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Lauren Egertson
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Kristen Nichols
Welcome to the who what Wear? Podcast, your direct line to the designers, stylists, beauty experts, editors and tastemakers who are shaping the ever evolving world of fashion. I'm who what Wears Editorial Director Lauren Egertson, and today I'm joined by Associate Director of Special Projects Kristen Nichols to debrief on the whirlwind month of fashion we've just had. Between the two of us, we were lucky enough to attend New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Week. And now that we're back, we're sitting down to finally catch up on pretty much everything. We're covering the biggest stories and the buzziest collection from each city, our favorite pieces, and what we're expecting to see pop up on the red carpet in the coming months. Plus, we discuss the larger energy of each fashion week and check in on the trend predictions we made during our New York Fashion Week episode to see if they panned out. It's all coming up on who. Well, where. Hi Kristen, I am so excited to chat with you about our post Fashion Month experiences. I feel like we are both all over the place.
Lauren Egertson
I know. Hi Lauren, back from Paris and Milan. I'm so excited to hear all about what you saw there.
Kristen Nichols
Yes, I attended Milan in Paris. I know you attended London and New York. So between the two of us, we literally saw it all. But I'm so excited to hear about the weeks that I wasn't able to attend. Also, to our audience, if you are not caught up on all of our Fashion Month coverage, we have covered it across the board from every trend roundup from every major city, all of the big shows that you'd want to know about. We've done our Runway reviews, which Kristen on our team leads, and she does such an amazing job planning and mapping all of those out. So we had our New York Fashion Week podcast episode together, which was really fun. I feel like I got the real time download on everything that happened that week. But can you remind me some of the things that we talked about and your predictions, and if you feel like they kind of held up for the rest of the month?
Lauren Egertson
Yes. New York Fashion Week feels like so long ago, but what we were seeing at the beginning of Fashion Month in New York were these more intimate collections. Calmire comes to mind. It was a really small and intimate show and brought together a lot of people that are close to the brand, and there were other designers that did this as well. And I think we saw this just kind of continue throughout Fashion Month happening in a few ways. I think a lot of big designers scaled back on their shows. I know Louis Vuitton was a lot smaller this season, and then a lot of designers also style stuck to more intimate guest lists for their debut collections, whether that was Sarah Burton at Givenchy or Heather Ackerman at Tom Ford and Julian Klausner at Juice Van Noten. So, yeah, I think just like, that sense of intimacy was really present. I feel like nostalgia was another element that was definitely a running theme for Fashion Month. It was very clear to me, especially at brands like Givenchy, where Sarah Burton literally turns to the archives and referenced the 1952 debut collection of Hubert de Givenchy. And so there were a lot of, you know, obviously, like, modern takes, but it really felt like it dug into the archives and championed some of those beautiful silhouettes from the 50s. Miu Miu also had a lot of 50s references on the Runway. There were these skirt sets, furry stoles, the dramatic bullet bras that we were diving into in Slack already, because we were kind of wondering if they're going to, like, make this their way into actual wardrobes. But, like, these elements of the 50s were definitely present and just nostalgia in general. I think we saw a lot of eras, whether it was like, the 80s at St. Laurent or the 70s at Chloe or even the 70s through the OTS lens at Chloe with the comeback of the Paddington bag, which was released in 2005. So there was, like, a lot of looking back, which was interesting.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah. And I love that. I feel like it really evokes a sense of excitement, especially if you've experienced that time or it's a time that you just feel personally connected to. And. Yeah, and those bullet bras are crazy. I feel like we're definitely Gonna see people like Devin Lee Carlson and, like, these IT girls just, like, rock them to dinner in LA or something. I don't know. I feel like I can see it.
Lauren Egertson
I'm waiting for it. Yeah.
