Fashion History Mystery #40: What's a Dickie? (Dressed Classic)

Summary

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Podcast Summary: Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: Fashion History Mystery #40 — What’s a Dickie? (Dressed Classic)

Release Date: February 6, 2026
Hosts: Cassidy Zachary (“Cass”) & April Callahan
Listener Question by: Ann Mann

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Episode Overview

This episode is devoted to unraveling the surprisingly complex history of the “dickie,” a garment that is often misunderstood, maligned, or dismissed as antiquated. The hosts, Cass and April, approach the subject with characteristic humor and historical rigor, exploring dickies’ origins, cultural evolution, peak popularity, and their (occasional) present-day revivals. Listeners can expect both personal anecdotes and research-based commentary, all delivered with the duo’s playful rapport.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. What Is a Dickie?

• Definition:
  • A “dickie,” (also spelled “dicky”), is described as a false shirt or shirt front—essentially part collar, part bib—that gives the appearance of wearing a full shirt without the bulk.
  • “It’s kind of part collar, part bib… A collar was attached to a front flap… There weren’t any sleeves and it wasn’t a full shirt.” – April [03:30]
• Clarification:
  • Not to be confused with Dickies, the workwear brand.
  • “We are not talking about Dickies as in the brand of workwear… but rather a form of undergarment, which Women’s Wear Daily neatly summed up in 1945 as ‘flat neckwear to wear under coats or suits’.” – Cass [03:12]

2. Early Origins & Historical Context

• Middle Ages:
  • Garments resembling dickies, like the “gimp” seen in a nun’s habit, have been around for centuries. “The curved white panel covering her chest is indeed this type of garment, and it dates back all the way to the Middle Ages.” – Cass [04:14]
• 19th Century Fillers:
  • Part of a broader category of interchangeable clothing accessories called par-dessus (French for “over things”).
  • Helped women modify dresses for time-of-day appropriateness without changing the full outfit: “With a bit of additional coverage, a woman could really adopt her slightly more revealing afternoon dress into an ensemble perfectly appropriate to wear in the morning.” – Cass [07:13]
• Schmisette:
  • A forerunner to the dickie used in women’s fashion to convert more revealing garments for conservative occasions. [07:32]

3. Dickies in Men’s and Children’s Attire

• 19th Century:
  • The term “dickie” appears as early as the 1850s, referring to children’s wear and, specifically, “false shirt fronts that were worn by many, many men throughout the 19th century.” – April [09:20]
• Practical Use:
  • Seen as an economical alternative to wearing a full shirt: “Rather than putting on a clean shirt each and every day… it was more common perhaps for men to just switch out a clean collar… or a false shirt front.” – Cass [09:20]

4. Etymology of "Dickie"

• Origin:
  • The word “dickey” (with a ‘y’) originated in the 18th century, used to reference something “almost over, but not quite”—fitting for a garment that is “almost” a shirt. [15:15 – 16:00]
• 19th & Early 20th Century:
  • The term migrates into wider use, including women’s and children’s clothing, especially in sailor suits or equestrian wear.
    • “Adjustable Dickies and cuffs… are made of some contrasting color, hunting pink, a rich light red being the favorite shade.” – April [16:37]

5. Dickies Peak Popularity

• 1940s Heyday:
  • Dickies were ubiquitous during WWII due to material rationing and the Make Do and Mend movement:
    • “You can change the look of an outfit simply by changing your neckwear or your under thing.” – April [17:55]
    • “Women’s Wear Daily even did this really interesting feature on coordinating printed silk gloves and matching dickies.” – April [17:55]
• Practical for Working Women:
  • Recommended for domestic servants as a cost-effective solution (“a dickie a day”), and for maximizing wardrobe variety. [18:09]

6. Dickies in the 1960s-1970s: Convenience and Cultural Shift

• Ease and Affordability:
  • Dickies advertised in Seventeen magazine in the 1960s, appealing to young women for their “convenience, minimal upkeep… easy to store… no extra bulk.” – April, quoting her mother [18:50]
  • “She was like… the draw of a Dickie was that you could have a lot of them and so you can change your outfit… they looked sharp.” [19:48]
• On Wearing Practices:
  • “If you’re wearing a suit jacket, you couldn’t take it off ever, right?” – April [19:55]
• Decline:
  • By the 1970s, the dickie falls out of fashion, cementing its reputation as an “outdated, fuddy duddy, maybe like older lady fashion” by the 1990s. – April [20:56 – 21:35]

