The Who What Wear Podcast: In-Depth with Emilia Wickstead on Modern Femininity, Bespoke Bridal, and Cinematic World-Building Through Clothes

Release Date: June 11, 2025

Introduction to Emilia Wickstead

In this compelling episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, senior fashion editor Anna Laplaca engages in an insightful conversation with the esteemed fashion designer Emilia Wickstead. Emilia, originally from New Zealand, established her eponymous label in London in 2008, quickly becoming a paragon of modern femininity in the fashion world. The discussion delves into Emilia's formative years, her unique design philosophy, and the elements that make her creations instantly recognizable.

Early Upbringing and Formation of a Fashion Identity

Emilia begins by reflecting on her upbringing in Auckland, New Zealand, where her mother, a pattern maker and designer, played a pivotal role in shaping her early relationship with fashion.

Emilia Wickstead [01:58]:
"Every day after school, I would go to her studio or to her store and watch her fitting... That was my first introduction, really, to seeing women in matching jackets and trousers and dresses for occasion."

Growing up in a predominantly casual country, Emilia was immersed in a world of elegance and sophistication through her mother's fashion shows in the 90s. This early exposure instilled in her a deep appreciation for women's attire and laid the foundation for her design aesthetic, which masterfully balances elegance with simplicity, infused with whimsy and playfulness.

Transition from New Zealand to Milan: A Paradigm Shift

At the age of 14, Emilia moved to Milan with her mother, marking a significant shift in her exposure to the fashion industry. Milan, being a global fashion hub, contrasted sharply with her New Zealand upbringing and profoundly influenced her professional aspirations.

Emilia Wickstead [05:39]:
"Milan was the hub of fashion. Milan Fashion Week was the fashion week, or at least it felt so. Everyone was dressed up. Every day was an occasion."

This relocation ignited her fascination with high fashion, leading her to explore designer stores, study garment quality, and immerse herself in the intricacies of fashion design from a young age. Emilia's passion for fashion deepened during her time in Milan, setting the stage for her future endeavors.

Education and Early Career: Building a Strong Foundation

Emilia pursued her passion by studying fashion at Central Saint Martins in London, one of the world's premier fashion schools. Post-graduation, she garnered experience by working with industry giants such as Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler, and Narciso Rodriguez, as well as interning at American Vogue. Despite her prestigious internships, Emilia found her most valuable lessons in retail.

Emilia Wickstead [07:44]:
"That was honestly one of the best educations of my life... I grew into big design house brands and got to work in retail and those brands and understanding absolutely what women wanted."

Her hands-on experience in retail taught her the importance of customer interaction, confidence-building, and the delicate balance between designing exquisite garments and catering to consumer desires. These insights were instrumental when she decided to launch her own brand.

Choosing London: A Perfect Fit for Her Brand

Despite her global experiences in Milan, Auckland, and New York, Emilia chose London as the base for her brand. London’s dynamic and inclusive fashion scene offered her the freedom to experiment and express her unique vision without conforming to a singular cultural expectation.

Emilia Wickstead [09:57]:
"I remember feeling absolutely connected to the city. I suddenly feel like I can absolutely be myself and I could be free, I could be experimental."

London's rich heritage coupled with its forward-thinking culture provided the ideal environment for Emilia to grow her brand organically, tapping into diverse markets and fostering a sense of community that continues to support her endeavors.

Creative Process: Drawing Inspiration from Cinematic Worlds

Emilia’s creative process is deeply intertwined with her love for film and other art forms. She emphasizes the importance of a muse, color palettes, and fabrics in crafting her collections.

Emilia Wickstead [11:34]:
"I'm a total film buff, so I love films. That really gets my creative senses moving. The muse can be, for example, we use Hitchcock quite a lot..."

Her approach often involves immersing herself in the life and artistry of her muses, whether they are iconic actresses, costume designers, or photographers. This method allows her to create collections that are not just garments but complete cinematic narratives.

Emilia Wickstead [12:18]:
"I always say that a good collection is when I become obsessed with the muse. And if I don't, then it's perhaps not one of my strongest collections."

This obsession with her inspirations ensures that each collection embodies a cohesive world, encouraging her customers to not just wear the clothes but to inhabit the stories they tell.

Defining Brand Identity: Elegance Meets Modernity

Emilia reflects on how her brand's signature elements—refined tailoring, whimsical prints, and considered femininity—were honed over nearly two decades of passionate design and learning from her clientele.

Emilia Wickstead [13:51]:
"I've always wanted this brand to be a brand that we are investment pieces... that we're always standing for a refined, empowered woman who dresses with intent and joy."

Her commitment to creating timeless pieces that empower women is evident in her meticulous attention to detail and the emotional resonance her designs evoke.

Notable Achievements and Clientele

Emilia expresses immense pride in dressing a diverse array of women, from unknown clients to high-profile celebrities. She highlights the significance of seeing multiple women adorned in her creations at events, underscoring the widespread appeal of her designs.