Kristen Nichols
So then you went to London after New York, and it was definitely a quieter season. I know we've kind of talked about that, but curious to hear your perspective on what the general feeling of London Fashion Week was like, what the crowd was like, and your experience with the shows and appointments there.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah. So I've been to London Fashion Week for a number of years, and it was definitely a much quieter season. And there were, like, some bigger shows that were missing from the calendar that typically might be shown. But I think what was interesting is it really did, like, shine a light on a lot of the rising brands. London is a place we go to, like, see new talent, experience new designers, and kind of, like, on the rise brands that just, like, thrust these brands into the spotlight even more, which I thought was kind of a cool end result of that being quieter Fashion Week. And so there are designers like Dallara, who really were the talk of London Fashion Week. Her show felt very quintessential London. It was at this. I think it was like a club, and it felt kind of like, grimy. And it was at night. I think it was like 8 or 9pm and there was just like, a lot of excitement. People there were like, fans.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah.
Lauren Egertson
And a lot of moments felt reminiscent to me of 90s London Fashion Week. Some looks felt very John Galliano to me, but all still distinctly D'Lara. Lara Stone opened the show, and there were a lot of looks that had a, like, almost couture like element to them. Celebrities are also a fan, and we've already seen Charli XCX and Rosalia wear pieces from that collection on the red carpet. So that was a fun moment that just did feel very quintessential London Fashion Week.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, I love those moments. And you're so right. That's definitely. I think what people look forward to so much from London is that creativity and innovation, and they're always just pushing the boundaries in terms of, like, bigger industry moments. What were some standouts for you? What was everyone talking about?
Lauren Egertson
The last night of London Fashion Week and the last show of London Fashion Week is Burberry, and there was a lot of excitement around Burberry, and I was curious to see what editors would think, and everyone was really just buzzing that it was Daniel Lee's strongest collection yet. He really just took the Burberry house codes to another level and examined the brand through this lens of British countryside style. It's always like an amazing cast. Models like Naomi Campbell were walking. There was really great outerwear. I loved the outerwear overall, but especially want to steal some pieces from the men's looks. They were so good. There were just these amazing fringe, very textural coats and dresses at the end of the show that I feel like were very fun, very editorial, and those are some of my standouts from the collection.
Kristen Nichols
It was an amazing collection. You're right. Everyone was buzzing about it. Even on the Internet and around here when I wasn't there. It was. It was amazing.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah. And then right as I was winding down in London, you were on your way to Milan and you've gone to Milan a few times now. So I'm curious, what do you always look forward to about Milan Fashion Week and what's the overall vibe?
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, I love Milan. I feel like my first season, it was so new. It took me a while to warm up to the schedules. It's very intense. I feel like there are so many shows every day, honestly, like every hour starting at 9am, you have an appointment or a show and it's quite chaotic, but it has just so much buzzing energy about it. And most of my favorite brands are all in Milan. So it's always just such a fulfilling experience to be able to see these collections for the first time IRL and just be there and witness them. Prada is always like the moment in Milan for our industry and then also for myself. As a huge fan of the brand, I feel like we can always count on Muchia and Raph to really break through all expectations and do something unique that literally no one is doing. The collections are always a huge point of conversation for months to come as we anticipate even like the new collection. It's like, what is this going to be like? It always kind of lives in its own silo. There are often very few carry throughs in terms of themes. Like somehow Prada always makes sense together over the years, which is why it's so fun to like collect it, for example, because you can just be this Prada person and it's not based on trends, but somehow the brand is always the brand to set so many of these trends and shifts in our industry. This season, specifically the fall collection that was shown, they kind of called like an interrogation on what femininity means today. This was shown through a lot of exaggerated silhouettes, like with tiny bows placed on them and a lot of undone tailoring and ornate Ladylike finishes, like beautiful gem statement necklaces, and these distressed leather pumps with tiny little bows on them. Overall, it kind of just felt like this woman on the go and, like, breaking boundaries, though, with what you think is feminine and what you think a woman should be dressing like, which to counter that also, I feel like Miu Miu was a different version of that, which we can talk about later. And then for me also, Bally was another huge moment. I feel like there was all of the anticipation and rumors that their creative director or not current anymore at the time, Simone Velowski, it was his last collection, which we found out a few weeks afterwards. Now he's going to begin his journey being the creative director at Jill Sander, which I think is really exciting. I think ballet fans are definitely sad because I think he really found his groove there and was just creating such an really strong identity for the brand. But I'm excited to see what he does at Jill as well. And there are a ton of these shifts happening right now. I feel like it's like Tetris. It's so hard to keep track. I always describe it to my husband as like, a draft for, you know, like, basketball or something. Like, people are being traded and moved around, and it really does shift financials for all of these companies and all of that. So it's a huge, huge moment for our industry right now.
