**Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads" – Episode 81 Summary
Title: Back to School for Tailoring, with Duane MacLeod
Release Date: September 4, 2024

Introduction and Background

In Episode 81 of the Threads Magazine Podcast, host Carol Frazier welcomes Duane MacLeod, a skilled menswear sewist based on the coast of Maine. Duane, known on social media as @ainelymenswear, shares his inspiring journey from a nursing career to establishing a bespoke tailoring business. With over twelve years of sewing experience, Duane’s passion for garment construction and attention to detail have made him a respected figure in the sewing community.

The Start of Duane's Sewing Journey

Duane’s foray into sewing began unexpectedly when searching for a birthday gift for his daughter, a fashion design major. He discovered a Japanese sewing book titled Men's Coats, adorned with an enticing cover resembling a Burberry trench coat. Intrigued by the book’s diagrammatic, IKEA-style instructions, Duane embarked on creating his first duffle coat.

Duane MacLeod (02:02): "I decided that I would make the duffel coat out of that book. And I just was instantly hooked on the whole process."

This experience ignited his fascination with transforming two-dimensional patterns into three-dimensional garments, leading him to complete all four designs featured in the book.

Transition to Tailoring

Inspired by sewist Peter Lapin, whom Duane regards as the ambassador of men's sewing, he transitioned from following Japanese instructional books to utilizing vintage patterns. Duane appreciated the affordability and quality of vintage Vogue and Bill Blass patterns available on platforms like eBay and Etsy.

Duane MacLeod (05:36): "I made some shirts, I maybe made some trousers, but it was like, man, I really want to know how to make a tailored jacket."

This desire to master tailored jackets marked a significant shift in Duane’s sewing journey, steering him towards formal tailoring education.

The Tailoring Academy Experience

Duane discovered the Tailoring Academy through Instagram, captivated by its setting in an old silk factory in Macclesfield, UK. The academy offered a comprehensive, year-long program that Duane eagerly joined after overcoming visa challenges through a modified course structure.

Duane MacLeod (09:55): "The Tailoring Academy just kind of popped up on Instagram for me."

During the program, Duane and his fellow international students engaged in intensive practical tailoring work, including drafting and constructing garments such as jackets and trousers. The curriculum emphasized both traditional British tailoring techniques and personal portfolio development.

Duane MacLeod (14:05): "We drafted a man's jacket, as I recall, and also a pair of trousers. It was just an amazing experience."

Building a Personal Portfolio

A unique aspect of the academy was the requirement to develop a personal portfolio, akin to writing a bespoke tailoring textbook. Duane chose to create a handwritten portfolio, incorporating sketches and personal reflections, which he continues to use as a reference and travel journal.

Duane MacLeod (16:00): "I've kind of taken the elements of the course and put them in my own words. I've illustrated it in ways that make sense to me."

This personalized approach to learning allowed Duane to internalize tailoring techniques deeply and apply them creatively in his projects.

Savile Row and Industry Insights

Duane’s visit to Savile Row in London was a pivotal experience. He encountered top-tier tailors, including Anderson and Shepherd, who graciously shared their preferred chalk brand used in tailoring. This discovery addressed a common frustration among academy students regarding chalk quality.

Duane MacLeod (25:57): "I bought two boxes, and before you know it, I think everybody at the Academy was using that chalk."

Additionally, inspired by a tutor who was an engineer, Duane fabricated his own chalk sharpener, showcasing his resourcefulness and dedication to his craft.

Establishing His Bespoke Business

Upon returning to Maine, Duane founded Hold Fast Bespoke, a bespoke tailoring business catering to contemporary menswear needs. Leveraging insights from a Small Business Administration advisor, he conducted market research and collaborated with upscale local menswear stores like David Wood in Portland.

Duane MacLeod (29:46): "What they were really looking for is clothes that function in their lives. That was like, really important to them."

Duane emphasizes creating functional garments tailored to individual lifestyles, such as jackets suitable for frequent travelers or statement pieces for specific community events.

Future Endeavors and Vision

Looking ahead, Duane remains enthusiastic about the endless possibilities in bespoke tailoring. He is currently working on diverse projects, including a wool overcoat for David Wood and a rainbow glitter jacket for LGBTQ fundraisers. His approach centers on fulfilling clients' unique visions while continuing to experiment with innovative designs.

Duane MacLeod (34:58): "It's sort of an adventure. You know, people contact me sometimes... it's a lot of fun working on it and thinking about how I'm going to do it."

Duane envisions his business growing organically, driven by client needs and creative opportunities, positioning him at the forefront of a burgeoning movement that values craftsmanship and personalized fashion.

Conclusion

Episode 81 of Threads Magazine Podcast offers an in-depth look into Duane MacLeod’s transformative journey from a nursing career to becoming a bespoke tailor. His story underscores the importance of passion, education, and adaptability in the evolving landscape of sewing and fashion design. Duane’s commitment to functional and personalized menswear exemplifies the spirit of modern craftsmanship, inspiring fellow sewists to explore new horizons in their creative endeavors.

Notable Quotes:

• Duane MacLeod (02:02): "I just have never stopped [sewing]."
• Carol Frazier (04:11): "I have never the special skills that made it possible for you to interpret those diagrams."
• Duane MacLeod (17:30): "I'm kind of on the tip of a new movement... the makers that want to be the craftspeople that are keeping sort of dying crafts alive."
• Duane MacLeod (29:46): "I have no idea where it's going to lead. That's the other kind of fun part about it, is that it's sort of an adventure."

This summary encapsulates Duane MacLeod’s passion for sewing, his educational pursuits, industry experiences, and entrepreneurial ventures, providing a comprehensive overview for those interested in the art of tailoring and bespoke menswear.