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- [00:00]
April Callahan
In case you haven't heard, it's officially in Abercrombie Summer. The A and M Vacation Shop has everything on your packing mood board. I desperately need their new one piece, the A and F Marina. It's strapless, so flattering and paired with denim shorts will be my go to beach outfit this summer. Finally, your suitcase isn't complete without finding that dress. You know the one for the photo shoot. Abercrombie's boho dresses have that perfect beachy romantic look. Make it an Abercrombie Summer shot. Their newest arrivals in store, online and.
- [00:29]
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- [00:56]
Cassie Zachary
Dress the History of Fashion is a production of Dream Dress media. With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day, we all get dressed.
- [01:11]
April Callahan
Welcome to Dressed the History of Fashion, a podcast that explores the who, what, when of why we wear. We are friends, fashion historians and your.
- [01:19]
Cassie Zachary
Hosts Cassie Zachary and April Callahan. Dress listeners, we have a little bit of an around the world journey for you today as we bring you our latest edition of Fashion History now, which as always, focuses on the myriad of ways that fashion history is also part of fashion's present.
- [01:37]
April Callahan
That's right, listeners, and today we are going to shine a spotlight on some of our recommendations for documentaries, exhibitions, and maybe even where to do some ethical shopping on today's fashion History now journey, which is going to span not one, not two, but three continents and four countries. So please don your dress detective hats with us us for our international trip. April, where are we off to first?
- [02:04]
Cassie Zachary
Okay, I will give you a little bit of a clue up front that we are headed to Mexico. But first I want to ask you, are you familiar with the name Maria Lorena Ramirez?
- [02:15]
April Callahan
I am, but I'm super excited for you to tell us more about this incredible athlete.
- [02:21]
Cassie Zachary
Yes, so she hails from a remote area of the Chihuahua region in Mexico, and while she does make her own clothes, we can't really call her a fashion designer, I would say. But she is the subject of a documentary now on Netflix. Actually, it came out a few years ago, it came out in 2019 and it was produced by one of my all time favorite actors, Gael Garcia Bernal, and it's called Lorena. Light footed woman. Why we are featuring her on dressed might not be exactly what you expected up front, dress listeners, because she's best known as an extremely accomplished and well known long distance runner. And I'm not talking about marathons here, but ultra marathons. So those ones that are like 50 or 60 miles, I mean, if you don't know about this, they're quite literally feats of like extreme physical and also mental endurance. And a lot of these runners, you know, started out as marathon runners and they train for years and years. Some of them have brand sponsorships from running shoe brands and sportswear companies. But that running culture is a whole thing in and of to itself.
- [03:27]
April Callahan
Oh yeah, that's a very specific type of person who can do that, put their body under that amount of stress and endurance. It's incredible. And that is one of the things that makes Lorena, and that's what she goes by, especially distinctive in these ultra marathon communities because she doesn't wear the latest in high tech running shoes or running gear. She's not branded by any of these sportswear companies. She runs in leather huarachas.
- [03:52]
Cassie Zachary
Yes.
- [03:53]
April Callahan
Paired with a blouse and a skirt. And this is a combination that is traditional to the Chihuahua region of Mexico where she hails from the remote community. And I'm going to do my best to pronounce this, please forgive me, Reja Cochi, and is part of the Raramuri ethnic group. And she's now 30 years old. But she first rose to fame in the running community when she won an ultra race in 2017. In addition, of course, to the fact that her distinctive traditional garb obviously set her apart from most of her competitors.
- [04:23]
Cassie Zachary
Yes. And. And running and walking is in her blood, it seems. Not only is her father an ultra runner and documentary, she speaks about how they commonly walk three to four hours in order to purchase groceries and other supplies from the nearest towns. And so this is an incredibly remote region that we're talking about. And this also probably includes fabric and sewing supplies because she also notes in the documentary that her and her mother make all of their own clothes. And within Ramuri culture, this is traditionally a combination of a skirt made from a boldly printed fabric, typically florals, with the wide skirt that kind of has a ruffled hem that hits about 6 to 8 inches above the ankle and the blouse kind of flares out freely at the waist and features bouffant three quarter length sleeves. It's a very distinctive silhouette and it's really quite beautiful.