Lauren Egertson
At the office in New York, we were saying how we need someone to come up with some kind of, like, flowchart to figure out where everyone's going, which houses are vacant.
Kristen Nichols
Absolutely. Because I feel like we've been talking about, like, rumors for so long, and then I'm like, wait, that one came true.
Lauren Egertson
Right?
Kristen Nichols
Okay. You know, like, so it's been so chaotic, but very fun.
Lauren Egertson
Exactly. Yes. And going back to what you were saying about Prada, I feel like Prada is a show I always look to. To kind of see, like, one season ahead, what will be coming, or just like, the bigger, more so than trends, as you said, the themes that will permeate the season as a whole. And I think that was definitely true this season.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, totally.
Lauren Egertson
And then the final major fashion week of the month is, of course, Paris Fashion Week. So I'd love to hear a little bit more about your experience this season and just the general energy you felt around the week.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, it was a great week. It was an amazing season. I feel like we had a lot of incredible debuts. I don't often go, so I feel like that was a lot of newness to navigate. But some Standout moments, personally, was obviously Schiaparelli. It was an incredible show. It was my first time being able to attend one, which was such an honor. I was able to chat with, actually, which is like, a cute side note. One of our previous cover stars, Nara Smith, we shot her in November of last year. And on our cover, she wore this insane Schiaparelli look. And I ran into her when I was finding my seat, and she was like, oh, my gosh, I am so glad I saw you. This is my first Schiaparelli show. And I feel like it's because of our who, what, where cover. Like, it was such a moment, and I like, my favorite cover ever. And she was just being so sweet, and I was like, I mean, same. This is my first Schiaparelli show. Like, I hope it has something to do with that. And that was just really fun. But the collection itself was exactly what you would imagine. It was ornate. So intentional. There was a lot of western detailing and, like, nods to Western fashion and, like, these very specific themes. Even the music was western cowboy film vibes, which really set the tone, but also kind of juxtaposed these crazy, beautiful, like, glitzed out gowns, insane structures. Hearing this, like, sort of cowboy music, it was just funny. It was a contrast of, like, very hard structures and shapes mixed with a lot of soft motifs. Even, like, the leathers were very soft. We saw a lot of fringe, tons of buckles. It was just gorgeous. The show notes really talked a lot about the overarching theme that women should not dress for men, but for themselves. And I feel like Schiaparelli is always a testament to that. You know, women appreciate all of the detailing and the structures and the craftsmanship so much in those clothes. And so it was amazing to see it up close, close and personal. And then another incredible moment was the Loewe presentation. So Jonathan Anderson decided to forego a show and present the new collection as a presentation, which a lot of people, including myself, would argue is the best way to experience his designs. They're so specific and otherworldly, and I feel like seeing them just kind of run by you on the Runway. You can't appreciate all of the detail that goes into these pieces, from the shoes to the bags to. To the jewelry to the sunglasses to the ready to wear. Like, everything tells its own story. So being able to really spend time at the presentation and touch everything and take all the photos and videos and learn about each look was such an experience. Especially after now learning that Jonathan Anderson's last collection Was that one. He's been with the brand for about 11 years, and we don't know yet where he is heading.
Lauren Egertson
I can't wait to see some of those pieces in person. And then I have to agree with you. Schiaparelli was definitely another standout for me. I think Daniel Roseberry is just such a strong voice in fashion right now, and he just kind of runs with his creativity in a time when, like, we've seen, you know, minimalism and quite luxury reign. And then at Givenchy, I thought it was, you know, one of the debut collections we were referencing that happened this season, and it left me wanting to see more. I especially loved the looks that were inspired by the archives, yet had those modern twists. And I also think it's just really great to see a female perspective at such a major fashion house and how that changes the conversation about that brand and how it's interpreted by a woman at the top. So I was excited to see that as well.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, it was so fun to see people's coverage of it on Instagram, where they were just adding their candid thoughts. I saw definitely, more than once, people saying, like, Sarah Burton loves women. And it would just be, like, videos of certain looks from the collection. So that was such an exciting moment, for sure.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah.