7. Modern Revivals & High Fashion

• Contemporary Examples:
  • Some fashion brands, such as Veronica Beard, offer modern, high-end versions of dickies (like “hoodie dickies”) to “achieve the desired layered athleisure look without the bulk.” – Cass [21:50]

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Personal Experiences:
  • “I hated wearing them. I was really confused by what their purpose was… I’m still a little bit perplexed.” – April [02:54]
  • “Anytime I hear about a dickie… my go to reference for a dickie is National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation… cousin Eddie in all his glory wears a green dickie under a white sweater.” – Cass [02:27]
• On the Evolution of Fashion:
  • “If this sounds like a lot of changing of one’s clothes to you listeners, you would be very much correct… not uncommon at this time for upper and middle class women to change their clothes up to six, maybe even seven times a day during the 19th century.” – April [06:38]
• Mother Knows Best:
  • “She really had nothing but really great things to say about them… at any given time during the 1960s, she probably owned, like, five or six of them… they looked sharp.” – April, quoting her mother [19:48]
• Humor and Wordplay:
  • “A dickie a day. My mind totally just went in the gutter, too.” – April [18:09]
  • “I definitely do not have one in my drawer. Just saying.” – April [22:19]

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Timestamps for Important Segments

• [01:28] — Introduction of the episode’s topic and clarification on “dickie”
• [03:30] — Defining the dickie and its construction
• [04:14] — Historical origins; nun’s habits and the “gimp”
• [07:13] — Dress changes in the 19th century; use of fillers and schmisettes
• [09:20] — Dickie’s usage in menswear and economy of dress
• [15:15-16:00] — Etymology: The origin and early usage of the term “dickie”
• [16:37] — Dickies in children's and women's wear (e.g., sailor suits and riding attire)
• [17:55] — The 1940s; Make Do and Mend, and wartime practicality
• [18:50] — Dickies in 1960s teen fashion and personal anecdote
• [19:55] — Wearing practices and social conventions
• [20:56-21:35] — The decline of dickies and shift to workwear brand popularity
• [21:50] — Contemporary high fashion dickies

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Overall Tone & Style

• The episode is warm, anecdotal, and slightly irreverent, with plenty of personal asides and humor around the garment’s name and legacy.
• The hosts balance in-depth historical research with lighthearted commentary, bringing fashion history to life for both novices and those with prior knowledge.

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Conclusion

Cass and April conclude by noting the enduring nature of the dickie, both as a functional accessory and as a fashion curiosity. From medieval nun’s habits to wartime wardrobes, ‘60s teen style to modern runway revivals, the dickie is a testament to fashion’s cyclical reinvention and the ongoing quest to balance style, comfort, and practicality.

Memorable closing line:
“Seems we have been wearing this historic style for much longer than we have not.” – Cass [22:21]

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For visuals and deeper dives, listeners are directed to podcast social media handles and the show’s website.

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Transcript

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[B]

Dress the history of Fashion is a production of dress media. With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day, we all get dressed.

[A]

Welcome to Dressed the History of Fashion, a podcast that explores the who, what, when of why we wear. We are friends and fashion historians and.

[B]

Your hosts, Cassie Zachary and April Callahan. Cass, I have a question for you. It's a very personal question. Did your grandmother ever tell you about the very first time she got a dickie?

[A]

For those of you so inclined, please get your mind out of the gutter because we assure you this episode is safe for work and your kids in the car. Because today's fashion history mystery is not about what many of our collective grandmas referred to as necking, but it's about neckwear.

[B]

That's right, because today's fashion history mystery question comes to us from listener Ann Mann, who wanted to know about the history of the dickie. And thank you, Ann, because I have to say, I personally have worn a dickie or two in my childhood. Cass, you're many years younger than I am, so did you ever wear a dickie growing up?

[A]

I did not wear a dickie growing up. But I do have to say anytime that I hear about a dickie or my go to reference for a dickie is National Lampoon's Christmas vacation, which I don't know if you've seen.

[B]

I have, but I don't remember. I don't remember the dickies scene.

