The Who What Wear Podcast: Episode Summary

Title: SNL Costume Designer Tom Broecker on How He Outfits an Entire Show in Three Days, Thriving in Creative Chaos, and the 50th Anniversary Special
Host: Hilary Kerr
Guest: Tom Broecker, Costume Designer for Saturday Night Live
Release Date: May 21, 2025

Introduction

In this captivating episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Hilary Kerr engages in an in-depth conversation with Tom Broecker, the legendary costume designer behind Saturday Night Live (SNL). With over three decades of experience, Tom shares his journey, the intricate process of designing costumes for a live sketch show, the challenges of managing a vast costume archive, and his reflections on the show's monumental 50th-anniversary celebration.

Early Career and Path to Costume Design (03:08 - 07:45)

Tom Broecker recounts his childhood aspirations, alternating between dreams of becoming a fashion designer and a child psychiatrist. Influenced by a book titled The Book About Me during his early years, he expressed an interest in fashion, albeit without a clear understanding of the profession. Growing up in Indiana, his exposure to fashion was limited largely to magazine pictures, which didn't initially cement his desire to pursue it.

In high school, societal expectations steered him towards more conventional careers like law or medicine. However, his passion for understanding how individuals present themselves persisted, especially in the context of acting. This fascination led him to the multifaceted world of costume design—a field that seamlessly blends performance, history, language, art, and psychology. Tom notes, “The idea, ultimately, of going into costumes was truly a way to combine everything I lumped into one job.”

Joining SNL and Building a Family (08:03 - 10:00)

Tom's journey with SNL began in 1986 when he joined as a production assistant, thanks to a connection with Melina, a friend from college. At the age of 25, he found himself amidst iconic figures like Dana, Phil, Kevin Nealon, Jan Hooks, and Victoria. Reflecting on his early days, Tom describes SNL as feeling like “the beginning part of a home,” a sentiment that has endured over the years. He emphasizes the familial bonds formed within the high-pressure environment, stating, “The thing about working here, it's super hard, but the amount of family quality that you feel with the people you work with... it really does make it hard to leave.”

The High-Speed World of SNL Costumery (10:00 - 22:20)

Designing costumes for SNL is likened to emergency surgery by Tom, highlighting the show's need for rapid problem-solving and adaptability. Each sketch on SNL is treated as a standalone "five-minute movie," often requiring vastly different costumes within the span of a single episode. Tom elaborates on the meticulous weekly process:

1. Wednesday Read-Through: The team reviews approximately 40 sketches, making initial notes and selecting the top candidates for production.
2. Thursday Breakdown: Detailed discussions and planning commence, involving sourcing specific garments from various stores or suppliers, sometimes necessitating last-minute acquisitions.

Tom shares a memorable instance where, for a sketch featuring Lin-Manuel Miranda's character from Hamilton, his team had to secure the exact costume on the night of the show. “We put a PA in a car and sent them an hour and a half north to a person, handed them the costume they went back into the car, and Lyn had a costume to wear Saturday night.”

This episode underscores the relentless pace and resourcefulness required in SNL’s costume department, where having an extensive network and quick access to diverse fashion outlets is paramount.

Creativity and Resourcefulness in Costume Design (16:20 - 22:20)

Tom emphasizes the importance of creativity and an expansive knowledge base in costume design. He humorously acknowledges the chaotic nature of his workspace but explains that it’s a strategic system allowing for quick retrieval of needed items. “I do a lot of collecting while I'm out. I'm a true believer, particularly with a consignment store... when you see it, it means you need to see it and buy it.”

The collaboration with skilled artisans on his team allows SNL to create unique and memorable costumes, such as the intricate iceberg outfit worn by Bowen Yang. Tom describes the process: “We gave her [a team member] a hacksaw and an electric saw and a two by two piece of styrofoam and said, 'we're thinking of something like this.' Two hours later, she had created a lightweight foam model.”

The 50th Anniversary Special and Costume Archive (25:48 - 31:42)

Celebrating SNL's 50th anniversary presented Tom with the opportunity to delve into the show's extensive costume archives. He navigated the challenge of retrieving and preserving original costumes, including rare pieces like the Wild and Crazy Guys outfits and Gilda's iconic bathing suit worn alongside Carrie Fisher. Tom remarks on the sentimental value and historical significance of these items: “That bathing suit... it's an amazing artifact worn by one of the original people who had such an impact on so many young female comedians.”

The archival process ensures that pivotal costumes are preserved for future reference and special occasions. Tom explains that scented pieces are photographed, described, and stored systematically, with select items also being reproduced using printed fabrics to maintain the integrity of original designs.

Influence of Pop Culture and Current Events (31:42 - 32:13)

Tom emphasizes the necessity for the costume team to stay attuned to current pop culture and societal trends to keep SNL relevant and timely. "The show is of the minute. And so you have to know the referencing of the minute," he states. This vigilance allows the team to create costumes that resonate with contemporary audiences and reflect ongoing cultural dialogues.

Reflections on a Career at SNL and Future Outlook (32:57 - 38:16)

As the conversation draws to a close, Tom reflects on the enduring appeal of his role at SNL. He appreciates the constant challenge and creative stimulation the job offers, likening it to a perpetual puzzle that never ceases to engage his problem-solving skills. “I think you never look at anything the same way twice,” he muses, highlighting the endless opportunities for innovation within costume design.

Tom also shares heartfelt moments from the 50th anniversary celebrations, noting the importance of recognizing the specialness of such milestones. “Laughter is a really powerful and necessary” aspect of life and performance, underscoring the profound impact that SNL has on both its cast and audience.

Conclusion

Tom Broecker’s tenure at Saturday Night Live exemplifies the fusion of creativity, adaptability, and dedication required to sustain a live sketch show’s dynamic aesthetic. His insights reveal the behind-the-scenes artistry that brings iconic characters and memorable performances to life each week. This episode offers a rare glimpse into the world of costume design at one of television’s most enduring institutions, celebrating both its rich history and its vibrant present.

Notable Quotes

• Tom Broecker [03:28]: “The idea, ultimately, of going into costumes was truly a way to combine everything I lumped into one job.”

• Tom Broecker [08:11]: “It really did feel like the beginning part of a home.”

• Tom Broecker [10:04]: “Entertainment triage.”

• Tom Broecker [16:40]: “Costume designers have to be resourceful.”

• Tom Broecker [17:26]: “I'm a little bit of a Mad Hatter in that sort of way. Or some might say a hoarder.”

• Tom Broecker [35:32]: “The job of the costume designer is helping the actor realize their idea. That is always one of the greatest moments.”

• Tom Broecker [35:50]: “It's incredibly frustrating sometimes. It's incredibly challenging. But the puzzle and the possibility.”

Attribution:
This summary is based on the transcript provided from The Who What Wear Podcast episode featuring Tom Broecker, released on May 21, 2025.