Kristen Nichols
Okay. So looking at the month as a whole, you are the queen of trends. So what trends have you identified as emerging this season overall, now that we've, like, wrapped up everything?
Lauren Egertson
The first one that I think really stood out to me kind of goes back to what we were chatting about with the idea of, like, femininity at Prada and Miu Miu. And it's kind of what I'm calling, like, big feminine energy in the sense of, like. There were conversations throughout fashion month centered on ideas about femininity and fashion, both in terms of the actual clothes on the runways and then the collections that were presented by female artistic directors leading the fashion houses. At Miu Miu, the collection was actually titled Femininities. In the collection, she examined these emblems of women's wardrobes, as I mentioned, stoles and cone bras and brooches. And they were presented in this very exaggerated way at Miu Miu and in a similar manner at Prada. And then for Sarah Burton's debut collection at Givenchy, she paid homage to the atelier's origins through a distinctly female point of view. As we said, the clothes made it clear, especially a lot of, like, the elegant evening wear and some of these looks, that they were really designed for women. And that she loves designing for women. And then even at Schiaparelli, even though this is a house led by a man, it was a collection that was centered around women. And Daniel Roseberry reimagined old Hollywood glamour through a very female lens. As you mentioned, he wanted it to be about women dressing for themselves. I just loved that takeaway from the show notes. And it kind of brought this idea and theme home. And then one interesting thing that we saw a lot of on the runways was fur. A lot of designers are doing this with faux fur and have committed to that, but there were just a lot of these very furry pieces on the runways. And we saw this even at the very beginning of fashion week at Altazara and Tory Burch, where there were these beautiful shearling jackets that dominated the runways and a lot of editor shopping lists as well. And in Milan, it appeared at Prada, Fendi, Armani. In Paris, Miu Miu, Chloe, Valentino. And I think it was, like, maybe a year ago, we were talking about the mob wife and those big coats, but this time around, it's anything from a stole to a collar to even these kind of, like, charms tied to handbags that it was just interesting to see it appear in so many collections this season.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah. For those of you who want, like, a transparent view of how it feels to see something so often, it's like you see it the first couple of times in a few collections, and you're like, right, what? It's fall for furry things. Okay. But then you see it over and over and over and over in all of, like, the biggest brands, all the biggest luxury brands, even, like, the smaller brands. And that's kind of when we start paying attention, and we're like, okay, this is definitely a moment that's going to be happening next season.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah. The abundance was just incredible, in a sense, because it was just something you saw in almost every collection. There's also been some interesting things happening in terms of color, where after many, many seasons of the minimal neutral colorways dominating, there's, like, a shift in the entirely oppos direction this spring. We've already seen this appetite for a lot more color in terms of pastels and powder pink dominating. And then for fall, the color will just be back in full force in these kind of, like, technicolor shades. And this, I think, was the most clear at the St. Laurent Runway show that ended Paris Fashion Week, where Anthony Bacarello sent models out in look after, look after look of just, like, every vibrant color possible, whether it was violet or tangerine or fuchsia or scarlet. And a lot of the looks even, like, paired multiple of these colors with, like, a big kind of 80s bold shoulder coat with a belt tied at the waist in a different color, but still just as vibrant. And so I think that that is something we'll be seeing enter into people's wardrobes a lot more is just this use of more color. As someone who wears a lot of neutrals, I'm actually ready for it.
Kristen Nichols
Oh, my gosh.
Lauren Egertson
I know. Shocking.
Kristen Nichols
I'm excited to see. I'm going to hold you to that.
