← Dressed: The History of Fashion
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Edu Sci. Please enjoy one of our favorite episodes from the Dressed archive of over 500 plus shows. The history of Fashion is a production of dressed media. With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day, we all at Dressed.
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A
Welcome to Dressed the History of Fashion, a podcast where we explore the who, what, when and why we wear. We are fashion historians and your hosts,
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B
April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary. Dress listeners, welcome back to part two of our installment of Fashion History Terms A to Z. I am super interested to see what you have for Q.
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A
April okay, well, this was a hard one. This was the most difficult one. Q and Y were really hard. So quizzing glasses. Do you want to tell our listeners what quizzing glasses were? Again, we're going back to the Dandies.
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B
Yeah. No idea.
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A
No, no, no. Okay. It's the culture of the Anque moving slightly forward from the Encuyables, which was a subculture right after the French Revolution and they were called Encore, which is the French term for Incredibles, because what they wore was so insane that people just called them the Incredibles. So we've done a two part episode on the movies and which was their feminine counterparts, the Marvelous Ones and the Incredibles. And you can tune back into those episodes. Those were early on 2018 probably, but one of the features of Encu hable Fashion and then a little bit later was a quizzing glass. And essentially what this is, it's a monocle. We all know what a monocle is, right? That singular eyeglass. But it was attached to the end of a stick or a cane.
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B
Yes.
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A
And it was particularly used in the 1810s, in the 1820s. And you'll see it depicted in these fashion plates or illustrations of the Encue hablo in the 1920s. Generally speaking, they were squinting and scrunching their face and wearing it straight into the eye. But in the 1810s and the 1820s, gents had them on sticks. And to be perfectly honest, this was less about correcting one's vision.
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B
I was going to say it's an affectation. It's part of their affectation.
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A
It's performative disdain. We're cooler than you. We're going to inspect you from over here with our little monocle on our stick.
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B
And also a reminder, too, that we've done a two part episode. I think it was two parts on the history of the dude, which is, you know, an extension of the dandy, a cultural phenomenon of the late 19th century that is directly related to fashion before it became related to the Big Lebowski and the performer of our slang speech.
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A
You have also done, too, a really wonderful episode on black dandyism as well. Yes. In the past.
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B
Yes. With Dr. Monica L. Miller and her book Slaves to Fashion. So, yeah, we've actually done. Not necessarily recently, but we have done quite a few menswear episodes, actually. Okay, stop me. I don't think I'm gonna stop you. I started just having fun with fun terms. And I know you've heard of this term, but maybe our dress listeners have not within the context of fashion. Have you heard of a rat?
- [03:57]
A
A rat, Yes. I definitely know what this is. So a rat is. It's also could be sometimes called a bumper, but it's essentially something that women wore in their hair to give it more volume underneath. So it's like a false hairpiece. And this actually has a fascinating, very long history. If. If we go all the way back to the 18th century at the court of Marie Antoinette and women were wearing those insane poofs, there's always some sort of understructure creating that volume. Right. Supporting it. But into the 19th century also, there's this whole side object curiosity of when women would brush their hair. And, you know, when you pull the. Your excess hair that gets caught up in your brush, they would put it into this little ceramic, oftentimes receptacle with a hole on their vanity and keep it so they could build their own rats with their own hair. So it wasn't a padding or gauze or anything. It was actually their own hair that they were then crafting into these little bumpers or rats.
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B
So, yeah, it's a pad made of human hair or wire or other stuffing over which the hair was combed. Popular in the 1860s, especially when women started wearing their hair rolled at the back and sides of their head and something I found really fascinating is that this name, right? Is it related to the animal? Like, how did they come up with this name? And I couldn't actually get to the heart of that, but I did find it. Found it put into an interesting context of other. Of women's hairstyles of the period, thanks to Godey's lady's book in 1864. That's mentioning it within the context of other kind of bizarrely named heracoutrements. And it says the rats are the long frisettes of curled hair for the side rolls. The mice are the smaller ones above them. The cat is for the roll laid over the top of the head. And the cataract is for the chignon at the back of the head, which is sometimes called waterfall cataract and jet d'. Eau. So apparently a game of cat, mouse and rat all happening on top of
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A
ladies heads and a waterfall.
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B
Exactly.
