Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads" – Episode 80 Summary

Episode Title: Size-Inclusive Lingerie, with Maddie Kulig
Release Date: August 7, 2024
Guest: Maddie Kulig, Founder of Madeline Intimates

Introduction

In Episode 80 of the Sewing With Threads podcast, Carol Frazier welcomes Maddie Kulig, the passionate founder, designer, and sewist behind Madeline Intimates. Based in Philadelphia, Madeline Intimates specializes in DIY lingerie kits, sewing patterns, ready-made lingerie, and offers a variety of virtual classes, workshops, and retreats. Maddie is also the author of Sew Lingerie, a book that emphasizes inclusivity in lingerie design.

Why Sew Your Own Lingerie?

[01:26]

Maddie Kulig delves into the motivations behind sewing personal lingerie. She shares her personal journey:

• Fit Issues: As a petite individual, Maddie struggled to find lingerie that fit outside of children's sizes. This frustration ignited her passion to create size-inclusive options.

  Maddie Kulig [01:53]: "Being someone who is very petite, I wanted nice lingerie and not sexy lingerie, just nice lingerie. But when I went into the stores they didn't have anything in my size... I ended up the only size that they had was in the teenager section."

• Generational Connections: Many of Madeline Intimates' followers, particularly older individuals, sew lingerie as a bonding activity with their daughters or granddaughters. These projects often extend into swimwear and activewear, utilizing transferable sewing skills.

  Maddie Kulig [02:40]: "It's a great way for moms and daughters to connect... Lingerie can also go into swimwear, too."

Challenges in Sewing Lingerie

[03:27]

Maddie addresses common hurdles faced by those new to lingerie sewing:

• Sourcing Quality Supplies: Finding the right fabrics and trims is often the most significant barrier. Maddie highlights the importance of using high-quality elastics and fabrics sourced from reputable suppliers akin to those used by major brands like Victoria’s Secret.

  Maddie Kulig [03:30]: "What is hard is finding the right supplies... We've worked very hard to source elastics and fabrics from the same vendors that supply Victoria's Secret."

• Pattern Familiarity: Understanding lingerie-specific terminology and quantities can be daunting. Madeline Intimates mitigates this by offering comprehensive DIY kits that include all necessary materials and detailed instructions.

  Maddie Kulig [06:00]: "DIY kits are a great way to get familiar with [lingerie jargon] without feeling overwhelmed."

Inclusivity in Lingerie Design

[09:27]

Maddie's commitment to inclusivity is a cornerstone of her brand:

• Diverse Representation: Her book, Sew Lingerie, features models of various sizes, backgrounds, and experiences, ensuring that everyone feels represented and welcomed.

  Maddie Kulig [09:27]: "Inclusivity is so important to me... when I chose the models for the cover, it was essential to include everyone."

• Gender Inclusivity: Maddie emphasizes that lingerie is not confined to any gender, encouraging all individuals to express themselves through well-fitting lingerie.

  Maddie Kulig [12:00]: "I try to encourage all people to wear lingerie... It doesn't matter who you are or what gender you identify as."

• Emotional Impact: She shares heartfelt stories of customers who felt empowered and included through her inclusive designs.

  Maddie Kulig [12:50]: "One customer texted me saying... 'You have no idea how long it's been since my mom felt pretty.'"

Fitting and Pattern Making

[17:39]

A significant portion of the discussion centers on the intricacies of fitting and pattern making for lingerie:

• Underwire Sizing: There is no standardized sizing for underwires globally, leading to confusion. Maddie recommends purchasing multiple underwire sizes to find the best fit, emphasizing the importance of matching the wire's U-shape to one's inframammary folds.

  Maddie Kulig [18:13]: "There is such confusion around not only the sizing of bras but also the sizing of underwires... I wish that the bra making gods would get together and have some sort of international standard."

• Pattern Adjustments: Understanding foundational pattern-making techniques like slashing and closing empowers sewists to customize patterns for optimal fit.

  Maddie Kulig [16:00]: "Once you know the foundational techniques, you can almost pattern make anything."

• Practical Tips: Maddie shares her methodical approach to fitting bras, including using fitting bands and paper templates to ensure the underwire fits properly.

  Maddie Kulig [21:00]: "Transfer the U shape onto manila or cardstock paper and hold it up to your inframammary fold to make sure that U shape fits."

Design Priorities: Comfort vs. Looks

[25:50]

The conversation explores the balance between aesthetic appeal and comfort in lingerie design:

• Aesthetic Focus: Maddie admits her inclination towards the visual aspects of lingerie, ensuring that designs are both beautiful and functional.

  Maddie Kulig [26:00]: "The designer in me says looks... as long as it's not painful, if the design is incredible, I'm okay with minor fit issues."

• Customer Experience: Carol emphasizes the importance of having lingerie that is both comfortable for everyday wear and visually appealing for occasions.

  Carol Frazier [27:08]: "Everybody should have some underwear that is so comfortable, you're not aware that you have it on... and some that looks amazing."

Advice for Sewers

[24:27]

Maddie encourages sewists to embrace trial and error, highlighting that initial failures are part of the learning process:

Maddie Kulig [24:55]: "Fail is not something to be ashamed of. Fail is the first attempt in learning. So you learn... Move on."

She also recommends starting with simpler projects like underwear bottoms before progressing to more complex pieces like bras.

Carol Frazier [23:34]: "The bras may take a little longer, but the bottoms are a bit easier to do if you get the pattern that fits you."

Notable Quotes

• Maddie Kulig [01:53]: "Being someone who is very petite, I wanted nice lingerie and not sexy lingerie, just nice lingerie."

• Carol Frazier [07:51]: "If you can buy a kit and you can get everything to match, that's really nice. It almost guarantees that you're going to have a product at the end that you think is good looking."

• Maddie Kulig [09:27]: "Inclusivity is so important to me... That is everything to me that you can change someone's demeanor and the way that they look at themselves."

• Maddie Kulig [24:55]: "Fail is not something to be ashamed of. Fail is the first attempt in learning."

Conclusion

The episode concludes with Carol encouraging listeners to explore Maddie’s book, Sew Lingerie, and look out for her upcoming article in the fall issue of Threads Magazine. Maddie expresses her excitement for the feature and the continued promotion of inclusive lingerie.

Carol Frazier [28:07]: "You can read about some bra fitting tips from Maddie... Check out her book for more information."

Maddie Kulig [28:13]: "Thanks so much for having me and I'm so excited to see the feature and the fall issue."

Carol wraps up by inviting listeners to engage with Threads Magazine through comments and subscriptions, reinforcing the community-driven nature of the podcast.

Key Takeaways:

• Sewing your own lingerie offers personalized fit and fosters connections across generations.
• The primary challenges include sourcing quality supplies and mastering pattern making and fitting.
• Inclusivity is paramount, ensuring that lingerie caters to diverse sizes, genders, and personal experiences.
• Balancing aesthetics with comfort can elevate the sewing and wearing experience.
• Embracing failures as learning opportunities is essential for growth in sewing skills.

For those interested in diving deeper into size-inclusive lingerie sewing, Maddie Kulig’s insights and resources provide a valuable foundation.