Podcast Summary: "Fashion Animals" with Joshua Koecher on Dressed: The History of Fashion

Introduction

In the March 19, 2025 episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary engage in a compelling conversation with Joshua Koecher, an esteemed animal rights activist, menswear designer, and author of the insightful book Fashion Animals. This episode delves deep into the intricate relationship between humans and animals within the fashion industry, exploring historical contexts, ethical dilemmas, and future sustainability solutions.

Guest Background: Joshua Koecher

Joshua Koecher brings a unique perspective as both a designer and an activist. His commitment to animal rights is not only evident in his writings but also embodied in his professional endeavors, notably his vegan menswear line, Brave Gentleman. Joshua’s work seeks to challenge and transform the conventional practices of the fashion industry by promoting ethical and sustainable alternatives.

Motivation Behind Fashion Animals

Joshua recounts the inspiration behind his book, Fashion Animals. It began with a disconcerting image in a fashion magazine: a model draped in a fur coat with kittens crawling around her [07:00]. This juxtaposition of beauty and animal exploitation sparked a critical examination of how animals are valued and utilized in fashion. Joshua states, “This question sparked the entire book to go into this deep dive of looking at the relationship that we have to animals in fashion, in culture, in general” [07:00].

Historical Relationship Between Humans and Animals in Fashion

The discussion navigates through history, highlighting how animal materials have long symbolized luxury and power. Joshua explains that in the Middle Ages, fur garments like Louis XIV’s ermine cape were direct symbols of royal authority and control over nature [07:55]. This historical context underscores how fashion has been intertwined with displays of power and social status.

Carnism and Ideological Influence

A significant portion of the conversation revolves around the concept of carnism, an ideology that normalizes the use of animals for human purposes. Joshua defines carnism as “an unveiling of an ideology about our relationship to animals... we see wearing animals as a natural given” [10:44]. This ideology often goes unquestioned, leading to the widespread acceptance of animal products in fashion without considering ethical implications.

Impact of Fashion on Animal Extinction and Ecology

Joshua provides stark examples of how fashion trends have historically driven species to near extinction. The decimation of the American bison and the European beaver are cited as direct consequences of high demand for their pelts [12:56]. He emphasizes the role of fashion in ecological degradation, stating, “When considering how fashion reshapes ecological landscapes, we must see fashion not as an isolated genre, but as one manifestation of industrial civilization” [32:02].

Fashion Advertising and the Portrayal of Animals

The episode scrutinizes the manipulative portrayal of animals in fashion advertising. Joshua discusses advertisements that romanticize the relationship between humans and animals, masking the brutality behind the materials. For instance, he describes a fur catalog where the cruelty of animal trapping is subtly highlighted alongside the elegance of the fur garments [26:14]. This disconnect perpetuates the aesthetic irrationality where beauty is unconsciously linked to goodness, ignoring the ethical costs [22:39].

Current Environmental Impacts of the Fashion Industry

Moving to contemporary issues, Joshua highlights the environmental toll of livestock production, particularly in the wool and leather industries. He points out that industries like wool farming contribute significantly to greenhouse gas emissions and biodiversity loss [34:37]. Joshua underscores the misleading notion of "sustainable" materials like wool, revealing the hidden environmental and ethical costs [36:15].

Solutions and the Future of Sustainable Fashion

Joshua is optimistic about the future, advocating for innovations in material technology as solutions to the industry's ethical and environmental challenges. He envisions a revolution driven by biofabrication, such as mycelium leather and lab-grown fibers, which promise sustainability without animal exploitation. “We are on the verge of the most exciting innovations in material technology... it makes design more beautiful” [40:43]. Joshua believes that with increased resources and incentives, the fashion industry can achieve ethical and sustainable practices.

Brave Gentleman: A Model for Ethical Menswear

Joshua elaborates on his own brand, Brave Gentleman, which epitomizes his vision for sustainable, vegan menswear. Established in 2010, the brand seeks to provide luxurious, animal-free alternatives in menswear. “Brave Gentleman started in 2010... it's become a proof of concept” [41:46]. He discusses the challenges and triumphs of creating high-quality, ethical fashion products and his continuous search for innovative materials that align with his ethical standards.

Key Quotes

• Joshua Koecher [07:00]: “Ultimately, I dare say that it is never how animals are used in fashion. It is a matter that they are used at all.”

• Joshua Koecher [10:44]: “Carnism is an ideology that was identified and named by Dr. Melanie Joy... we don't often question why we wear animals at all.”

• Joshua Koecher [22:39]: “We live in a culture where beauty is seen as goodness. So we have these beautiful objects and we see beauty as good. But if the process is ugly, how does that change our perception of the final object being beautiful?”

• Joshua Koecher [32:02]: “When considering how fashion reshapes ecological landscapes, we must see fashion not as an isolated genre, but as one manifestation of industrial civilization.”

• Joshua Koecher [40:43]: “We are on the verge of the most exciting innovations in material technology... it makes design more beautiful.”

Conclusion

The episode with Joshua Koecher offers a profound exploration of the ethical and environmental ramifications of using animal products in fashion. By dissecting historical practices, ideologies like carnism, and the present-day impact of the fashion industry on animal extinction and ecology, Joshua provides listeners with a comprehensive understanding of the complex interplay between fashion and animal rights. Moreover, his advocacy for sustainable innovations and his practical example through Brave Gentleman inspire hope for a future where fashion can be both beautiful and ethical. As April and Cassidy conclude the episode, they encourage listeners to reflect on their own fashion choices and the broader implications these have on the world around them.

Further Resources

• Joshua Koecher’s Book: Fashion Animals
• Brave Gentleman: BraveGentleman.com
• Rind – Vegan Cheese Venture: Rind.com