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A
Wow. Yeah. So if you ever see those styles of the late 19th century and women look like they have a ton of hair. Yes, they were absolutely growing their hair really long. So a lot of that is their own. But if you look at fashion magazines from that time period, there's. So there are so many ads for all these hair pieces and also the buying and selling of human hair.
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B
Yes. And this is actually foreshadowing next week's episodes, which are actually exclusively dedicated to 19th century hair dressing practices. So something to look forward to.
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A
Amazing. I don't know about you, Cass, but I have not yet had lunch today, so I'm a tad hungry, so maybe I should put on my sandwich board jumper.
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B
Sandwich board jumper.
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A
Any thoughts on this?
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B
No.
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A
Okay. It is a jumper, AKA sweater, apparently made by joining two oblong pieces of fabric at the shoulders and the waistline. And it's called this because it resembles a sign that was worn historically in the past by people advertising things where it would have a front and a back. And they were called sandwich board signs. But essentially it's a sweater that does that same effect. And the reason why I ended up picking this term for S was the fact that I realized I actually have one of these in my closet. And it dates to the early 1970s. So it's like this khaki sweater and it comes. It's almost like a cape, but it doesn't have sides or arms at all. And it comes probably about 6 inches below my knee. And it has a turtleneck and it just goes over the front and over the back. And then you can, if you choose to attach the front and the back on the sides, at the waist by these little knit, like matching, like, yeah, cincher belt pieces. Or you can just wear it open. And I was like, oh, I have
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B
one of those now. I know, and I'm sure some of our listeners do too. Maybe they have several of these types of pieces and their wardrobes. And now you have another name for
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A
it, Sandwich board jumper. Hmm.
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B
So my next term, again, having to do with the material culture of our day to day lives. And this is self explanatory, but it's interesting in terms of its context of fashion, what a ticket pocket is.
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A
I do know what that is, but you tell us.
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B
It's pretty self explanatory. Right. It's a pocket for your ticket, somebody.
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A
It was a very short time period when these were ever made, really. Right.
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B
Beginning. And I mean, they start coming out in the 1850s and men's fashion specifically, but also in kind of men's, women's riding habits as well. Women who were men's style suiting would have ticket pockets. And during a period when, especially in the latter half of the 19th century when trains became really relevant and very common throughout Europe and the United States, you would need a place, a very special place where you would not lose your ticket, where you would keep your ticket. And they're very specific in where they're located, like the right flat pocket and various places. They're mentioned so many times in things like Harper's Bazaar especially, which before it was exclusively a women's fashion magazine, was more of a societal magazine, as was Vogue, as many of our listeners know. And so you see a lot of references to men's fashion in Harper's Bazaar and reference to ticket pockets and this kind of new material culture that would have come into being in the latter half of the 19th century.
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A
I've actually even seen them referred to at the bottom in the captions of 19th century fashion plates. Every once in a while you'll see a ticket pocket referred to in the context of women's suiting. And I think in particular the one I'm thinking of, off the top of my head, it was women attending an art exhibition. And there's some reference to their ticket pockets, which was in their suits.
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B
So super fascinating.
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A
Okay, back to children's wear here for a brief moment. Say, what do you have for you, April, under waist? Do you know what this was? I did not know we've touched on children's wear previously. So I'm gonna just preface this next entry. I guess I'm gonna call it as being children's wear. But do you know what an underwaist was in the past? Also known as a panty waist, an
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B
underwaist or a panty waist. I'm assuming it's some sort of undergarment, possibly a like boxer type undergarment. I've been meaning to do a history of panties and underwear for a long time, so maybe this will finally inspire me.
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A
Yes, so you are correct on the undergarment front. It was a child's typically cotton undergarment of the late 19th and early 20th century. But what's really interesting about this and I you would know more about this than I do. I think maybe with the invention of elastic and it's prevalence now within kids clothes, this is a moot point. But basically it was a sleeveless button down front top and then around the waistline of said top were buttons and those were meant to button to panties to hold them up with the diapers underneath. This garment is really interesting because now we're starting to eek in the 20th century into the invention of elastic. So sometimes this upper under waist also had elastic garters or tabs to hold up the child's stockings as well.
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B
This sounds incredibly complicated because if you have a little person like I do who's two and is just running around wild, I can't even imagine how you would get them to sit still long enough to do all of these things.
