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Kat Collings
Welcome to the who what Where? Podcast, your direct line to the designers, stylists, beauty experts, editors and tastemakers who are shaping the ever evolving world of fashion. I'm who what Where? Editor in Chief Kat Collings, and today I'm sitting down with who what Where Senior editor Anna Laplaca to discuss her thoughtful, impeccably researched State of Style story that went live on who what Where a few days ago. For those who are not familiar, Anna does a story like this at the end of each year. I look forward to it all year long. And in the story, she investigates the cultural implications behind why certain things are trending over others. At this moment in time, we're talking about the aesthetic that defined 2024, the season's hot ticket items, the surprising return of boho, and what larger movements like a return to maximalism and luxury point to in our society. Anna's story is linked in the episode description, and as an added bonus, you'll also find a link to YouTube where you can watch this episode. It's all coming up on who what where.
Anna Laplaca
Hi Anna. Welcome back to the show.
Hi Kat. Thank you so much. It's so exciting to be back.
Well, we're talking about something fun today, which is the 2024 edition of your really thoughtful story that went live a couple days ago called the State of Style. And for anyone who's not familiar, let's get them a little download about what this story is about.
Yeah, so this story is near and dear to my heart, but for anyone who's not familiar, the state of Style is a story that I do towards the end of each year, and it's essentially our version of a state of the Union where I zoom out and look at why certain things are trending over others and why they're bubbling up again at this exact moment in time. So it's easy to think of fashion trends as just articles of clothing that we choose to wear, but I think a lot of people know that the reality is that trends are something that our team of fashion editors doesn't just get together to invent. There are so many factors that affect what's in style, from politics and economics all the way to pop culture. So this piece will really aim to bring some context into why we're wearing and shopping for the things that we are, and why certain items, brands, and aesthetics this year are happening over others and what it all means.
Yeah, I love that because I feel like for a few years now, we've had so many micro trends. Right. And little things bubble. Basically. If you want to be somebody who's like, you know, you don't try every single little trend and you're not going to spend money on every single little thing, but you want a download of the big shifts that are happening in fashion, I think this is your story so that you can make sure, like, your wardrobe, you know, remains relevant over time.
Totally.
So you obviously follow trends closely on a daily basis, but I'm curious how you want to about sort of narrowing in on the macro trends and the big fashion shifts of 2024 to focus on. What resources did you tap?
Yeah, I tapped a few experts here, several experts, actually, in the data space, which is really fascinating. So the first one is data, but Make It Fashion, which many of you have probably heard of because it is such an incredible Instagram account that is just dedicated to providing data about fashion trends, but via this very fun digestible meme format. And she has become such a viral leader in the space over the past year or so. The founder, Maday, has a background in computer science, but is also a fashion girl through and through, so it makes her page especially relatable. And she pulled some great data for us. For this piece, I also chatted with the team behind List. Obviously, they are a massive shopping platform, so they have tons of data and insights to share, and they are such an amazing resource. In particular, though, I love what they do each quarter where they put out something called the List Index, which is essentially a very thorough report that goes through the top 20 brands and the top 10 items of the past three months. And they really aggregate that based on things like searches, clicks and order volume. So it's just such a special deep dive into what's actually happening on the back end of things. Because I know we talk a lot about what we're predicting and seeing, so it's nice to have that data back it up.
Kat Collings
Right.
Anna Laplaca
Because as fashion editors, we are experts in the space, but a lot of trends can sort of feel like a feeling or vibe that we caught on. So I love that you have the data piece of this to really back it up and show what like real people are actually like buying and shopping and what they're interested in. So I know in a lot of conversations recently, it seems like people are excited about the direction that fashion is going in as a whole. Sort of where we spent our time in the minimalism, quiet luxury world for quite a bit. And I feel like there's room for a little more personality, a little more experimentation and personal style coming through. But I'm curious if that was reflected in your findings.