Emilia Wickstead [15:28]:
"I walked into an event and there were at least 10 women dressed in Amelia Wicks that I didn't know. And that feels like the biggest accomplishment of all."

Among her distinguished clients are Emma Stone, Malala Yousafzai, Angelina Jolie, Sabrina Carpenter, and Serena Williams, each embodying the strength and elegance her brand represents.

Future Directions: Embracing Moody Cinematic Themes

Emilia discusses her recent collections inspired by darker, moodier cinematic works like Hitchcock's The Birds and David Lynch's Twin Peaks. These inspirations reflect a deeper exploration of emotional complexities and narrative depth in her designs.

Emilia Wickstead [17:51]:
"I get carried away with Rossellini's avant-garde restraint and all these different parallels within the film. You find ways to almost put that into a collection in a directive way as well."

Her upcoming pre-fall collection, inspired by Roberto Rossellini's Journey to Italy, encapsulates themes of love, passion, and emotional turmoil, showcasing her ability to translate intricate narratives into wearable art.

Bespoke Bridal: Crafting Timeless Narratives

Emilia delves into her bespoke bridal business, highlighting the deeply personal and emotionally charged process of designing wedding dresses. Her approach emphasizes timelessness, architectural lines, and storytelling through custom details.

Emilia Wickstead [21:53]:
"They're looking for something that will honestly just stand the Test of time... storytelling to all of our bespoke dresses."

Notable bespoke creations include Charlotte Santo Domingo's custom gown, which incorporated Spanish influences, and other dresses that blend traditional elegance with modern flair.

Innovative Collaborations and Future Projects

Emilia shares exciting news about her collaboration with Paperless Post, where she extends her design aesthetic to stationery, creating immersive invitation designs that echo her fashion collections.

Emilia Wickstead [25:06]:
"These invites for Paperless Post, they're love letters to celebration... another Emilia Wickstead world moment, but on a slightly different canvas."

Additionally, she anticipates her collaboration with Palm Heights in the Cayman Islands, designing a capsule collection that blends masculine oversized pieces with vibrant colors, further showcasing her versatility.

Empowering Women in Fashion Leadership

Emilia emphasizes the importance of a female-centric team in shaping her brand, fostering empathy, and ensuring that every design decision is rooted in the lived experiences of women.

Emilia Wickstead [26:57]:
"Designing for women by women means that our decisions are rooted in lived experience... it makes the brand feel truly personal and empowered."

Her commitment to a predominantly female workforce underscores her dedication to creating a brand that authentically serves and represents women.

Inspiring the Next Generation of Designers

Emilia concludes by expressing admiration for emerging British designers showcased during London Fashion Week. She celebrates their experimental approaches and the vibrant, renewing energy they bring to the British fashion industry.

Emilia Wickstead [27:53]:
"I'm always inspired by the young British designers... it's a constant renewal in the British fashion industry."

Her support for burgeoning talent highlights her role not just as a designer but as a mentor and advocate for innovation within the fashion community.

Conclusion

This episode of The Who What Wear Podcast offers a comprehensive look into Emilia Wickstead's journey, her design philosophy, and her unwavering dedication to empowering women through fashion. From her early days in Auckland to establishing a global brand in London, Emilia's story is one of passion, resilience, and creativity. Her ability to weave cinematic narratives into her collections and her commitment to timeless yet modern designs make her a standout figure in the fashion industry.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

• Emilia Wickstead [01:58]:
  "Every day after school, I would go to her studio or to her store and watch her fitting..."

• Emilia Wickstead [05:39]:
  "Milan was the hub of fashion... Every day was an occasion."

• Emilia Wickstead [07:44]:
  "That was honestly one of the best educations of my life..."

• Emilia Wickstead [09:57]:
  "I suddenly feel like I can absolutely be myself and I could be free, I could be experimental."

• Emilia Wickstead [11:34]:
  "I'm a total film buff, so I love films. That really gets my creative senses moving."

• Emilia Wickstead [12:18]:
  "I always say that a good collection is when I become obsessed with the muse."

• Emilia Wickstead [13:51]:
  "I've always wanted this brand to be a brand that we are investment pieces..."

• Emilia Wickstead [15:28]:
  "There were at least 10 women dressed in Amelia Wicks that I didn't know."

• Emilia Wickstead [17:51]:
  "I get carried away with Rossellini's avant-garde restraint..."

• Emilia Wickstead [21:53]:
  "They're looking for something that will honestly just stand the Test of time."

• Emilia Wickstead [25:06]:
  "These invites for Paperless Post, they're love letters to celebration."

• Emilia Wickstead [26:57]:
  "Designing for women by women means that our decisions are rooted in lived experience."

• Emilia Wickstead [27:53]:
  "I'm always inspired by the young British designers..."

Emilia Wickstead's narrative is a testament to the power of passion and authenticity in the fashion industry. Her ability to merge personal experiences with artistic inspirations continues to resonate with women globally, making her collections not just fashion statements but embodiments of empowered femininity.