[A]

So cousin Eddie, in all his glory, wears a green dickie under a white sweater, which is nice.

[B]

Cousin Eddie.

[A]

Yes.

[B]

Yes. Yeah. I mean, as a kid, I hated wearing them. I was really confused by what their purpose was. And, you know, despite the fact that dickies are indeed the subject of today's episode, I'm gonna have to admit I'm still a little bit perplexed. I'm on the fence.

[A]

I know. And just to clarify, we are not talking about dickies as in the brand of workwear, styled pants or overalls, but rather a form of undergarment, which Women's Wear Daily neatly summed up in 1945 as, quote, unquote, flat neckwear to wear under coats or suits, which, in my mind, I.

[B]

That immediately evokes the thought of a scarf. But dickies were, oh, so much more than that. Or maybe we should even say, oh, so much less. Because really, how I would best describe a dickey is that it's a false shirt. It's kind of like a fake shirt. It's kind of part collar, part bib. And dickies were. A collar was attached to a front flap that kind of came down over your chest. And then, generally speaking, it had a similar flap which covered the center back. And the point of a dickey was to create the effects of wearing a shirt beneath a garment when in reality, there. There weren't any sleeves and it wasn't a full shirt because it didn't really envelop the torso. There was nothing there.

[A]

Right. And while this concept may strike many of our listeners, particularly, I should say our younger listeners, as a bit odd, in reality, versions of this G have been worn for centuries, dating all the way back to the Middle Ages. Most of us can probably conjure up a mental picture of a nun's habit. So, you know, the curved white panel covering her chest is indeed this type of garment. And it dates back all the way to the Middle Ages. Called a gimp. And attached to a high collar which covers the neck, a gimp simply ties at the center back, draping over the chest and shoulders.

[B]

Yeah. And fast forward about five centuries, and this type of garment is still being worn in the 19th century. And it belonged to a cat category of dress called par desus in French or kind of like under things in English. So it wasn't quite lingerie. It's not quite an accessory either. And during the 19th century, these sort of interchangeable Collars and also cuffs were frequently used as quote unquote fillers.

[A]

And we've talked a bit about this on the show. But 19th century fashion was strictly ruled by its appropriateness for the time of day.

[B]

Yeah. And I just want to interject here really quick that this intersection of fashion with time is actually going to be the theme of the upcoming exhibition, was going to open at the Costume Institute here in May. And I'm super duper excited about this cast because I have always said, and you have heard me say this before, that if I ever went back to school to get my PhD, that this intersection of time and fashion, that is what I would want to investigate as my course of study. So I digress a bit. We were talking about filler and the time of day.

[A]

Yeah. So during the 19th century, afternoon and evening called for distinct forms of dress which gradually revealed more of the body as the day progressed. So in the morning, a woman would wear a dress with long sleeves which covered the arms down to the wrists. And she usually had a high collar that covered the neck. And then come afternoon, she may change into a dress with a three quarter length sleeve and a more rounded collar that reveals more of the neck. And then followed by evening engagements where the body could be quite more revealed with, you know, copious amounts of decolletage being revealed, the chest on display with short sleeve bodices that barely skim the shoulders.

[B]

And if this sounds like a lot of changing of one's clothes to you listeners, you would be very much correct because it was not uncommon at this time for upper and middle class women to change their clothes up to six, maybe even seven times a day during the 19th century. I mean, Cass, I'm doing pretty good if I change clothes three times a day. You know, I've got my gym clothes, I've got my day clothes and then I have my pajamas. Okay. Maybe four times a day if I'm like going out for the evening for some thing else, you know.

[A]

Yeah. And of all those changes of clothing, you better bet many women looked for a way to simplify and or economize their wardrobes. And this is where the so called fillers came in. With a bit of additional coverage. A woman could really adopt her slightly more revealing afternoon dress into an ensemble perfectly appropriate to wear in the morning.

[B]

Yeah. And they would. And they would do this by adding half sleeves or cuffs on the lower arm of an afternoon dress so that the arm would be fully covered. They could also add what was called a schmisette, which was kind of the 19th century term for a dickie, it would basically just suitably cover the neck and the collar area. And this whole purpose of this was to style, style your afternoon dress more conservatively so that you could wear it in the morning. And then as the day progressed, you could kind of just take off these little bits and pieces of filler instead of changing your entire outfit at some point in the day.