Lauren Egertson
So, yeah. And, I mean, I think the other theme I saw a lot of, and I think this ties back to a lot of the shifts we're seeing at the top of fashion, is how designers are really going back to the archives and digging into what makes the brand distinct and reinterpreting that for today. I think in this landscape of quiet luxury and minimalism, a lot of brands started to look the same. And shoppers, I think, were kind of questioning, why would I shop from this brand if I can buy the same piece from 10 different brands? And so now I think some of the strongest collections of the season feel rooted in what makes them stand apart. Brands like Fendi, Schiaparelli, Givenchy did this very well, and I think people really want an emotional connection to the brands, and designers are starting to carve that out again, and there's just, like, the sense of authenticity that I think we'll be seeing more of.
Kristen Nichols
I feel like this also kind of ties into a lot of the things we talked about last season. Authenticity to the brands, but also authenticity to your own personal style and, like, how you want to dress. Quiet luxury, while it definitely lends to a very chic and polished wardrobe, it just took over the masses, and I think people are craving to, like, break free of that a little bit and tap into these unique and more ornate and colorful pieces and looks and brands. So I'm excited to see how that translates. Speaking of trends and trying new things, what do you think, Kristin, are some of the more wearable trends that we're seeing that you were kind of chatting about? And are you excited to try any specifically come fall?
Lauren Egertson
This might not sound wearable, but I'm really ready to embrace the peplum and, like, hourglass silhouette again. I know that it's a little bit divisive, but I think that that was a very strong trend on the runways in terms of some of the shapes we were seeing. And there already are so many great pieces on the market from brands like Libero comes to mind and Active Butrum.
Kristen Nichols
I love a peplum, so I'm very excited about that. I'm also excited for leaning into this aspect of femininity and like, connecting with myself in that way. I feel like a lot of times this quiet luxury look can honestly read a bit androgynous in a ways. You know, like, it's a lot of trousers and button downs and T shirts and sweaters, and I'm excited to really embrace, like, skirts and colorful, pretty satin fabrics and maybe some bows here and there. I don't know. Like, I. I'm excited to try to figure out how to work that into my personal style because I feel like I've been so paired back for a minute. So I think that will be fun. Including a peplum. I feel like a peplum fits into that whole story. So.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah, I've noticed recently I have been starting to wear, like, more lace trimmed slip skirts and slingback heels and, like, florals, and I'm excited to embrace that even further. Totally did want to ask you, since I know you always have an eye out for styling our beautiful covers. Are there any looks you think we'll see in editorials in the coming months?
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, so many. There was a slew of like two or three of these, like, neon floral Prada dresses on the Runway. A lot of them had, like, the models had this poofed out curly hair that was wild and frizzy.
Lauren Egertson
I loved the hair.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, I feel like that hair. Maybe we'll see that even as, like a glam in editorials. But specifically the dresses that they paired, I feel like we're gonna see those. They're just such a fun cover moment. There were these three ish Balenciaga robe coats. One was like all fur. One was white leather, one was red fur. They're just crazy. And I remember being at the Reese's and even like joking with Nikki, the editor in chief of Marie Claire. We're like, how many covers is that Balenciaga red coat gonna be on? They also had cool swim dresses that I was obsessed with. There was like a hot pink one, a cobalt blue one, and I think a black or a white. I don't know. Don't quote me on that. But the colorful ones I think were really fun, and I think they'll definitely be shot a lot, especially like in the summer as we get close. I think it'll be a really fun one. Schiaparelli, I think we'll see everywhere on the red carpet as well, which I know we're going to get into Givenchy, especially those, like, big blazer dresses with the exaggerated shoulders. I think that would make such a strong cover moment. And then Ferragamo. We haven't talked about that collection yet, but there was a lot of incredible pieces there. Specifically, there was this gorgeous red feather turtleneck, high neck, long sleeve midi dress that I feel like any angle of that dress would make a beautiful photo. So those are kind of my, my call outs. But we also love to predict so many red carpet moments. So I'm curious if you have any ideas of what you think we're going to see populated once award season comes back around and all of that.
