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Nikki
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Bobby Schessler
Welcome to the who It Wear podcast, your direct line to the designers, stylists, beauty experts, editors and tastemakers who are shaping the ever evolving world of fashion. I'm who It Wears shopping director Bobby Schessler and today I'm chatting with the founder and creative director of Pistola Denim, Grace Na. I've been a fan of Pistola's trendy yet classic denim styles for years now, so I was so eager to sit down with Grace and hear more about her story. Grace created Pistola after learning the denim ropes from her in laws who own a white label denim company in Los Angeles. Since Pistola's launch in 2013, the company has attracted a huge customer base thanks to its high quality, affordable pieces and viral products. She joins me today to talk about her data driven approach to design, her style tips for different denim silhouettes, and her thoughts on the modern take on on skinny jeans. It's all coming up on who, what, where? Grace, thank you so much for joining me today. We're so excited to have you.
Grace Na
I'm so excited to be here too.
Bobby Schessler
For those listening, I wanted to say that I'm actually wearing a Pistola sweater while we record this. So I am representing. I am a big fan.
Grace Na
You look amazing in your Eve sweater.
Bobby Schessler
Thank you. Okay, so to start, I'd love to hear a little bit about your background. What was your relationship with fashion growing up and how did you decide to start on this career path?
Grace Na
Starting from an early age, I was introduced to fashion and high fashion through my fabulous aunt Helen. And in really spending quality time with her, she lived in Hong Kong and in London. And every summer she would come out to LA and she took me on all of her shopping trips. She came to LA to really discover all the coolest and newest brands. And so back in the day when Robertson was really happening, she took me there to really go shopping at Barney's, Saks and Intermix and all of those great places. And you know, even when she went back, she would send me her credit card and say, hey, like, if there's anything new and amazing, please shop for me. So that was really my introduction into great fashion.
Bobby Schessler
I love that. Wow. I would love for someone to give me their credit card to shop for them.
Grace Na
I know. So much fun.
Bobby Schessler
Okay, so a lot of creative directors, designers that we talk to on this show have launched their brands straight out of fashion school. And I love that you've actually had like a thriving career in retail buying and planning before you started this line. So tell me a little bit about that experience and how your previous experience helped shape what the business is today.
Grace Na
I think, you know, having been introduced to fashion, it was always a dream of mine to become a buyer because you had your hand in the curation, the assortment, the picking of the product. But the first opportunity that was presented to me was more in a planning background. And so that's how I started my early career in really analyzing the data and planning the business. And I think that was the best thing that could have ever happened just because it really taught me the business of fashion. And so later, after planning for a couple of years, I was able and given the opportunity to move into buying. And I really loved it. I had so much fun learning and doing it and really just ruined my career as a buyer and ultimately as VP of buying and merchandising. And that's where I really learned how to merchandise curate the assortment, which is really like the fundamentals of a brand.
Bobby Schessler
Amazing. So Pistola is technically a family business that you incubated under your in laws brand?
Grace Na
Yes.
Bobby Schessler
So take me back. How did this start and what was it like building a brand with your in laws and that whole experience?
Grace Na
Yeah, so back when I was dating my husband, my now husband, that was during a time where I was really concepting and building brands for other people and other businesses. And during that time, my mother in law was slowly urging me, hey, you know, why don't you join the family business? You know, if you and Kevin were to create something of your own, ultimately the payoff would be much greater. And so it took about a year for me to finally warm up to the idea and join it. But once we did, we were able to really utilize their resources that they had in terms of, you know, whether it came to tech, design, patterns, even just their factory sources, because they had been in the denim industry for so long, and so we were able to incubate, test, and learn a ton under them. I didn't really have much of a denim manufacturing background. Even as a buyer and as a planner, you're not really learning how to manufacture a product or create a brand. And so there was a lot of learning that happened, but it was, you know, slightly lesser risk level because we did have a lot of shared resources.
Bobby Schessler
Right. I always think that too. I worked in fashion for so long and obviously editing and writing, but I have no idea about, like, the manufacturing, and that's just like a whole nother side of the business. So it's so interesting hearing from people like you about this.