Yes. So you're very spot on. Think one of the main overall style shifts that we're noticing is the move towards individualism. And it's sort of as a response to this era that we were in over the past few years of hyper minimalism and really stark looks that leaned on neutrality and logo less designs and really sort of discreet dressing. And so what we're noticing now is that we're stepping into this era of, like I said, individualism. And it's really sort of an explosion of personal style. Our assistant shopping editor, Anna Escalante wrote a wonderful piece on this topic where she really dove into what personal style looks like in the age of the algorithm that was published earlier this year. But she really honed in on this sort of counter movement that's happening in response to this overall feeling of sameness that we've seen play out over social media and specifically because of algorithms. So I think there's a lot of factors at play, but definitely a move more towards individualism and really honing in on what your personal style means. There's a number of items and sort of examples that I want to point to for this that have happened already this year. And obviously the big one is the proliferation of bag charms, as we've noticed with a lot of celebrities and fashion people sort of accessorizing their handbags. Coach has been a major player in that. I think a lot of the fashion girls today are taking into from the way that Jane Birkin herself used to wear her own Birkin and she used to use all of these accessories, and she sort of would use the bag as a canvas for her own self expression. And I think that sort of ethos and energy is really playing out today. And I think that these bag charms are really a fun and honestly quick way to really just express yourself and individualize your look without having to buy an entire new wardrobe. You can really do it with anything in your closet.
Right. Because you can really use these charms almost like as a little identity marker. Right. Like if you could have one from your hometown or maybe your favorite snack or whatever it is. There's a million ways. And I know our editors have been all over it with the bag charms.
Definitely. It's funny too, because I've seen some girls on TikTok actually going to their local Home Depots and buying carabiners and rock climbing ropes and diying their own. So not only is it a way to express who you are and your personal identity, but it's also a fun, crafty activity that you can do without even having to go and buy an actual charm.
I'm curious if there are any other accessory moments happening that are sort of intersecting with this wave of individualism.
Yes, there's a few more things happening as well. I've been noticing the way that people are styling their sneakers in particular, which is sort of a fun item. We haven't seen a lot of personalization in. In a while. And I'm noticing how some folks are, like, replacing the laces with either different colored laces or multicolored or fabrics that aren't necessarily even lace, like a piece of ribbon or what have you, even adding charms to the laces themselves, like, that's a very fun one. And then I think it would be remiss not to mention the wave of these ironic L.L. bean boat and totes. It really exploded last year and in years prior. But I think it's something that absolutely goes hand in hand with this idea of customization and really just like, showing your identity, your personality through what you're wearing. So, you know, everyone getting their embroidery done, whether it be like their initials or some buzzy Internet phrase of the moment, I think that's. It's a very fun way to go.
About it as well. Absolutely. I saw Tippi is coming out too, with a collaboration with L.L. bean, a tote that has kind of a Prada reminiscent belt around it.
Yes.
So, you know, we're still in the L.L. bean Cool Tote era for sure.
Yeah.
Are there any other accessory trends we should hit on yes.
So there's another section in this story that I want to touch on and it's something I'm calling little luxuries. And it's essentially the emergence of this whole category in the luxury space that we're noticing. And it's made up of all of smaller ticket items. So like I mentioned, the bag charms. Also I would add to this pillbox hats and these very classic elegant hats, even swim caps like we saw on the runways, these beautiful sculptural ponytail cuffs that brands like Lee Studio and Lelet are producing right now. I would even add a lot of the statement belts and 80s inspired earrings that are happening. I think this category as a whole can really come down to a way for people to invest in either a luxury brand that they see as aspirational or sort of a way that they can purchase something in the luxury space without having to make a huge investment. And it's interesting because there's this economic theory called the lipstick effect. And it's essentially this theory that in an economic downturn, consumers spend more on smaller and more affordable luxury items than they do on these larger investment investment purchases. So I'm no economist, but I do think what's happening in the fashion space definitely mirrors that idea. And I think these little items are a fun way to kind of add some spice to your look and feel like you are buying something that feels a little bit special without having to make a huge investment purchase.
Yeah, absolutely. And I, I like the idea that like you can kind of take whatever more classic pieces you have in your closet and then add a little something fresh with these accessories and feel like you're know, have your wardrobe refresh for the season without having to buy a lot. Okay, so quiet luxury out. Is there a new aesthetic that you're seeing fill the gap here?
Yes. So it's interesting because I'm not sure that quiet luxury is completely out out. And what I'm about to say next goes very much hand in hand with it. But I think if last year was defined by the quiet luxury buzzword, then I think we're going to look back and see that 2024 is going to be defined by what we're calling the old money aesthetic. And it's really nuanced. So old money, I would say, is more about signaling this entire lifestyle of wealth rather than just owning a one off luxury buy. Like when I think of the term quiet luxury, I think of the Rose Margaux bag, which is just so famous in its own right without having to have a logo or very obvious design element. It's sort of if you know, you know. But on the flip side, this old money aesthetic is a bit more obvious without being too flashy. It's a bit like, let's say, you know, wearing a pair of riding boots. That might signal that you grew up horseback riding. Or the boat shoe. So Miu Miu did a boat shoe. I think we're seeing the rise in classic brands, Xperi coming back. And it's funny because maybe you have never been on a yacht, but it's this idea of dressing as if you're part of this upper echelon of society, if that makes sense.
