Threads Magazine Podcast: Sewing With Threads
Episode 98: Professionally Pleated Pants, with Mary Funt
Date: February 3, 2026

Episode Overview

In this episode, host Jeanine Clegg chats with couture sewist and instructor Mary Funt about the fascinating world of custom, professionally pleated pants. Drawing on Mary’s deep experience with couture and special occasion garments, the episode takes listeners on an in-depth journey through the process of working with a professional pleater (notably George Kalejian of Tom’s Sons International Pleating), choosing fabrics and styles, understanding the pleating process, and incorporating pleats into practical, wearable pieces. The conversation is a wellspring of inspiration and practical advice for sewing enthusiasts keen to elevate their work with expertly executed pleating techniques.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Inspiration & Origins of Mary’s Pleated Pants Project

• Mary’s Motivation: Mary was inspired by pleated pants made by George Kalejian for his wife, which blended both elegance and casual style.

  “I thought that they might be more appealing to the readers than a formal dress that maybe doesn’t get worn that often—to have something that’s a little more casual in your wardrobe.” – Mary (01:48)

• Purpose: Bring pleating into practical, versatile garments, not just special-occasion wear.

2. Working with a Professional Pleater: Process & Advice

• George’s Expertise: George Kalejian has developed specialized processes and even a computer program to cut pleated pants fabric perfectly, especially for tricky parts like crotch curves.

  “He told me that he has actually developed a computer program for cutting the fabric because it eliminates the sewer having to figure out that crotch curve, which can be a little tricky in pleated fabric.” – Mary (03:29)

• Fabric Tip: Polyester works best for permanent pleats—natural fibers will lose their pleats if wet or cleaned.

  “If you want something that you can simply throw in the washing machine and hang it up to dry, use a good quality polyester fabric, and that will give you much better results.” – Mary (03:54)

3. The Professional Pleating Process: Step-by-Step

• Cutting: Fabric is laid out on a huge, specialized table. Air puffs smooth it, then a vacuum holds it taut as a computerized machine accurately cuts the shape—including notches and curves.

  “For a home sewer to get that fabric perfectly lined up, you really have to have a very large table…” – Mary (04:55)

• Pleating: Fabric is placed in positive and negative paper molds—multiple molds exist for various numbers and styles of pleats.
  • Pleat options include sunburst accordion, box pleats, side pleats, and more (08:58).
• Steaming: Molded fabric is steamed/baked in large “steam ovens” for several hours, then allowed to cool for up to 24 hours to set pleats permanently.

  “He likes to let that cool for 24 hours because that will really set those pleats in.” – Mary (10:15)

• The Big Reveal: Opening the cooled mold is a “magical” moment:

  “The pleated fabric fell out... perfectly pleated.” – Mary (11:39)

4. Choosing Pleats, Fabrics & Garment Types

• Versatility: Any garment—pants, skirts, tops—can include pleating for added impact.
• Fabric Sources: Pleaters can advise on suitable fabrics or provide them; Japanese polyesters often yield the best results (13:13).
• Decision Making: George works closely with home sewists to help choose pleat styles, spacing, and fabric, demystifying what can feel like a high-end, intimidating process.

5. Notable Historical Project: Replicating Fortuny Pleats for the Met

• Challenge: Replicating the “secret” Fortuny pleating technique for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, described as a multi-step, multi-mold process in George’s book.

  “They pleat the fabric once and then... run it through a different mold and they pleat it again... maybe even pleat it a third time just to get that very unique texture.” – Mary (17:51)

6. Advice for First-Time Pleaters

• Inspiration: Start by browsing Instagram for pleated garment ideas.
• Practicality: Pleated garments are more durable and manageable than you might think—they can be machine-washed and are easy to travel with.

  “The garments are very packable, washable, very easy to take care of, and they’re not something delicate...” – Mary (21:07)

• Budget: Professional pleating is more affordable than many expect. George is flexible and budget-conscious for home sewists.

7. Garment Fitting & Patterns

• Ease of Construction: Pants are delivered pre-cut in basic shapes (front and back crotch curves). Adjustments for fit and detailed instructions are provided in Mary’s Threads Magazine article.
• Fabric Width Consideration: 54-inch fabric recommended for floor-length styles; narrower fabric limits the garment’s length (22:50).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Professional Pleating:

  “It’s so much easier, and I think well worth the small additional charge just to send him the unpleated fabric and tell him to cut it.” – Mary (04:55)

• On the Reveal:

  “The pleated fabric fell out. And it was, you know, perfectly pleated. And, you know, the pleats beautifully lined up...” – Mary (11:39)

• Advice to Home Sewists:

  “He is very happy to work with you. This is not somebody that only wants large production orders… extremely helpful in deciding what will work best in your fabric, what kind of look you want.” – Mary (14:54)

• On Care & Practicality:

  “By the end of the evening, the whole bottom of the dress was totally covered in sand... but I dumped it into the laundry sink… and it was perfect.” – Mary (21:07)

• On Inspiration and Next Steps:

  “George's Instagram page is wonderful for just getting some inspiration on possible styles. You don't necessarily have to pleat an entire garment.” – Mary (19:19)

Important Timestamps

• 01:48 – Mary shares inspiration for pleated pants project
• 03:29 – George’s cutting process and fabric advice
• 04:55 – Advantages of professional cutting and pleating studio walkthrough
• 08:01 – How pleating molds work and choosing pleat density
• 10:15 – The steaming and cooling process
• 11:39 – The big reveal: seeing finished pleats
• 13:13 – Fabric selection advice and sourcing
• 14:54 – Working with George as a home sewist; his book and website resources
• 17:51 – Story of replicating Fortuny pleats for the Met
• 19:19 – Tips for beginners and project inspiration
• 21:07 – Pleated garments’ practicality and washability
• 22:50 – Pattern fit, necessary measurements, and fabric width advice
• 24:17 – Where to find Mary online and about her upcoming classes

Additional Resources Mentioned

• Mary Funt’s Blog: cloningcouture.com
• International Pleating Resources: internationalpleating.com
• Book: Fundamentals for Fashion Design by George Kalejian & Leon Kalejian (2017)
• Mary’s Upcoming Classes: Details and sign-up links will be on her website; topics include couture techniques and project-based learning via Zoom and in-person sessions.

Conclusion

Mary Funt demystifies the process of professional pleating, making it accessible for home sewists, and highlights how working with a professional pleater can lead to beautiful, practical, and truly unique garments. The episode is packed with technical details, historical background, and approachable encouragement for anyone curious about adding pleats to their sewing repertoire.