Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"
Episode 79: An Award-Winning Collection with Annika Geisberger
Release Date: July 3, 2024

Introduction

In Episode 79 of the Threads Magazine Podcast, titled "An Award-Winning Collection," host Janine Clegg sits down with Annika Geisberger, the 2024 Threads Magazine Sewing Award winner for Excellence in Garment Construction. Annika, a recent graduate from the Fashion program at Marist College in New York, shares the intricate details, inspirations, and challenges behind her acclaimed collection, "Bloom." This episode delves deep into the fusion of poetry and design, innovative sewing techniques, and the personal journey that led Annika to create a cohesive and emotionally resonant fashion line.

Annika’s Background and Collection Overview

Janine Clegg opens the conversation by congratulating Annika on her impressive final senior project, highlighting the collection’s "cohesive, polished, and joyful" nature. Annika elaborates on the inspiration behind "Bloom," revealing a heartfelt connection to her late grandmother's poetry.

Annika Geisberger [01:39]: “Bloom is a collection that is inspired by my grandmother's nature and garden poems. She was a poet, an avid gardener, and a very spiritual woman who regarded nature as something that was equal to herself.”

Annika’s grandmother left her and her mother with hundreds of poems and journals, prompting Annika to merge her grandmother’s literary artistry with her own passion for fashion design. The collection aims to "bring her poetry to life" and encourage people to reconnect with nature, stepping away from technology-laden lifestyles.

Collection Details

Annika discusses the structure of her collection, which comprises four looks encompassing a total of 10 garments. One standout piece is the "Bouquet Bag," a whimsical accessory designed to hold bouquets of flowers, seamlessly integrating functionality with aesthetic appeal.

Annika Geisberger [03:18]: “I really picture, like, a young woman bringing this bouquet bag to the farmer's market, getting her organic produce, getting her flowers for the week. And it's really just a cute, chic accessory.”

The collection utilizes fluid linen suiting for the exterior of the bag, ensuring harmony with the garments, while the interior is lined with canvas material to protect textiles from potential stains caused by fresh flowers.

Design Process and Challenges

Creating "Bloom" was an extensive process for Annika, spanning an entire school year plus the preceding summer. The first semester focused on concept development and pattern making, while the second semester was dedicated to final fabric work, including hand painting and fabric sculpting.

Annika Geisberger [05:16]: “I was very ambitious. I had a lot of details, a lot of hands drawn prints, hand painted prints, and it took me quite a while and a lot of very careful planning of my time in order to get everything done.”

Annika’s perfectionist nature drove her to meticulously plan and execute each detail, ensuring flawless fits and cohesive designs. The ambitious scope of the collection presented significant time management challenges, particularly in balancing intricate handwork with fabrication deadlines.

Highlight: “Moss Life” Poem and the Signature Coat

A pivotal moment in the episode is when Annika shares her grandmother’s poem, "Moss Life," which served as the muse for her standout garment—a 100% cashmere wool coat adorned with detailed flowers, mushrooms, and lichen motifs.

Annika Geisberger [07:37]:
“Moss Life, and this was written in 2004. You can hardly see them unless they huddle together. Those tiny lives that scramble up the wall almost overnight...”

This poetic inspiration translates into the coat’s design, embodying the resilience and subtle beauty of moss. Annika elaborates on the sewing techniques used to attach the 3D embellishments seamlessly:

Annika Geisberger [09:36]: “I used a longer embroidery needle that was super thin as well as pretty thin thread. And I really carefully and meticulously tacked each flower and each petal in a way that would bring it to life and create the 3D structure, while not to show the appearance.”

Her dedication to making the stitches invisible ensures that the embellishments enhance rather than distract from the garment's overall aesthetic.

Innovative Techniques: Hand Painting and UV Activated Fabrics

Annika delves into her use of hand painting and UV activated dyes to add dynamic elements to her collection. The hand-painted silk prints required meticulous planning and time, often stretching beyond her initial estimates.

Annika Geisberger [11:03]: “Whatever time I gave for myself, it ended up taking at least five times longer than I expected.”

The introduction of photochromic UV dyes added another layer of complexity, allowing fabrics to change color under specific UV light conditions. This innovation not only aligns with the collection’s nature-centric theme but also posed unique challenges in sourcing and application.

Annika Geisberger [13:37]: “I ended up finding the correct lights, and so we had that Runway moment, and it was really fun.”

Achieving the desired color changes on the runway required extensive experimentation with different lighting solutions, highlighting Annika’s perseverance and problem-solving skills.

Annika’s Sewing Journey

Annika shares her long-standing passion for sewing, beginning in childhood with classes and progressing through formal education. Her early experiences laid a strong foundation, allowing her to develop sophisticated sewing techniques by the time she reached Marist College.

Annika Geisberger [18:38]: “I started out with a hand sewing class... I fell in love. Absolutely.”

A memorable anecdote involves her first successful prom dress in high school—a cute pink satin dress with a flowy, A-line skirt and a leg slit, achieved without conventional pattern-making techniques.

Annika Geisberger [20:13]: “...there was this super cute pink satin dress, and the front part of the bodice laced up... the bottom was this... a leg slit...”

This story underscores Annika’s natural talent and willingness to experiment, qualities that have significantly contributed to her success.

Future Aspirations

Looking ahead, Annika plans to join a passionate design team to further hone her skills and gain industry experience. Her ultimate ambition is to establish her own brand, driven by her desire to continue blending artistic inspiration with innovative garment construction.

Annika Geisberger [23:41]: “I really want to join a design team that I'm passionate about that I can really be a part of and learn from. So that's my next goal.”

Closing Moments: Sharing Poetry

The episode concludes with Annika reciting another of her grandmother’s poems, "Nature," encapsulating the profound connection between the natural world and human creativity.

Annika Geisberger [24:39]:
“You are the mother of all things, the roots underground, the tree with the yearly circles, teaching us about floods and drought... Lotus flowers rising from mud to open our eyes to the meaning of body and soul.”

Conclusion

Annika Geisberger’s "Bloom" collection is a testament to the harmonious blend of personal history, artistic expression, and technical expertise. Her ability to transform poetic inspiration into tangible, wearable art showcases the depth of her talent and dedication. This episode of "Sewing With Threads" offers invaluable insights into the creative process of a rising star in the fashion industry, inspiring listeners to explore the intersections of art, nature, and craftsmanship in their own sewing endeavors.

For more details about Annika's collection, including images and a full write-up, visit threadsmagazine.com. Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe to the podcast wherever you listen.

Notable Quotes:

• Annika Geisberger [01:39]: “Bloom is a collection that is inspired by my grandmother's nature and garden poems...”
• Annika Geisberger [07:35]: “Moss Life... These tiny lives... settling a short time before humidity slows...”
• Annika Geisberger [09:36]: “I used a longer embroidery needle that was super thin as well as pretty thin thread...”
• Annika Geisberger [13:37]: “I ended up finding the correct lights, and so we had that Runway moment...”
• Annika Geisberger [18:38]: “I started out with a hand sewing class... I fell in love. Absolutely.”
• Annika Geisberger [23:41]: “I really want to join a design team that I'm passionate about...”

This summary was crafted to provide a comprehensive overview of Episode 79 of the Threads Magazine Podcast, capturing the essence of Annika Geisberger’s award-winning collection and her inspiring journey in the world of sewing and fashion design.