Okay, so basically we're still obsessed with status symbols. They just are kind of morphing.
Exactly. I did want to call out that GQ wrote this great piece on why Gen Z specifically is obsessing over this idea of old money where you have even more references to Carolyn Bissette Kennedy and JFK Jr. S style. There's a biopic that was just announced to be produced which is really exciting about their life. But I think other reference points would be Saltburn and Succession. There's no doubt how huge of an impact that show has had on style.
Yeah, absolutely. Okay, tell me more. What other aesthetics are happening?
So there is a new aesthetic that we were noticing based on what went on on the spring 2025 runways. And it's a trend we're calling the modern bourgeoisie. And it sort of goes hand in hand with this. But the trend is really all about these ornate, lavish and really opulent clothing items and really putting them together in this way that is just so visually appealing. And it really is the antithesis of this idea of minimalism that we've seen. So some of the designers who are at the forefront of this are Valentino, under the new creative direction of Alessandro Michele, which is very exciting. Therese Van Noten did this as well as Saint Laurent proposed a number of looks that had this really opulent energy. And for us, it's being done in a very 80s coded way where you have really strong shouldered jackets and these ruffled skirts and sort of an explosion of prints and colors really all combined throughout the same look. And so one theory could be that in the 80s there was a very noteworthy recession and then inflation that really defined the early 80s. So if we're talking about 80s fashion and really that era of excess and more is more, I think you could probably draw a through line to today with the inflation that's happening and what is going on in the background. Of our day to day lives. I am no economist, but it's easy to see that those two things are being mirrored right now. And I think that that's really fascinating. So I think we're about to see a huge wave of these, like bright colors and patterns and really louder ways of dressing. Fair warning.
I'm excited about that. That sounds fun. Why not?
It feels fresh. It does feel like it's being done in an exciting way.
Okay, so I feel like we have a good download on some of the big picture aesthetics. What about narrowing down to those hot ticket items or styles that people are gravitating towards to signify the wealth or the status that you mentioned before?
Yeah, absolutely. So I think this comes with no surprise, but barn coats are a huge part of of this idea of signaling wealth and status and are a trend that is absolutely defining fall style right now. So according to List actually searches for barn coats have been up a whopping 225% this quarter, which is nuts for a jacket that we really haven't seen in pop culture in a really long time. In particular, they called out the Totem country jacket as being one of their top 10 products for the quarter. So this is really something that we're seeing at the luxury level and also at the affordable level. So it's really infiltrated the market.
Yeah, I feel like it's been called out as the jacket of the season for sure. Like there's not really any question. And the more affordable brands have been all over that and it's always interesting. I feel like it does kind of tie into the lifestyle bit of it. It's like a barn jacket is like you maybe have some land that you're romping around in your barn coat or at least like a country house or something that kind of fits into that lifestyle leisure piece of it.
Yeah, absolutely. Like it is happening because it's a cute piece, but at the same time it's a traditionally English jacket. Right. So it kind of represents like living on an estate, maybe having even a farm.
Right, okay. What about other brands?
Yeah, I think, you know, Loro Piana is a huge one. And although that certainly falls within the category of quiet luxury, what we're seeing now falls in line with this as well. Where it's a brand that Gen Z is now becoming hyper aware of, in no small part because of the Tiktoker, the Staad guy, who I think has some hilarious videos, but also because there's some key items that are emerging from the brand that we're Just kind of seeing, like, on the mainstream level. So a couple examples. The Rebecca flats, which are a really beautiful, like, elongated, pointed toe flat that are beloved by Elsa Hosk and Jasmine Tookis. And we're also seeing lots and lots of iterations on those in the affordable market. And then I would also add on to that the L19 bag, which is a vanity case style pochette that's definitely having its viral moment online, which is, you know, a bit ironic because it's a pretty discreet bag and it's silhouette, but it's something that if you have it, you know what it is. If you see it on the street, you know exactly what it is. So I think Laura Piano is a huge one. And then I would definitely also add Ralph Lauren to this list who represents everything Americana, equestrian, even in terms of sports, they had a huge impact in the tennis world this year, you know, with activations at Wimbledon and even at the Olympics. And so list in their index actually reported 151% spike in engagement with the brand this quarter. And I think even beyond that, their massive Runway show that they hosted out in the Hamptons that you went to, Kat, it just exemplifies everything that the Ralph Lauren brand stands for and what it represents.