Grace Na
Yeah, definitely. I had to learn it all from scratch.
Bobby Schessler
Totally. So when did you then decide to branch off and officially launch your brand and what was your initial vision and setting it apart from other denim brands at that, that time?
Grace Na
We launched in 2013, which was almost a year after I was dabbling into the denim world and really, you know, learning as much as I could. And at that time, there was a lot of cheap and fast fashion denim, or there was really, really, really expensive denim, or there was super basic denim, or some of the avant garde denim pieces were just really unwearable. So I did see an opportunity for opening price point premium denim that really did, you know, have great style style, great quality and amazing fit. And so that's how really pistola came to be about.
Bobby Schessler
So you have your planning, you have your buying background, and pistola is, of course, deeply data driven. I'd love to get into the nitty gritty a bit about the kind of data you use, like what informs the pieces you're going to create seasons down the line. Even just like this season, spring 2025, like, because I know everything happens so much in advance. When did you start ideating the collection? How do you decide the materials, the trends, the washes, all of that?
Grace Na
Yeah. So I'm very much, deeply data driven, and I think it is just the planner inside of me. We look at the data to really understand what worked and also equally understand what didn't work and what didn't drive the business and what was unproductive. And I think that data really guides us and creates the beginning of a roadmap for Every single season for us. So with that, generally, we work about a year and advance. So spring 2025 was something that we started working on in January 2024. And the roadmap will guide us on, you know, the business and the overarching big categories of the business. But then, you know, along with the science, the art kicks in of what is everybody really feeling and what's trending, what are we wanting to individually wear? How do we want to modernize a couple of the fits? And so it's really the art and the science that gets married together. But it starts really a little bit more with the data for us, and then I think just with the data around fits, fit, feedback, you know, performance that really helps us in perfecting the fit. If we're getting that really baggy silhouette, is getting checked out as, hey, this is way too baggy, then, you know, we're really understanding, okay, how can we really make this a little bit more feminine? How can we really ultimately modernize the fit to take the feedback that's been coming in about the fit discrepancies? So those are a couple of the key tenets of how we look at our data.
Bobby Schessler
Totally. And I imagine, too, there's a balance between all of it, like classic styles that you carry over, using the data on certain pieces from previous collections. But also, I'm assuming there is an element of taking risks and jumping on something that's trending in the market. Has there ever been a riskier piece that you've produced? And it just totally paid off without even looking at any data or anything?
Grace Na
A hundred percent. I mean, I think I was pretty bullish about the barrel leg, you know, when I first saw it on the runways or even on street stuff. And so I was creating a couple of different iterations on the different types of barrels that I would want to wear. And even going back to one of our core fits, the Grover, which is still, you know, one of our core pieces that was actually a style when we first brought out six, seven years ago. It did not perform well. And back then, the wholesalers, nobody really believed in it or really bought into it. And so when I think about the first production cut of that, we were even considering off pricing it just because it wasn't getting a reaction. But once, you know, the stores started taking it in and they were doing really well with it, we ended up quickly bringing it back, because ultimately, I think a lot of great design, you do have to go with your gut. I think today, too, with the landscape of media and really Being able to showcase a style both in socials and across different channels. We've had so much success around just risks.
Bobby Schessler
I feel like the barrel egg Jean in particular, you definitely were at the forefront of that. And I know denim trends change all the time. I still love barrel jean. What are your thoughts on the silhouette today, and how would you style your barrel jean today?
Grace Na
I think the barrel jean is so popular today, just because if you think back in the early 2000s and when the boyfriend Jean came out, it was a fit that not a lot of people had in their closet. And it was something new and a different way for a woman to be able to style her different clothing or shoes or whatnot. And I think that is like the same sentiment as the barrel. Not a lot of people had it in their closet, but the barrel has had a huge win, especially in the past year. Different ways to style the barrel. I think you can dress her up with the heel. It's actually so flattering. You have to find the right barrel for your shape, but also, too, as barrels and the bottoms get a little bit wider and a little bit more voluminous. We like to style the barrel with tops that are a little bit more form fitting or a little bit more shrunken for that nice, balanced look.