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A
So it was a little undershirt that buttoned down the front and then around the waist of the undershirt it had additional buttons so that you could attach their panties to it. And maybe it also had elastic garters or stockings to hold up their hose.
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B
Seems like a lot fascinating and surely short lived because now of course the snaps are all at the crotch area, right? Because that's the easiest way to get in and out of a diaper. But yeah, that's super fascinating. You admit you had hinted at possibly doing a children's wear episode in the future because there are so many fascinating again, material culture, the material culture of getting dressed. Fascinating for adults and fascinating for children as well.
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A
Yes, I definitely have a children's wear episode coming up and I'll just tease it a smidge. Let's just say it's going to be called bump proof.
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B
The baby can't wait.
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A
What do you have next?
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B
V is for Victorine. Do you know what a Victorine is?
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A
Gosh, I feel like I should, but I do not. Something maybe is rolling around in the back of my brain that it maybe has something to do with a yoke style of a woman's dress.
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B
You're not far off, not entirely, but you're close, so I'll give you a hint. It's named after a very famous fashion influencer and royal of the 19th century who spurred more than one fashion trend bearing her name, including this particular item, which is defined thanks to a Harper's Bazaar article I found on the Follies of fashion from 1884, which I actually might do a podcast episode on this Follies of Fashion. It's a regular column in Harper's Bazaar, and this particular one derides fashion as the, quote, tyrant of fops and females. Before giving us a historic survey of fashion's most notable offenses, which included various 18th century fashion and beauty devices, including hoops, panniers, the use of lemon by 18th century ladies to redden their lips. There's all kinds of really fascinating little
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A
anecdotes in their eyeball before they went into a ball, which is in etiquette books. Squeeze lemon juice in your eyes to make them sparkle before you go into the party.
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B
And the author talks about how, quote, we've seen several examples of the influence possessed by the world's great ones in making a certain mode of dress, however absurd, the prevailing fashion. For this reason, many articles of apparel have taken their names from noted persons. Thus we have the derby hat and scarf, the Byron collar, the Wellington boot, the Prince Albert coat, and it concludes with the Victorine, which of course is named after Queen Victoria.
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A
Victoria. Can I put another guess forward? Sure. At this point. Okay. Is it a shawl of some type?
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B
Yes, it's a peculiar, as Harper's Bazaar describes, a peculiar fur cape named after Queen Victoria. But what's fascinating is because you know how we love getting in to the ProQuest search in these archives. There's very various incarnations of it beginning in the 1850s. So the one illustrated version I found was actually from 1894. So a short shoulder cape that had tabards that extended almost to the floor. And this particular one, it is for seal skin with an edging of chinchillas. So apparently it is a fur cape inspired by Queen Victoria with a very long range of popularity, paralleling the life of Queen Victoria, who did not die until 1901. Very fascinating.
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A
Speaking of the 19th century, do you know what weepers were?
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B
Weepers? I sadly do not.
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A
Well, you would be correct in this inclination that they might have something to do with the culture of mourning, AKA bereavement, because weepers were muslin armbands. Or sometimes hat bands that were worn by mourners in both the 18th and 19th century to indicate that you were in a period of bereavement for. For someone. Also, of course, during these time periods, sometimes people would. Their entire wardrobe would transition into the colors of mourning, depending on what phase of mourning that they were in, depending on how close they were to the individual. If it was a close family member, obviously you would probably be wearing all black and then transition into gray and white and perhaps purple lilac shades in later phases of morning. But if somebody was a distant relative or maybe even a public figure and you wanted to indicate your bereavement in their passing, you might wear a weeper. Just saying.
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B
Fascinating.
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A
Yeah, almost always. They were almost always black in color. But there was a weird caveat that if it was a young girl that was the deceased, you would wear white.
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B
That's super interesting. And again, something that doesn't necessarily survive in our culture today, but was certainly prevalent even until the 20th century, as I'm thinking in terms of the black armbands. So super fascinating. I had not heard of weepers.
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A
I think that whole kind of culture died out in World War I. And there was even magazine articles in the fashion magazines. People were still wearing the College of Mourning during World War I. But also there were entire articles written about how that practice was starting to die out. Because there had been so much death and destruction in the 19 teens that when people were recovering from that time period, they didn't want to see it everywhere in front of them. So that's part of the reason why that died out as a practice a bit.