Yeah. And I feel like for a while, they're sort of like equestrian embroidered logo, like hats and things have been popular. They come in a million colors. I'm also curious what designers are leading the way for the more maximalist era that you say is coming.
Yeah, definitely. So in terms of what we're seeing on the runways for spring 25, I think there's a few key leaders in this space. So first, I would call out Saint Laurent, because almost half of that entire Runway was dedicated to looks that had a lot of these, like, brocade jackets and ruffled satin skirts and like, these really beautiful, like, high neck lace tops that were layered underneath the jackets. I mean, they were done in this beautiful, beautiful color range of, like, gemstone hues. So I think given how popular Saint Laurent is in the celebrity world, there's so many names that we're constantly reporting on at who, what wear that are Saint Laurent girls like Zoe Kravitz, Laura Harrier, Bella Hadid. I just think it's only a matter of time until we see one of them in one of these more maximalist looks. And I'm very excited to see who it will be first and how they'll wear it.
Yeah, I feel like Saint Laurent does the 80s well.
Yeah, absolutely. And then I would also add a Couple more designers onto that. So Loewe, you know, who's always known for doing these really, like, dramatic, playful silhouettes, but this season leaned into these sculptural jackets and this really, like, opulent, mother of pearl fabrication that was sort of iridescent. I think those fabrics and tones will really lead the way in terms of how people are going to embrace this maximalist vibe next year and next season. And then, of course, Therese Van Noten, who's always known for their prints and their colors, I think, for years have been really a leader in that space. But so it's kind of cool to see them set the stage for maximalism. And this season, you know, that sort of played out through these tapestry printed jackets and really embellished pencil skirts. And so it's something that we're calling, like, a new opulence. And I think that will sort of be the evolution also of this era of elegance that we've been talking about all year, which has really been defined by refined silhouettes. And I think as we, like, move into next year, it'll be a lot more vivid and loud.
Yeah, I feel like dries of this list you shared is, like, the fashion person's pick. It's like, outside of the industry, you might not have that brand on your radar in a super large way, but I feel like people who are in it are all in.
Yeah, definitely a hot ticket. 1.
We also have to talk about the return of Boho. Everywhere we look, there's another celebrity in this full Chloe ruffled confection. And I think this movement was surprising to a lot of people because a lot of people think of boho as part of that, like, early mid-2000s. It looks a little different this time, but can you break down, like, how this unfolded and is it real? I don't know. It's so centered on Chloe too. Like, is this part of a wider movement, or is this just a sort of re emergence of Chloe?
Yeah, it's such a good question. I think there's no doubt that Chloe is the main driver behind everything boho that we're seeing return. I mean, the new creative director, Shamina Kamali, came in, and I believe her first season was for fall 2024. And it really just created this entire paradigm shift, because all of a sudden, she's presenting these beautiful looks with ruffled chiffon and cool girl clogs, and they're pieces that we really have almost seen as being outdated up until, like, very recently. So I would say huge, huge amount of credit goes to her and everything that she's been doing at the house. And I think it really originated on that Runway, actually, because there's this image of all of the celebrities who are sitting front row, and it was Sienna Miller and all of these classic Chloe girls all lined up and they're wearing the same platformed clog shoes. And I think it was just an image that really caught on and sort of had its moment on the Internet for a few days after the show. And then in the months after we saw it play out on the celebrity front, Daisy Edgar Jones wore a number of the looks for her press tour for the movie Twisters. And then it was Sydney Sweeney who wore a look and Sienna Miller again. And so I think people started to see these looks translated onto the street. And then I think from there, it really just exploded on the market. I mean, all of these more affordable retailers like Mango and Zara doing, you know, these, like, ruffled chiffon tops and dresses and selling them. Like, actually these pieces were selling out at lightning speed. I don't think I could have predicted that. But it really just goes to show sort of the impact that this Chloe girl, so to speak, has had on fashion. I would also call out Hermes. They have always had this equestrian aesthetic to them, but in recent seasons have leaned into the clogs as well, with really cool iterations. And then, of course, Isabel Marant, who has done this for quite a while as well.
Yeah, absolutely. I think the, like, you mentioned, the celebrity stylist co signing kind of completes the picture.
