Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: Mayor of Fashion Town, an Interview with Fern Mallis
Release Date: June 27, 2025

Introduction to Fern Mallis

In this special episode titled "Mayor of Fashion Town," hosts Cassie Zachary and April Callahan sit down with Fern Mallis, a pivotal figure in the fashion industry known for shaping New York Fashion Week and influencing global fashion events. Mallis, often referred to as the "godmother of American fashion," shares insights from her six-decade-long career, detailing her journey from her early days in Brooklyn to her influential role in organizing fashion weeks worldwide.

Early Life and Entry into Fashion

Fern Mallis recounts her upbringing in Brooklyn before its transformation into a cultural hub. “[...] growing up in suburbia with a backyard pool and garden, yet Manhattan always felt like the true city to me” (04:48). Her early exposure to fashion stemmed from her family's involvement in the garment industry—her father worked with scarves, and uncles were involved in textiles and women's sportswear. This environment fostered her passion, leading her to study fashion design at James Madison High School, where she won the fashion design medal.

Mallis credits her entry into the industry to winning a guest editor competition with Mademoiselle magazine. “[...] I was one of 20 students selected to be a guest editor in 1969,” she explains (08:34). This opportunity allowed her to work closely with influential figures like Sylvia Plath and Joan Didion, setting the stage for her future endeavors.

Founding New York Fashion Week

Mallis delves into her pivotal role in redefining New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in the early 1990s. While Eleanor Lambert pioneered press weeks in the 1940s, Mallis took the reins when these initiatives had dwindled. “[...] reinvent New York Fashion Week as we know it today” (03:58). She emphasizes the complexity behind the glamour of fashion shows, highlighting the immense coordination and creativity involved.

She recounts the challenges faced during the initial days, including ensuring participation from top designers like Calvin Klein. “[...] Calvin, you want to answer that? And he came up to the podium and said, yes, I'm going to be there” (26:02). This collaboration was crucial in establishing the tents at Bryant Park, which became the iconic setting for NYFW.

Evolution and Impact of Fashion Week

Under Mallis's leadership, NYFW transformed into a significant industry event, attracting editors, retailers, and global attention. “[...] it was an enormous boon for the industry” (30:11). She highlights how the unified structure of Fashion Week facilitated the launching of numerous designers and models, effectively serving as a catalyst for careers and fostering a global fashion community.

Mallis also touches upon the transition of NYFW under IMG's management, which shifted the focus towards commercial interests and sponsorships. “[...] when IMG took over, it became much more of a business” (34:41). This change introduced a more corporate approach, altering the original creative and collaborative spirit of the event.

Global Consulting and Expanding Fashion Weeks

Beyond New York, Mallis expanded her influence by consulting on international fashion weeks. She played a significant role in establishing fashion weeks in India, Berlin, Australia, Moscow, and other cities, helping these events gain global prominence. “[...] I fell in love with India the minute I arrived” (37:07). Her efforts in Mumbai’s Kalakmi Fashion Week, for instance, have been pivotal in recognizing India as a major fashion capital.

Mallis describes these international projects as “pearls,” previously strung together by IMG but now facing fragmentation as fashion weeks proliferate globally. “[...] that necklace broke a long time ago” (40:30).

Fashion Icons Series and Personal Anecdotes

Mallis shares her involvement in the "Fashion Icons" series at the 92nd Street Y, a project that began 15 years ago. This series features in-depth interviews with renowned fashion figures, offering a personal glimpse into their lives beyond their collections. “[...] I don't want a whole bunch of press photos. I want you with your parents, you're with your siblings” (50:12).

A memorable story involves her persistent efforts to include Bill Cunningham, the legendary New York Times photographer, in the series. “[...] I literally, I bugged him for years” (46:14). Their eventual collaboration resulted in one of the most epic interviews, showcasing Mallis's dedication to capturing authentic narratives within the fashion world.

The Future of American Fashion

Addressing current challenges, Mallis discusses the precarious state of American fashion, citing the decline in domestic manufacturing and the impact of tariffs. “[...] Only anywhere between 2 to 3% of the clothing that is purchased in the US today is actually made here domestically” (53:20). She expresses concern over the sustainability of the industry amid rising costs and global dependencies.

Mallis emphasizes the importance of sustainability and the shift towards digital platforms, noting that technology has democratized fashion entrepreneurship. “[...] you can be a designer anywhere in the world these days and you don't need brick and mortar anymore” (41:27).

Mentorship and Future Projects

Looking ahead, Mallis is mentoring the next generation of designers, including her nine-year-old protege, Max Alexander. “[...] he's the cutest, most talented young man I've ever met” (58:44). Her collaboration on a caftan design with Max exemplifies her commitment to nurturing youthful creativity in fashion.

She also mentions an upcoming documentary titled "Godmother of Fashion," set to release in 2026, which chronicles her extensive career and influence on the fashion industry. “[...] somebody coined the term godmother of fashion, and that seems to be what's holding it all together” (51:53).

Conclusion

Fern Mallis's interview on "Dressed: The History of Fashion" offers a comprehensive look into her monumental contributions to the fashion industry. From revitalizing New York Fashion Week to fostering global fashion events and mentoring future designers, Mallis's legacy is deeply intertwined with the evolution of modern fashion. Her reflections on the industry's challenges and future provide valuable insights for both enthusiasts and professionals alike.

Notable Quotes

• Fern Mallis on Integrating into NYFW:

  “Calvin, you want to answer that? And he came up to the podium and said, yes, I'm going to be there.”
  26:02

• On the Impact of Fashion Week:

  “It was an enormous boon for the industry.”
  30:11

• Addressing the Future Challenges:

  “Only anywhere between 2 to 3% of the clothing that is purchased in the US today is actually made here domestically.”
  53:20

• On Sustainability and Modern Entrepreneurship:

  “You can be a designer anywhere in the world these days and you don't need brick and mortar anymore.”
  41:27

• Personal Anecdote with Bill Cunningham:

  “He said, I'll give you a new outfit. And I said, Bill, I just came home from India with this this morning. There's no way you can buy me another one.”
  49:31

Timestamps Reference

• <a name="timestamp04:48"></a>[04:48]
• <a name="timestamp08:34"></a>[08:34]
• <a name="timestamp03:58"></a>[03:58]
• <a name="timestamp26:02"></a>[26:02]
• <a name="timestamp30:11"></a>[30:11]
• <a name="timestamp34:41"></a>[34:41]
• <a name="timestamp37:07"></a>[37:07]
• <a name="timestamp40:30"></a>[40:30]
• <a name="timestamp46:14"></a>[46:14]
• <a name="timestamp50:12"></a>[50:12]
• <a name="timestamp53:20"></a>[53:20]
• <a name="timestamp41:27"></a>[41:27]
• <a name="timestamp58:44"></a>[58:44]
• <a name="timestamp51:53"></a>[51:53]
• <a name="timestamp49:31"></a>[49:31]

This in-depth conversation with Fern Mallis reveals the intricate dynamics of the fashion industry and the significant role Mallis has played in its evolution. Her experiences offer a blend of historical perspective and forward-thinking insights, making this episode a valuable listen for anyone interested in the tapestry of fashion history.