[A]

The December 1903 issue of Harper's Bazaar recommended dickies on their list of holiday gifts for the season, saying, pretty lace dickies are made of alternate strips of lace entre deux, which is, you know, insertion or something placed between two things and lace and embroidery, and are useful with any of the varieties of low cut gowns now seen.

[B]

However, this 1903 mention is far from the first mention of this term dickie in the fashion press. As early as the 1850s, we see this term used in reference to children's wear, particularly for young boys. And the magazine Home Journal wrote this really kind of cute article about age appropriateness in Fashion for boys in 1851. And they say, quote, around 12, the rage for frock coats and high dickies commences. So all of a sudden, at this age, I guess boys are being interested in fashion. That's what I took away from that. But by high dickies, what they're referring to here is almost certainly false shirt fronts that were worn by many, many men throughout the 19th century.

[A]

Yeah. So for reasons of economy or ease of care, rather than putting on a clean shirt each and every day beneath your suit, it was more common perhaps for men to just switch out a clean collar, which button the shirt below or a false shirt front and that simply tied around the waist. These false shirt fronts were especially popular for evening wear under tuxedos. And I mean, really at a time when you could never let loose and remove your jacket. So no one would have noticed the difference, right?

[B]

Yeah, for sure. And so like this false shirt front, this terminology seems pretty straightforward. I mean, it's describing exactly what's going on there with that garment, accessory, or whatever you want to call it. But why do we have this other term, dicky? We're going to learn more about the origin of this word right after a brief sponsor break. Dress listeners, if you're on the hunt for pre loved items from your favorite luxury brands, there is no better source than the RealReal. The RealReal has found new homes for over 37 million authenticated luxury items. So they know firsthand the impact resale has on the planet. Rather than producing more stuff. The RealReal is making what already exists new to you.

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[B]

Welcome back. And welcome back to the 18th century because we are just apparently time traveling all over this episode today. Cass I say 18th century because this is when we see the origin of the word dickey and when I say that it's spelled D I C K Y. In the context of the fashion item that we've been talking about so far, it's usually is spelled D I C, K, I, E. So during the latter portion of the 18th century, this word dickey with a y was really used to convey and describe something that was almost over.

[A]

Well, that I guess makes perfect sense since your false shirt is almost over, but not quite.

[B]

Exactly. And so by the late 19th century, the term is used to reference not only menswear, but also children's wear and women's wear and detached adjustable sailor collars on young boys. Sailor suits, which were very popular at the time, were called dickies. And also the lady equestrian was advised on her riding attire by Ladies home journal in 1893. Quote, Adjustable Dickies and cuffs, which button to the jacket with tiny flat pearled buttons, are sometimes used. They are made of some contrasting color, hunting pink, a rich light red being the favorite shade.

[A]

And while the silhouette had changed greatly by 1918, with more and more women giving up the corset, the fad for dickies remained strong. Writes Women's Wear daily in their November 29 issue. Quote, Dickies of contrasting colored cloths are made with narrow flat saucer collars which fasten in back and are used in place of a waistcoat on collarless jackets which have their fronts meeting at the neckline and cutting away gradually to either side to show the full dickey front.

[B]

So fast forward just a bit. And the 1940s may have been the heyday of the dickey, because, Cass, when I was going through all the primary sources, there are the 1940s, there are so many references to dickies in the fashion press at the time and especially during the war years. And I couldn't help but think that this rise, perhaps in popularity during the 1940s, had everything to do with the make do and mend movement, you know, because you can change the look of an outfit simply by changing your neckwear or your under thing. And you could use dickies under suits and you could also wear them under sweaters. So in 1944, Women's Wear Daily even did this really interesting feature on coordinating printed silk gloves and matching dickies.

[A]

And while those were certainly considered luxury items at the time, as silk was rationed during the war, a quote unquote dickey a day, were recommended to domestic servants to wear with their uniforms at the reasonable price of what would be $6 each today.