Bobby Schessler
I wear women's barrel jeans, and I love them, and I think they're flattering on me, and I think they're just great. Like it with a sneaker, a loaf, whatever.
Grace Na
Definitely. So many people have this fear around barrels, but I love seeing women saying, oh, my gosh, I thought a barrel would never work on me, but I love the fit. This is something that I wear all the time. And so, yeah, strongly encourage people to try a barrel, because I really think barrels are very flattering.
Bobby Schessler
I love it. Okay, so we spoke about the barrel. What are some of your other bestsellers like? What are some other favorites?
Grace Na
Yeah, so I would say wide legs are still pulsing very strongly. The interesting thing for wide legs is on our collection, we have the Jaden, which is a really soft palazzo pant. And then we also have the Hendricks, which we consider the perfect baggy jean. And I think even with baggies, every single brand has their own iteration and take of a baggie. For us, we want to make sure that it's not overwhelming or swallowing a woman, but it's loose and slouchy enough while still flattering. And so wide legs and baggies are still really popular. And then on top of that, we're seeing a huge comeback in straight legs legs too. And so straight legs, a fit that's been around for a really long time. But as of recent, our classic vintage Cassie is doing really well. But then our modern straight leg, the Lexi, which has a slight bow shape on the inside of the leg, is a bestseller for us as well right now.
Bobby Schessler
Are there any other denim trend predictions that you can see for the rest of the year, next year, anything that you've mentioned that you think will increase even more in popularity?
Grace Na
Yeah, I'm really excited to see that denim on denim is something that's working really well. I feel like, you know, looking at summer, it's white on white, it's light wash on light wash, but also really looking forward to seeing rinse denim and you know, the head to toe look for fall. And then I would say for upcoming, I think we're really focusing on modernizing some of the basics. So modernizing straight legs as well as the modern boot cut. I think some of these more classic fits are going to make a strong comeback for fall and holiday.
Hilary Kerr
This episode is brought to you by Ebay. Hi everyone, I'm Nikki, an Associate fashion editor here at who what Wear. I hope you're enjoying this episode with who what Wear's market director Bobby and Pastola Denim's founder Grace. I know I am. As a denim lover, I always keep a close eye on emerging trends. So I'm eager for all the expert knowledge on the subject for spring. If you're like me and find comfort and slipping into a familiar pair of well worn jeans, you also probably enjoy sourcing vintage denim. While there are many places to find them, ebay is my go to destination for pre loved styles. There's everything from iconic Levi's 501s to of course Pastola spring ready blue cut styles. The best part is that the site has become my one stop shop for all I need to create a stylish denim look. For example, there's an amazing selection of pre loved and vintage designer handbags that can elevate a simple jeans and white tee ensemble. Don't believe me? Within minutes of browsing the site yesterday, I found a handful of stunning luxury bags. The first one I came across was a bowling bag from the Row. It has a rich chocolate brown hue, the Row's minimalist branding and a polished structured shape. I also encountered Ferragamo's Hug shoulder bag. The light beige shade would look so chic paired with white jeans this spring or summer. Also, I can't forget to mention Bottega Veneta's small andiamo bag a favorite among the Huaware editorial team, I discovered a pre loved one on eBay for $300 less than what it's being sold for elsewhere. Talk about a steal. It's a classic black leather design with gold hardware in perfect condition. Now I know what you're wondering. How can you be so sure those pieces are authentic? The answer is eBay authenticity guarantee. This service offers authentication by industry experts, ensuring shoppers feel confident that their purchase is real and high quality. By simply selecting the Authenticity Guarantee filter on ebay, you can narrow your search to just the items eligible for authentication. I know I've been speaking for a while and believe me, I can go on and on about the incredible pre loved and vintage treasures I found on ebay. To save you time and get you back to the Essence episode, I've curated all my favorite finds that are perfect for styling with jeans this spring into a collection@ebay.com who what wear. Once you finish listening to the rest of this episode, be sure to check them out.
Bobby Schessler
Okay, what are your thoughts on skinny jeans making it come back? This is something that we talk about every year in fashion, I feel like, but it really seems like they're starting to come back this year. So what are your overall thoughts? Thoughts?
