The Who What Wear Podcast
Episode: Fashion Month F/W 25 Recap: Bullet Bras and "Big Feminine Energy"
Release Date: April 2, 2025

Hosts:

• Lauren Egertson, Editorial Director
• Kristen Nichols, Associate Director of Special Projects

Introduction

In this episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, hosts Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols provide an insightful recap of the Fall/Winter 2025 Fashion Month. Covering New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks, the duo delves into the most compelling stories, standout collections, and emerging trends that dominated the runways. They also reflect on their initial trend predictions from New York Fashion Week to assess their accuracy and explore what fashion enthusiasts can expect on the red carpet in the coming months.

New York Fashion Week Recap

Lauren Egertson kicks off the discussion by revisiting her experiences from New York Fashion Week, highlighting the shift towards more intimate and nostalgic collections.

“New York Fashion Week feels like so long ago, but what we were seeing at the beginning of Fashion Month in New York were these more intimate collections. Calmire comes to mind. It was a really small and intimate show...”
— Lauren Egertson [03:04]

Key Highlights:

• Intimacy on the Runway: Major designers like Louis Vuitton opted for smaller shows, focusing on close-knit guest lists for their debut collections. Designers such as Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Heather Ackerman at Tom Ford embraced this trend.
• Nostalgia as a Theme: Collections frequently referenced past decades, particularly the 1950s. Givenchy and Miu Miu showcased silhouettes and elements reminiscent of that era, including bullet bras—a trend that garnered significant attention.

Kristen Nichols echoes Lauren's excitement about the bullet bras trend, anticipating their rise in everyday fashion.

“I feel like we're definitely gonna see people like Devin Lee Carlson and, like, these IT girls just, like, rock them to dinner in LA or something.”
— Kristen Nichols [05:03]

London Fashion Week Recap

Following their New York insights, Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols turn to London Fashion Week, noting its quieter season compared to previous years.

Key Highlights:

• Rise of Emerging Brands: With fewer big-name shows, London became a platform for up-and-coming designers. Dallara stood out with a show that exuded quintessential London vibes—grim and club-like atmospheres that harken back to the 90s.

“It felt like a lot of excitement. People there were like, fans. And a lot of moments felt reminiscent to me of 90s London Fashion Week.”
— Lauren Egertson [06:38]

• Burberry’s Strong Collection: The finale of London Fashion Week was marked by Burberry's impressive collection under Daniel Lee, praised as his strongest yet. The collection emphasized British countryside aesthetics with an emphasis on texture and editorial flair.

“Daniel Lee's strongest collection yet. He really just took the Burberry house codes to another level...”
— Lauren Egertson [07:27]

Milan Fashion Week Recap

Transitioning to Milan, Kristen Nichols shares her enthusiasm for the vibrant and intense atmosphere characteristic of the city’s fashion scene.

“I feel like there are so many shows every day, honestly, like every hour starting at 9am...”
— Kristen Nichols [08:43]

Key Highlights:

• Prada’s Exploration of Femininity: Prada’s fall collection interrogated modern femininity through exaggerated silhouettes and ornate details. The collection included distressed leather pumps with bows and gem-studded accessories, encapsulating a woman on the move who defies traditional feminine norms.

“They kind of called like an interrogation on what femininity means today... breaking boundaries, though, with what you think is feminine...”
— Kristen Nichols [10:00]

• Creative Shifts in Leadership: Milan Fashion Week notable for creative directors like Simone Velowski transitioning to Jil Sander, signaling significant shifts within the industry’s power dynamics.

Paris Fashion Week Recap

Kristen Nichols recounts her first experience attending a Schiaparelli show, highlighting the brand’s ornate and Western-inspired collection.

“The collection itself was exactly what you would imagine. It was ornate... there was a lot of western detailing...”
— Kristen Nichols [14:00]

Key Highlights:

• Schiaparelli’s Statement: The brand emphasized that women should dress for themselves, featuring intricate designs and juxtaposing hard structures with soft motifs.
• Loewe’s Immersive Presentation: Jonathan Anderson showcased Loewe’s collection through a presentation rather than a traditional runway show, allowing for a closer appreciation of the brand’s detailed craftsmanship.

“Being able to really spend time at the presentation and touch everything and take all the photos and videos and learn about each look was such an experience.”
— Kristen Nichols [14:30]

• Givenchy’s Female-Led Debut: Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy brought a fresh female perspective, infusing the collection with elegance and modern twists on archival designs.

Key Trends of F/W 25

1. Big Feminine Energy

Both hosts emphasize the resurgence of femininity as a dominant theme across multiple collections.

“There were conversations throughout fashion month centered on ideas about femininity and fashion...”
— Lauren Egertson [16:24]

Highlights:

• Exaggerated Feminine Silhouettes: Designers explored traditional feminine elements in bold, contemporary ways.
• Empowerment through Design: Collections like Prada and Miu Miu’s presented femininity as a form of empowerment, encouraging women to dress for themselves.

2. The Rise of Fur

Fur, particularly faux fur, made a significant comeback, featured in everything from jackets to accessories.

“There were just a lot of these very furry pieces on the runways.”
— Lauren Egertson [17:00]

Highlights:

• Versatile Use of Fur: Designers incorporated fur in diverse applications, from stoles to handbag charms, signaling its versatility.
• Sustainable Fur Choices: Emphasis on faux fur highlighted the industry’s shift towards more sustainable practices.

3. Vibrant Colors Making a Comeback

After seasons dominated by minimal neutrals, vibrant colors surged back onto the runways.

“This season, specifically the fall collection that was shown... felt like this woman on the go and, like, breaking boundaries.”
— Lauren Egertson [19:22]

Highlights:

• Technicolor Shades: Collections featured bold colors like violet, tangerine, fuchsia, and scarlet, particularly evident in St. Laurent’s vibrant displays.
• Pastels Transitioning to Bold Hues: While spring introduced pastels, fall embraced intense and striking colors.

4. Brand Authenticity and Archival Inspirations

Designers increasingly returned to their brand’s heritage, reinterpreting archival elements to maintain distinct identities.

“A lot of designers are really going back to the archives and digging into what makes the brand distinct...”
— Lauren Egertson [20:42]

Highlights:

• Emotional Connection: Brands like Fendi, Schiaparelli, and Givenchy leveraged their history to create collections that resonate emotionally with consumers.
• Authenticity Over Trends: Emphasizing unique brand identities over fleeting trends fostered a sense of authenticity and loyalty.

Predictions and Wearable Trends

Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols discuss several wearable trends emerging from the season, expressing excitement to incorporate them into their personal styles.

Wearable Trends:

• Peplum and Hourglass Silhouettes: Despite being divisive, these shapes are expected to make a strong comeback, with brands like Libero and Active Butrum leading the charge.

“I'm really ready to embrace the peplum and, like, hourglass silhouette again.”
— Lauren Egertson [22:16]

• Lace-Trimmed Slip Skirts and Florals: Lauren mentions her growing affinity for lace-trimmed skirts and floral patterns, anticipating their increased presence in fall wardrobes.

“I have been starting to wear, like, more lace trimmed slip skirts and slingback heels and, like, florals...”
— Lauren Egertson [23:21]

• Colorful Dresses and Unique Outerwear: Kristen highlights specific looks from Prada, Balenciaga, and Schiaparelli that feature vibrant colors and innovative outerwear designs poised for editorial and red carpet appearances.

“Prada nylon sneakers... Balenciaga Puma sneakers... Chloé lace dresses with, like, the big ruffle peplums.”
— Kristen Nichols [23:42]

Conclusion: Overall Impression and Industry Shifts

Wrapping up the discussion, Lauren Egertson reflects on the significant changes within the fashion industry, particularly the reshuffling of creative directors and the impact on brand identities.

“Last season, this season was really dominated by conversations about all the reshuffling at the fashion houses.”
— Lauren Egertson [30:40]

Key Takeaways:

• Leadership Changes: Notable shifts include Donatella Versace stepping down and Jonathan Anderson leaving Loewe, signaling a period of transition and potential innovation.
• Emphasis on Distinctiveness: As designers reclaim their unique visions, collections have become more emotionally resonant and brand-specific, moving away from homogenized minimalism.
• Future Outlook: The ongoing changes promise to shape the future of fashion, with new creative directions poised to influence upcoming seasons and industry standards.

Final Thoughts: Lauren and Kristen express excitement about the evolving landscape of fashion, anticipating how these shifts will continue to influence trends and design philosophies. They underscore the importance of authenticity and emotional connection in fostering brand loyalty and driving the industry forward.

Notable Quotes

• Lauren Egertson [03:04]:
  “New York Fashion Week feels like so long ago, but what we were seeing at the beginning of Fashion Month in New York were these more intimate collections.”

• Kristen Nichols [05:03]:
  “I feel like we're definitely gonna see people like Devin Lee Carlson and, like, these IT girls just, like, rock them to dinner in LA or something.”

• Lauren Egertson [07:27]:
  “Daniel Lee's strongest collection yet. He really just took the Burberry house codes to another level...”

• Kristen Nichols [08:43]:
  “I feel like there are so many shows every day, honestly, like every hour starting at 9am...”

• Lauren Egertson [16:24]:
  “There were conversations throughout fashion month centered on ideas about femininity and fashion...”

• Kristen Nichols [22:16]:
  “I'm really ready to embrace the peplum and, like, hourglass silhouette again.”

Conclusion

This episode of The Who What Wear Podcast offers a comprehensive and engaging analysis of the Fall/Winter 2025 Fashion Month. Lauren Egertson and Kristen Nichols expertly navigate through the highlights of each major fashion week, identifying key trends and providing thoughtful predictions for the future of fashion. Whether you're a seasoned fashion enthusiast or simply curious about the latest in style, this episode delivers valuable insights and inspiration to stay ahead in the ever-evolving world of fashion.