Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: A History of Pockets, Part II: An Interview with Dr. Ariane Fenneaux
Release Date: January 10, 2025
Hosts: April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary
Guest: Dr. Ariane Fenneaux
Introduction to the Episode
In the second installment of their exploration into the history of pockets, hosts April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary welcome fashion historian Dr. Ariane Fenneaux to delve deeper into the evolution and significance of tie-on pockets in European and American women's wardrobes from the 17th to the 19th centuries.
The Significance of Multiple Pairs of Pockets
Dr. Fenneaux begins by explaining why women historically owned multiple pairs of pockets:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [02:44]: "Because you could have different... any linen came in pairs, really, or dozens of pairs really."
Multiple pockets allowed women to switch them for cleanliness or different occasions. For instance, she recounts a Victorian novel where a woman has to change her pocket after a puppy makes a mess:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [02:44]: "A classic example is a story... she has to ask the servant to go and fetch a fresh pair."
In some documented cases, women owned up to 18 pairs of pockets, highlighting their essential role across various social and economic classes.
Contents of Women's Pockets
A pivotal discussion centers on what women carried in their sizable, often detachable pockets:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [05:18]: "Money is one big, a big thing that you find... as well as these removable parts of your dress."
Common items included money, jewelry, removable Garment parts (like cuffs and neckerchiefs), handkerchiefs, letters, diaries, and even unconventional items like live ducks—illustrating the pockets' enormous capacity:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [05:18]: "We have a woman who tries to steal two ducks... though this wouldn’t fit in modern pockets."
Furthermore, duplicates (pawn receipts) played a critical role for poorer women, acting as a form of currency and personal security:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [10:20]: "They held the possibility of the value of the object it stood for... Some women... it was a way of making ends meet."
These duplicates were recognized legally as valid currency, emphasizing their economic importance.
Privacy and Security Concerns
The intimate nature of pockets made them both a vessel for personal items and a target for theft. Dr. Fenneaux discusses the paradox of pockets as private yet vulnerable spaces:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [20:42]: "Pockets are really interesting in relation to privacy... the pocket was an obvious space to investigate."
Incidents of pickpocketing were not uncommon, with thieves adept at accessing pockets hidden beneath multiple layers of clothing. Dr. Fenneaux recounts methods used by thieves, including cutting pocket strings or making slits to extract contents:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [14:36]: "They would lift your gown... sometimes cut the string of the pockets to get the contents out."
Pockets as Tools of Mobility and Independence
Pockets were indispensable for women navigating urban landscapes, serving as portable storage for essential belongings:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [31:17]: "Pockets did not have safe accommodation... They carried what they had... it allows you to move places."
For women in precarious economic situations or employed as servants, pockets provided the necessary flexibility and mobility to manage daily tasks and responsibilities without relying on external storage.
Symbolism and Relationship to Social Movements
The decline of traditional tie-on pockets in favor of handbags coincided with significant social changes, including the women's suffrage movement. Dr. Fenneaux explores the symbolic connections between pockets and women's autonomy:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [43:00]: "There's an interesting dovetailing of issues between women's suffrage... and having pockets or modern day pockets."
She draws parallels between the rhetoric used against women's suffrage and similar sentiments expressed regarding the utility and propriety of women's pockets.
Modern-Day Implications and Pocket Equality
Addressing contemporary concerns, Dr. Fenneaux affirms that modern women's clothing often features smaller or impractical pockets compared to men's attire:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [43:00]: "Modern day clothes, women's clothes are notorious in lacking pockets... Yes, there's a pocket inequality question at the moment."
She references studies showing that women's jeans have significantly smaller pockets than men's, affecting the ability to carry everyday items like smartphones.
Illustrative Case Studies
Two poignant case studies highlight the personal impact of pockets:
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Catherine Eddowes (Victim of Jack the Ripper): Her numerous pockets contained fragmented items reflecting her struggles to maintain dignity amidst poverty:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [26:23]: "She was just living in really unstable, challenging circumstances in London... her pockets were part of that resilience."
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Margaret Deas' Pocket for Annie Sterling (1851): An elaborate, embroidered miniature pocket made by a Glasgow prison inmate, symbolizing personal expression and a small act of autonomy within the oppressive environment of a panoptic prison:
Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [33:31]: "She was creating a space that is her own... regardless of whether she puts anything in it."
Conclusion and Reflections
Hosts April and Cassidy reflect on the enduring legacy and emotional resonance of pockets:
Cassidy Zachary [49:16]: "Historical costumers and dressmakers are making renditions... you too can participate in the tie on pocket trend."
They encourage listeners to appreciate the political and personal dimensions of fashion choices, contemplating how pockets symbolize broader themes of privacy, autonomy, and equality.
Final Thoughts
Dr. Fenneaux’s insights underscore the multifaceted role of pockets in women's history—from practical storage to symbols of independence. The episode eloquently connects historical practices with modern-day fashion debates, inviting listeners to reconsider the seemingly mundane aspect of everyday attire.
For those interested in a deeper exploration, the hosts recommend Dr. Fenneaux’s book, Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives 1660-1900, which features extensive research and over 400 images of historical tie-on pockets.
Notable Quotes:
- Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [10:20]: "Duplicates are recognized in the eyes of a court as having the money that's written on them."
- Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [26:23]: "Her pockets were part of that resilience... trying to keep her appearance, to keep her life together."
- Dr. Ariane Fenneaux [43:00]: "There's a layering of the discourses about having pockets and having suffrage."
Further Engagement: Listeners are invited to engage with Dressed Media through their website, register for fashion history tours, and participate in upcoming live online courses.
This summary encapsulates the rich discussions and profound insights shared in A History of Pockets, Part II, offering a comprehensive overview for those who haven't listened to the episode.