Grace Na
I do think it's a modern skinny that's coming back and the modern version of the skinny is it's fitted up top, it's fitted down the leg, but the leg opening is straight. So it's more of a skinny straight or a slim straight. On our site we have a style called the Brie, which is really the modern skinny. But I think that that is what's going to be really pulsing and really working and overtaking the classical skinny, which has a really small narrow leg opening.
Bobby Schessler
I am a fan of like the skinny straight jean also. Like that feels very modern. In an update for 2025, you can.
Grace Na
Wear it with boots and booties. It's just so much easier on the shoe.
Bobby Schessler
Totally. So I always feel like denim is one of those pieces that sometimes hard buying online because you don't always know the fit. Like if you don't go into the store. Do you have any advice for finding the perfect fit? Like is it really looking into the reviews and measuring in a certain way? What are some of your tips for finding the perfect pair of pistola jeans?
Grace Na
Yeah, definitely. I think first and foremost it's really just reading the copy and the caption, right. Just because a lot of companies will write whether the style is intended to fit a little looser or Not. I think another thing that I always love to do is look at what size the model is and what her height is. And I think that really guides me into being able to envision that style on me and knowing, oh, I think I'm a little bit bigger than her, so I'm going to go a size bigger. And then also, I think if you really, really are going for a relaxed style, I would say not to be concerned and worried about trying a size up. And I think also too, if a style has stretch and you want it to fit you a little bit tighter, you can try a size down. If you want a more like, you know, suck you in type of fit.
Bobby Schessler
I always say, I mean, maybe it's because I'm a writer, but it's always read, read, read the copy on these pages because there's so much information there and I feel like people miss that or just think nothing of it. But you can always find like, oh, this fits slightly looser. You might want to try this size. That's such a great tip. I love that you post a lot on the Pistola Instagram about how to wear certain types of denim. What are some of the challenges you think that people have with styling jeans and what are some of your solutions? Like, if someone wants to do something outside of jeans, a T shirt and a jacket or something, what are some other outfit formulas that you would recommend?
Grace Na
Yeah, I think these days we've been focusing a lot on style sessions on our Instagram. And, you know, that just comes from our team. Like, we always look to Instagram to get inspiration that we might have not even thought of. And so even for denim on denim, which generally we've heard feedback that that feels like a pain point or something that the woman feels a little scared to do, we've had a couple of styling sessions to showcase that it doesn't have to be the exact same wash, that you can actually style a denim on denim look that's very oversized at the top and bottom. If you just open and wear her with belts and a little heel, there's just so many different ways that you can wear it. But it just starts with having fun and being open. And hopefully our styling sessions on Instagram shows a little bit of color. It's not the only way you can wear the style, but we are aiming to show a couple of different ways that women can try to style a denim. Flats, sandals, heels, sneakers.
Bobby Schessler
Absolutely. And it's not always about like, this is it? But it's a starting point for that styling inspiration for sure. Okay, so outside of jeans, what are some other trending items that you currently have? Whether it's a sweater or jacket, you know, lifestyle products? What are some favorites right now from your customers?
Grace Na
We're always aiming to create these lifestyle ready to wear pieces that pair back perfectly to our jean. And so that's really how we start concepting our ready to wear collection. What I'm really excited about is the Alba tee. To me, I think it's the perfect tee that goes back to everything that's looser and baggier. And so we've really made her in a slightly thicker cotton material so that when you put her on, she isn't this super stretchy, thin, drapey T shirt, but she's a little bit more structured and form fitting, which I think goes so well. Back to bare legs and wide legs and baggies, and then also just our sweaters too. I think, you know, we're having a little bit more fun with our sweaters and infusing her with color and the perfect color to wear back to, you know, light wash denim or mid wash jeans. And I think also in jumpsuits, you'll see that our pipa jumpsuit, most recently, we've incorporated a barrel shape into the leg and she's been doing extremely well. So I think it's just taking some of the trends that are going on in denim and creating complementary pieces that go back to it.
