Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"

Episode 74: Style Falcon Patterns: Designs for Mature Figures

Release Date: February 7, 2024
Host: Carol Frazier
Guest: Diane Scarponi, Founder of Style Falcon Sewing Patterns

1. Introduction to Style Falcon and Diane Scarponi

The episode opens with Carol Frazier welcoming Diane Scarponi, the founder of Style Falcon Sewing Patterns, to the podcast. Diane is introduced as a lifelong sewer dedicated to creating patterns tailored for sewers with mature figures. She leads a team comprising pattern makers, graders, and illustrators, aiming to address the unique needs of older sewers. Diane is recognized by the Sew Over 50 Instagram group's Sew Over Ageism campaign and resides in New Haven, Connecticut with her husband and their poodle, Asta.

2. The Genesis of Style Falcon Patterns

[02:04] Diane Scarponi:
"The high bust in a princess seam almost defeated me... most sewing patterns are not taking into consideration the changes our bodies undergo as we age."

Diane shares her personal challenges with commercial sewing patterns during her mid-40s, particularly struggling with high bust points designed for younger figures. This frustration sparked her journey to develop a new line of patterns that accommodate the anatomical changes associated with aging, such as shifts in waist-to-bust ratios, posture changes, and other physical transformations like childbirth and menopause.

3. Design Philosophy and Features of Style Falcon Patterns

[04:52] Diane Scarponi:
"Style Falcon patterns are built using a mature body for the block, unlike most commercial patterns that target a youthful hourglass figure."

Style Falcon distinguishes itself by starting with a block designed for mature figures, utilizing extensive measurements from a fit model in her 60s. This approach ensures that the patterns cater to the proportionate changes in the body over time, addressing issues like larger waist-to-bust ratios, forward-leaning shoulders, and areas where flesh tends to accumulate as one ages. Additionally, Style Falcon patterns feature large print instructions and bold lines to enhance accessibility for sewers with vision impairments.

4. Team and Comprehensive Testing Process

[11:09] Diane Scarponi:
"I work with Christine Groom, a professional pattern maker, and Brian Lee, a grader from the garment industry, to ensure accurate sizing and fit."

Diane elaborates on her collaborative team, which includes expert pattern makers, graders, and illustrators. She emphasizes the importance of a robust testing process involving approximately 50 testers from six different countries, varying in age, size, and sewing expertise. This diverse feedback loop ensures that each pattern is refined to meet the specific needs of Style Falcon’s target demographic.

5. Addressing Ageism in the Sewing and Fashion Industries

[15:50] Diane Scarponi:
"The Sew Over Ageism campaign highlighted the lack of representation for mature figures in pattern envelopes and inspired us to make a change."

Diane discusses the pervasive ageism in both the sewing and broader fashion industries, where most patterns and ready-to-wear clothes are designed for youthful figures. She recounts her challenges in finding fit models who represent older demographics and credits the Sew Over 50 group for raising awareness and pushing for more inclusive representations. Despite some progress, Diane notes that many companies remain reluctant to embrace mature figures, often defaulting to the traditional youthful hourglass model.

6. Aesthetic Choices and Customization Options

[22:07] Diane Scarponi:
"Style Falcon's aesthetic is akin to a cool college town—versatile and suitable for various aspects of daily life, from work to casual outings."

The design aesthetic of Style Falcon blends practicality with style, ensuring that patterns are both fashionable and functional for everyday wear. Diane highlights the flexibility of her designs, which allow sewers to customize garments through color blocking, trim additions, and sleeve modifications. For instance, her bestselling godet top can be adapted with vertical stripes to create a flattering silhouette for different body types.

[25:57] Diane Scarponi:
"Sleeves are fun to play around with and are easy to hack, allowing sewers to add personal touches without altering the core design."

Diane encourages creativity, providing options within her patterns for sewers to personalize their projects. This includes variations in sleeve styles, the addition of piping, and other embellishments that highlight or modify certain aspects of the garment to suit individual preferences and body shapes.

7. Future Releases and Innovations

[36:17] Diane Scarponi:
"We are excited to release three new patterns this year, including stretch pants with hidden pockets, a zero-waste cardigan, and a duster with a unique collar design."

Looking ahead, Style Falcon plans to expand its collection with patterns that continue to address the needs of mature sewers. Upcoming releases include versatile pants with hidden pockets, a duster featuring harmonious collar and cuff proportions, and a zero-waste cardigan designed for efficient fabric use. These new patterns aim to provide more options and flexibility for sewers seeking both functionality and style.

8. The Story Behind the Name "Style Falcon"

[33:52] Diane Scarponi:
"Inspired by Helen MacDonald's 'H is for Hawk', the name 'Style Falcon' embodies beauty, power, and grace, turning traditional negative bird connotations on their head."

Diane shares the inspiration behind the brand name. Influenced by her admiration for falcons and their majestic presence, she wanted a name that conveyed strength and elegance. Additionally, she sought to reclaim the narrative around birds in language, opposing negative stereotypes by associating her brand with the positive attributes of falcons.

9. Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Carol and Diane wrap up the conversation by discussing the importance of inclusive design and the positive impact of Style Falcon’s approach on the sewing community. Diane invites listeners to join the Style Falcon Flock, her email newsletter group, and highlights special offers and discounts available through collaborations with organizations like the American Sewing Guild.

[38:00] Diane Scarponi:
"Join the Style Falcon Flock for offers, inspiration, and opportunities to connect with fellow sewers. Visit stylefalcon.net for more information."

Carol encourages listeners to explore Style Falcon’s offerings and stay tuned for upcoming pattern releases that continue to support and celebrate mature figures in the sewing world.

Notable Quotes:

• Diane Scarponi at [02:04]:
  "Most sewing patterns are not taking into consideration the changes our bodies undergo as we age."

• Diane Scarponi at [15:50]:
  "The Sew Over Ageism campaign highlighted the lack of representation for mature figures in pattern envelopes and inspired us to make a change."

• Diane Scarponi at [22:07]:
  "Style Falcon's aesthetic is akin to a cool college town—versatile and suitable for various aspects of daily life, from work to casual outings."

• Diane Scarponi at [33:52]:
  "Inspired by Helen MacDonald's 'H is for Hawk', the name 'Style Falcon' embodies beauty, power, and grace, turning traditional negative bird connotations on their head."

Resources Mentioned:

• Style Falcon Website: stylefalcon.net
• Sew Over 50 Instagram Group: Sew Over 50 on Instagram
• Helen MacDonald’s Book: H is for Hawk

This episode of "Sewing With Threads" offers valuable insights into creating inclusive and accessible sewing patterns tailored for mature figures. Diane Scarponi's dedication to addressing the unique challenges faced by aging sewers highlights the importance of diversity and representation in the sewing and fashion industries.