Summary of "Hacks" Costume Design with Kathleen Felix-Hager on The Who What Wear Podcast

Release Date: June 4, 2025

In this insightful episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Lauren Eggertson converses with Emmy-award-winning costume designer Kathleen Felix-Hager about her work on the acclaimed TV show "Hacks." The discussion delves deep into the intricacies of crafting the distinctive wardrobes of central characters Deborah Vance and Ava Daniels in Season 4, exploring themes of style evolution, character development, and the unique challenges of costuming a comedy series.

Kathleen Felix-Hager’s Journey into Costume Design

Kathleen begins by sharing her serendipitous entry into the world of costume design. Her career took off unexpectedly when she joined the costume department for the 1994 film Waterworld. Growing up around the film industry, thanks to her stepfather's involvement, Kathleen was familiar with the environment but found the specifics of costume design to be a new and exciting challenge.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [02:50]: “I just was like a little sponge and I just absolutely fell in love.”

Her passion grew as she recognized the power of costumes in storytelling, likening her visual interpretation of scripts to her lifelong love of reading.

Landing the Role on "Hacks"

Kathleen landed her role on "Hacks" through a pre-existing professional relationship. Having previously worked with Morgan Sackett, the show's producer, she was approached to design for the new series starring Jean Smart. This opportunity arose during the tumultuous summer of 2020, amidst the COVID-19 pandemic, presenting both challenges and a creative outlet that kept her motivated.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [05:21]: “Something of a blueprint for Deborah Vance's vibrant, ostentatious style.”

The Costume Design Process for "Hacks"

The design process began with the creation of mood boards and digital lookbooks for both main characters, Ava and Deborah. Kathleen emphasizes the collaborative nature of costume design, highlighting how each designer brings their unique interpretation to a character.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [05:36]: “Everyone brings their thoughts and interpretation to the character, which I think is what makes costume design so interesting and exciting.”

Ava Daniels’s Wardrobe Evolution

A significant portion of the discussion centers on Ava Daniels’s transformation over the seasons. Initially portrayed with high-waisted, cropped pants and vintage thrifting styles that often clashed with Deborah’s sophisticated taste, Ava's wardrobe in Season 4 showcases a matured, elevated aesthetic. Kathleen highlights the use of luxury brands like Officine General, Toteme, and Louis Vuitton to reflect Ava's growth from a fledgling writer to the head writer of a late-night show.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [09:00]: “I really stuck to her formula of like T shirts and pants and button down. But it was all elevated and the cuts were different.”

Kathleen also addresses online reactions to Ava's early style choices, acknowledging the emotional connections viewers have to fashion trends from their own pasts.

Deborah Vance’s Maximalist Style Inspired by Kathleen’s Grandmother

Deborah Vance’s vibrant and maximalist style draws inspiration from Kathleen’s late grandmother, Mary, who was known for her flamboyant and meticulously curated appearance. This personal connection adds depth to Deborah’s character, infusing her wardrobe with rich textures, bold patterns, and an eclectic mix of vintage and high-end pieces.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [15:52]: “She was just slightly over the top. She's no longer with us, but I do have a large collection of her vintage costume jewelry that she collected. So I used some of that on Deborah.”

Collaborating closely with Jean Smart, Kathleen ensured that Deborah’s outfits remained character-driven, irrespective of the brand, thereby expanding the creative possibilities.

Memorable Costume Moments and Deep-Cut References

Kathleen shares several standout moments, such as the fuchsia dress, which serves as a visual throughline linking Deborah’s past and present. This dress not only symbolizes her character’s journey but also ties back to sentimental elements like the reflection of her younger self.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [24:10]: “I'm quite fond of the fuchsia dress. It's just a sweet little through line about where she started and where she ended up.”

Additionally, Ava’s beloved vintage Nike T-shirt and its significance in character relationships are highlighted, showcasing how wardrobe choices can enhance narrative elements.

Challenges of Costuming a Comedy vs. a Drama

Costuming for a comedy like "Hacks" presents unique challenges, particularly in balancing authenticity with humor. Kathleen discusses instances where costumes needed subtle adjustments to amplify comedic effect without compromising the character's believability. For example, altering Ava’s chic caddy outfit with a visor and rearranging her shirt for added humor during a golf retreat scene.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [25:32]: “I try to keep things grounded in reality. But I do love when there are moments where the camera finds funny things in the costumes.”

Future Directions and Character Development

Looking ahead, Kathleen expresses excitement about further developing the characters' styles in potential future seasons. She emphasizes a desire to see how the evolving relationships and personal growth of Ava and Deborah will translate into their wardrobes, ensuring that costumes continue to reflect their dynamic lives.

Kathleen Felix-Hager [26:38]: “I'm excited to see where the story is going to take them. That's the main thing I'm excited about.”

Conclusion

Kathleen Felix-Hager’s thoughtful and deeply personal approach to costume design has significantly contributed to the rich character development seen in "Hacks." By intertwining personal inspirations with professional expertise, she has crafted wardrobes that not only enhance the visual storytelling but also resonate emotionally with the audience. This episode offers a fascinating glimpse into the meticulous artistry behind the scenes, celebrating the pivotal role of costume design in shaping memorable television narratives.

Notable Quotes:

• Kathleen Felix-Hager [02:50]: “I just was like a little sponge and I just absolutely fell in love.”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [05:36]: “Everyone brings their thoughts and interpretation to the character, which I think is what makes costume design so interesting and exciting.”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [09:00]: “I really stuck to her formula of like T shirts and pants and button down. But it was all elevated and the cuts were different.”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [15:52]: “She was just slightly over the top... So I used some of that on Deborah.”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [24:10]: “I'm quite fond of the fuchsia dress...”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [25:32]: “I try to keep things grounded in reality. But I do love when there are moments where the camera finds funny things in the costumes.”
• Kathleen Felix-Hager [26:38]: “I'm excited to see where the story is going to take them.”

This comprehensive summary captures the essence of Kathleen Felix-Hager’s contributions to "Hacks," highlighting the thoughtful integration of fashion and character development that defines the show’s stylish narrative.