Podcast Summary: Dressed in History: 100 Years of Collecting Fashion with Jessica Pushor

Podcast Information:

• Title: Dressed: The History of Fashion
• Host/Author: Dressed Media
• Description: With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day we all get dressed. Join Dressed as we explore the social and cultural histories behind the who, what, when of why we wear.
• Episode: Dressed in History: 100 Years of Collecting Fashion with Jessica Pushor
• Release Date: July 9, 2025

Introduction

In the episode titled "Dressed in History: 100 Years of Collecting Fashion with Jessica Pushor," hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary engage in an in-depth conversation with Jessica Pushor, the collections manager at the Chicago History Museum. Recorded live at the museum, the discussion celebrates a century of fashion collecting and highlights the museum's extensive 50,000-plus piece collection.

Background of the Costume Collection

[05:44] Jessica Bouchor: "We started here in 1932, Phyllis Haley was our first curator, and she was such an incredible force. Without her setting the stage in building the foundation of this collection, it wouldn't be where it is today."

The Chicago History Museum initiated its fashion collection in the 1920s with Charles Gunther's acquisition of various items. Phyllis Haley, who became the curator in 1932, played a pivotal role in shaping the collection. By 1974, the Costume Council was established, reinforcing the museum's commitment to collecting Chicago and American fashion.

[08:58] April Callahan: "What's so fantastic about this collection is you do have the Balenciagas, the Chanels... but then you also have everything down to everyday items of dress."

The Costume Council has been instrumental in expanding the collection through donor balls, where valuable pieces were worn at events and subsequently donated to the museum. This strategy has significantly enriched the museum's holdings over the past century.

Exhibition Highlights

The current exhibition, "Dressed in a Costume Collection Retrospective," showcases select pieces that represent the breadth and depth of the collection.

1. 18th Century Robe Française

[10:16] Jessica Bouchor: "This textile is authentic. It is from the 1700s. It is European made, it is hand embroidered, and the silk is in beautiful shape."

This exquisite robe, attributed to Queen Caroline of England, underwent scrutiny regarding its authenticity before being confirmed as a genuine 1770s garment. The piece was later donated by Bertha Bauer, a suffragette and prominent figure in Chicago.

2. Mary Todd Lincoln’s Dressmaker Piece

[14:13] Jessica Bouchor: "Elizabeth Keckley was... a dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln. She was an enslaved person who, through her skills, was able to purchase her own freedom."

The dress initially believed to be worn by Mary Todd Lincoln is now recognized for its association with Elizabeth Keckley, highlighting the evolving focus in fashion history from garment ownership to the artisans behind them.

3. Men’s Collection: Elgin Watch Company Pocket Watch

[18:24] Jessica Bouchor: "This pocket watch is by the Elgin Watch Company... it's an anti-pickpocketing device."

This intricate pocket watch not only serves as a fashion accessory but also incorporates security features, reflecting the multifaceted nature of men's fashion items in the collection.

4. Paul Poiret's Sorbet Gown of 1913

[24:12] Jessica Bouchor: "This sorbet gown was worn by Anita Carolyn Belair to her friend's debut party in 1913... it is the piece de resistance of our collection."

Paul Poiret's gown is a centerpiece of the exhibition, representing the innovative designs of early 20th-century haute couture. The dress's journey from Anita Belair's wardrobe to the museum showcases the personal histories intertwined with fashion pieces.

5. Christian Dior's 1949 Wedding Dress

[31:16] Jessica Bouchor: "This dress retailed for $3,200 and weighed over 25 pounds. It was restored to its pristine condition despite decades of use."

Christian Dior's wedding dress exemplifies post-war haute couture, emphasizing the meticulous restoration efforts required to preserve such intricate garments for public display.

6. Ann Lowe’s Cotillion Dress

[34:31] Jessica Bouchor: "Ann Lowe was known for making incredible silk roses and foliage. This dress was worn by Carolyn Duke Chaplin at age 17."

Although not currently on display, this dress underscores the contributions of African American designers like Ann Lowe, whose craftsmanship played a significant role in haute couture despite societal barriers.

7. Iconic Monokini by Tony Lee Shelley

[38:30] Jessica Bouchor: "This monokini was worn by Tony Lee Shelley in 1964. She was arrested for wearing it at North Avenue Beach, leading to widespread media coverage."

This piece represents a pivotal moment in swimwear history, symbolizing the liberation of body and fashion during the 1960s. The accompanying photographs provide a visual narrative of the cultural impact of such daring fashion choices.

8. Men’s Burlesque Ensemble by John Neal

[44:53] Jessica Bouchor: "This men's burlesque ensemble includes a beaded thong and was donated by John Neal, a prominent burlesque performer."

Highlighting the often-overlooked aspects of men's fashion, this ensemble celebrates the artistry and performative elements of men's burlesque, expanding the museum's narrative beyond traditional haute couture.

9. Emilio Pucci Hot Pant Jumper

[55:04] Jessica Bouchor: "This magenta Emilio Pucci jumper was discovered in storage. Its unique design makes it a standout piece, though it's challenging to display due to its structure."

This vibrant piece illustrates the museum's ongoing discovery process, uncovering unique garments that add diversity to the collection's representation of fashion history.

Insights and Reflections

Throughout the discussion, Jessica emphasizes the importance of both high-end couture and everyday fashion in understanding the full spectrum of fashion history.

[52:55] Jessica Bouchor: "Our collection is extremely large... over 50,000 pieces. It ranges from high-end couture to everyday fashion, including sneakers like the original Air Jordans."

The inclusion of contemporary items like Air Jordans alongside historic garments showcases the museum's commitment to preserving fashion's evolving narrative.

[60:25] April Callahan: "Jessica, can you put the costume collection's value in a ranking with the rest of the national and international collections?"

[52:55] Jessica Bouchor: "I like to say it's one of the best fashion collections in the world."

Jessica's pride in the collection's breadth and uniqueness highlights its significance not just locally but also on a global scale.

Audience Engagement and Q&A

The live recording featured a Q&A session where audience members posed questions about fashion history, collection management, and career advice.

[50:07] Jessica Bouchor: "Knowing yourself is probably the biggest thing... find what you are passionate about and have the skills to do that."

Jessica offers valuable advice to aspiring fashion historians and museum professionals, underscoring the importance of passion and self-awareness in pursuing a career in fashion curation.

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with reflections on the exhibition's impact and encouragement for listeners to engage with the museum's collection both in person and through its catalog.

[57:48] Jessica Bouchor: "Every day that I'm in the collection, I'm inventorying and finding something new that I fall in love with."

Jessica's dedication to her role as a collections manager shines through, illustrating the dynamic and ever-evolving nature of fashion history preservation.

Final Remarks

April Callahan extends gratitude to Jessica and the attendees, highlighting the successful collaboration and the ongoing journey of exploring fashion's rich history.

[67:09] Cassidy Zachary: "Enemy of My Dreams is available wherever books are sold."

[67:45] Jessica Bouchor: "And there."

The podcast concludes with invitations to follow on social media, explore additional resources, and stay tuned for future episodes, ensuring that listeners remain engaged with the ongoing exploration of fashion history.

Notable Quotes:

• Jessica Bouchor [05:44]: "We started here in 1932, Phyllis Haley was our first curator, and she was such an incredible force. Without her setting the stage in building the foundation of this collection, it wouldn't be where it is today."

• April Callahan [08:58]: "What's so fantastic about this collection is you do have the Balenciagas, the Chanels... but then you also have everything down to everyday items of dress."

• Jessica Bouchor [14:13]: "Elizabeth Keckley was... a dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln. She was an enslaved person who, through her skills, was able to purchase her own freedom."

• Jessica Bouchor [24:12]: "This sorbet gown was worn by Anita Carolyn Belair to her friend's debut party in 1913... it is the piece de resistance of our collection."

• April Callahan [31:16]: "This dress retailed for $3,200 and weighed over 25 pounds. It was restored to its pristine condition despite decades of use."

• Jessica Bouchor [38:30]: "This monokini was worn by Tony Lee Shelley in 1964. She was arrested for wearing it at North Avenue Beach, leading to widespread media coverage."

Exhibition & Catalog: Listeners are encouraged to visit the Chicago History Museum before July 27, 2025, to experience the exhibition firsthand. For those unable to attend, the exhibition catalog offers detailed essays and photographs, serving as a valuable resource for understanding the collection's significance.

Additional Resources:

• Instagram & Social Media: Follow @dresspodcast for behind-the-scenes content using the hashtag #dressed557.
• Exhibition Catalog: Available in the show notes for a comprehensive look at the collection's highlights.
• Bookshop Bookshelf: Over 150 recommended fashion history titles linked in the show notes.
• Patreon & Airwave Network: Options for ad-free listening, exclusive content, and community engagement.

Closing Thoughts: "Dressed in History: 100 Years of Collecting Fashion with Jessica Pushor" offers a rich exploration of the Chicago History Museum's costume collection, blending historical insights with personal anecdotes from Jessica Pushor. The episode underscores the vital role of collection management in preserving fashion's multifaceted narratives and invites listeners to delve deeper into the stories woven into the garments we wear.