Yeah, absolutely. I think just the sheer amount of celebrity looks that we've seen are what went on to drive this, because it's so hard to translate something from the Runway. But I think that street style blitz, I think, is really what sparked it. And, you know, they all looked so good. I think everyone just wanted to embrace that.
Yeah, absolutely. And boho style, obviously is not new. We had an era of it in our lifetime. But then even if you go further back, it has origins that are full of history and meaning. And. And I'm curious what you think the return of boho, whether there's any parallels that you see.
Yeah, I think that there's no doubt that the 60s are the era that is most known for boho style. I mean, it's really tied with this moment of political resistance and this countercultural movement that was happening. It was a youth led movement that obviously was against the war in Vietnam. But I think what's interesting is that even today, we're seeing the origins of similar movements and they're being led by Gen Z. So it really kind of mirrors that where like the youth are being mobilized and they are really taking on activist roles in society. So it really feels like there's a lot of that same type of energy that's happening right now. And so although, like we mentioned, boho was a bit surprising from a fashion editor perspective, I think when you look at some of these parallels, it really isn't all that surprising. A lot of this free spirited, anti establishment energy, it's a very similar energy. It's a similar through line. And so these like, codes of boho style of like really flowy silhouettes, really sheer sort of like layered fabrics, long pendant necklaces, the chunkier clog shoes, clog sandals, and all of those pieces really come together to create this really nice parallel into what was happening then.
You're going deep today, which I adore.
Yes.
And it's the beauty of this state of style piece, which is just adding a lot of context to these things that otherwise just seem like they're about fashion. On the other end of the spectrum from everything that is boho with the ruffles and the romance, is the Bratz summer that we had. Right. Like, we can't talk about 2024 fashion without mentioning that, you know, huge revival in sort of club attire and embracing sort of messiness, undone ness. And obviously the poster girl of it all is Charlie xcx. I'd love to hear your take on why you think this album and aesthetic resonated and tell us about that.
Yeah, of course. I mean, like you said, it is the Brat summer, if not the brat year. Charlie is absolutely at the forefront of everything pop culture right now. And I just absolutely love what she's doing because she's an artist that has been around for quite some time. So she's not necessarily new, but she's defining everything cool in pop culture at the moment. So what does this all mean? I think the idea behind the Brat album is really about what it means to be a club girl, a club person, somebody who goes out on the weekends, maybe even goes to raves, like, stays up all night. And it's this idea of just like hedonism and anti conservativism, if that makes sense, just in terms of aesthetics and style. And so, like, a lot of people actually dressed up as Charli XCX for Halloween. So I'm thinking of like, okay, what is her outfit combination that she's most known for? And it's really like a white ribbed tank Top, super simple. And a tiny, like leather miniskirt. And maybe there's like some ripped tights and a pair of heels that are far too impractical for the night that you're about to have, but you're gonna wear them anyway. And so I think it's really just this return to like going out. This could be a stretch, but it's been quite a few years since the pandemic. But I think this is like a delayed post pandemic moment where we're like, oh, like we're outside, like we're going places.
Kat Collings
Yeah.
Anna Laplaca
I feel like we were waiting for that roaring twenties moment that everybody was talking about at the post pandemic and it finally arrived. It's also an issue. Interesting sort of antidote to what we were mentioning, like the quiet luxury thing. I think another thing that kind of goes hand in hand with that is like the clean girl aesthetic.
Yes, definitely.
That girl has like a 10 step skincare routine, is going to bed at 9pm with her hair and a hair mask. And this brat summer or brat fall brat year is the completely opposite reaction to that.
Yeah, exactly. You know, your hair might be a little bit tangled and you probably didn't sit down to do your makeup for an hour. You probably just smudged some eyeliner on and called it a day because you're gonna go out and probably mess it all up anyway. So I think it's just this idea of rebellion at the end of the day. Right. And really pushing against all of these structured norms. And that kind of goes back to what we were saying with boho in the 60s and just like kind of a countercultural vibe that's happening.
Yeah, absolutely. So in last year's State of Style 2023, you called out shapes and silhouettes that have been dominating the early 2000 and twenties. Puddle pants, oversized bags, mid and low rise denim, maxi hemlines. Has anything shifted in those areas? Because this is honestly one of my favorite sections of the State of Style, because I think these also move slower, which I like.
