Podcast Summary: Dressed: The History of Fashion - Episode: On the Dressed Bookshelf

Release Date: July 4, 2025
Host: Avril Callahan and Cassidy Zachary
Producer: Dressed Media

Introduction to the Dressed Bookshelf

In this enlightening episode, