to receive new episodes every week. I'm Andrew Tuck. Goodbye and thank you for listening. City Lovers.