Yeah, and that's kind of the point too, right. Is like, we don't really want to say, like, okay, this thing's out, you have to go buy a new version of it, like every single season, every single year. Right. Like, like trends move quickly, but I think at the macro level things really do move like a lot slower. I think traditionally things are said to move at a 20 year cycle, which today, who knows if that is really true anymore, just given social media. But compared to what I reported on last year, I would say that a lot of the shapes and silhouettes are definitely still relevant. I talked about the rise of big, slouchy shoulder bags and, you know, sure enough, this year also saw the rise of a number of IT bags, like the Coach Brooklyn bag that is hugely popular, and then also this new Saint Laurent Y bag that has the same slouchy, oversized energy where you just throw all your stuff in for the day and sling it over your shoulder and go. So it's really this, like, practical bag. It's kind of refreshing to see that also play out because it is so, like, pragmatic.
Like, right. Fashion and function. Who would have thought?
I know we love to see it, so it's nice to see some of those same shapes sticking around. But I will say there's one very noticeable shift that I'm seeing and that is a little bit away from these puddle pants and baggy jeans and trousers that I reported on last year. Of course, they're definitely still going to be around. But I think looking ahead to what will happen next and what's right around the bend is this movement towards more fitted silhouettes. So slim fitting jeans, like the really popular Kate Danielle jeans that are more of like a cigarette style cigarette trousers. You know, Altuzara and Kate right now are doing some very chic high water trousers that have a bit of a retro feel to them with the same shape. And then ahead towards spring 25, you have designers like Proenza, Schooler and Tibby experimenting with legging layering. So that's kind of coming around the bend whether we like it or not. But it was done in a really chic way. Either styled underneath a long midi dress, a long coat, or at Tippi, it was styled underneath a pair of Bermuda shorts. So it's not necessarily just a standalone legging, although it was at Prada. So I guess it's a choose your own adventure there.
I'm seeing this too, the slimmer silhouette on the leg. And I feel like the word skinny jeans, you know, haunts everybody and elicits really intense reactions. But for me, at least, I plan to kind of dive into this with, like you said, like a skinny pant and. Or a legging especially. I love the layered look that you referenced. At Tippi, it was so good. Maybe the jeans, maybe it's just because I'm getting older, but I'm like, maybe just like a relaxed fit is fine. It doesn't need to be baggy, it doesn't need to be super tight. Like, like, can we just stick with this and like, call it good for a few years.
Yeah. I mean, hey, I'm with you. I think that's the point too, right? Like, these more relaxed fit, straight styles are definitely what we'll be sticking around. If I had to guess, I would say that like the ultra, ultra baggy will probably cycle out. But like you said, my take on this is not necessarily through like a really slim jean, but a really slim fitting trouser is something I'm actually very excited to style again. Surprisingly, I have a pair from this brand, Lafayette 148, that I absolutely love. And I've influenced a few of the girls on our team to buy them too.
Occupational hazard, I guess.
Exactly. So I think that's something that we'll be seeing very soon.
I like it. So, to sort of wrap this up, I'm curious if there's anything else we should know about where fashion's headed in 2025. Just like the big picture.
Yes. So I would say if there's any main takeaway from all of this, there are two huge themes that I think are really going to play out more than any of the others. And these are sort of my two Cliff Notes that I'll leave you with. So the first one is, like we mentioned, this explosion of personalization. So anything from bag charms and all of these little beaded accessories that are really cute. I would even add on some of these phone charms that are like the wristlets as well as some of the DIY sneakers with different laces and even like lace charms added onto them, as well as those L.L. bean boat and Totes with some of the fun personalized embroidery. So I think we'll really see people lean into self expression as a way to sort of differentiate themselves from the rest of the pack and express their personality.
I love that. Okay, and then what's the second?
Okay, the second one, like we mentioned is this maximalism era that I think will come back in a huge way. And I think like we mentioned, this will be defined by an explosion of just like colors and prints, but done in a really 80s coded way. And so you'll see a lot of these like strong shouldered jackets, but done in a gemstone color and maybe with like a really pretty iridescent print, you know, over top, or maybe it will be done in a ruffled lace top or whatnot. And so I think we'll really see that play out in not just colors, but also sort of like really beautiful fabrications and this just overall sense of opulence. So that is coming down the pipeline as well. Opulence, maximalism, and then this idea of personalization and self expression.
So basically, it's like be yourself and be loud.
Exactly.
Well, it sounds like it's going to be a fun season year. Style shift ahead of us. That. That feels playful and go for it energy, which I'm excited about, so I'd love to hear it.
Yeah, I'm excited. I think we haven't had this energy in fashion in a while, and there's a lot of ways to go about it, so there's a lot to kind of hang on to.
