Episode Overview

Podcast: Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: A Life Lived in Fashion with Halston Model, Muse and Archivist Chris Royer, Part II (Dressed Classic)
Air Date: January 16, 2026
Hosts: April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary
Guest: Chris Royer, former Halston in-house model, muse, and archivist

This episode continues a captivating conversation between the Dressed hosts and Chris Royer, a central figure in American fashion, best known as one of Halston's closest collaborators, muses, and a principal archivist of his legacy. The discussion centers on iconic photo shoots (notably the legendary Deborah Turbeville bathhouse spread for Vogue), Royer's experiences as a top model in the 1970s, life within Halston's inner circle, Halston's groundbreaking international "Halstonettes" tour, and Chris’s personal efforts in preserving Halston's oeuvre.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Iconic 1975 Vogue Bathhouse Shoot

[03:10–07:56]

• Background: The celebrated bathhouse shoot for Vogue (photographer Deborah Turbeville, May 1975) is a milestone in fashion photography, featuring Chris Royer front and center.
• Behind the Scenes: The shoot was originally scheduled with Helmut Newton in Monte Carlo, switched to Arthur Elgort in Florida, and finally executed in a cold, dilapidated New York bathhouse by Turbeville.
• Atmosphere: Despite challenging conditions (cold, unheated setting, doused in water to make suits cling), the mood was serene and collaborative.
• Working with Turbeville: Turbeville gave minimal direction, encouraging the models to find their own expressions within the space, resulting in that signature "Debbie mood."
• Memorable Moment:

  "It was so cold...and you got doused with water to make the suits cling to you...We just knew it. This is something that's going to be an iconic picture."
  — Chris Royer ([06:29])

2. Life as a Vogue Model and Collaborations with Fashion’s Luminaries

[08:13–13:19]

• Arthur Elgort: Royer recounts repeated collaborations with Elgort, often marked by spontaneity and a focus on relaxed, real-life poses—sometimes working all night and shooting in unlikely locations (e.g., camper van at 4AM).
• Notable Stories:
  • The “beauty shot” captured impromptu in a camper van—later featured full page in Vogue.
  • A shoot with a dog near Central Park that became iconic after the dog ran circles around her (“only in New York!”).
• Contrast with Turbeville: Elgort favored relatable, direct images, while Turbeville created mysterious, romantic, and often removed scenes.
• Memorable Quote:

  "Arthur was very much about spontaneous shootings...With Debbie's pictures, there was less of an eye contact and more of a very, very romantic process in it."
  — Chris Royer ([12:39])

3. Living the Halston & Studio 54 Era in 1970s New York

[17:05–24:15]

• Insular Social Circle: Life revolved around Halston’s creative team, the fashion world, arts (Andy Warhol, Liza Minnelli), and intimate dinners or events—especially for safety in the dangerous city climate.
• Studios & Social Life: Parties, studio visits, and gallery openings were common, often attended in groups for safety and social cohesion.
• Notable Encounters:
  • Meeting Salvador Dalí: Attending a press conference at the St. Regis, Royer was invited for tea and sketched by Dalí, who dubbed her “the Angel.”
  • Regular Guests: Dinners hosted by Dalí often included Andy Warhol, notable New Yorkers, and Halston’s circle.
  • Memorable Quote:

    "Dalí...sketched you and called me the angel. He said, 'Because your blue eyes are casting, you're looking into the blue heavens.' So that's how I became the angel."
    — Chris Royer ([22:23])

4. The Halstonettes & the Legendary China Trip

[26:52–39:34]

• Origins of the "Halstonettes":
  • Term coined by André Leon Talley for Halston's close-knit group of nine female and three male models (including Royer, Pat Cleveland, Karen Bjornson, and others).
• Global Tour (1979):
  • Six cities, three continents, spanning 24 days—showcasing American fashion in Japan and China (a pivotal cultural/commercial moment).
  • Japan: Treated “like royalty,” grand shows, cultural immersion (geisha dinners, temples, kabuki).
  • China: The trip symbolized China’s opening to the West—Halston’s event drew curiosity, especially as Chinese press and women interacted with American designs for the first time.
• Wardrobe: Each model was custom-outfitted by Halston, with specific attire for different locations/events.
• Historical Impact:

  “That trip was the one that opened the doors, right? For everything...That was the beginning of it all. And Halston knew it.”
  — Chris Royer ([37:00])

• No Sales in China (at the time): The trip was diplomatic and cultural; actual commerce emerged only much later.

5. Archiving and Preserving Halston’s Legacy

[39:34–46:43]

• After iconic pieces “disappeared” from magazine shoots, Royer and Halston began systematically collecting and cataloguing selected garments, some of which were later given to museums.
• The Royer Collection:
  • Focus on garments made specifically for Royer (often original, not production versions).
  • Includes rare examples from Halston’s sportswear line, innovative fabrics like rayon and ultrasuede, and signature design elements (infinity scarves, dirndl skirts).
  • Each piece is “not just beautiful clothing,” but rich in personal and design history.
• Memorable Quote:

  “The original samples are the ones that are truly...they were made on the model’s body...That’s a very important sort of part of the design because you see why he did it in that way.”
  — Chris Royer ([41:25])

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments (with Timestamps)

• On the Turbeville Bathhouse shoot:
  “We just moved very quietly and it was very serene. Debbie just kept shooting...and you just fell into this mood, what we called our ‘Debbie moods.’”
  — Chris Royer ([07:20])
• On 1970s New York:
  “My whole life was basically working with Halston Vogue...you'd be working very early in the morning, and then when you had time before collections, you'd go out, there would be all these great social dinners...It was a true New York lifestyle.”
  — Chris Royer ([17:33]–[24:15])
• On Salvador Dalí:
  “He called me the angel. He says, because your blue eyes are casting, you're looking into the blue heavens.”
  — Chris Royer ([22:23])
• On the China trip’s impact:
  “That trip was the one that opened the doors, right? For everything...now that—that's when you say everything's made in China—that trip was the one.”
  — Chris Royer ([37:00])

Important Segments & Timestamps

• [03:10–07:56]: Chris describes the legendary Turbeville bathhouse shoot
• [08:13–13:19]: Stories from Vogue shoots with Arthur Elgort and Turbeville
• [17:05–24:15]: Life in 1970s NYC; Halston’s inner circle and social scene
• [21:58–24:06]: Relationship with Salvador Dalí and his unique Sunday dinners
• [26:52–31:40]: The Halstonettes and Halston’s historic Japan/China tour
• [39:34–46:43]: Chris’s work archiving Halston’s legacy and garments

Conclusion

The episode offers a rare, intimate window into the glittering world of 1970s fashion through Chris Royer’s firsthand stories—from freezing in a New York bathhouse to being sketched by Salvador Dalí, from pioneering international runway tours to meticulously archiving the work of Halston. Royer’s accounts provide invaluable context for the era’s creative vibrancy, Halston’s trailblazing vision, and why the legacy of these fashion moments still resonates today.

For further visuals and behind-the-scenes content connected to this episode, check #dressed301 on Instagram.