The Who What Wear Podcast: Episode Summary Title: Too Much Costume Designer Arielle Cooper-Lethem on Maximalism, the Power of a Pioneer Nightgown, and London vs. NYC Style
Release Date: August 13, 2025
Guest: Arielle Cooper-Lethem, Costume Designer for Netflix's Too Much

Introduction

In this episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Lauren Egertson interviews Arielle Cooper-Lethem, the talented costume designer behind Netflix's latest hit, Too Much. Arielle shares her journey into costume design, her collaboration with Lena Dunham, and the intricate process of creating memorable wardrobes for the show's eclectic characters.

Arielle's Background and Career Path

Arielle begins by discussing her passion for vintage clothing and her early experiences in retail and internships, including a pivotal stint at W Magazine. She recounts transitioning from retail and restaurant jobs to costume design in the film and TV industry.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [03:30]: "I just found working in film was like home."

Connecting with Lena Dunham and Too Much

Arielle details how she met Lena Dunham through a mutual friend and their mutual admiration for Dunham's work on Girls. This connection led to her role in designing costumes for Too Much, where she felt an immediate fit with the show's vibrant and diverse wardrobe needs.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [05:14]: "We hung out a bunch of times, and she's just the most lovable person."

Designing Jess's Unique Wardrobe

Focusing on the main character, Jess, Arielle explains her approach to creating a maximalist wardrobe that reflects Jess's journey from New York to London. She highlights the use of vintage nightgowns and lacy bloomers to convey Jess's individuality and emotional growth.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [06:39]: "Jess had to feel really unique and of her own space."

Collaborating with Lena Dunham

Arielle emphasizes the seamless collaboration with Lena Dunham, noting Lena's intuitive understanding of fashion. This synergy allowed for efficient communication and creative freedom in developing costumes that perfectly matched each character's persona.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [07:55]: "Leena is such a fashion girly... I see it."

New York vs. London Style

Exploring the contrast between New York and London fashion, Arielle describes New York styles as versatile and event-ready, while London styles are more eccentric and individualized. She highlights how these distinctions influenced the show's diverse settings.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [09:15]: "London has a kind of eccentricity and individuality."

Impact of Jess's Nightgowns

Arielle discusses the popularity of Jess's frilled nightgowns, which led to a significant increase in sales for the independent British brand If Only If. The nightgowns became iconic symbols of Jess's character and the show's aesthetic.

Lauren Egertson [13:30]: "Sales increased by 640% after the episode aired."

Pivotal Scenes and Costume Highlights

The conversation delves into specific scenes, such as Jess wearing a detachable sailor collar dress during a heartbreaking moment. Arielle explains the design choices that emphasize Jess's emotional state and personal growth.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [15:37]: "The sailor collar is detachable... restock that color."

Felix's Wardrobe: Grunge Meets Androgyny

Arielle elaborates on designing Felix's wardrobe, blending grungy, punk elements with androgynous touches. She ensures Felix's limited wardrobe feels authentic and story-driven, reflecting his complex character.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [21:16]: "Felix has a very small closet... found it somewhere."

Costumes for Felix's Exes

In episode eight, Felix's exes showcase a variety of styles, from high fashion to avant-garde. Arielle discusses creating distinct looks that highlight each ex's unique personality while maintaining the show's cohesive aesthetic.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [23:34]: "We wanted Jess to feel the one that's really out of place."

Wendy's Knitwear-Inspired Wardrobe

Emily Ratajowski's character, Wendy, is portrayed as a knitting influencer. Arielle shares how they collaborated with designer Sarah Beasley of Sulk Knitwear to create Wendy's vibrant and eclectic knit outfits, enhancing her character's multifaceted personality.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [25:43]: "Her knitwear was central to her character's charm."

Coordinating Astrid the Dog's Outfits

Arielle touches on the creative process behind dressing Jess's dog, Astrid. She highlights the importance of matching Astrid's outfits with Jess's wardrobe to maintain visual harmony and character consistency.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [28:20]: "We designed costumes to match Jess's closet."

Jess's Wedding Look

The discussion moves to Jess's wedding attire, a significant moment in the show. Arielle explains the collaboration with designer Veronica Schaeffer to create a tutu bridal skirt and how symbolism is woven into Jess's wedding ensemble.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [29:35]: "The tutu skirt felt perfect for Jess's story arc."

Future Style Journeys for Jess

Arielle speculates on potential developments for Jess's style in a possible second season. She envisions Jess evolving her personal style further as she grows in her relationship and settles into life in London.

Arielle Cooper-Lethem [31:04]: "It'd be fun to see her grow into her relationship."

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with Arielle expressing her hopes for a second season and her gratitude for being part of the show. Host Lauren Egertson thanks Arielle for her insights and contributions to Too Much.

Notable Quotes

• Arielle Cooper-Leatham [03:30]: "I just found working in film was like home."
• Lauren Egertson [13:30]: "Sales increased by 640% after the episode aired."
• Arielle Cooper-Leatham [25:43]: "Her knitwear was central to her character's charm."

This episode offers a comprehensive look into the intricate world of costume design for Too Much, highlighting Arielle Cooper-Leatham's creative process and the profound impact of fashion on storytelling.