And I know us editors are always being like, oh, who makes that? And, like, vibing off of each other's clothes before we go. Actually, I have to know who makes your jacket, because I've been looking at it for 30 minutes now.
Thank you. I'm really excited about this. I just ordered it off of ebay, but it is this 80s style from Escada, and it has this cool, like, contrast piping detail and these really beautiful silver buttons. So it just feels a little bit special. I'm wearing it casually with a white tank and jeans right now, but excited to dress it up with, like, a skirt for holiday party season. And then I actually just ordered one of my dream dresses that I've been eyeing for a long, long time. It's this strapless Kate number with an upside down scoop neckline.
I know that neckline.
Yes. It's a really good one. I actually have it in the top version in a snake print. So excited to get my hands on the LBD version of it. And I know I'll be wearing that for years and years to come.
Amazing. I also feel like Escada is such a good brand to search for for vintage 80s stuff because that was such a heyday for them and ebay is like just a treasure trove of vintage finds.
There's so much on there. Yeah, it's good to know those original 80s brands. There's such a wealth of stock on ebay, and you're gonna find, like, the OG from that era.
Well, wear it well. It looks fabulous from what I can see from your shoulders up.
Thank you.
Thanks, Anna, so much for joining us today. It was a treat to talk, as always.
Thanks so much, Kat.
A huge thank you to who, but where?
Kat Collings
Senior fashion editor Anna Laplaca. Make sure to subscribe to our show wherever you listen to podcasts so you don't miss an episode. And while you're there, I'd also be so grateful if you'd rate and review us. If you have guest suggestions or any other feedback, drop us a line@podcasthwhatware.com or you can find us on SocialWhatWear. See you next Wednesday on the who what Where Podcast. This episode was produced by Hilary Kerr, Summer Hay Cameras and Natalie Thurman. Our production assistant is Claire Schmidt. Our editor is Ko Takasugi Chernovin. Our audio engineers are at Glen Canyon Audio and our music is by Jonathan Leahy.
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The Who What Wear Podcast: The State of Style in 2024 with Senior Fashion Editor Anna LaPlaca
Release Date: November 13, 2024
In this insightful episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Kat Collings sits down with Senior Fashion Editor Anna LaPlaca to delve into the "State of Style" for 2024. Anna's meticulously researched analysis offers a comprehensive look at the prevailing fashion trends, the cultural underpinnings influencing these shifts, and the broader societal movements shaping the industry. This episode serves as an essential guide for fashion enthusiasts looking to stay ahead of the curve.
Anna LaPlaca introduces the concept of the "State of Style," likening it to a "state of the Union" for fashion. This annual review examines why certain trends gain prominence over others, considering factors from politics and economics to pop culture.
Notable Quote:
"Trends are something that our team of fashion editors doesn't just get together to invent. There are so many factors that affect what's in style, from politics and economics all the way to pop culture."
— Anna LaPlaca [02:55]
One of the standout themes of 2024 is the shift towards individualism. After years dominated by minimalism and quiet luxury, fashion is now embracing personal expression and uniqueness.
Notable Quote:
"One of the main overall style shifts is the move towards individualism... it's an explosion of personal style."
— Anna LaPlaca [06:35]
This movement is seen as a reaction against the "feelings of sameness" perpetuated by social media algorithms, pushing consumers to seek uniqueness in their wardrobe choices.
Accessories have become a primary avenue for expressing personal style. Bag charms, for instance, have surged in popularity, allowing individuals to customize and personalize their handbags effortlessly.
Notable Quote:
"Bag charms are really a fun and honestly quick way to really just express yourself and individualize your look without having to buy an entire new wardrobe."
— Anna LaPlaca [07:49]
Additionally, trends in sneaker customization, such as replacing laces with colorful fabrics or adding charms, and personalized totes with embroidery, further emphasize this trend.
The rise of "little luxuries" marks a significant trend in the luxury sector. These are smaller-ticket items that offer consumers a taste of luxury without the hefty price tag, aligning with the economic principle known as the "lipstick effect."
Notable Quote:
"These little items are a fun way to kind of add some spice to your look and feel like you are buying something that feels a little bit special without having to make a huge investment purchase."
— Anna LaPlaca [11:31]
Examples include pillbox hats, sculptural ponytail cuffs, statement belts, and 80s-inspired earrings.
While quiet luxury remains influential, 2024 sees a pivot towards the "old money" aesthetic. This style emphasizes signaling an entire lifestyle of wealth rather than individual luxury items.
