Summary of "What Does It Mean to Be an American Fashion Designer in 2025?" Episode of The Who What Wear Podcast
Release Date: April 30, 2025
Introduction
In this compelling episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Lauren Egertson delves into the evolving landscape of American fashion through the insightful reporting of Anna Escalante, Associate Features Editor at Who What Wear. Titled "What Does It Mean to Be an American Fashion Designer in 2025?", the episode explores the challenges and triumphs faced by American designers amidst a turbulent political and economic climate. Through in-depth conversations with industry experts and designers—Sergio Hudson, Jackson Wiederhoeft, and Alina Liu—the podcast paints a vivid picture of the current state and future of American fashion.
The State of American Fashion in 2025
Anna Escalante introduces her feature piece, "Invest in Meet the Political and Creative Forces Driving American Fashion's Evolution," which examines the hurdles faced by independent American designers, especially those from marginalized communities. She highlights how the current political climate and economic pressures have made sustaining an independent fashion brand increasingly difficult. Escalante emphasizes the importance of focusing on homegrown talent over European luxury conglomerates, which dominate the industry.
"In the current retail, political, and economic state of the United States right now, it's really challenging to be an independent designer, especially who operates with most of your production inside the United States."
— Anna Escalante [03:16]
Insights from Industry Experts
Sheena Butler Young on DEI
Escalante shares her conversation with Sheena Butler Young, Senior Correspondent at Business of Fashion, who provides a critical analysis of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) initiatives within the fashion industry.
"Fashion's adoption of DE&I as a function, as an initiative or whatever they were doing with it came only in 2020. That's most fashion companies that have anything related to DEI started in 2020."
— Sheena Butler Young [07:30]
Sheena discusses how DEI efforts in fashion have often been performative rather than substantive, highlighting a lack of sustained commitment beyond initial pledges. The introduction of anti-DEI policies, such as recent affirmative action challenges, has further complicated these efforts, leading to a backlash that threatens the progress made.
"DEI is now politicized and compromised. It's about what companies actually do next and do right now, not just what they say they will do."
— Sheena Butler Young [11:46]
Despite these setbacks, Sheena remains optimistic about the future, pointing out the demographic shifts in the U.S. that will favor designers from diverse backgrounds.
"By 2045, this country will be majority non-white. Designers with a strong point of view that resonate with who will be the majority in the next 20, 30 years will be successful."
— Sheena Butler Young [12:59]
Designer Perspectives
Sergio Hudson: Challenging Stereotypes
Sergio Hudson, an established veteran in American sportswear, shares his frustrations with being typecast as a black designer. He feels that the industry imposes stereotypes, limiting his creative freedom and commercial success.
"We are almost like stereotyped into a box to the point I have had people tell me there's no space for me in that space."
— Sergio Hudson [15:00] [16:45]
Hudson emphasizes the need for the industry to recognize him as an American sportswear designer rather than solely through the lens of his identity.
"I feel like the support needs to come back for the art form of making beautiful clothing for women to wear."
— Sergio Hudson [16:51]
Despite the challenges, Hudson remains determined to survive and thrive, advocating for increased support of independent brands to foster industry growth.
Jackson Wiederhoeft: Embracing Queerness in Fashion
Jackson Wiederhoeft, known for his whimsical and otherworldly designs, discusses how his queer identity influences his work and the broader fashion narrative.
"Peterhoft is a queer brand, and that is like a first and foremost thing, both in terms of the vision and the storytelling collaborators I get to work with."
— Jackson Wiederhoff [20:29]
Wiederhoeft highlights the role of fashion in amplifying social and political conversations, particularly for the queer community. He believes that creating inclusive and representative imagery can help queer individuals feel seen and valued.
"The bigger we make that world, the more imagery exists in it, the more I think you can see yourself in it."
— Jackson Wiederhoff [22:56]
Amidst growing anti-trans executive orders, Wiederhoeft remains resilient, viewing his creative work as a form of advocacy and revenge against oppression.
"My version of revenge is creating beautiful art."
— Jackson Wiederhoff [23:56]
He also emphasizes the importance of supporting American manufacturing and local craftsmanship, celebrating the diverse and immigrant-owned businesses in New York's garment district.
"Supporting local craftsmanship and engaging in a system where American designers, American artisans, craftspeople, vendors—it's a complex ecosystem."
— Jackson Wiederhoff [24:53]
Alina Liu: Navigating Dual Identities
Alina Liu, a 33-year-old designer based in New York, shares her struggles with identity and the financial realities of sustaining a fashion label in the U.S. Her journey reflects the broader challenges faced by designers of color in securing investment and maintaining ethical production practices.
"It's difficult and complicated to identify as an American designer. I'm struggling aggressively with it."
— Alina Liu [29:02]
Liu discusses the stigma associated with "Made in China", countering stereotypes by emphasizing the ethical practices and skilled craftsmanship of her Guangzhou-based manufacturing partners.
"It's wildly racist and shitty to associate the entire country for a couple of people's mistakes."
— Alina Liu [27:23]
Faced with tariffs and financial constraints, Liu highlights the necessity of producing overseas to remain competitive, despite personal frustrations with being perceived negatively based on her heritage.
"We have to raise our prices. That's the only way we can survive."
— Alina Liu [28:29]
Key Takeaways
Anna Escalante synthesizes her findings, underscoring the critical need for tangible support for independent American designers beyond social media advocacy. She emphasizes that while online engagement is valuable, direct financial support—such as purchasing from these brands and ensuring timely payments from retailers—is essential for their survival.
"It's really important to support these designers in your everyday life. Something that you can tangibly put your dollars behind."
— Anna Escalante [30:50]
She also reflects on the future of New York Fashion Week, questioning its sustainability given the high costs and the shifting focus towards digital and social media influencers. Escalante advocates for maintaining robust traditional press coverage to provide designers with a "sealed stamp of approval" that can attract retailers and investors.
"Press is a way to reach out to retailers and say, hey, the people who are in these rooms are really paying attention to what I'm doing."
— Anna Escalante [35:09]
Conclusion
The episode concludes with a strong call to action for listeners to support American designers by actively engaging with their brands, making purchases, and advocating for equitable practices within the fashion industry. Lauren Egertson encourages the audience to read Escalante's feature piece for a deeper understanding and invites them to follow and shop from the highlighted designers.
Who What Wear underscores the vital role of media in uplifting diverse voices and fostering an inclusive fashion ecosystem. As the American fashion landscape continues to navigate political and economic challenges, the resilience and creativity of designers like Sergio Hudson, Jackson Wiederhoeft, and Alina Liu illuminate a path forward that embraces diversity, sustainability, and authentic storytelling.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
-
“Scary. That's the first thing that comes to mind for me.”
— Sergio Hudson [13:44] -
“We are almost like stereotyped into a box..."
— Sergio Hudson [15:00] -
“Magic in the world of fashion comes from embracing the marginalized.”
— Jackson Wiederhoff [20:29] -
“My version of revenge is creating beautiful art.”
— Jackson Wiederhoff [23:56] -
“It's difficult and complicated to identify as an American designer.”
— Alina Liu [29:02] -
“It's really important to support these designers in your everyday life.”
— Anna Escalante [30:50]
This episode serves as a poignant exploration of the intersection between fashion, identity, and politics in 2025, offering listeners a nuanced understanding of what it means to be an American fashion designer today.