Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"
Episode 77: The Vocabulary of Couture with Susan Kalge
Release Date: May 1, 2024

Introduction

In Episode 77 of the Threads Magazine Podcast, titled "The Vocabulary of Couture," host Carol Frazier engages in an enlightening conversation with Susan Kalge, a renowned expert in couture sewing. Susan, Threads Magazine’s longest-serving contributing editor, shares her extensive background in couture, including her experiences in New York’s small couture houses, her transition to teaching, and her involvement in leading couture-focused trips and online sewing clubs.

Defining Couture and Haute Couture

Susan Kalge begins by elucidating the distinctions between couture and haute couture, terms often misconstrued outside the fashion elite.

• Couture: “Couture really means sewing. That's what it means. That's the French word for sewing.” (02:36)

• Haute Couture: “Haute couture means literally high sewing or sewing on the highest level.” (02:36)

Susan explains that haute couture is a strictly regulated term in France, reserved for ateliers that adhere to specific standards set by a government governing body. This includes having a certain number of workers, participating in biannual fashion shows in Paris, and maintaining meticulous craftsmanship.

Characteristics of Couture Garments

Susan delineates the five critical components that define a couture garment, referring to them as the “couture star”:

1. Fabric: The foundation of couture, requiring high-quality, often luxurious fabrics. “Fabric has to be wonderful. You want this garment to last...” (09:12)

2. Design: The design must be unique and well-conceived, balancing creativity without overwhelming the garment. “Is the design saying enough? Is it saying too much?” (09:12)

3. Fit and Proportion: Precision in fit is paramount, with an emphasis on proportions to ensure elegance. “Fit has to be absolutely right. And part of fit, I always think of... proportion.” (09:12)

4. Engineering: Functional aspects such as structure and support must be expertly integrated. “Engineering plays a part... controlling the layers, ensuring the garment works.” (09:12)

5. Construction: The meticulous assembly of the garment, serving the design, fabric, and engineering elements. “Construction has to serve the design, the fabric, and all of those things, the engineering.” (09:12)

The Couture Process

Susan elaborates on the couture creation process, emphasizing the importance of starting with a muslin (toile) to perfect the fit and design before moving to the final fabric.

• Muslin Creation: “The muslin is your laboratory. It's where you check to see if this is something you want to proceed with.” (13:39)

• Pattern Making: “Once you have your muslin, it becomes your pattern... a very sturdy pattern.” (13:39)

Susan underscores the importance of choosing appropriate fabric weights for muslins to mimic the final garment’s behavior, ensuring accurate draping and fit.

Challenges in Couture Sewing

The conversation delves into the complexities of couture sewing, particularly the challenges of fitting garments and the meticulous control required throughout the process.

• Fitting Challenges: “Fitting is hard. It's difficult to fit yourself... you can visit a professional or use resources like friends or sewing guilds.” (16:01)

• Control Over Process: “Everything you use... serves to give you control over every step of the process.” (34:35)

Susan highlights that successful couture sewing demands a deep understanding of techniques and sustained attention to detail, likening it to gourmet cooking where each step and ingredient is deliberate.

Couture vs. Home Sewing

Addressing the feasibility of achieving couture-level quality at home, Susan is encouraging:

• Achievability: “Absolutely. You can start with an in-depth approach right from the beginning.” (24:09)

• Accessible Techniques: “Techniques like hand basting, inserting zippers by hand, and using grosgrain stays are manageable for dedicated home sewers.” (26:38)

She emphasizes that couture sewing is not reserved for professionals with large ateliers. Home sewers can attain high-quality results by adopting couture methodologies, practicing diligently, and embracing the process's logical and structured nature.

Achieving Couture at Home

Susan provides practical advice for home sewers aspiring to couture standards:

• Start Simple: “You could start with a line skirt or a straight skirt... focus on fitting first.” (24:18)

• Embrace Repetition and Precision: “Repetitive motions... are calming and help master techniques that lead to beautiful results.” (05:26)

• Seek Professional Help for Fittings: “Consider professional fittings to establish a foundation of well-fitted garments that you can build upon.” (27:26)

Susan encourages breaking projects into manageable steps and being patient with the learning curve, assuring that dedication leads to significant improvement and satisfaction.

The Importance of Control and Enjoyment

Central to couture sewing is the concept of control over every aspect of the garment-making process. Susan relates this to the precision required in couture:

• Control Over Fabric and Fit: “You're controlling how the fabric behaves... how it works on the body... the engineering.” (34:35)

• Joy in the Process: “You have to love doing the fold stitch for hours... love the process.” (38:47)

Susan stresses that enjoying each step is crucial for sustaining the meticulous efforts required in couture sewing. This passion fuels the perseverance needed to achieve exceptional results.

Conclusion

Susan Kalge wraps up the discussion by reiterating the accessibility of couture techniques for dedicated home sewers and the profound satisfaction derived from mastering such a disciplined and creative craft.

• Encouragement: “Give it a go. Your results will astonish you and make you want to go further.” (42:32)

Carol Frazier thanks Susan for her inspiring insights, reinforcing the episode's message that couture sewing, while demanding, is an attainable and rewarding pursuit for those willing to invest the time and passion.

Notable Quotes

• Susan Kalge on Couture vs. Haute Couture
  “Couture really means sewing... Haute couture is its own special little universe.” (02:36)

• On the Importance of a Muslin
  “The muslin is your laboratory. It's where you check to see if this is something you want to proceed with.” (13:39)

• On Achieving Control
  “Everything you use... serves to give you control over every step of the process.” (34:35)

• On Enjoying the Process
  “You have to love doing the fold stitch for hours... love the process.” (38:47)

• Encouragement to Listeners
  “Give it a go. Your results will astonish you and make you want to go further.” (42:32)

Timestamp Reference

For easy navigation, here are the key timestamps referenced in this summary:

• 02:36 – Definitions of Couture and Haute Couture
• 05:06 – Comparison with Slow Sewing
• 09:12 – Five Elements of Couture Garments
• 13:39 – The Couture Process and Muslin
• 16:01 – Challenges in Fitting
• 24:09 – Couture Sewing at Home
• 26:38 – Managing Sewing Projects
• 34:35 – Control in Couture Sewing
• 38:47 – Enjoyment in the Couture Process
• 42:32 – Final Encouragement

For more insights and information on Susan Kalge’s work, visit susancalge.com. To join the conversation, send your comments, questions, and suggestions to threadsmagazine.com, and don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe wherever you listen to podcasts. Keep on sewing with Threads!