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Cause there's always something new.
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The history of fashion is a production of dressed media. With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day, we all get dressed.
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Welcome to Dressed the History of Fashion, a podcast that explores the who, what, when of why we wear. We are friends, fashion historians and your.
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Hosts, April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary, dress listeners. April, hello.
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Hello.
C
Welcome to another episode of Fashion history now. Number 69 to be exact.
A
Oh, well, very saucy number this episode. And it's been a minute since we've done a fashion history now. Quite a few months. So I bookmarked things and I was going through my items this morning and I was like, oh, I have good content for several Fashion History Nows to come.
C
So I know, it's so funny because I do that too. I bookmark things. I do it a lot through Instagram, I save. And of course I was going back through all those because it's been so long since we've done a fashion history now. I'm like, oh, that exhibit's now closed. Oh, Pierre Paolo, being a point at Balenciaga is now old news.
A
Jonathan Anderson, now being the entire creative director of Dior is now old news.
C
Yes.
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Congratulations, Jonathan.
C
And I am actually quite pleased with what I am seeing so far. It's of course, we're in the midst of New York Fashion Week and all of the fashion weeks to come. So very exciting.
A
I feel like we've turned a corner. Maybe. Hopefully I'm crossing my fingers, right, because I think you and I have been very vocal about the fact that we have been a little bit frustrated with the state of fashion the last few years. So I am ever hopeful that maybe we're shifting gears in a good way.
C
Yeah, I'm very excited to see Piero Paolo's collection for Balenciaga. If you are a listener to the show, then you know that we have been quite vocal in our thoughts of the past creative director. But I think Perra Paolo is the man to do it. He has such respect and reverence for the craft and art of Vaucouture. I am so excited to see what he does with Balenciaga's legacy. So old news, but making it new again.
A
Yeah, we have new news for you today as well.
C
Yeah. So if you're new to fashion history now, this is where April and I bring you things we've read about in the news in the ether, things that are happening now that have to do with the past, present and future of fashion and fashion history. And we always have so many fun things to discuss. And I'm going to start today with a to follow suggestion for Instagram. April, have you ever heard of the Blue Tatter Textile Library in Brooklyn?
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I have not been there, but I used to live right by it and I don't think it was open at that point, but I was like, oh, it's in that building that I used to walk by all the time, but I have yet to experience it for myself.
C
And you should absolutely go check this place out. This is so cool. I've been following their account for quite some time. I did not actually realize that they had an in person space. And I'm going to tell you all about this incredible textile library. So they're on Instagram @tatterblue library. That's t A T T E R. Tatter is a library and arts nonprofit, quote, exploring cloth to tell human stories and cultivate cross cultural understanding. So obviously they're after our own hearts and they are currently on their Instagram account doing a wonderful Back to school Alphabet series and it's just started so you can start following them immediately and start following along. So they've only done a couple posts. So starting with A is for archive, which includes this lovely carousel of images highlighting the exceptional array of objects in the Blue Tatter Textile Library. So the post actually tells us more about this incredible organization which since opening its doors in 2017 has served, quote, as both an interactive, ongoing art installation as well as an academic research library. And their library and archive currently houses, quote, over 10,000 print titles and nearly 3,000 objects devoted to preserving and interpreting global textile knowledge, artistry and history. And then they give us a glimpse into the vast array of objects in this collection. From hand carved Albanian DY staffs to hand stitched cloth dolls, from Hmong story cloths to Armenian lace, our textile archive elevates the universal work of hands making, embellishing, wearing and patching cloth. Something so universal can be thrillingly specific, illuminating cultural, regional and historical context, traditions spanning millennia. And as I said, they just started doing this series. So they've since done three posts in the Alphabet series, which there will of course be more by the time this episode airs. But as of now they have posted B is for button. And these posts are fantastic because in this post, for instance, they provide an overview of the history of buttons which have been in use since at least 2000 BCE, first found in the Indus Valley. And then C is for calico. And this post features a lovely dark blue calico doll's from the late 19th and early 20th century. And it's accompanied by a caption explaining the rich and contentious history of this plain weave cotton cloth that was first produced in India. So the term calico comes from the term calicut, which is the British word for Kolikodi, India, where this cloth was originally produced. And the caption tells us that, quote, in pre colonial India it was used as a base for anything from saris to royal tapestries produced with natural dyes and block prints. Its main exporters, the notorious East India Company Company, popularized the fabric in Europe only to exploit calico weavers and later cut them out completely with the onset of mechanized looms. And eventually calico's popularity led to the British calico Act of 1700, which banned imported textiles in an effort to then support domestic mills, which is just so messed up, they basically went in, stole the technology for themselves and then stopped supporting the local economy.
