Dressed: The History of Fashion — Episode Summary
Title: Fashion's Frontier: Denim
Guest: Emma McClendon, Associate Curator of Costume at the Museum at FIT
Release Date: January 22, 2025
1. Introduction to Denim’s Significance
The episode delves into the intricate history and cultural impact of denim, one of the most ubiquitous garments globally. Hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary welcome Emma McClendon to discuss denim’s evolution from workwear to a fashion staple.
Cassidy Zachary [02:04]: “I’m going to guess that more than one of our listeners today are going to have a real-time, firsthand experience while listening to this episode. Because I bet many, many of you out there are wearing one of the most ubiquitous, ubiquitous garments on the planet. I am, of course speaking of jeans.”
2. Defining Denim: Beyond the Basics
Emma McClendon provides a technical breakdown of what constitutes true denim, emphasizing its specific weave and dyeing processes.
Emma McClendon [05:05]: “Denim is a warp face twill made out of cotton. It’s using a cotton thread for both the warp and the weft threads. And it’s got the twill weave. So it’s really kind of almost ribbed feeling, very structured, very sturdy.”
She explains the traditional blue dyeing technique, which creates the characteristic fade patterns seen in worn jeans.
Emma McClendon [06:30]: “The warp threads are blue... it only seeps through just at the edges, leaving the core of the thread basically white or natural cotton color. And that’s where we get the fade pattern on jeans.”
3. Origins and Myths Surrounding Denim
The conversation shifts to the debated origins of denim, challenging the common belief that denim originated in Nîmes, France.
Emma McClendon [10:48]: “The most popular myth is that it’s French and that the name denim comes from French de Nimes or of Nimes... but it’s thought that denim is most likely actually a British textile.”
She highlights the murky history of denim, noting its presence in early American import manifests and its evolution as a durable workwear fabric.
4. Denim and Americanness: A Complex Relationship
Denim's association with American identity is explored, uncovering the often-overlooked aspects of its history tied to labor and diverse American demographics.
Emma McClendon [13:06]: “There is a schism in a way between the lived American experience of denim as it happened throughout history, and the view that we take of denim, the popular mythology of denim, and its link to Americanness that we have now.”
She underscores the role of various groups, including slaves and Chinese immigrants, in the fabric’s history, contrasting it with the romanticized cowboy image.
5. Denim in Hollywood: Symbol of Rebellion
The hosts discuss how Hollywood has shaped denim’s image as a symbol of rebellion, tracing its roots from cowboys to biker gangs and counterculture movements.
Emma McClendon [16:46]: “The cowboy outlaw in the wild west... and one is a post-war figure, the biker gang member on his Harley. In both cases, they’re wearing their Levi’s 501s and their boots... denim begins to represent this danger to the ideal suburban environment.”
She connects iconic figures like Elvis Presley and the hippies to denim’s rebellious status.
6. The Rise of Designer Denim: From Workwear to High Fashion
The transition of denim from practical workwear to a high-fashion item in the 1970s is examined, highlighting key moments and designers who influenced this shift.
Emma McClendon [25:26]: “Levi’s first and then Lee were creating workwear out of denim... denim is not romantic. It is workwear, full stop.”
As denim entered the mainstream, designers like Yves Saint Laurent and brands like Gloria Vanderbilt and Calvin Klein elevated jeans to aspirational status.
Emma McClendon [32:16]: “By the end of the 70s, we see figures like Gloria Vanderbilt and Calvin Klein... ushering in the notion of jeans as sleek, sexy, high-end fashion.”
7. Contemporary Artisanal Denim: Craftsmanship and Culture
The episode explores the modern artisanal denim scene, particularly the influence of Japanese brands in preserving and innovating denim craftsmanship.
Emma McClendon [33:06]: “Japan starts to see a rise in domestic denim companies that are all about trying to recreate this authentic historical denim... they are reproducing it down to the painting of stitch marks.”
She discusses the raw denim movement, emphasizing authenticity and personal wear patterns that make each pair unique.
Emma McClendon [35:48]: “Raw denim is so stiff, it’s so hard... the idea is that you personalize it yourself. You wear it, and it becomes fitted to your body.”
8. Environmental Impact of Denim Production
Emma McClendon addresses the environmental challenges associated with denim production, from water usage to chemical pollution.
Emma McClendon [40:19]: “Denim, since it is such a huge market, is a huge pollutant too... the water that it takes, the pollution that that causes... it is one of the most problematic garments.”
She calls for greater consumer awareness and responsible manufacturing practices to mitigate denim’s environmental footprint.
9. Conclusion: The Enduring Romance and Responsibility of Denim
The hosts and Emma reflect on denim’s dual nature as both a beloved garment and an environmental concern, encouraging listeners to cherish and responsibly maintain their jeans.
Emma McClendon [42:53]: “Denim is great and I love denim, but it’s something that I hope we all get more educated about what’s in our closet and where it comes from and how it’s made.”
Hosts April and Cassidy share personal anecdotes about their denim practices, reinforcing the garment’s personal and cultural significance.
Cassidy Zachary [42:16]: “I find this a very romantic notion... jeans are a very haptic garment.”
Notable Quotes:
- Emma McClendon [05:05]: “Denim is a warp face twill made out of cotton.”
- Emma McClendon [16:46]: “Denim begins to represent this danger to the ideal suburban environment.”
- Emma McClendon [33:06]: “They are producing denim down to the painting of stitch marks.”
Final Thoughts
This episode offers a comprehensive exploration of denim’s rich history, cultural symbolism, and contemporary challenges. Emma McClendon’s expertise provides listeners with a deeper appreciation of their everyday garments, highlighting the intricate balance between fashion and responsibility.
Connect with Emma McClendon:
- Museum at FIT Website: museum.fit.edu
- Instagram: @maclendon
- Exhibition Content and Online Resources: Available on the Museum at FIT’s digital platforms
Upcoming Events:
- Fashion History Tours: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
- Online Course: 1950s Golden Age Haute Couture
For more information and to participate in future episodes, visit dressedhistory.com.