- [05:17]
April Callahan
And in 2019, the New York Times published an article by reporter Malin Fezahay, who writes that Raramuri women in Chihuahua, Mexico have made an indigenous style of dress a means of famous fighting assimilation. While Radamuri men discard their traditional shirt, cloth and sandals upon arrival to the city in order to obtain jobs in construction, Ramuri women rarely trade their dresses for the uniforms required by employers.
- [05:43]
Cassie Zachary
And Fezah continues that the women's specific style quote dates back to the 1500s when Spain invaded the Sierra Madre Mountains. Throughout the 1600s, Jesuit priests compelled the Raramuri women to wear dresses that fled fully covered their bodies. Over time, Raramuri women adopted cotton fabrics brought over by the Spaniards and made the dresses their own by adding triangle designs and colorful borders. Today, they continue to hand sew the bright floral garments which stand out when the women venture beyond the Chihuahua State funded settlement and into the urban landscape of gray concrete buildings and throngs of people in blue jeans.
- [06:22]
April Callahan
And apparently that extends to ultramarathons too. And we love Lorena's story so much. And there is this one scene in particular in the documentary when she sits on a rock in this pastoral landscape on her family's farm. She opens a box containing a pair of bright red running shoes that she had received recently and then goes to slyly look them over and put them back in the box saying, I don't think I'll use them. The other people that do are always running behind me, which I love. So she really knows that her refusal to abandon her indigenous form of dress is part of her fame. And she says, I do have a special lighter dress for running, but I wouldn't be Larina without the skirt.
- [07:04]
Cassie Zachary
And her renown actually extends beyond the world of running as well, Cass because she was also featured in an editorial spread and on the COVID of the October 2019 issue of Mexican Vogue in her quote unquote running attire. So from being fast on foot to fashion model if you would like to learn more about Lorena's journey, listeners, please check out the documentary Lorena Light Footed Woman which is on Netflix. It is not a full length documentary. It's only about 30 minutes or so, but to be honest, it has been one of my favorite finds to date.
- [07:39]
April Callahan
Yes, and speaking of shoes, listeners get excited for a shopping recommendation coming your way, which our regular listeners will know. We actually rarely give shopping recs on the show as we have a very big sustainability platform. So you know when we give you one that it is it meets all of our values. And we're really excited to tell you about this one today, the very sustainable Tokyo Kimono Shoes and Kimono Reborn Tokyo who are on a mission to repurpose used kimono to give them new life as other types of fashion. The company explains their mission on their website. That quote, in Japan we order and we wear kimono for special occasions, but after the event they are stored in wardrobes often never worn again. Can you imagine that kimono is worth more than 30 trillion yen. So about 220 billion US dollars billion, not million billion are sleeping in wardrobes in Japan. Eventually the kimono will be thrown away as it is no longer needed. Tons of kimono go to waste. Can we discard the crystallizations of the art with the long history? We will connect the beauty by changing forms with our pride. This is our responsibility and it has just started.
- [08:51]
Cassie Zachary
They use retired kimonos to create T shirts, tote bags, hats, backpacks. And these two associated companies are only like a couple of years old. But what really caught my eye, Cass, are their shoes. They are currently available in their Tokyo store now and also available for pre order online as custom creations that will not be made until you place your order. So this is yet another gesture in terms of sustainability that we love. And the company embraces this Japanese concept of motai nai, which essentially says do not waste what is valuable. So Cass, I don't know about you, but I cannot wait to get my hands on a pair of their sneakers. They are part vintage kimono textile obviously and leather. And the kimono textiles are typically sourced from a single kimono and the cutter of the textile chooses what sections to use, which in terms of the cutting process really actually means that no two pairs of the shoes are going to be exactly alike. And they are so incredibly chic. I've already found more than one style combo that I'm really dying to have. And also too they have a lot of very short, fun videos explaining their brands and the process of saving kimono on their two Instagram feeds. And those are Kimono Reborn Tokyo and Tokyo Kimono Shoes which we will also put up in the link to our show notes. And those Instagram feeds also contain links to their own websites.
- [10:24]
April Callahan
Very cool. I will have to check them out.
- [10:26]
Cassie Zachary
You're going to want some too, trust me.