Lauren Egertson
Yeah, I think Schiaparelli, as you mentioned, will definitely have some beautiful red carpet moments. There are two looks in particular. These kind of champagne gold gowns that I think are just very elegant ones, more of like a jewel encrusted style that I can't wait to see someone wear. And then one that's more of like a 90s, more minimal, but like still very striking dress. So I'm excited to see both of those. And then I think Givenchy also feels primed for some beautiful red carpet moments, perhaps. At the Met Gala, we saw Elle Fanning wore Sarah Burton's first custom Givenchy look at the Oscars. So I would bet that she could perhaps be wearing something that was in the Runway collection and a custom version. There's been this old Hollywood glamour sweeping the red carpet in general, especially amongst some of the younger celebrities, like Elle Fanning. I think that that would be a really impactful piece and collection to pull some looks from. I especially loved look 26 that had this voluminous bow skirt that I imagine could be reinterpreted into some kind of beautiful gown version. And then look 38 was a satin dress that was designed with a train and had this romantic sash belt at the waist. And then I also think the Jonathan Anderson looks from his last collection at Loewe would be really fun to see on a celebrity, especially since they were viewed by editors and stylists alike in a presentation setting. So we actually haven't seen anyone wear them yet. So I think those will be really fun moments. And perhaps not at an award show, but I think maybe like an after party red carpet would be a really fun moment for those.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, I feel like those dresses, there was like three with all the little pieces coming out. If they did like a custom look that was like a gown version, like something like that could be so cool. And then your Givenchy note about the bow skirt reminded me of the Saint Laurent big sculptural skirts with the bows. Like, that could be interesting to see, like, a custom version of that. That feels more red carpet. So many things. I feel like we could talk about.
Lauren Egertson
That forever, and especially in Paris. I feel like that's where we really see a lot of these looks that are going to end up on the red carpet. And because the Oscars happened before Paris Fashion Week, now these looks are just waiting to be worn. So very excited to see what comes from that.
Kristen Nichols
Definitely. Oh, and the Chloe lace dresses with, like, the big ruffle peplums. I think those would be pretty.
Lauren Egertson
Yes. Yes. So pretty. What collection do you think you'll be shopping for first? Or maybe there's a few.
Kristen Nichols
Always a few too many. I really, really, really loved and will probably buy if they produce them, the distressed leather pumps from Prada. I like the ones with the bows, but they did them without the bows as well. I think they had them in, like, a black and a brown and this kind of, like, bone color. I loved that bone color, and I love the brown. I feel like they'll be so chic with jeans and trousers and all of it. I just was obsessed. I also have been on this weird journey for, like, a very subtle sneaker that looks good with trousers.
Lauren Egertson
I've been on that journey too, and I haven't quite figured it out.
Kristen Nichols
Well, there is one that's really cute. I feel like you should also try on the, like, new Prada nylon ones. Yeah, I almost bought those in Milan, and I think they look way cuter when you, like, put them on your foot, because they need to, like, form it in their shape. But anyways, Balenciaga did a collab with Puma, so a lot of the ready to wear pieces had, you know, there was, like, trucks, suits, and jackets and all of that, but there were also sneakers, and there was a black pair of these, like, Balenciaga Puma sneakers that were kind of this, like, distressed suede. But they're a very simple, sleek style. There's not too much going on. I like the little sporty Puma logo. Like, I'm not against that. I thought they were just kind of fun, so I might be buying that. What about you?
Lauren Egertson
Nice. I need to check those out, because I don't think I saw those yet. Okay. So I feel like for fall, I'm always thinking about outerwear, and there was such strong outerwear in the collections this season at Prada and Chloe. I loved their like, faux fur trimmed coats and jackets. At Prada, there was one that was. I think it was like, either a really dark gray or a black. Just loved that. And then at Chloe, they had almost these, like, robe, like, quilted coats that were really long, and I just feel like that would be so fun for falling. And then, I mean, this is like pipe dream. But at Hermes, they also had these really stunning leather coats that had these tassel ties and almost like tooled leather, and I just truly can't stop thinking about those.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, Hermes also had these really good flat riding boots.
Lauren Egertson
Oh, yes.
Kristen Nichols
I think they kind of had, like, a pointed toe, which I feel like the toe is the reason why I can't get into a riding boot. I feel like it just cuts me off because I'm kind of short. But the, like, elongated toe was really chic and made them just feel fancier, which was cool.
Lauren Egertson
So pretty.
