Podcast Summary: "Navajo Weaving: Art, History, Practice with Linda Teller Pete and Barbara Teller Ornelas, Part I"

Podcast Information

• Title: Dressed: The History of Fashion
• Host: Dressed Media
• Episode: Navajo Weaving: Art, History, Practice with Linda Teller Pete and Barbara Teller Ornelas, Part I (Dressed Classic)
• Release Date: July 30, 2025

Introduction

In this enlightening episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary delve into the intricate world of Navajo weaving. They are joined by esteemed guests Linda and Barbara Teller Ornellis, internationally acclaimed authors, educators, and fifth-generation Navajo weavers. The episode serves as the first part of a two-part series aimed at exploring the sacred cultural practice and art form of Navajo weaving.

Family Tradition of Navajo Weaving

Linda and Barbara Ornellis come from a lineage deeply rooted in Navajo weaving, spanning five generations themselves and extending to seven generations with their children and grandchildren. Barbara shares, “I have two children... and they’re fifth generation. And then we, Lynn and I, share our granddaughter, who is our seventh generation” (05:11). This rich heritage underscores the importance of weaving in their family and community.

Significance of Weaving in Navajo Culture

Weaving is portrayed not merely as a craft but as a vital cultural practice intertwined with the Navajo identity. Cassidy Zachary describes their upbringing, saying, “we were destined to be weavers... We didn't weave more than probably 20 minutes at a time” (06:25). Despite childhood perceptions of weaving as restrictive, both Linda and Barbara emphasize its role in preserving cultural heritage and sustaining their families.

Spider Woman and Spider Man in Weaving Tradition

A significant portion of the conversation centers around the Navajo deities Spider Woman and Spider Man, pivotal figures in Navajo weaving mythology. April asks, “Who Spider Woman is and also Spider man and what is their significance to Navajo weaving” (11:59). Barbara elaborates on Spider Woman’s creation story, explaining how she bestowed the gift of weaving upon Navajo women to ensure their sustenance and cultural continuity. Spider Man, her husband, is credited with constructing the looms and assisting in the practical aspects of weaving.

The Weaving Process: From Wool to Rugs

The Ornellis sisters provide an in-depth look at the meticulous process of weaving Navajo rugs. Barbara details the preparation of wool, from shearing sheep to carding and spinning, emphasizing the communal and familial aspects of this craft. “It takes a whole family. It takes a whole family to put as a support system, someone to help you with the wool, someone to help you do stuff” (36:39).

Linda adds, “The tools are significant because the tool makers have to decide how they're going to harvest the wood... [they make] sure the comb is an extension of our hand” (32:34). This highlights the symbiotic relationship between the weavers and their tools, crafted with precision and cultural significance.

Tools and Toolmakers

The role of toolmakers is underscored as essential yet often overlooked contributors to Navajo weaving. Barbara recounts a conversation with a toolmaker’s brother, who pointed out, “you weavers get all the glory. Nobody ever talks about the tool maker behind the curtain” (30:24). Linda emphasizes the artistry in toolmaking, ensuring that each comb and batten aligns with Navajo traditions and practical needs.

Dyeing Process and Natural Dyes

Dyeing is another critical aspect discussed, blending traditional methods with modern practices. Barbara explains the use of both aniline dyes and natural plant-based dyes, detailing the process and the importance of respecting environmental protocols. Cassidy highlights their exploration of natural dyes through interactions with master dyer Irene Clark: “It's just like one day you decide you're going to get up and go and pick plants. There's a process to it” (37:50).

Modern Adaptations and Preservation of Tradition

Navigating the challenges of a fast-paced, technologically driven world, Linda and Barbara discuss how they adapt traditional practices to contemporary contexts. Cassidy notes, “there are still people like yourselves who are creating using these age-old techniques and traditions and very much keeping that alive” (18:01). The sisters balance maintaining cultural protocols with embracing modern innovations to teach and promote Navajo weaving globally.

Conclusion and Looking Forward to Part II

As the episode concludes, April teases the upcoming deep dive into the history and exhibition of Navajo weaving, highlighting the sisters' collaboration with the Bard Graduate Center. Listeners are encouraged to explore more about Linda and Barbara’s work via their website and social media platforms.

Notable Quotes:

• Barbara Teller Ornellis (05:26): “We have a lot of her pieces still with us. Because she wove for the families.”
• Cassidy Zachary (07:47): “Once we got out in the world is when we figured out not everybody knows how to weave.”
• Barbara Teller Ornellis (22:41): “Weaving is a living spirit and it takes on your feelings, your vibe.”

Resources:

• Website: www.aboutnavajorugweavers.com
• Social Media: Instagram @dressedpodcast, hashtags #dressed304 and #dressed305
• Books by Linda and Barbara Teller Ornellis:
  • Spider Woman's Children, Navajo Weavers Today
  • How to Weave a Navajo Rug and Other Lessons from Spider Woman

Stay tuned for Part II of this series, where Linda and Barbara will further explore the historical and contemporary influences shaping Navajo weaving.