- [10:29]
April Callahan
And while we are in Japan on the subject of kimono, you know, dress listeners that we are always singing praises of available resources or archives on the online sphere that are available to you, we talk frequently about Google Arts and Culture as one of these fantastic resources. Things like the Life magazine keyword search that's available online. The list really goes on. But there is one resource that I actually really love for solid fashion history and fashion history now, content that I do not think we have ever discussed on the show April, and that is LinkedIn. And I don't actually think you were on there, so you might not know what I'm talking about.
- [11:07]
Cassie Zachary
I think technically speaking, I have a LinkedIn profile that I probably not have not looked at in 10 years, so maybe I should just take that down.
- [11:16]
April Callahan
Yeah, I actually suggest getting on there because it is a really, really incredible networking site for people in our field. So I've connected with people, fashion conservators, curators, scholars, historians, makers all over the world. And it really is, I think more than other social media platforms. It kind of is a social media platform in terms of it showing, you know, it has a feed, you can, you can connect with people there, but it's really curated. And I've, I've never really come across a, a post that I don't like because I have selected my network and so there's not really a lot of clickbait or anything like that. But what there is are all of these people with shared interests sharing what they do. And it's a lot of, you know, here's the latest article I wrote or posts of that kind. And LinkedIn is where you will find one of my two follow accounts for this month. You're going to find on LinkedIn the incredible and insightful posts by past dress guests. Keita Motoji, who many of you will remember joined us alongside Mark McNulty last year to discuss Ginza Motoji, which is Japan's premier specialty kimono purveyor founded by Keita's father, a company that he now helps.
- [12:29]
Cassie Zachary
And you will remember from that two part episode on the art of kimono that Mark and Keita are a fountain of information about the historic centuries old techniques, practices and processes that still inform kimonos handcrafted for sale in Ginza Motoji, which is dedicated to preserving these techniques and uplifting and supporting their artisans who are based all across Japan.
- [12:52]
April Callahan
And I just have to say that Keita's LinkedIn posts are fantastic. And he doesn't do this on his Instagram, he has an Instagram as well. But on LinkedIn he often shares condensed versions of long form posts from the Ginza Motoji website, which has a fantastic, incredibly well researched blog that you can check out and have you know, I'll put a link to it in their show notes too, because it really is one of those rabbit holes you can just go down and one of his most recent posts literally stopped me in my tracks because it was this incredibly beautiful, idyllic photograph of two people knee deep in a turquoise blue ocean and they were dying textiles and yes, and the post shares an abbreviated version, as I said, and April and I are going to read some of that to you here. And please again, I did my best to research how to correctly say these Japanese terms, so bear with us here. So the post shares Quote when most people picture kimono, they picture silk. Yet some of Japan's finest summer kimono are woven from choma, a lustrous nettle family fiber cultivated and spun by hand in Okinawa's Yayama Islands, which I'm dying.
- [14:08]
Cassie Zachary
To go to, by the way. Just saying.
- [14:11]
April Callahan
Is that a pun?
- [14:12]
Cassie Zachary
April oh, that was not intentional, but sure.
- [14:18]
April Callahan
And one such cloth is Yayama jofu. After weeks of weaving, each bolt is laid in the shallows of Ishigaki's coral beaches for yuma zarashi seawater bleaching that fixes a deep earthy red brown dye called kuru extracted from wild yam roots.
- [14:37]
Cassie Zachary
The post continues. Quote the sight of pattern fabric rippling in clear turquoise water is as beautiful today as it was centuries ago, but its origins were harsh under the Ryukyu Kingdom's head tax system of the 15th to 19th centuries, whereby every woman between 15 and 50 was required to spin, dye and weave rami cloth as a levy to sats. Out of that adversity came technical brilliance, and in the early 1900s Yama Weavers replaced time consuming hand ties, and that's referring to the cassowary dyeing technique with nascent stencil dyeing, brushing kuru paste directly onto stretched warp threads with a bamboo brush held in a purpose made frame. The result was faster production and explosion of intricate cossuri motifs, many faithfully reproduced from royal design drawings.
