Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: Fierce: The History of Leopard Print, an Interview with Jo Weldon
Host/Authors: April Callahan & Cassidy Zachary
Guest: Jo Weldon
Release Date: December 26, 2024

Introduction

In the Fierce: The History of Leopard Print episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, fashion historians April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary delve into the enduring allure of leopard print with special guest Jo Weldon. As an author, activist, educator, photographer, and prominent figure in the burlesque scene, Weldon brings a multifaceted perspective to the discussion, exploring the pattern's historical roots, cultural significance, and evolving symbolism.

Jo Weldon's Background and Connection to Leopard Print

Jo Weldon introduces herself as the author of The History of Leopard Print and a key player in the American burlesque scene. She shares her personal affinity for leopard print, attributing it to her "punk roots" and a fascination that began in childhood. Weldon's early exposure to iconic figures like Eartha Kitt, who embodied the fierce elegance of leopard motifs, laid the groundwork for her lifelong passion.

[05:00] Jo Weldon: "I thought Eartha Kitt was Catwoman's real name until I realized there were other fabulous catwomen as well."

Historical Origins of Leopard Print

Weldon traces the origins of leopard print back to ancient civilizations, highlighting its association with power, wealth, and religious significance. In ancient Egypt, leopard pelts were symbols of nobility and priesthood, often worn by figures such as Hatshepsut and the goddess Seshat.

[07:06] Jo Weldon: "The leopard was one of [Hatshepsut's] symbols because she had been a priestess."

Cultural Significance Across Different Cultures

The episode explores how various cultures have revered big cats, integrating their patterns into textiles and symbolism. From Dionysus in Greek mythology to representations in Anatolian art, leopard motifs have consistently denoted power and authority.

[08:47] Jo Weldon: "They were clearly some kind of power sharing going on there, some kind of feeding off of each other's power."

Evolution Through Time

18th Century France

Leopard print made its fashionable debut in 18th-century France, influenced by King Louis XVI's fascination with exotic animals. This period saw the integration of leopard motifs into high-fashion garments, symbolizing decadence and leisure before the French Revolution curtailed extravagant displays.

[12:19] Cassidy Zachary: "The print became almost like a playful version of the fur."

Industrial Revolution

The Industrial Revolution democratized fashion, making patterned textiles like leopard print more accessible to the masses. Mechanization allowed for mass production, shifting leopard print from a symbol of exclusivity to a popular novelty among a broader audience.

[20:29] Jo Weldon: "A lot of novelty textiles... begin to become available to more and more people as time passes."

20th Century

Leopard print became synonymous with the femme fatale archetype in early 20th-century media. Icons like Joan Crawford and Nancy Cunard popularized the pattern, associating it with independence and allure.

[21:18] Jo Weldon: "You would see so many of them. And these styles were adopted by flappers and fashionable young women going from the mid-teens into the '20s."

High Fashion and Media Representation

Leopard print has maintained its status in high fashion, with designers like Christian Dior integrating it into haute couture. Dior's 1947 debut collection featured leopard print as a symbol of strength and resilience, inspired by his sister Catherine Dior’s survival during the Resistance.

[24:11] Cassidy Zachary: "And one of the symbols in the ads was the leopard's paw caressing a woman's hand."

Fashion icons and designers continue to champion leopard print, viewing it as a versatile neutral that adds boldness to any ensemble. Quotes from industry leaders like Jenna Lyons and Diana Vreeland underscore its timeless appeal.

[23:06] Cassidy Zachary: "Jenna Lyons... I consider leopard print to be a neutral."

Contrasting Views and Symbolism

While leopard print is celebrated for its glamour and power, it has also faced criticism for being perceived as immodest or morally questionable. This duality stems from societal expectations around women's roles and appearance.

[26:17] Jo Weldon: "There are people who have negative connotations with women not being in the kitchen or on the farm, and those are the people who've given leopard print a bad rap."

Leopard Print and Masculinity

Leopard print's association isn't limited to femininity. Male figures in rock and roll and glam have adopted the pattern to challenge gender norms and express transgression. Icons like David Bowie and Little Richard utilized leopard motifs to blur traditional gender lines and assert individuality.

[31:09] Jo Weldon: "Men in rock and roll have always liked to play with gender... Leopard print was definitely one of the emblems of 'Yeah, I like what I like and I'm not afraid of you and I'm gonna do what I want.'"

Leopard Print in Burlesque and Performance

In the realm of burlesque, leopard print enhances performances with its boldness and elegance. Jo Weldon discusses how the pattern complements the fierce and playful nature of burlesque acts, offering performers a medium to express confidence and redefine beauty standards.

[32:38] Cassidy Zachary: "What I've seen a lot with leopard print... is that it doesn't change meaning, it accumulates meaning."

Feminism and Burlesque

Jo Weldon emphasizes the intersection of leopard print with feminist ideals in burlesque. By reclaiming sexual agency and challenging societal norms, performers use leopard motifs to symbolize strength, resilience, and self-expression. Burlesque becomes a platform for diverse bodies and identities to be celebrated and empowered.

[36:46] Cassidy Zachary: "Concepts of beauty or challenging them entirely, blowing them out of the water."

Advice for Listeners

As the conversation wraps up, Jo Weldon offers inspiring advice to listeners, encouraging them to embrace their passions and connect with others who share their interests.

[38:49] Jo Weldon: "Just love what you love and let people know what you love, and you'll find other people that love it."

Conclusion

The episode concludes with reflections on the complex legacy of leopard print, acknowledging both its glamorous allure and the ethical considerations surrounding its use. Hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary highlight the importance of honoring animal conservation while celebrating the pattern's rich history and cultural significance.

[40:05] April Callahan: "The moral of our story frame friends, honor our animal friends and stick with the prints and woven leopard motifs."

Dressed: The History of Fashion invites listeners to appreciate the multifaceted narrative of leopard print, recognizing its role as a symbol of power, resilience, and unabashed self-expression throughout history.