Kristen Nichols
Okay, what do you feel like was your overall impression of the season? I feel like we've really chatted about all of the nuances and the trends and the specific moments and the specific looks, but how do you feel like this fashion month or this year really feels different from seasons past?
Lauren Egertson
You know, like last season, this season was really dominated by conversations about all the reshuffling at the fashion houses. So I think that that was really interesting. We started to see a lot of the new debuts, whether at Givenchy, Drew Sven Noten and Tom Ford. And then there was a lot of chatter about the other much anticipated debuts, including Matthew Blasey at Chanel, Michael Ryder at Celine, and Louise Charter at Bottega. And even I think it was noticeably different that Bottega didn't show because we're waiting for her to step into that role. So I think just all these changes have dominated what we're talking about in terms of what's to come. And then I think even, like, at the tail end of Fashion Month, I think it was a day or two after Paris Fashion Week ended, even more changes were announced. So Donatella Versace stepping down after three decades, and Daria Vitale, who was appointed. And then Demna de Gucci. Questions about who will head to Balenciaga. Of course, Jonathan Anderson leaving the weve and rumors about where he might be headed. You know, again, like, we're waiting for a lot of these changes, but I think as we talked about earlier with the house codes and the authenticity and the way that design is shifting, we're starting to see a lot of the creative directors kind of reclaim their distinct points of view and design these collections that elicit an emotional response. I'm just excited to see how that continues as designers step into these new appointments. And I think that'll have a big impact on, of course, fashion moving forward, but also a lot of what we were seeing this season.
Kristen Nichols
Yeah, definitely. Well, Kristin, this was so much fun to catch up with you. I wish we could do all the fashion weeks together because I know we would just have so much fun together. But I loved picking your brain and hearing about your favorite moments and the things that really stood out to you. And I'm excited to see all the content that I know you're already doing on who, what, Where. But our readers always look to you so much for the latest and the greatest with everything that's happening in our industry. So thank you so much for joining me.
Lauren Egertson
Thank you, Lauren. So fun diving into everything.
Kristen Nichols
A huge thank you to Whoowares Associate Director of Special Projects Kristen Nichols. Make sure to subscribe to our show wherever you listen to podcasts so you don't miss an episode. And while you're there, I'd also be so grateful if you would rate and review us. If you have guest suggestions or any other feedback, drop us a line@podcastwhatware.com or you can find us on social at whowhatwere. See you next Wednesday on the who what Where Podcast. This episode was produced by Hilary Kerr, Summer Hammeris, and Natalie Thurman. Our production assistant is Claire Schmidt. Our editor is Ko Takasugi Chernevan. Our audio engineers are at Glen Canyon Audio, and our music is by Jonathan Leahy.
The Who What Wear Podcast
Episode: Fashion Month F/W 25 Recap: Bullet Bras and "Big Feminine Energy"
Release Date: April 2, 2025
Hosts:
In this episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, hosts Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols provide an insightful recap of the Fall/Winter 2025 Fashion Month. Covering New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks, the duo delves into the most compelling stories, standout collections, and emerging trends that dominated the runways. They also reflect on their initial trend predictions from New York Fashion Week to assess their accuracy and explore what fashion enthusiasts can expect on the red carpet in the coming months.
Lauren Egertson kicks off the discussion by revisiting her experiences from New York Fashion Week, highlighting the shift towards more intimate and nostalgic collections.
“New York Fashion Week feels like so long ago, but what we were seeing at the beginning of Fashion Month in New York were these more intimate collections. Calmire comes to mind. It was a really small and intimate show...”
— Lauren Egertson [03:04]
Key Highlights:
Kristen Nichols echoes Lauren's excitement about the bullet bras trend, anticipating their rise in everyday fashion.
“I feel like we're definitely gonna see people like Devin Lee Carlson and, like, these IT girls just, like, rock them to dinner in LA or something.”
— Kristen Nichols [05:03]
Following their New York insights, Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols turn to London Fashion Week, noting its quieter season compared to previous years.
Key Highlights:
“It felt like a lot of excitement. People there were like, fans. And a lot of moments felt reminiscent to me of 90s London Fashion Week.”
