Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: Invisible Beauty: An Interview with Bethann Hardison (Dressed Classic)
Release Date: February 14, 2025
Hosts: April Callahan & Cassidy Zachary
Guest: Bethann Hardison

Introduction

In this compelling episode of "Dressed: The History of Fashion," hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary engage in an in-depth conversation with Bethann Hardison, a pioneering model, modeling agent, and activist. The episode delves into Bethann's extensive career, her relentless fight for diversity in the fashion industry, and her influential role in shaping contemporary fashion norms.

Bethann Hardison’s Background and Early Career

Bethann Hardison's journey in fashion began in the bustling environment of New York City's Garment District. Growing up in Brooklyn, Bethann was immersed in a community rich with style and creativity. She recalls her first role in the industry:

“I came to work at the Cabot Button Custom button Factory. I looked up in the back then in the New York Times. You'd always find the Times giving you ads where you can basically find jobs.”
— Bethann Hardison [07:06]

Her early exposure to the dynamic life of the Garment District provided her with foundational skills and a deep understanding of the fashion world.

Challenges and Pioneering Efforts in Modeling

Bethann broke barriers as one of the first black models on 7th Avenue, a role that came with significant challenges. She vividly describes the isolation and discomfort she felt due to the lack of diversity:

“When I started, I was the first black looking model on 7th Avenue. There was no people look like me. I knew the difference of segregation from childhood. These people thought that we were less. I let them know we are here.”
— Bethann Hardison [04:13]

Her perseverance led her to collaborate with influential designers like Willi Smith and Stephen Burrows, who became pillars in her modeling career. Bethann's dual role as both a model and an assistant provided her with a 360-degree view of the fashion industry:

“I wound up running the design studio and I became his foot model.”
— Bethann Hardison [11:25]

The Battle of Versailles and Its Significance

A pivotal moment in Bethann's career was her participation in the Battle of Versailles in 1973. This event, initially intended as a benefit for the Marie Antoinette Theater, turned into a significant cultural clash between American and European fashion:

“It was treacherous at moments because it was cold Palace. No toilet paper, not good food to eat. Was tough for those days of rehearsing and all.”
— Bethann Hardison [16:37]

Despite logistical challenges and initial skepticism, the American team’s performance was met with overwhelming approval, leading to a newfound recognition of American fashion and diversity in the industry:

“We wind up being a wonderful night with everyone. Josephine Baker... she was so proud. The American girls.”
— Bethann Hardison [16:37]

Founding of the Black Girls Coalition

In 1988, Bethann founded the Black Girls Coalition, initially aimed at celebrating and supporting black models in the industry. The coalition evolved in response to broader societal issues, such as homelessness, intertwining activism with fashion:

“I just needed to do something about that. And mostly because children were being double victimized because their families were having to have to be evicted.”
— Bethann Hardison [33:24]

The coalition became a platform for advocacy, promoting diversity and creating opportunities for models of color.

Evolution and Challenges of Diversity in the Fashion Industry

Bethann discusses the fluctuating state of diversity in fashion, particularly highlighting the 1990s as a period of stagnation. She uses the Berlin Wall as a metaphor to describe the sudden shifts that affected representation:

“I use the Berlin Wall as a metaphor. At some given point, model scouts could go into Europe and start bringing out and scouting models.”
— Bethann Hardison [35:44]

The introduction of casting directors and stylists altered the industry's dynamics, often sidelining the relationships Bethann had cultivated with designers and models:

“I have a huge resentment for casting directors and stylists. They came along and changed the game with no sensitivity.”
— Bethann Hardison [38:01]

Despite these challenges, Bethann remained steadfast, eventually leading to a resurgence in diversity through strategic advocacy and bold initiatives.

Legacy and Ongoing Efforts

Bethann’s influence extends beyond her direct contributions; she has been a mentor and guide to countless models and designers. Her agency, founded in 1984, discovered and nurtured talents like Kimora Lee Simmons, Veronica Webb, Reschumba, and Tyson Beckford, playing a crucial role in their ascent to international fame.

Her relentless advocacy culminated in significant industry changes, especially after her decisive actions in 2013 where she openly called out brands lacking diversity, leading to immediate and impactful shifts:

“Once designers realize they’re being thought of as racist, immediate change happened.”
— Bethann Hardison [45:39]

Reflections and Future Directions

Reflecting on her career and the documentary "Invisible Beauty," Bethann shares her personal growth and the realization of her own value:

“Invisible Beauty has taught me a lot about me, but also has allowed me to understand my value and the value and all that I have done.”
— Bethann Hardison [48:18]

Looking forward, Bethann continues to mentor and guide the next generation, emphasizing the importance of representation and sustainability in fashion. She remains optimistic yet vigilant, advocating for ongoing progress and inclusivity.

“There are a lot of people now finding difficulty in getting retail support. And the industry has always been competitive and always tough.”
— Bethann Hardison [46:02]

Conclusion

This episode of "Dressed: The History of Fashion" offers a profound exploration of Bethann Hardison's monumental contributions to the fashion industry. Her story is one of resilience, advocacy, and unwavering commitment to diversity and inclusion. For those interested in understanding the intricate dynamics of fashion history and the pivotal figures who have shaped it, this interview serves as an inspiring and informative narrative.

“We all are students of Bethann Hardison, and I always say just, you know, hammock and a tequila. I'm good.”
— Bethann Hardison [03:57]

"Invisible Beauty" not only chronicles Bethann's journey but also serves as a testament to the transformative power of one individual's dedication to change.

Listen to the full episode here and dive deeper into the rich history and ongoing evolution of fashion.