[B]

Yeah, I have to just say a dickie a day. My mind totally just went in the gutter, too. But one of my very favorite primary sources that I that I found on dickies was actually in Seventeen magazine and it was in 1964, because they had these little advertisements in the back where you could mail order Dickies in Madras plaid for $3, which would have been about $25 today. And I happened to realize that 1964 was about the exact same time that my mom was in high school, so that she probably was the target audience for this advertisement.

[A]

So naturally, you called her and talked all about Dickies.

[B]

Oh, I did. I totally did. We had a whole conversation about Dickies yesterday, and she really had nothing but really great things to say about them. She was like, and I'm quoting her here, she says they were more convenient than a shirt that they were easy to put on, There were no hassle, and they were cheap. And she said that the draw of a Dickie was that you could have a lot of them and so you can change your outfit, which is exactly what we just talked about. And she also said that there wasn't a lot of upkeep. Some of them could be cotton and, like, very fine cotton and very expensive, but others were just, like, really simple knits, and they were cut to look like a turtleneck. And she said they were easy to store. She was like, underneath all these other garments, they were comfortable. There's no extra bulk. And she said that at any given time during the 1960s, she probably owned, like, five or six of them. And she said that she really likes the look. She said they, quote, looked sharp.

[A]

And I'm sure many of our listeners were wondering, if you're wearing a false shirt, what are you wearing underneath?

[B]

Yes, and this is a question that I also asked, and she just said that you just wore your bra or a slip, perhaps. But of course, this also meant that if you're wearing a suit jacket, you couldn't take it off ever. Right? So I was like, in my mind, I was thinking, how many times did a woman accidentally forget that maybe she wasn't wearing a full shirt or a full sweater underneath and maybe put herself in a rather embarrassing situation by starting to take off her jacket. I don't know, maybe this never happened happened, but that. That was a scenario running through my brain.

[A]

And so the popularity of the Dickie began to Wane in the 1970s, and we see significantly less mentions of them in the fashion press by the end of the decade, which is also the same time when Dickies, the workwear brand, begins to pop up a lot, because people had begun wearing the brand in, you know, a fashion context after the company began offering their pants and overalls in more than 24 colors. They even started advertising in Rolling Stones.

[B]

Yeah, so this is like Dickies, the workwear brand now transitioned into fashion, which is kind of interesting. So the late 1970s seemed to be the end of the era of the neckwear dickey. But I did continue to find a few references moving forward to it here and there. For instance, the December 1991 issue of Good Housekeeping had an ad for deluxe Dickies for day and evening wear. But Cass, I have to say the whole thing kind of comes off by the 90s as kind of outdated, fuddy duddy, maybe like older lady fashion, you know.

[A]

Although I have to say that I did a Google search. I don't know if you if you did as well, but there are actually some Dickies that are alive and well in high fashion today.

[B]

Oh, you went down a route that I did not explore. I want to hear all about this.

[A]

Well, the luxury fashion brand Veronica Beard has a Dickie. So you Google Dickies, there's $1.99 versions. You can get them in all the colors of the rainbow. And then you have the 150 to $250 versions by the luxury fashion brand Veronica Beard. So for instance, they have a hoodie Dickie to achieve the desired layered alt leisure look without the bulk. So apparently they're still quite practical today, although we don't necessarily see them as much.

[B]

I definitely do not have one in my drawer.

[A]

Just saying. So, Ann, we hope that answers your question about the history of the Dickies. Seems we have been wearing this historic style for much longer than we have not.

[B]

That does it for us today. Dressed listeners, may you consider the legacy of neckwear in your wardrobe. Next time you get dressed, please head over to Dressed Underscore podcast on Instagram or Dressed Podcast without the Underscore on Facebook to check out the visual content associated with each week's episodes.

[A]

Remember, we love hearing from you Dressed listeners, so if you'd like to write to us, you can do so at. Hello dresshistory.com dresshistory.com is also our website where you can sign up for our monthly newsletter, our in person tours and online fashion history courses. And there you can also check out whatever else we have up our finely tailored sleeves.

[B]

We get so many questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books. So if you're interested you can always find a link in our show notes to our bookshop.org bookshelf so that address is bookshop.org shop forward/dressed and there you will find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles.

[A]

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[B]

Thank you as always for tuning in and more Dressed coming your way soon. The History of Fashion is a production of Dressed Media.

[A]

You.

[B]

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[A]

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[B]

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[B]

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