— Lauren Egertson [06:38]
“Daniel Lee's strongest collection yet. He really just took the Burberry house codes to another level...”
— Lauren Egertson [07:27]
Transitioning to Milan, Kristen Nichols shares her enthusiasm for the vibrant and intense atmosphere characteristic of the city’s fashion scene.
“I feel like there are so many shows every day, honestly, like every hour starting at 9am...”
— Kristen Nichols [08:43]
Key Highlights:
“They kind of called like an interrogation on what femininity means today... breaking boundaries, though, with what you think is feminine...”
— Kristen Nichols [10:00]
Kristen Nichols recounts her first experience attending a Schiaparelli show, highlighting the brand’s ornate and Western-inspired collection.
“The collection itself was exactly what you would imagine. It was ornate... there was a lot of western detailing...”
— Kristen Nichols [14:00]
Key Highlights:
“Being able to really spend time at the presentation and touch everything and take all the photos and videos and learn about each look was such an experience.”
— Kristen Nichols [14:30]
Both hosts emphasize the resurgence of femininity as a dominant theme across multiple collections.
“There were conversations throughout fashion month centered on ideas about femininity and fashion...”
— Lauren Egertson [16:24]
Highlights:
Fur, particularly faux fur, made a significant comeback, featured in everything from jackets to accessories.
“There were just a lot of these very furry pieces on the runways.”
— Lauren Egertson [17:00]
Highlights:
After seasons dominated by minimal neutrals, vibrant colors surged back onto the runways.
“This season, specifically the fall collection that was shown... felt like this woman on the go and, like, breaking boundaries.”
— Lauren Egertson [19:22]
Highlights:
Designers increasingly returned to their brand’s heritage, reinterpreting archival elements to maintain distinct identities.
“A lot of designers are really going back to the archives and digging into what makes the brand distinct...”
— Lauren Egertson [20:42]
Highlights:
Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols discuss several wearable trends emerging from the season, expressing excitement to incorporate them into their personal styles.
Wearable Trends:
“I'm really ready to embrace the peplum and, like, hourglass silhouette again.”
— Lauren Egertson [22:16]
“I have been starting to wear, like, more lace trimmed slip skirts and slingback heels and, like, florals...”
— Lauren Egertson [23:21]
“Prada nylon sneakers... Balenciaga Puma sneakers... Chloé lace dresses with, like, the big ruffle peplums.”
— Kristen Nichols [23:42]
Wrapping up the discussion, Lauren Egertson reflects on the significant changes within the fashion industry, particularly the reshuffling of creative directors and the impact on brand identities.
“Last season, this season was really dominated by conversations about all the reshuffling at the fashion houses.”
— Lauren Egertson [30:40]
Key Takeaways:
Final Thoughts: Lauren and Kristen express excitement about the evolving landscape of fashion, anticipating how these shifts will continue to influence trends and design philosophies. They underscore the importance of authenticity and emotional connection in fostering brand loyalty and driving the industry forward.
Lauren Egertson [03:04]:
“New York Fashion Week feels like so long ago, but what we were seeing at the beginning of Fashion Month in New York were these more intimate collections.”
Kristen Nichols [05:03]:
“I feel like we're definitely gonna see people like Devin Lee Carlson and, like, these IT girls just, like, rock them to dinner in LA or something.”
Lauren Egertson [07:27]:
“Daniel Lee's strongest collection yet. He really just took the Burberry house codes to another level...”
Kristen Nichols [08:43]:
“I feel like there are so many shows every day, honestly, like every hour starting at 9am...”
Lauren Egertson [16:24]:
“There were conversations throughout fashion month centered on ideas about femininity and fashion...”
Kristen Nichols [22:16]:
“I'm really ready to embrace the peplum and, like, hourglass silhouette again.”
This episode of The Who What Wear Podcast offers a comprehensive and engaging analysis of the Fall/Winter 2025 Fashion Month. Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols expertly navigate through the highlights of each major fashion week, identifying key trends and providing thoughtful predictions for the future of fashion. Whether you're a seasoned fashion enthusiast or simply curious about the latest in style, this episode delivers valuable insights and inspiration to stay ahead in the ever-evolving world of fashion.