Bobby Schessler
Yeah, I mean, this sweater, this like chocolate brown sweater I'm wearing is first of all, like, the quality is fantastic. It's like heavyweight, but still lightweight at the same time. You don't feel like you're suffocating in it.
Grace Na
It's.
Bobby Schessler
It's great. And with a light wash jean, I'm all about it. I never know. Actually, I want to get your thoughts. Like, this is like a baggier sweater. Personally. Do you do like a half tuck situation? Do you just let it loose? Like, what is your sweater styling with jeans vibe?
Grace Na
Yeah, I love wearing a mid rise jean with the sweater with a belt and doing a slight half tuck and exactly like you're wearing. I love that you have a white crew neck popping through. And then I think right now, belts. I haven't bought this many belts ever in my life. And I feel like that's where the mid rise jean is really trending. Our Jaden Palazzo jeans is a mid rise. Our Lexi straight is a mid rise. And I think mid rise and belts with a slight half tuck is the everyday look right now.
Bobby Schessler
Totally. Yeah. And I've Been very into, like the white crewneck tee, like, popping out of the sweater. It's kind of like a newer thing I've been doing this year. And yeah, now it's like my go to.
Grace Na
Yeah. That's why for all of our crew necks, we're trying to make it a little closer to the neck because we envision the girl being able to layer it under different, you know, sweaters and jackets and shirts.
Bobby Schessler
That's amazing because honestly, it's not that easy to find that perfect tee like that. So I have to check that out.
Grace Na
Yes.
Bobby Schessler
Okay. So also, I know you recently introduced a new fabrication called fluid. Tell me everything about this. What's the look and feel? What was the development process like? And what does this collection do that regular denim doesn't?
Grace Na
The fluid fabric really came about because we believe that women want to be comfortable. We believe, you know, just anybody wants to be comfortable in what they're wearing. You know, during high summer or high spring, when the weather is getting a little bit warmer, we wanted to offer something very different to a classic heavy, rigid, or a stretch 12 to 13 ounce denim. So the fluid fabric is made of mainly cotton and lyocell. It's extremely soft, and it's very drapey when you wear it. So we have palazzos in this. We also have balloon shaped barrel jeans that we call the perfect resort jeans in this. And ultimately, like, we have also hookup tops and jackets that we put into this that people have been calling it's their favorite airport jacket and airport top, just because it's so soft and drapey, but it still has a great wash in a denim fabrication. And so it's been very, very popular and has become like a mainstay in our collection.
Bobby Schessler
I definitely need to check that out. I feel like finding that perfect airport jacket also is not always easy because you want it to be warm but not too big. You want it to, like, fit under the seat if you have to, all that stuff.
Grace Na
So that's exactly. And you want it to be comfortable and soft and drape.
Bobby Schessler
Totally.
Grace Na
Yes.
Bobby Schessler
I know sometimes when I wear like a structured leather jacket on a plane, I'm like, what am I thinking? But okay, to wrap up. Is there anything else you can share about what's to come for you? Pistola for the rest of the year? What are you looking forward to the most? Most.
Grace Na
I'm really looking forward to us launching more into petites. It's been wildly successful for us, and very soon we're going to have a much larger assortment and collection of petites for all of the women who've been asking. We have a ton of people on wait list and we have a couple of really amazing new fits that are coming out. Whether it's an update to the barrel that you've been seeing or even just an updated straight leg silhouette and an updated boot cut silhouette. We have some amazing new fits that are going to be launching in fall that that I'm really excited to share with everyone.
Bobby Schessler
We are obviously going to be on the lookout. Fantastic. Well, thank you so much. It was so lovely chatting with you. I've written about you and have covered obviously your collection, so it's great to finally chat.
Grace Na
Thanks so much Pavia. It's so much fun today.
Bobby Schessler
A huge thank you to founder and Creative Director of Pistola Grace na. Make sure to subscribe to our show wherever you listen to podcasts so you don't miss an episode. And while you're there, I'd be so grateful if you'd rate and review us. If you have any guest suggestions or any other feedback, drop us a line at podcastooatware.com or find us on social at who It Where. See you next Wednesday on the who It Where Podcast. This episode was produced by Hilary Kerr, Summer Hammerisk, and Natalie Thurman. Our production assistant is Claire Schmidt, our editor is Ko Takasugi Chernevan. Our audio engineers are at Glen Canyon Audio and our music is by Jonathan Leah.