- [15:28]
April Callahan
And as the post concludes, today the Ishigaki Island Textile Cooperative is training a new generation of both men and women to master each step, from cultivating choma feel to hand making and spinning choma threads. And their latest project revives a pre nascent pattern from an original 19th century Uzu O E Z u if I mispronounce that, the finished bolt will debut next month at our store Ginza Motoji in Tokyo. From forced tribute cloth to an emblem of resilience and artistry, Ayama jofu shows how craft can carry history forward while embracing innovation. So you see what I mean when I say that these are incredibly insightful and moving posts. I mean, they just do such a wonderful job of bringing it to life for us.
- [16:13]
Cassie Zachary
And also too that dyeing the warp threads. We see this around the world and a lot. Sometimes it's called Ecot. We see it in other southeast regions of Asia as well, but it shows up in many different cultures and it's one of my very favorite things. Okay, well, it seems that we have a lot to get up to when we're in Japan, Cass. When we finally get to go there on our dress fashion history trip, we keep saying this. There are no dates in the works. But don't worry, it is definitely on our future list of destinations and I'm sure that Mark and Keita would make a big appearance on that trip.
- [16:49]
April Callahan
Entrance listeners, we are going to take a brief sponsor break and when we come back we will be heading to our final destinations.
- [17:00]
Cassie Zachary
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- [17:12]
April Callahan
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- [17:29]
Cassie Zachary
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- [17:48]
April Callahan
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- [18:01]
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- [19:34]
April Callahan
Welcome back. So speaking of dressed trip destinations, as we were before the break, my next recommendation is taking us all the way back across the ocean and not far from you, April. We are headed to Brooklyn to learn about my newest miniature obsession.
- [19:52]
Cassie Zachary
Well, let's just say that your obsession with miniatures isn't new. So what I'm getting from this is that this is a a new item or a new genre of miniature that have entered your lexicon of the session.
- [20:08]
April Callahan
Yes. Okay, April, have you heard of Hazel Village?
- [20:13]
Cassie Zachary
Somehow, like it's rattling around in my brain, but. But no.
- [20:17]
April Callahan
Okay. Well, we know we love fashion and clothing companies with a commitment to sustainability, transparency, ethical labor practices. So Hazel Village is one of these companies and it is based in Brooklyn. It's founded by a woman named Jane Van Cleef. She founded in 2010. But Hazel Village is not perhaps the typical ethical clothing maker that we usually feature on the show, but they are one nonetheless because they have an entire line of handmade clothing that goes with their handmade dolls and animals.
- [20:53]
Cassie Zachary
Okay, dress listeners, you can't see right now his cast is holding up. It's a, it's a, it's a doll, it's a stuffed animal type doll and it's a lamb.
- [21:04]
April Callahan
This is Arthur Lamb.
- [21:05]
Cassie Zachary
Yeah. It has on a hat, it has on a shirt with a button, it has on a vest. Is he wearing pants or she.
- [21:11]
April Callahan
I am. And I'm going to tell you all about this because charming does not even begin to describe these products which are technically for children but have a huge following in the adult colle sphere. And when I tell you about all the things I'm about to tell you, you're going to see why. And so my dear friend Akira, and you know him as well, is the director of products. So basically the production manager of this company, he's their director of products. So he makes sure that all of the designers visions get brought to life. And he kindly sent Leo, my son, my 2 year old son, this is Arthur Lamb for his birthday. And I may or may not have stolen it, in fact I have stolen it. So I'm going to break this, this ensemble down for you because essentially they partner with small factories around the world that are engaged in ethical practices and sustainable practices. And so they partner with small factories in places like Peru, Nepal, Cambodia, India, Colombia, all that have social missions or are family owned. So all of these animals are handmade and basically what you do is you go on their website and you pick your animal. So there is Arthur Lamb, but there's also Catalina mouse toad.
- [22:26]
Cassie Zachary
Don't think I'm not on their website right now because I am.
- [22:29]
April Callahan
They're incredibly transparent. They tell you everything about what they do and just how your pieces are made. So just to give you an idea, Arthur is this precious white lamb. He's handmade in Nepal from natural cotton Sherpa organic cotton fleece. His face is hand embroidered with cotton embroidery thread. His ears are lined in a custom woven earthy pink cotton. So you pick your animal and then the best thing is you get to get them dressed. So he's wearing this golden crown that is handmade in Cambodia with two rows of embroidered decorative stitching as you can see. And then he came with this. I'm gonna die when I show you this.