Notable Quote:
"Old money is more about signaling this entire lifestyle of wealth rather than just owning a one-off luxury buy."
— Anna LaPlaca [12:49]
This aesthetic draws inspiration from classic brands and styles that convey a sense of timeless elegance, often associated with equestrian and Americana influences.
Maximalism is making a bold return, characterized by ornate, lavish, and opulent clothing. This trend stands in stark contrast to the minimalism of previous years, embracing bold colors, rich fabrics, and intricate designs.
Notable Quote:
"Maximalism is defined by an explosion of just like colors and prints, but done in a really 80s coded way."
— Anna LaPlaca [36:17]
Designers like Valentino, Loewe, Therese Van Noten, and Saint Laurent are at the forefront, showcasing collections that feature strong shoulders, ruffled skirts, and vibrant patterns reminiscent of 1980s excess.
Several key items and brands are driving the 2024 fashion landscape:
Barn Coats: Experiencing a 225% increase in searches, barn coats have become the jacket of the season, symbolizing both style and a leisurely, affluent lifestyle.
Notable Quote:
"Barn coats are a huge part of signaling wealth and status and are a trend that is absolutely defining fall style right now."
— Anna LaPlaca [17:07]
Loro Piana: Known for its quiet luxury, brands like Loro Piana and Ralph Lauren are seeing a resurgence, especially among Gen Z consumers, bolstered by viral trends and high-profile runway shows.
Ralph Lauren: With a reported 151% spike in brand engagement this quarter, Ralph Lauren remains a staple of Americana and equestrian fashion, further solidified by their impactful runway shows.
Bohemian style is making a significant comeback, primarily driven by the influential fashion house Chloe under new creative director Shamina Kamali. This revival is characterized by ruffled chiffon, platformed clogs, and layered accessories, echoing the free-spirited and anti-establishment vibes of the 1960s.
Notable Quote:
"The return of boho mirrors the free-spirited, anti-establishment energy that's happening right now, similar to the youth-led movements of the 60s."
— Anna LaPlaca [26:29]
Celebrities like Sienna Miller, Daisy Edgar-Jones, and Sydney Sweeney have popularized these looks, which have also been embraced by affordable retailers like Mango and Zara.
While boho represents a revival of romantic and free-spirited styles, Brat Summer (or year) emerges as a counter-trend emphasizing club attire and a more rebellious, undone aesthetic. Charli XCX epitomizes this trend with her hedonistic and anti-conservative style, characterized by minimal makeup and edgy outfits.
Notable Quote:
"Brat Summer is about rebellion and pushing against structured norms, much like the boho movement's countercultural roots."
— Anna LaPlaca [28:31]
This duality showcases the fashion industry's response to diverse consumer desires for both expressiveness and rebellion.
While some classic shapes remain, there's a noticeable shift towards more fitted silhouettes. After a period dominated by oversized and baggy styles, fitted jeans and tailored trousers are gaining traction.
Notable Quote:
"Looking ahead, there's a movement towards more fitted silhouettes, such as slim-fitting jeans and cigarette trousers."
— Anna LaPlaca [31:03]
Designers like Proenza Schouler and brands like Lafayette 148 are leading this transition, offering sleek and chic alternatives to previously popular baggy styles.
Anna LaPlaca wraps up the discussion by highlighting two primary themes that will dominate the fashion landscape moving into 2025:
Explosion of Personalization: From bag charms to embroidered totes, consumers are seeking ways to personalize their style, embracing self-expression as a means of differentiation.
Notable Quote:
"We'll really see people lean into self-expression as a way to differentiate themselves from the rest of the pack."
— Anna LaPlaca [35:17]
Maximalism and Opulence: The resurgence of maximalism, characterized by vibrant colors, rich fabrics, and intricate designs, will continue to define the aesthetic, encouraging bold and opulent fashion choices.
Notable Quote:
"Maximalism will be defined by an explosion of colors and prints done in a really 80s coded way."
— Anna LaPlaca [36:17]
These trends underscore a fashion industry poised for a playful and expressive renaissance, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique styles while celebrating opulent and vibrant designs.
The Who What Wear Podcast episode featuring Anna LaPlaca offers a thorough and engaging exploration of the current and upcoming fashion trends. By intertwining data-driven insights with cultural analysis, the discussion provides a nuanced understanding of how societal shifts influence style. Whether you're a fashion professional or an enthusiast, this episode equips you with the knowledge to navigate and embrace the dynamic world of fashion in 2024 and beyond.