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- [00:10]
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Trains pass by Japan's iconic Mount Fuji every day, offering commuters and tourists alike stunning views of the landmark. But now a new dedicated tourist train has launched that takes in this breathtaking route in all its glory. You're listening to Tall Stories, a monocle production brought to you by the team behind the Urbanist. I'm Andrew Tuck. In this episode, Julia Kim takes us on a train ride in Japan to see the country's most revered landmark.
- [00:47]
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There's a reason why Mount Fuji is venerated by the Japanese. From its conical base to its flat, snow capped peak, its lines are so harmonious it almost evokes the divine. Veneration also implies a good dose of fear, though, and Fujisan, as it's called here, certainly inspires that too. As well as being the country's highest mountain, it is also its most active volcano. But today, the real fear visitors like myself have is not seeing it at all. I'm at Mishima train station, southwest of Tokyo. It's mid morning on a Thursday, but Fujisan, as the Japanese call it, is swaddled in haze and intent on living up to its reputation as a bashful peak. The train I'm about to board is delightfully retro, a three car locomotive that looks more like a longer, leaner trolley tram. It's called the Hokusai Special Train, named after the renowned Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. His famous woodblock print series. The 36 views of Mount Fuji are pasted on the walls and hang from the ceiling of the train. Among these landscapes is the ubiquitous Great Wave, which graces every 1,000 yen banknote in Japan. On a clear day, you can get a clean shot of some of the same vistas captured by Hokusai himself nearly two centuries ago. But the opaque clouds are thickening by the second, and as we pull out of the station, the first droplets of rain appear on the panoramic windows. I peer desperately outside, wondering how many others have come before me. How many generations of Gorkas, including Hokusai, squinted through the mist for a glimpse of Mount Fuji. Not only is it Japan's foremost natural attraction, it's an object of worship, a muse that's captivated artists as far as Europe and triggered the Japonisme aesthetic in the 1800s. In 2013, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Learning all of this during the ride only wets my appetite to see it. But the intensifying drizzle dampens all hope. On a day like today, you make do with a pop quiz delivered by the tour guide in English. It's an informative and not unwelcome distraction as I soak up these nuggets about the great artist the train is soaked by rain, stubborn fog blankets us, and for the entire journey the 36 views of Mount Fuji are reduced to 50 shades of grey. Those in the know say the odds are 1 in 3 that Fuji San makes an appearance, which might explain why the train only runs three days a week. Sunrise Tours, which operates the service in conjunction with Central Japan Railways, has been making the gamble since this spring, betting on the great wave of inbound tourists. When we stop at our destination, Fujinomiya. I commiserate with the other tour goers, but we agree that we will probably roll the dice again for the chance to gaze upon the serene grandeur of Japan's sacred mountain.
- [04:28]
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Tall Stories is a Monocle production from the team behind the Urbanist. This episode was written by Julia Kim and produced and edited by David Stevens. Be sure to subscribe to the podcast to receive new episodes every week. I'm Andrew Tuck. Goodbye and thank you for listening. City Lovers.