A
Tail is old as tight.
C
Yes. And then the caption continues. Though temporary, the lack of British sales also completely decimated the Indian textile market, shutting down production entirely for years to come. And then it goes on to explain how British calico, quote unquote, was introduced into the American market, where they became an American staple, particularly among the western frontier and working class. So again, this is all in just this one caption. We're only on C. We have a whole Alphabet to go. But this is such a wonderful resource and I really hope that you will check it out on ig. If you're not on Instagram, you can head to their website tatter.org where you can also find they have this wonderful blog, the Fold, and then you can even register for a private research appointment or online and in person workshops and retreats. So just an incredible place to check out.
A
Yeah, it's been on my bucket list here for a minute. Yeah, we'll have to do something with them. Perhaps maybe a little dressed Tattler collaboration at some point in the future.
C
That could be fun, I think so we have a lot in common, oddly enough.
A
And for those of you who have are just joining us perhaps for one of our very first FHNs, Cassidy and I do not speak in advance about what we're going to talk about. So my first thing that I'd like to talk about today is also textile related, but in a slightly different vein. My first recommendation is actually also an Instagram follow, but as well as a website possible pre order situation and it's pertaining to interior design and wait, you're thinking isn't dressed about clothes? Bear with me friends. I literally learned of this this morning when I stumbled upon one of the most charming interior design ideas by the French textile artist Sarah Espous. And she is making, get this cast clothes, curtains.
C
Interesting.
A
You heard me right. She's making enormous sized shirts, tunics, pants, T shirts that are intended to be used as curtains. And they are so magical. Apparently this was an idea that was launched a few months ago as part of an art exhibition of her work. She works both as a contemporary artist and also like as a practical textile artist. And this exhibition was entitled, titled A well Dressed Apartment and it received such enthusiasm that she's decided to put these curtains into actual production, not just as art objects. So for her art exhibition, the curtains were made exclusively from vintage fabrics. And if you look at the details, these were all hand stitched in such loving detail, she might have used a sewing machine here and there. But you can also tell that a lot of the work was done by hand. One of the diaphanous T shirt curtains, for instance, has little patchwork inserts down the entire front of the shirt. And there's a pair of cream and tan pants that are entirely made up of sheer quilt squares and that has these really deep patch pockets on the front. There's plaid tunics, there's deep gray trousers. And I just want to say that I am deeply in love with this project. It is really, really wonderful. I want some. And dress loose nurses. If you want to check out Sarah's work, you can do so on her Instagram, which is Sarah with an H. And I'm going to spell her last name, which is Espute, which is E S P E U T E. So it's Saraispute all one word. Or you can also head over to the online shop, which is Oeuvre Sensible. And if you don't speak French, don't worry, we're going to put a link in our show notes so you can also check it out there. You can also pre order your own curtain or your own set of curtains, which Sarah describes as, quote, blurring the boundary between fashion and interior design. And I will say this, they're not necessarily inexpensive. They hover around €600 per curtain or maybe just a little bit more. But when you really think of them as she does, as also works of art, paying 6 to $100 for a work of art is quite reasonable, at least in my world. It's a former art gallerist. It is. And you can also check out Sarah's other textile work on the Oeuvre Sensible website. It's very interesting. She does tablecloths, she does wall hanging, she does all different types of things and most frequently they feature her original Noel embroidered motifs. And her tablecloths are especially lovely. So check her out at saraisput. We will put the link to the Oeuve Sensible website in our show notes as well. So get yourself some giant clothes to use as curtain.
C
These are amazing. I immediately looked her up and they're so beautiful. And I love the color palette. And they're very whimsical too, because they're quite large, as you just said. And it never ceases to amaze me how creative people get within the clothing, fashion, textiles, crafts sphere. Just when you think you've seen it all, people are constantly coming up with new ways to use clothing. And it's just so fascinating to me.
A
I think that also too, it's a very straightforward idea. Why have we never seen this before? And that's not to say that it's never been done before, but I haven't seen it.
C
No, I have not either. And although I will say this is reminding me, you all know that probably that I do. I contribute to the Guinness World Record catalog. I've been doing it for. I think this is my third year and it actually just came out. And the red dress, which you've heard us talk about many, many times on the show, is actually there's a whole spread dedicated to Kirsty McLeod Red Dress Project. But what I did not know before getting immersed in this Guinness World Record archive is there are records for world's largest pants. And people have created these ginormous blue jeans, for instance, huge or huge high heels, like a story high just to get in the Guinness World Records. So maybe a little different, but this kind of oversized pant shirt combination is making me think of that. So shout out to Ben at Guinness World Records.
A
Yeah Ben, come back on the show.
C
Oh right. That was super fascinating and not at all where I thought that was going. So thank you for sharing that.
A
What do you have for us next?
C
So I actually have a to read suggestion and of course dress listeners. We place links to all of these things that we discuss in our show notes. So I will place a link to this to read article suggestion. April, I actually have a suggestion for an article that I know you will find particularly interesting as it involves one of your all time favorite topics which is the intersection of textiles and fashion and technology. And do you by chance know the connection between weaving and the historic Apollo missions of the 1960s and early 70s?
A
Does it have something to do with computer technology?
C
It does, yes. So of course these Apollo moon missions that I'm speaking of are responsible for landing the first humans on the moon. And I came across this fascinating article from 2022 which is all about the overlooked role that women played in quite literally weaving the technology used in these landmark moon landings. So this is so fascinating. It's also again a tale as old as time, right? How many historical narratives over the years center the exploits and achievements of great quote unquote men while leaving out the incredibly important people behind the scenes or seams that made it all possible. And more often than not, these people are women exploited historically as skilled but often low paid labor force. And alas, this is another example of one of these stories. But it is still incredibly fascinating and it does seem that more and more of these women are getting their due, or at least more information is coming out about their contribution, including this article by Joy Lisi Rankin, who wrote for Science News. And this article is entitled Core Memory Weavers and Navajo Women Made the Apollo Missions Possible. So just how did they do it? April already hinted at it and I am just going to summarize what is a very detailed article that I will link to. As I said in the show notes, but essentially there were these two groups of women employees that made the moon landings possible. So there was Danae or Navajo women at a factory in Shiprock, New Mexico. And then there was another group of women who were employees of the aerospace and defense company Raytheon, which is located outside of Boston. And I think it's still there actually. So for their part, over 1,000 dine women over a course of 10 years. So from 1965 to 1975, they manufactured state of the art integrated circuits, or what we know today as microchips for the Apollo guidance computer that controlled and navigated these spacecrafts. So this is no small job, right? This is an incredibly important thing that they are doing. And the success of this mission is dependent on this technology that's being produced by all of these women. And while specific weaving techniques were not used by the Danae women in their work, they were used by the women employees at Raytheon who assembled the Apollo guidance computer's core memory, a process that Joy writes directly mimicked weaving. And this is so fascinating. And there's photographs and I will share them on socials this week because I'm sure you're thinking, how do they do this? And she writes that, quote, core memory used metal wires threaded through tiny donut shaped ferret rings or quote, unquote cores to represent ones and zeros. This is going way over my head. And all of this core memory was literally woven by hand with women sitting on opposite sides of a panel passing a wire threaded needle back and forth to create a particular pattern. And then she goes on to say that the core memory was also known as rope memory and those who supervised its development were known as rope mothers.
A
I love that.
C
And then she points out that we do know a great deal about one rope mother and her name's Margaret Hamilton. And that's because she was recognized with the Presidential Medal of Honor from Barack Obama and I believe 2016. She's received numerous awards, but little else is known about the thousands of other women who perform this mission critical work of weaving, integrated circuits and core memory. So again, this is a fascinating history. I will definitely be sharing images of social this week. So look for the hashtag dressed560 and definitely link to this article and read it because you will not be disappointed if you did Dress listers. It goes without saying that a lot of our shopping errands are made easier these days by shopping online. So why aren't you using rakuten? Rakuten is the smartest way to save money when you shop.
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C
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A
I have something also that is a to read, but it is also at the same time a to watch. Next up is not one, but two things near and dear to our hearts on dressed upcycling within the fashion industry and a past dressed guest Cass, did you know that apparently a few months ago there was a collaboration between costume designer Catherine Martin and the fashion brand Miu Miu?
C
I did not, but it is not surprising because she wears Prada and Miu Miu all the time.
A
Yes, apparently Miuccia Prada approached Martin some time back about becoming the next designer to participate in Prada's Upcycled by Miu Miu Project. This has been a project that's been running since 2020. So for the last five years, their very first upcycling upcycled by Miu Miu Project was with Levi's. And as you have already referenced, this is not the first time that Martin has worked with Prada or Where's Prada? Because some of her designs for the Great Gatsby and also Elvis were collaborations with Prada, so there's a working relationship established there already. You of course interviewed Catherine back in 2023 to speak about her body of work, including her work on Elvis. So you guys can tune back in to learn more about Katherine's work. But speaking to Vogue a few months back, Martin explained the inspiration for this new collaboration with Miu Mio. She said it was the idea of the world between wars. You have speaking of World War I and World War II, you have a lot of expat artists like the Fitzgeralds going to live on the French Riviera because it was inexpensive, the weather was beautiful and you got to escape to a more hedonistic place where lots of things were possible. And she goes on to talk about the overall look of this collaboration, this collection. She says these looks speak to the nautical, hedonistic beach culture which was represented so vividly in the photos. Ghosts of this period. So what did she do exactly? She reused jersey knits and denim sourced from vintage pieces. She rescued antique lace from decades old lingerie. And get this, she even upcycled cashmere. And she explained how it was done. She said they can either break down existing yarn and re spin it or just use bits of fluff. They can take those scraps and remake them into garments. Also in this collection, she used vintage silk bed sheets to become dresses. And she goes on to explain, we have used the good bits and then added other bits to make it wearable and precious. So I love this. I love this upcycling. I love the idea, the concept behind this collection. It's very cinematic. And I'm going to get to that here in a second because she also says this collection draws together things that don't necessarily belong together. Lingerie with striped T shirts, denim with evening wear and rowing blazers. These are the clashes of the pretty and the vulgar that are brought together in a really beautiful way, just like it was done in the 1920s and the 1930s. What fascinates me about this collection is its constant juxtaposition of the utilitarian with the precious. There's a lot more to say about this collection. We don't have time to get into it today. We will put a link to the Vogue article in. But you can also see the collection itself because they made a short little fashion film directed by none other than Catherine herself. It's entitled Grand Envy. And this is her directorial debut. And it really kind of launches you into this fantasy world of the luxury set. It's set in a chateau in the south of France, quote, unquote, visually within the late 1920s and early 1930s. So again, you can check it out. All the links will be in the show notes.
C
Oh, that's fascinating. I had no idea that it was her directorial debut. And dressed. As soon as you probably know this, or at least remember from my interview with her, that Baz Luhrmann is her husband and they have been collaborating for years. She costume designs all his films. So the Great Gatsby, Elvis, et cetera. So that's really cool that she's now taken herself into this new. This new field of realm of fashion films.
A
Yes. And it's Short. It's short. I think it's three minutes or four minutes or something like that. But it's beautiful.
C
And starring Willem Dafoe then definitely checking that out. Very cool. And dressed listeners. We kept it short and sweet today because we also have a lot of dressed happenings that we are excited to share with you. We have various things coming down the pipeline this fall including I am actually doing for the first time a local in New Mexico event for my local New Mexico peeps in Albuquerque. I am excited to partner with Luna and Lose which is one of my favorite shops in Old Town Albuquerque run by the amazing Tess. She does these wonderful events and collaborations with creators every month and makers and she so graciously invited me to come. And so I am doing a Vintage Fashion History 101 Hands On Session at Luna and Lou's followed by the launch of my curated vintage collection that I'm going to be selling next door at Old Town Vintage with Lance and Virginia. So I'm very excited to try my hand at doing something local in Albuquerque. Love this community, love the vintage community here and I hope to see you there. And I will put a link to sign up for this event. It's very small, there's only 10 of us and you'll get a touch 100 years of fashion history. I hope you'll consider joining me if you are in the ABQ and this is September 27th.
A
I will be in New York City so I won't be able to make it. But are you going to be talking about identifying vintage, how to care for vintage, identifying designers, what can people expect to learn?
C
Yeah. So it's called vintage fashion history 101. So essentially I'm going to show you by using garments in my collection, 100 years of fashion history. So I'm going to talk to you about the changes in women's fashion over a hundred years starting in 1900 and ending in 1990s and you'll get a hands on experience. And while we're doing that, I'm also going to teach you how to identify vintage. So those of you who are like me who love to go to savers or your local thrift store and what I'm going to teach you what to look for when you are doing this hands on vintage shopping yourself. So you will come away with a lot of knowledge. Cool. And you can sign up@lunaandlose.com and I will say if it does sell out, I'm planning on adding a second session. So just please express your interest in doing that. But Luna and Luz.com that's L U N A and L U Z.com to sign up for my event on the 27th of September. Hope to see you there.
A
Speaking of signing up, my Met tours are back.
C
People have been asking.
A
We have gotten so many emails from you all about when the Met tours are coming back this fall. They are now up and open for registration starting this Friday, September 19th. I don't have anybody signed up for that one yet because I just made them live a few days ago, but some of you have already signed up. For those of you who for future dates, thank you very much. Just letting you all know now that the Met tours are back, they're in effect right now. I just have them on Friday evenings for Friday nights at the Met. When the Met is open late, they start at 6:30pm they run until 8pm The Met is then open for another hour afterwards until 9. So you can stay and view some other exhibitions as well. And I just want to mention that I will do group tours on other days as well, not just Fridays for you all if you want. And I do owe a few of you some emails in response to your requests for group tours on other days, but just let me know. I'm happy to do so. I will be here doing these at least until the end of 2025, so book it now.
C
And also you can head to dress history.com of course to sign up for April's In Person tours. Or you can head to dress history.com and sign up for my online fashion history course that's coming your way. October 16th. I am doing my what Women Wore to the Revolution 1930s-1960s class. Every Sunday for four weeks beginning October 16th, we will explore the evolution and revolution of women's fashion throughout the 1930s, 40s, 50s and 60s. So really the most iconic eras in fashion history. I love teaching this course. We have such a good time so I hope you will consider joining me. And then April, we have some very exciting news coming your way dress listeners in December of this year, which I think we can now probably tell people about.
A
Yeah, I think we mentioned it already on the show because we already have people saying sign me up now put on the list. We have not made registration live yet for our in Person New York City Day tours which are going to be held on December 1, December 2 and December 3. This is going to follow the format that we always do for our New York tours, which is mix and match separates, as we like to call them. Each of those three days will have a completely separate itinerary in terms of what we're doing, where we're going. You can sign up for one day, you can sign up for two days, you can sign up for all three days. Do it however you like. We do not offer necessarily this as a hotel based package because so many of our attendees might live in the New York City region or have friends that they can stay with. So this is just our early December offering of our New York City tours. And last time we did this in the spring, they sold out.
C
Yes, they did. And this is particularly exciting because it's during, of course, the holiday season. So if you are planning a trip to New York or you want to plan a trip to New York to come see all of the wonderful lights, the Christmas lights, this is a perfect opportunity to come here to see the lights and then also get these amazing fashion history, immersive behind the scenes experiences. You really can't get what we offer anywhere else. And that is because, for instance, you get to go on April's wonderful Met tour that she developed exclusively for you. We also get to go behind the scenes at the Antonio Roddy center for a global textile experience. We're going to spend an entire day at the Garment District with some of these storied ateliers, these family owned ateliers who've been here for generations. We get to go in and meet these purveyors and then we spend an entire day at fit. Again behind the scenes. We're always so excited to offer these tours and they're always just so fun. And I learn something new every time myself.
A
Yeah. And let's just say on our Garment District tours, we are adding some new locations, some new ateliers, multi generational family businesses that we're going to be stopping at this year. And I'll just say this. Do you like French lace?
C
Yes.
A
Because we're gonna go see some.
C
The answer is yes. So, dress listeners, thank you for joining us today. Head to DressedHistory.com if you want to sign up for one or any of these offerings. Also, send us an email@hellodressedhistory.com if you want to be the first to know about our New York City day tours coming your way December 1st, 2nd and 3rd of this year, which is a Monday, Tuesday and a Wednesday. And again, check out the hashtag dressed560 for this week's social media content that accompanies this week's episode.
A
I think that does it for us today. Dressed listeners, may you consider the vintageness in your contemporary wardrobe Next time you get dressed, please head to restpodcast on Instagram or essentially Dressed Podcast without the underscore on Facebook to check out the visual content associated with each week's episodes.
C
And remember, we always love hearing from you, so if you'd like to write to us, you can do so at. Hello DressedHistory.com DressedHistory.com is also our website where you can sign up for our monthly newsletter, our in person tours and online fashion history courses. And you can check out whatever else we have up our finely tailored sleeves.
A
We get so many questions questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books. So if you are interested you can always find a link in our show notes to our Bookshop Bookshelf. So that address is bookshop.org shop dressed and there you can find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles.
C
And do you love Dressed but want to skip the ads? You can now sign up for ad free listening with any tier on our Dress Dressed History Patreon.
A
We are also excited to now be part of the Airwave Network and their premium ad free history subscription Airwave History plus available on Apple Podcasts. The subscription brings dressed and also 27 other popular history podcasts ad free for just 5.99 per month. More information on Patreon and Airwave is available at the link in our bio.
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Thank you as always for tuning in and more Dressed coming your way very soon. Dressed the History of Fashion is a production of Dressed Media.
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Mike and Alyssa are always trying to outdo each other. When Alyssa got a small water bottle, Mike showed up with a 4 liter jug. When Mike started gardening, Alyssa started beekeeping.
C
Oh come on.
G
They called it truce for their holiday and used Expedia Trip Planner to collaborate on all the details of the trip. Once there, Mike still did more laps around the pool.
C
Whatever.
G
You were made to outdo your holidays. We were made to help organize the competition. Expedia Made to Travel hey girl, this.
H
Is a legging emergency. My favorite Lululemon leggings. The ones you got me years ago. I think they were lined maybe. Well I just got back from my trip and I think I left them at the BnB. Girl, I need to replace these. Could you send me the link to where you got them? I need a pair asap. Also, my birthday's coming up, so. Anyways, thanks girl. Talk soon. Looking for your newest?
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Go to Lululemon what's New Gear Drops on Tuesdays. Every Tuesday head to lululemon.com to shop what's New Gear.
In this rich and engaging “Fashion History Now” installment, April and Cassidy reunite after a few months away to share fresh discoveries, recommendations, and cultural highlights at the intersection of fashion’s past, present, and future. Their lively conversation brings listeners Instagram follows, deep-dives into textile history and technology, fashion exhibit news, and updates on their own upcoming events and tours.
“Tatter is a library and arts nonprofit, ‘exploring cloth to tell human stories and cultivate cross cultural understanding.’” (04:15)
“They basically went in, stole the technology for themselves and then stopped supporting the local economy.” (07:18)
“She’s making enormous sized shirts, tunics, pants, t-shirts that are intended to be used as curtains. And they are so magical.” (09:19)
“Women sitting on opposite sides of a panel passing a wire threaded needle back and forth to create a particular pattern.” (16:51)
“It is still incredibly fascinating… more and more of these women are getting their due, or at least more information is coming out about their contribution.” (14:36)
“These looks speak to the nautical, hedonistic beach culture … the ghosts of this period.” – Catherine Martin, via April (22:46)
“You'll get a hands-on experience … I'm also going to teach you how to identify vintage.” (27:46)
“Do you like French lace? … because we're gonna go see some.” – April (32:43)
The episode carries Dressed’s signature blend of warmth, curiosity, and intellectual rigor. Both hosts maintain an engaging, collegial tone, peppering their detailed reports and recommendations with personal anecdotes, humor, and clear enthusiasm for their subject matter.
This episode is packed with discoveries, inspiration, and practical opportunities for listeners to connect with fashion history, both online and in person. Whether you’re intrigued by textile libraries, innovative upcycling, or untold stories from the history of technology, this is an episode not to miss.