Podcast Summary: What We Wore – Episode 150: Josh Pattner | Everything But A Super Model

Release Date: October 1, 2024
Host: Laura Vinroot Poole
Guest: Josh Pattner

Introduction

In the 150th episode of What We Wore, host Laura Vinroot Poole welcomes fashion industry veteran Josh Pattner. With an illustrious career spanning roles such as fashion journalist, store owner, designer, buyer, and professor, Josh shares his multifaceted journey through the ever-evolving landscape of fashion.

Early Life and First Foray into Fashion (00:00 - 07:00)

Josh Pattner hails from Chicago, specifically the Hyde Park area near the University of Chicago. Contrary to what one might expect, Josh's early interest wasn't sparked by a natural affinity for fashion. At a young age, his fascination lay in costume design.

Josh Pattner (03:20): "I wanted to be a costume designer from... watching television. I fell in love with clothes by watching shows like Green Acres."

Josh's passion manifested through hands-on experiences, such as sewing and creating costumes using remnants from Marshall Fields and materials gifted by his grandmother. These early endeavors laid the foundation for his later career in fashion.

Education at Oberlin and Initial Career Steps (07:00 - 14:00)

Josh pursued his interest in costume design at Oberlin College. Despite a rocky start—initially disliking the campus and feeling out of place—he grew to cherish his time there and forged lasting friendships.

During his college years, Josh secured an internship at the University of Chicago's Court Theater costume shop, where he worked for Tracy Mills. This position exposed him to high-profile figures in the fashion and entertainment industries, including fitting Mary Tyler Moore for a dress.

Josh Pattner (10:17): "On my first day, Mary Tyler Moore was being fitted for a dress. That already blew my mind."

These experiences solidified Josh's commitment to a career in fashion, navigating the challenging environment of the early '80s New York fashion scene amidst the burgeoning AIDS crisis.

Working at Donna Karan: Lessons and Inspirations (14:00 - 19:00)

Josh recounts his tenure at Donna Karan, where he began as a temporary assistant before proving indispensable through his proactive approach. His ability to organize and streamline processes earned him increased responsibilities within the company.

Josh Pattner (16:31): "Never took no for an answer. Absolutely top of the list."

Working under the formidable Donna Karan, Josh learned invaluable lessons in resilience and leadership. He describes Donna as a larger-than-life figure whose glamorous presence was matched by her tenacity and creative vision.

Tula (19:21): "She was larger, larger than life. Incredible."

Despite the rewarding experiences, Josh ultimately parted ways with Donna Karan due to personal and professional differences, but not before absorbing critical skills in design and management.

Launching Tula: Triumphs and Tribulations (19:00 - 31:00)

Josh and his partner embarked on launching their own brand, Tula, a collection renowned for its beauty and craftsmanship. The journey was fraught with financial struggles, creative conflicts, and the pressures of running a small business in a competitive industry.

Josh Pattner (30:08): "What I wore to prom... I made all four dresses of the dates."

The Tula collection became celebrated for its unique designs, though its launch was a roller coaster of emotions and challenges. The collaborative environment with his partner Brian and the intense workload underscored the complexities of sustaining an independent fashion label.

Reflections on the Fashion Industry and Future Plans (31:00 - 38:07)

Josh offers critical insights into the current state of the fashion industry, emphasizing the need for smaller, more sustainable operations to support emerging designers. He critiques the fast-fashion model and represents a poignant call for a return to more thoughtful, artisanal practices.

Josh Pattner (37:51): "Blowing up, obviously, fast fashion. How much does the Dior bag cost? What are people really going to pay? It's all just become a loony bin."

Looking ahead, Josh expresses a desire to continue contributing creatively, hinting at being in the process of writing a book titled "I Remember Fashion". This memoir aims to encapsulate his extensive experiences across different facets of the industry.

Career Reflections and Personal Insights (38:07 - 44:24)

When reflecting on his diverse career, Josh identifies himself fundamentally as a designer. He draws parallels between various roles he has undertaken, all of which center around the creative process of storytelling through fashion.

Josh Pattner (40:34): "I am, I think, at heart, I'm a designer."

Josh acknowledges moments of regret not in actions taken but in opportunities not pursued, such as declining offers from prominent figures due to ego-driven decisions.

Memorable Anecdotes and Personal Stories (44:00 - End)

The conversation culminates in a heartwarming recount of Josh's high school prom experiences, where he designed dresses for his dates. These personal stories highlight his lifelong passion for design and creativity.

Josh Pattner (43:50): "I made all four dresses of the dates... It was a spaghetti strap camisole with a v neck, two pieces, and a long faux skirt."

Conclusion

Josh Pattner's journey through the fashion industry is a testament to versatility, resilience, and unwavering passion. From his humble beginnings in Chicago to his influential role at Donna Karan and the creation of Tula, Josh's story offers profound insights into the intricate workings of fashion and the personal dedication required to thrive within it.

As he continues to reflect on his past and look forward to future endeavors, Josh embodies the spirit of an industry ever in flux, advocating for a return to craftsmanship and meaningful creativity.

Notable Quotes:

• Josh Pattner (03:20): "I wanted to be a costume designer from... watching television. I fell in love with clothes by watching shows like Green Acres."

• Josh Pattner (10:17): "On my first day, Mary Tyler Moore was being fitted for a dress. That already blew my mind."

• Josh Pattner (16:31): "Never took no for an answer. Absolutely top of the list."

• Josh Pattner (37:51): "Blowing up, obviously, fast fashion. How much does the Dior bag cost? What are people really going to pay? It's all just become a loony bin."

• Josh Pattner (40:34): "I am, I think, at heart, I'm a designer."

• Josh Pattner (43:50): "I made all four dresses of the dates... It was a spaghetti strap camisole with a v neck, two pieces, and a long faux skirt."

For more information on Capitol, Laura Vinroot Poole, and future guests, follow @shopcapitol and @whatweworepodcast on Instagram.