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B
Yeah, that makes total sense.
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A
Not to end that on a model and note, but what's next? Let's move on.
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B
X is really hard. Was very hard. Especially within the English language. There's a lot of Chinese words that begin with X is what I found. And certainly we could do additions for like different cultures because there's so many different words. So fascinating, but so X. English language, very limited to what I could pick. But have you heard of X ray beauty contests?
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A
I have not. And I am baited breath over here.
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B
Oh, this was totally a thing. Beauty contest culture, really starting in, I think the late teens and early twenties. We talk about this in our two part swimsuit episode. Grew out of boardwalk towns or coastal towns in America wanting to bring tourists in for beauty contests. Right.
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A
Look at the pretty ladies.
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B
They used women and women's bodies. And the judging of women's bodies to bring tourists obviously grew into a multi billion dollar industry that we still are grappling with today. And so chiropractors actually took hold of the beauty contest, the beauty contest event. And this is something I read about in an NPR article by Scott Hensley about the history of X ray beauty contests, which began in the 1920s. So when really beauty contest culture takes off. But apparently bec all their age in the 50s and 60s, when he talks about how contestants were typically judged on beauty and poise posture and then they used X rays to evaluate their spinal structure, the reason seems like a little
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A
bit of quack science infused into a beauty contest over here. I'm. I'm not saying that X rays are chiropractic is quack science, but I'm, I'm just imagining someone being like, how can I promote my chiropractic business?
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B
That's exactly what it was.
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A
Give this beauty contest.
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B
Yes, it was a marketing scheme for sure, and a brilliant one at that because they were very popular. They maybe didn't know as much as they do now about radiation and exposing people to X rays. The article features an interview with Dr. Reginald Hug, who is a chiropractor. And he's talking about how basically chiropracty had a PR problem because in this period in the mid 20th century, they weren't licensed, they weren't necessarily a respected profession in terms of medicine. They're really meaning to justify and validate what they do. And he talks about how this was a great way to get pr that was kind of middle of the road. He says that was that good posture leads to good health and chiropractors were the people to get you on the right path. And then the article goes on to explain that by quote, crowning posture queens, the chiropractors could build goodwill without making waves with traditional doctors. So isn't that fascinating? And also just put it within the larger, longer history of beauty culture and using women's bodies to promote various aspects of various professions, et cetera. It's just fascinating.
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A
More products?
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B
Yes.
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A
Yeah, yeah, absolutely. I mean, we've done that episode on the Duberry beauty course in the past. And so much of that was about posture. So much of that 1930s, 1940s, 1950s discourse about physical health and exercise around women had a lot to do with posture. Not so much in, like, building muscle or working out, but posture was a huge topic of conversation.
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B
So there you have it.
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A
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A
I am approaching my last entry. Are you ready?
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B
Yes.
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A
Okay, because this garment is gonna come at you, not over you. Just saying. Do you know what a York wrapper was?
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B
A York rapper W R A P E R. Yes. So a rapper popular mid 19th century woman's garment worn at home. A York makes me think of England. If it's coming at you, that is where. I have no idea where you're going with this.
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A
Yes, exactly. I would say you get a point for this because rappers were definitely this sort of very informal. Maybe you would wear it in the morning. Your friends were going to come over and have coffee or tea in the morning at home. Informal garment but people can see it. But maybe not more formal friends just very super those intimate in your life, your friends and your family. Closest friends and family. But a York wrapper in particular was back buttoned which is very interesting. So it was a back Buttoned, high necked woman's morning AKA in. In the early time of day, dress of muslin. So you would essentially enter it with your arms out and would go over you and then your ladies maid would button it up the back.
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B
Interesting. There you go.
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A
So it's a very particular form of
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B
mourning dress elite, obviously weeping mourning, but daytime mourning.
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A
Yes.
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B
And we are ending with the letter Z. And April dressed listeners, did you know that zebras have feathers?
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A
Neither did I. Zebras have feathers?
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B
Yes. Zebra feathers is my last term.
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A
I need to know all about this.
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B
Zebra feathers are feathers that have been painted or dyed in two colors. And it's. You can find it as early as 1816 in fashion. Obviously, zebras famously have stripes, two colors, black and white. And so they gave their name to feathers that were artificially painted or dyed to do the same.
