Threads Magazine Podcast: "Choosing and Using Schmetz Needles, with Rhonda Pierce" – Episode 75 Summary
Release Date: March 6, 2024
Welcome to a deep dive into the intricacies of sewing machine needles with Rhonda Pierce, VP Marketing Director of Euro Notions and spokesperson for SchmetzNeedles.com North America. Hosted by Janine Clegg of Threads Magazine, this episode unpacks everything you need to know about selecting and utilizing Schmetz needles to enhance your sewing projects.
1. Navigating Schmetz Needle Resources
Rhonda begins by highlighting the extensive resources available on the Schmetz website. The Resource Page offers a treasure trove of information, including the popular Schmetz ABC Pocket Guide, detailed descriptions of over 100 fabrics, and tailored suggestions for thread and needle pairings.
Rhonda Pierce [01:52]: "There's a wealth of information available at schmetzneedles.com under the Resources section, including our ABC Pocket Guide and a reference of over 100 fabrics with suggested needle types and sizes."
2. Decoding the Schmetz Color Coding System
Understanding needle color codes is crucial for seamless sewing. Since 2014, Schmetz needles feature a dual-band color system:
- Top Color Band: Identifies the needle type.
- Lower Color Band: Indicates the needle size.
Rhonda Pierce [03:16]: "The top color band identifies the needle type, and the lower color band identifies the needle size."
The only exception to this system is the Universal needle, which maintains a single color band solely for size identification.
3. Understanding Needle Sizes: The Dual Number System
Schmetz utilizes a two-number system to denote needle sizes, such as 70/10 or 80/12:
- The first number (e.g., 70, 80) is based on the metric measurement of the needle’s blade multiplied by 100.
- The second number aligns with the International (Singer) sizing system, ensuring compatibility across different manufacturers.
Rhonda Pierce [04:48]: "Sizes 70, 80, 90, etc., are based on the actual measurement, making it easier to understand that a size 90 needle is larger than a size 70 needle."
4. Selecting the Right Needle for Your Fabric
a. Sewing Vinyl
Vinyl requires special consideration due to its tendency to cling to needles when heated.
Rhonda Pierce [07:19]: "The Super Nonstick needle is perfect for vinyl because its anti-adhesive coating prevents the vinyl from hugging the needle, allowing for clear stitching."
The Super Nonstick Super Universal needle is recommended, especially in sizes 7010, 8012, 9014, and 100, catering to various vinyl weights.
b. Working with Faux Leather
Faux leather can be tricky due to its texture and weight.
Rhonda Pierce [09:19]: "For faux leather, the Super Nonstick is a great option for lighter weights, while the Leather needle, with its cutting blade, is suitable for heavier or textured faux leathers."
c. Sewing Faux Fur
Faux fur, particularly minky and cuddle fabrics, demands precise needles to handle their plush textures.
Rhonda Pierce [11:13]: "I use the Stretch 9014 needle for faux fur, especially if it contains lycra or spandex. Alternatively, a jersey or universal needle can also be effective."
5. Stretch Needles vs. Ballpoint/Jersey Needles
When working with knit fabrics, the choice between Stretch and Jersey (Ballpoint) needles can impact stitch quality.
Rhonda Pierce [12:49]: "The Stretch needle has a smaller eye and a deeper scarf compared to the Jersey needle, making it ideal for fabrics with elasticity like spandex or lycra."
Recommendation: Keep both Stretch (9014) and Jersey needles in your stash to accommodate various knit fabrics.
6. Troubleshooting and Maintaining Your Needles
Rhonda emphasizes the importance of recognizing when to replace your needle to avoid sewing mishaps.
Clues to Change Your Needle:
- Thread Issues: Breakage or shredding indicates a dull or worn needle.
- Fabric Problems: Snagging, puckering, or fabric being tucked into the throat plate.
- Stitch Quality: Uneven, skipping, or squiggly stitches signal needle deterioration.
- Auditory Cues: Clicking or popping sounds are immediate indicators to replace the needle.
Rhonda Pierce [19:45]: "Instead of timing how long your needle lasts, watch for signs like thread breaking or skipped stitches to know when it's time for a change."
Testing Needle Condition:
- Fingernail Scratch Test: Run the needle over your nail; a scratch reveals a burr.
- Fabric Snag Test: Sew on old hose or scrap fabric to check for snags or pulls.
Rhonda Pierce [24:55]: "If the needle leaves a scratch on your nail or snags the fabric, it's time to toss it."
7. Real-Life Needle Challenges: Rhonda’s Story
Rhonda shares a personal anecdote illustrating the importance of selecting the correct needle.
In 2017, while working on a year-long quilt challenge, she experienced resistance using a Microtex 8012 needle with heavy K Facet fabrics. Switching to a smaller Microtex 7010 needle resolved the issue, enabling smooth stitching and timely completion of her quilt.
Rhonda Pierce [27:28]: "When I switched to the Microtex 7010, the stitching was like butter, and I finished my quilt in record time."
She also recounts experimenting with the Super Nonstick needle on her serger, which proved incompatible, reinforcing the importance of using machine-specific needles.
8. Rhonda’s Needle Recommendations
If Rhonda could only keep five Schmetz needles, she opts for:
- Microtex 8012 – Her all-time favorite for precision sewing.
- Microtex 7010 – Ideal for projects requiring finer stitches.
- Super Nonstick Series – Essential for vinyl and specialty fabrics.
- Universal Needles (8012 & 9014) – Versatile workhorses for various sewing tasks.
- Combo Packs (Piecing and Quilting) – Provide a comprehensive selection for both garment and quilting projects.
Rhonda Pierce [32:06]: "Microtex is the workhorse of all needle types. You always need an 8012 and a 9014 in your stash."
9. Final Insights and Resources
Rhonda encourages listeners to subscribe to the Schmetz newsletter for exclusive offers and access to live Q&A sessions. She highlights the availability of SchmetzNeedles.com on platforms like Facebook, Pinterest, and their dedicated app for convenient access to resources.
Rhonda Pierce [33:18]: "SchmetzNeedles.com is our site, and we offer various freebies and special offers for our subscribers."
10. Closing Thoughts
Janine and Rhonda conclude the episode by reiterating the importance of having a diverse needle stash and staying informed through reliable resources. Janine shares her preference for Microtex needles, particularly favoring smaller sizes like 70 for delicate fabrics.
Janine Clegg [35:02]: "I do like the universal needles, but I have been leaning lately toward the Microtex. I go with the 70 because some of the fabrics I sew are thinner."
Listeners are encouraged to visit the show notes for links to SchmetzNeedles.com, social media platforms, and additional resources to continue their sewing education.
By delving into the specifics of needle selection, maintenance, and practical application, Rhonda Pierce provides invaluable insights for both novice and seasoned sewers. This episode is a must-listen for anyone looking to elevate their sewing projects with the right tools and knowledge.