The Who What Wear Podcast: In-Depth Summary
Episode Title: Pistola Denim Founder Grace Na on Building a Denim Powerhouse, Embracing Data-Driven Design, and the Fate of Skinny Jeans
Release Date: April 23, 2025
Host: Bobby Schessler
Guest: Grace Na, Founder and Creative Director of Pistola Denim
In this episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Bobby Schessler welcomes Grace Na, the visionary founder and creative director behind Pistola Denim. Grace shares her passion for denim and her journey from a background in retail buying and planning to establishing one of the most respected denim brands in the industry.
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [04:05]: "Having been introduced to fashion, it was always a dream of mine to become a buyer because you had your hand in the curation, the assortment, the picking of the product."
Grace discusses the inception of Pistola Denim, highlighting the collaborative effort with her in-laws, who owned a white label denim company in Los Angeles. This partnership provided valuable resources and reduced risks as Grace ventured into denim manufacturing, a field she was initially unfamiliar with.
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [05:07]: "We were able to really utilize their resources in terms of tech, design, patterns, even just their factory sources... There was a lot of learning that happened, but it was a slightly lesser risk level because we had a lot of shared resources."
Pistola Denim prides itself on a data-driven approach to design. Grace elaborates on how data informs every aspect of their collections, from understanding what styles resonate with customers to refining fits based on feedback.
Key Points:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [07:37]: "It's really the art and the science that gets married together. But it starts really a little bit more with the data for us."
Grace delves into the resurgence of barrel jeans, drawing parallels to the boyfriend jean trend of the early 2000s. She emphasizes the versatility and flattering nature of barrel jeans when styled correctly.
Styling Tips:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [10:42]: "I strongly encourage people to try a barrel because I really think barrels are very flattering."
Grace highlights Pistola's top-selling styles, including wide-leg and straight-leg jeans. She also shares her predictions for upcoming denim trends, such as denim-on-denim looks and the modernization of classic fits like straight legs and boot cuts.
Best Sellers:
Trend Predictions:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [13:04]: "We're really focusing on modernizing some of the basics. So modernizing straight legs as well as the modern boot cut are going to make a strong comeback."
Addressing the perennial debate over skinny jeans, Grace introduces Pistola's take on the "modern skinny." This style features a fitted upper and lower leg with a straight leg opening, offering a contemporary twist that appeals to today’s fashion landscape.
Styling Advice:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [16:06]: "The modern version of the skinny is fitted up top, fitted down the leg, but the leg opening is straight. So it's more of a skinny straight or a slim straight."
Grace provides valuable insights for customers shopping for jeans online, emphasizing the importance of reading product descriptions, understanding model measurements, and considering personal fit preferences. She advises customers to use these details to make informed sizing decisions, ensuring a better fit and overall satisfaction.
Tips for Buyers:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [17:08]: "Look at what size the model is and what her height is. That really guides me into being able to envision that style on me."
Beyond denim, Pistola offers a range of lifestyle-ready pieces that complement their jeans. Grace discusses the introduction of the "Alba tee" and the innovative "fluid" fabric, which prioritizes comfort without compromising on style.
Featured Items:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [22:19]: "The fluid fabric is made of mainly cotton and lyocell. It's extremely soft, and it's very drapey when you wear it."
Grace concludes by sharing exciting upcoming initiatives, including an expanded petite collection and the launch of new fits tailored to diverse body types. These efforts aim to cater to a broader audience and continue Pistola's tradition of blending style with functionality.
Future Launches:
Notable Quote:
Grace Na [23:42]: "We have a ton of people on the waitlist and a couple of really amazing new fits that are coming out."
This episode offers a comprehensive look into Pistola Denim's success story, driven by Grace Na's expertise and a steadfast commitment to data-driven design. From embracing denim trends to expanding their product range, Pistola Denim remains a formidable player in the fashion industry, continually adapting to meet the evolving needs of its customers.
Additional Notes: