Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: Fashioning the Gilded Age: Tariffs, Thieves, and TV with Dr. Elizabeth L. Block (Dressed Classic)
Release Date: July 18, 2025

In this captivating episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary engage in an enlightening discussion with Dr. Elizabeth L. Block, exploring the intricate interplay between fashion, economics, and society during America’s Gilded Age. Drawing from her insightful book, Dressing the Women who Influenced French Fashion, Dr. Block unpacks how French haute couture not only shaped American fashion but also interacted with governmental policies and cultural dynamics of the late 19th century.

1. The Grandeur of Haute Couture and American Elites (02:07 - 04:03)

Dr. Elizabeth Block delves into the world of haute couture, highlighting its role as a symbol of wealth and status among America's elite women. Figures like Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt invested exorbitant sums into their wardrobes, with garments serving as both personal expressions and public statements of affluence.

Notable Quote:
April Callahan (02:36):
“Haute couture fashion was an important signifier of wealth and status that was used to great effect by the likes of Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt.”

2. Government Imposition of Tariffs (04:03 - 06:45)

The discussion shifts to the U.S. government's protective stance towards domestic industries through the imposition of tariffs on imported luxury goods. These tariffs aimed to make foreign goods, including high-end fashion items, less accessible to American consumers, thereby encouraging the growth of domestic manufacturing.

Notable Quote:
Elizabeth Block (04:03):
“In the 19th century, this sort of expenditure on foreign goods did not escape the notice of the US Government, who put in place a series of tariffs on various foreign luxury goods meant to deter their import.”

3. The Rise of Smuggling and the Inspectress Profession (06:45 - 09:04)

In response to these tariffs, smuggling of luxury fashion items became rampant. Dr. Block introduces the role of inspectresses—women employed by the Customs House—to enforce these tariffs. These inspectresses leveraged their intimate knowledge of fashion to identify and intercept smuggled goods effectively.

Notable Quote:
Elizabeth Block (05:46):
“One inspectress, Ms. Anna C. Parks, caused the arrest of an Italian woman in whose bustle was found a peck of dutiable jewels.”

4. Ingenious Methods of Concealing Goods (09:04 - 10:26)

The conversation highlights the clever techniques employed by women to smuggle fashion items. Bustles, a popular garment feature of the time, were ingeniously modified to conceal items such as silk, lace, and even beverages.

Notable Quote:
April Callahan (07:15):
“The bustle was one of the most favorite modes of conveying smuggled goods ashore. It was possible for a woman to get in whole pieces of silk and rolls of lace in this way.”

5. High-Profile Cases and Public Fascination (12:32 - 16:36)

A particularly intriguing case detailed by Dr. Block involves Caroline Astor’s French gowns, which were seized due to tariff disputes. Astor’s refusal to pay the excessive duties led to her dresses being auctioned off, garnering significant public and media attention. This incident not only underscored the tensions between American elites and governmental policies but also highlighted the burgeoning relationship between fashion and mass media.

Notable Quote:
Elizabeth Block (15:22):
“The saga of these two dresses by Felix for Caroline Astor played out in the international press over the course of 10 months.”

6. The Proliferation of Counterfeits and Licensing (16:36 - 20:30)

With stringent tariffs in place and intellectual property laws being lax, counterfeit fashion items flourished. Renowned maisons like Charles Frederick Worth adapted by licensing their designs to department stores and magazines, allowing broader dissemination while circumventing import duties. This practice blurred the lines between high fashion and mass production, making couture styles more accessible yet also leading to widespread imitation.

Notable Quote:
Elizabeth Block (17:09):
“In the late 1880s, fake labels began appearing in garments, and Houses like Worth started selling models that could be legally copied by department stores.”

7. The Intersection of Fashion and Law Enforcement (20:30 - 22:11)

The episode further explores how publicized fashion purchases made by wealthy women inadvertently facilitated theft and smuggling. Detailed newspaper accounts of high-profile fashion items provided thieves with valuable information, leading to targeted thefts of jewelry and garments.

Notable Quote:
Elizabeth Block (20:50):
“Edith Kingdon Gould famously had her entire jewelry box itemized in the newspaper, making it easy for people to figure out where to get a diamond tiara.”

8. Modern Reflections: The Gilded Age in Contemporary Media (22:11 - 28:50)

Transitioning to modern representations, the hosts discuss the HBO series The Gilded Age and its portrayal of period fashion. Dr. Block praises the show’s costume design for balancing historical accuracy with creative license, effectively using fashion to reflect character personalities and societal dynamics. She highlights specific costumes and design choices that resonate with the historical context of the era.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Elizabeth Block (23:20):
“Kasia Walika Maimone, who is the costume designer for the show, has done and continues to do a fabulous job of creating period-appropriate garments that also speak to the individual personalities of the characters.”

Conclusion

This episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion masterfully intertwines the opulent world of 19th-century haute couture with the socio-economic forces of the Gilded Age. Dr. Elizabeth L. Block provides a nuanced exploration of how tariffs, smuggling, and the quest for status through fashion shaped not only American society but also the global fashion industry. By bridging historical events with their modern representations, the episode offers a comprehensive understanding of the enduring legacy of Gilded Age fashion.

For more insights into the fascinating intersections of fashion and history, tune into upcoming episodes of Dressed: The History of Fashion and explore additional resources at DressedHistory.com.