Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast

Episode: Cracking the Cheesecake Code (March 23, 2026)

Hosts: David Tamarkin (King Arthur Editorial Director) & Jessica Battilana (Staff Editor)
Guest: Carla Hall (chef, author, TV host)

Episode Overview

In the kickoff of Season 3, David and Jessica dive deep into the rich and sometimes contentious world of cheesecake—discussing its history, regional variations, baking techniques, and why so many home bakers struggle with (or love) this iconic dessert. Special guest Carla Hall joins to share her well-earned tips, recipe tweaks, and a little cheesecake lore. Listener questions range from Basque cheesecake technique to low-sugar crusts and springform pan alternatives. As always, the episode is lively, honest, and brimming with practical baking advice.

Main Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Great Cheesecake Divide

• Jessica confesses a long-standing ambivalence (bordering on aversion) to cheesecake, especially the dense New York style, while David offers a more moderate counter: “I like cheesecake. I don’t love it. I like it.” [01:37]
• Cheesecake’s enduring place on American menus is explored, with anecdotes about how some regions (e.g., Wisconsin) simply won’t let chefs remove it. [01:52]

“They will not let us take a cheesecake off the menu. Like, they revolt.” — David [01:54]

2. A Brief Global & Historical Survey

• Cheesecakes date back to the Roman Empire, made with ricotta or quark in Europe long before American cream cheese existed.
• Key historical shift: Cream cheese, as we know it today, was not invented until 1872, but it revolutionized cheesecakes, especially in America. [04:50]
• Classic New York cheesecakes are typically dense, mildly sweet, with a cream cheese base. Junior’s (Brooklyn) uses a sponge cake crust, which Jessica finds least appealing. [03:32]
• Variations abound:
  • Italy: ricotta-based
  • Germany: cottage cheese-based
  • US: cream cheese-based, often with graham cracker crusts or “blank canvas” flavors (fruit toppings, marbling, Oreos, etc.) [07:08, 07:30]

3. Technique Talk: Water Baths, Overmixing, and Cracks

• Water baths are standard for gentle, custardy baking, but not strictly necessary for every cheesecake, especially New York style or Basque. [08:07, 08:35]

“Cheesecake is essentially a custard… you want to cook it gently because the risk is that if you’re cooking at too high of a heat... it’s going to curdle.” — Jessica [08:35]

• Overmixing (especially with a whisk/balloon attachment) can cause excess air, leading to cracks. Carla Hall always uses a paddle in the mixer for this reason. [12:16]
• Cracking: To avoid, mix gently, bake in a water bath, and manage cooling carefully. Carla leaves her cheesecake in the oven (door cracked) before chilling. [13:33]

4. Carla Hall’s Cheesecake Wisdom

(Exclusive Interview) [10:16–19:51]

• Personal Take: Not a cheesecake lover herself, but her husband adores it, so she’s made many.
  • “As somebody who cooks… when you know people love a thing… you want to make it good for them.” — Carla [11:24]
• Top Tips:
  • Use a paddle, not a whisk, for mixing—less air, fewer cracks.
  • All ingredients at room temperature.
  • Always bake in a water bath, cool slowly in the oven with the door cracked. [13:12]
  • Graham cracker crusts are standard, but ginger snaps or shortbread also work. [14:02]
  • Adds sour cream topping for tang and richness balance (which her husband dislikes).
• Savory Cheesecakes:
  • Blue cheese, candied walnuts, honey, and figs = “gorgeous.” [14:50]
  • Serve in the French tradition, as a cheese course.

“First of all, balance—sweet, savory, salty, a little bit of bitter. There’s a balance in flavor. There’s also balance in texture, and I think that’s where the crust comes in.” — Carla Hall [15:47]

• Texture & Doneness:
  • Edges should be set, center should jiggle “like jello.”
  • “If you put a toothpick in your cheesecake and it is dry, it’s gonna be chalky. Yeah.” — Carla [17:06]
• On Writing Her New Baking Book:
  • Carla Bakes (coming September), all recipes by weight.
  • “I want the book to come with a freaking scale. I spent the time y’all to do this for you.” — Carla [18:24]
  • Strong endorsement of King Arthur Flour’s quality, especially for biscuits. [19:03]

Listener Q&A Highlights

[Ask the Bakers!]

1. Pumpkins & Basque Cheesecakes [21:12–27:49]

• What is Basque cheesecake, and why no water bath?
  • Basque cheesecake is a crustless, burnt cheesecake originating at La Viña in San Sebastián, Spain (1988). [23:45]
  • Deeply caramelized, dual texture: firm, caramelized surface, custardy inside.
  • Mixed in a food processor reduces air (and thus cracks). No water bath required; the “burnt” exterior is intentional and delicious. [24:21, 24:45]
  • Perfect doneness: 2–3 inches from edge set, center “waterbed-jiggly.”
• Memorable Tangent: Jessica’s “first boyfriend had a waterbed,” forever associating the texture of a perfect cheesecake center with that sensation. [25:46–26:37]

2. Lower-Sugar Graham Cracker Crusts [27:58–31:52]

• Reducing sugar in crust = more crumbly, since sugar acts as a binder when melted.
• Alternatives:
  • Use less-sweet cookies or crackers (digestive, gingersnaps, Ritz, even oyster crackers).
  • Skip crust entirely (“Go Basque style!”)
  • Bake crust separately as a crumble to control amount and sweetness.
  • Junior’s style: Use sponge cake (not as sweet). [31:41]

3. No Springform Pan? [32:01–34:51]

• Solutions if you lack a springform:
  • Line regular round cake pan with parchment, grease sides, chill to unmold.
  • Not as pretty, but canned cherry topping covers flaws!
  • Aim for a deeper pan (3–4” sides) to accommodate cheesecake volume. [34:09]
  • Or make cheesecake bars in a rectangular pan (recipes on site).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• Jessica, on the appeal of classic cherry-topped cheesecake:
  “I have a very soft spot for that, like, kind of gross, gloopy, canned cherry pie filling, like the neon red that kind of stains the corner of your mouth when you eat it.” [06:44]
• Carla Hall (on overmixing & cracks):
  “I do not beat. Now I use the paddle, I do not use the balloon with. So I’m thinking about doing this in a KitchenAid. All of my ingredients are at room temperature and I use a paddle because a paddle is going to put in less air.” [12:16]
• On Proper Cheesecake Doneness:
  “Those first 3 inches are set. That middle section is a little jiggly, like jello.” — Carla [16:49] “The image of a cheesecake, of a perfectly baked cheesecake gave you, sent you back to the waterbed. No wonder you hate cheesecake.” — David [25:58]

Jess’s (Curmudgeonly) Cheesecake Opinions [35:26]

• Admits her bias, but softens after this deep dive:
  “Maybe I don’t hate. Maybe I was just being a curmudgeon.” [35:17]
• Surprise Favorite:
  Japanese-style “cotton” or souffle cheesecakes—tall, fluffy, silky, very different from dense NY-style. “That is a worthy endeavor...a total departure from what we think of as cheesecake.” [36:15]

Timestamps for Key Segments

| Timestamp | Segment | Notes | |-----------|-----------------------------------------|-------| | 01:10 | Cheesecake—History, Popularity | Start of the cheesecake deep-dive | | 09:28 | Carla Hall Interview | Baking mishaps, technique chat | | 14:45 | Savory cheesecakes & judging tips | Cheese course, textures, flavors | | 16:40 | Doneness: Jiggle test | “Like Jello” | | 21:12 | Ask the Bakers: Basque Cheesecakes | Listener Q&A begins | | 27:58 | Ask the Bakers: Low-sugar crusts | Alternatives discussed | | 32:01 | Ask the Bakers: No Springform Pan | How-to bake cheesecake “naked” | | 35:26 | Jess’s Strong Opinions Segment | Curmudgeon confessions, Japanese cheesecake | | 37:42 | What Are You Baking Next? | Birthday cakes & protein pancakes |

Links / Further Resources (as referenced)

• [King Arthur’s Pumpkin Basque Cheesecake Recipe]
• [Japanese Cotton Cheesecake Recipe]
• [Favorite Fudge Birthday Cake Recipe]

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Recap & Takeaways

• Cheesecake is endlessly flexible, both classic and modern, highly regional, and full of texture pitfalls and creative opportunities.
• The difference between a good and great cheesecake often lies in gentle mixing, careful baking (sometimes a water bath, sometimes not), and proper texture in both filling and crust.
• Even if you're not a cheesecake-lover, there are styles and flavor profiles for almost everyone—and experimentation is encouraged!
• Don’t let the lack of a pan or the need for less sugar stop you. Cheesecake is for everyone, so make it your own!

Final note:
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