- [23:09]
Cassie Zachary
It has a little bag, it's a.
- [23:12]
April Callahan
Strawberry, this strawberry hand felted bag.
- [23:16]
Cassie Zachary
And it's an actual bag. It opens.
- [23:18]
April Callahan
Yeah. So he's dressed as April described in this billowy shirt with a pearl button because they don't use plastic in any of their products. So he has this pearl button and these corduroy pants. That are made in a factory in Cambodia. But the piece de la resistance is this tiny little vest. It's called the golden hazelnut vest, which I'm just going to die explaining this to you. So they even say on their website that this is one of the most special handicraft creations that the Hazel Village animals have ever been lucky enough to wear. And that is because it is hand embroidered with the tiniest little stitches you've ever seen in your entire life.
- [23:55]
Cassie Zachary
Wow, look at that.
- [23:56]
April Callahan
Look at that.
- [23:57]
Cassie Zachary
Yeah. You guys, this is like one of the best made, high quality examples of a stuffed animal I've ever seen. Just saying. Yeah.
- [24:06]
April Callahan
And it's honestly, I mean, they're not that expensive. This little vest, I think is priced at $22 for a hand embroidered little vest. And you know, this is just a company with heart that is creating high quality pieces that truly cares about their product. And you can see it and feel it, and this is something that you can pass down for generations. So it just made me so happy. Thank you, Akira. Thank you, Hazel Village. You can learn all about them@hazelvillage.com or follow along at Hazel Village on Instagram and we will of course, link to it in our show notes.
- [24:38]
Cassie Zachary
Okay, I just want to say I'm obsessed with the frog, the toad on here. And one of the other pieces of clothing that you can dress your doll in is tail coats. Amazing.
- [24:51]
April Callahan
Did you see all the tiny little hats?
- [24:53]
Cassie Zachary
Yeah, yeah.
- [24:54]
April Callahan
And there's like little patches you can put on their hats. So, yeah. So definitely, definitely check them out.
- [25:01]
Cassie Zachary
Okay. We're not headed very far from Brooklyn for. For my next recommendation, dress listeners, because we are headed to another borough of NYC where we recently hosted our day tours. And if these two exhibitions had been open at the time, we definitely would have visited them. But alas, they were still being mounted, they were still in the works, but by the time this episode airs, they will both be open. So what I have to say to you is get thee to the Metropolitan Museum of Art this summer for a fashion double whammy of not only the Costume Institute's show Super Fine Tailoring Black Style, which opens on May 10 to the public. And of course, this exhibition, this is the one that's associated with the 2025 Met Gala, which was the subject of our podcast earlier this week. So we're not going to delve into that. But also this other exhibition that just opened super recently is Sargent and Paris. And this features nearly 100 works of the artist John Singer Sargent, who we've Actually been speaking about a lot on the show recently, but this is not without intention because I knew the show was coming. So many of you may recall that Sargent was best known as a portraitist and also he was unusually involved as an artist in helping style his high society clients. So it goes without saying that with a hundred pieces of his work in this show, it is a variable fashion feast, especially for us fashion historians. So run, don't walk to go see Sargent and Paris before August 3rd. And also super fine tailoring black style closes on October 26th. So you have until the fall to see that one.
- [26:40]
April Callahan
Yes, and I'm definitely going to have to make my way out there to catch that or both of these exhibitions. Okay. We are headed to the last leg of our trip today, which is going to take us to another fashion exhibition. This time, however, to Antwerp for Momu's Fashion and Interiors A Gendered Affair, which is now in view through August 3rd. So the press release for the show tells us that in 19th century domestic ideology, women played an important role as quote unquote, beautifiers of themselves and their homes. With an eye on comfort, the lady of the house would decorate the interior with soft cushions and textures, drapes, handiwork and all manner of knickknacks. Her body too was weighed down with layers of fabrics and passamentary, with the result that she merged with her interior almost to the point of disappearing altogether. And the visual mergence was given substance by a number of discerning male creatives, including Henry Van der Velde, who started designing women's clothes. In their pursuit of harmony, they unified architecture, furniture, decor, clothing and accessories to create a total work of art. So with this lens, the show contains the work of dozens of designers who have worked in the intersection of fashion and interiors and features the work of many of 20th century's greats like Le Corbusier to contemporary designers by the likes of Ann DeMille Meester and Raf Simmons. But if Antwerp doesn't seem to be on your summer list of destinations, don't fret because this is also accompanied by a catalog which we of course also link to in our show notes.
- [28:09]
Cassie Zachary
Notes.
- [28:09]
April Callahan
Very busy show notes in our fashion history now, so definitely check them out.
- [28:13]
Cassie Zachary
We've been in it for you guys. Friends. Just saying. And we've also now traveled around the world, Cass, so maybe we should share what we have going on in our own dressed universe. So first of all, you've heard us say it recently on the show. We have a newsletter that you guys can sign up for now. It comes out once a month. You can head over to DressedHistory.com to do that. Also to perhaps by the time this episode airs, we are announcing our Patreon long in the works. Thank you, Erin. Thank you, thank you, thank you, our part time assistant Erin, who is our Patreon goddess, for helping us get started with that. And then also we have a little bit of slightly sad news. And it's not forever sad, it's just momentarily sad.
- [28:55]
April Callahan
All Cassidy's fault. Let's just say we got really excited when our fashion history tours in New York ended to go to another city. And so many of you are chomping at the bit. You're ready to go with us. And we desperately wanted to bring you another destination this year. So we put together our Santa Fe trip in the fall and then we realized that that was in like four or five months. Yeah. So all we're doing is pushing it into the early months of next year. So we promise you it's still coming. And a lot of you reached out to us that are excited about that. We are super excited about it. But it's gonna come your way. Not perhaps in October, but earlier in 2026.
- [29:36]
Cassie Zachary
Yeah. So basically we just, we felt like it was too close for you guys to plan. We also felt like even though we had a good idea of what the trip was gonna exactly be, it was just too much too soon. And we had bitten off more than we could chew. So it's still coming.
- [29:52]
April Callahan
And also, I just realized I forgot to share with you all earlier another fashion exhibition that you need to check out, which is Dress a Costume Collection Retrospective, which is that the Chicago history museum until July 27th. And I will actually be in Chicago doing a live podcast recording with the show's curator and the collections manager, Jessica Pusher, on June 10th. So if you want to check that out, we're going to talk all about this incredible collection. It's going to be followed by some light treats and bites and drinks, and then you get to check out the exhibition. So I would love to see you there if you're in Chicago. And you'll find a link to that in our show notes as well.
- [30:30]
Cassie Zachary
Yeah. And I'll just tease this. You're traveling to Chicago and this is our around the world episode. So I will actually be in Australia in late August. I'll be giving a lecture in association with a book launch at the NGV Melbourne. Some of our Australian listeners you may have known that I was supposed to be there a couple months ago, but let's just say United States plus visa issues. So that had to be rescheduled. Essentially, my Australian visa did not come in time to make the lecture, so we have now rescheduled that. I don't know. I know when the date is. Let's just say it's end of August. I don't know if NGV has officially announced it yet, but I will be there. Okay, this has all been very exciting around the world travel cas, but I'm now worn out by all the beauty. So I guess what I'm proposing is that does it for us today. Until next time, may you consider the globetrotting nature of your closet. Next time you get dressed, please head over to restpodcast on Instagram Ordcast without the underscore on Facebook to check out the visual content associated with each week's episodes.
- [31:39]
April Callahan
Remember, we love hearing from you dressed listeners, so if you'd like to write to us, you can do so@helloresshistory.com DressHistory.com is also our website website where you can sign up for our monthly newsletter, our in person tours and online fashion history courses. And there you can also check out whatever else we have up our finely tailored sleeves.
- [31:57]
Cassie Zachary
We get so many questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books, so if you're interested you can always find a link in our show notes to our bookshop.org bookshelf so that address is bookshop.org shop/dressed and there you will find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles.
- [32:18]
April Callahan
Do you love Dressed but want to skip the ads? We are so excited to now be a part of the Airwave Network and their premium ad free history subscription Airwave History plus and this is available on Apple Podcasts and the subscription brings you our podcast as well as 27 other popular history podcasts. Ad free $5.99 per month. More information is available at the link in our bio.
- [32:43]
Cassie Zachary
Thank you as always for tuning in and more Dressed coming your way soon. The History of Fashion is a production of Dressed.