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A
So wait, zebras don't actually have feathers?
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B
No, zebras do not actually have feathers, but zebras.
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A
Okay. So in the 1780s, maybe even the 1770s, I can't remember, but there was a zoo at Versailles and some diplomatic gift was given to Louis XV of a zebra. And in the 1780s, it spawned this entire trend in fad, in menswear, for zebra striped everything. And we actually have fashion plates in Galerie de Mode of zebra striped stockings for men. So they were wearing their little knee breeches and of course they're wearing stockings underneath, but some of them were zebra striped and we have representations of it in fashion plates.
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B
Super fascinating.
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A
Freaking cool. Yeah. And it's all due to the one zebra who was a diplomatic gift to the king in the Versailles zoo.
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B
Yeah. That's so fascinating.
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A
On that note, an hour in, we've brought you an entire new lexicon of fashion.
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B
We've done it. We have reached the end of the Alphabet. I hope you have had as much fun as we have getting here.
- [26:50]
A
And we hope that you have enjoyed our kind of. I don't know, I guess this is a second reinvention of this same theme of episode cast where we investigate fashion history terms from the paths from A to Z. If you like this episode and you would like us to do a third installment, please just let us know.
- [27:08]
B
Yes. We've had so much fun today going through history and through all of these different archives and texts to find these words for you. So if you have any that you want us to investigate further as well, any bizarre fashion history terms or trends, send them our way. We always love hearing from you.
- [27:24]
A
In the meantime, please just remember that fashion is a language. Next time you get Dressed. Remember, we love hearing from you, so if you'd like to write to us you can do so@hellorusthistory.com or you can also DM us on Instagram restorepodcast, which is of course where you'll find reels and posts accompanying each week's episodes. If you'd like to find content for this week's episodes, which to be a two parter, that can be found at dress 508 and dress 509. We get so many questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books, so if you're interested you can always find a link in our show Notes to our Bookshop Bookshelf. So that address is bookshop.org shop dressed and there you can find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles.
- [28:19]
B
You can also find a link to that in our show Notes where you can find a link to dressedhistory.com which of course is our website where you can check out our latest offerings from the dress universe that includes our classes and our tours. So head over to dresshistory.com and see what we have up our sleeves.
- [28:35]
A
Also, you can find out more information about my Fashion History Fridays at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. There you can join me for a 90 minute tour of the Met's most fashionable masterpieces starting in the ancient world all the way into the 20th century. And just teeny little heads up friends. My Met tours in NYC are going to be on pause until late November. You can pick me up late November and into 2025. In the intervening weeks I'll be in Paris and I might just have some Parisian things up my sleeve there as well, but I'll keep you all posted.
- [29:11]
B
Love Dress but want to skip the ads? Consider subscribing to our ad free version of the show for just $3 a month and enjoy our eight new episodes a month ad free. That does it for us today. Dress listeners. Thank you as always for tuning in and more dress coming your way very soon. The History of Fashion is a production of Dressed Media.
- [29:35]
A
Please head to restpodcast on Instagram or Rest podcast without the underscore on Facebook to check out the visual content associated with each week's episodes.
- [29:46]
B
And remember, we always love hearing from you, so if you'd like to write to us, you can do so@hellorusthistory.com DressedHistory.com is also our website where you can sign up for our monthly newsletter, our in person tours and online fashion history courses. And you can check out whatever else we have up our finely tailored sleeves.
- [30:05]
A
We get so many questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books, so if you are interested you can always find a link in our show notes to our Bookshop Bookshelf. So that address is bookshop.org shop dressed and there you can find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles and
- [30:26]
B
do you love Dressed but want to skip the ads? You can now sign up for ad free listening with any tier on our Dressed History Patreon.
- [30:33]
A
We are also excited to now be part of the Airwave Network and their premium ad free history subscription Airwave History plus available on Apple Podcasts. The subscription brings dressed and also 27 other popular history podcasts ad free for just $5.99 per month. More information on Patreon and Airwave is available at the link in our bio.
- [30:57]
B
Thank you as always for tuning in and more Dressed coming your way very soon. The History of Fashion is a production of Dressed Media.
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A
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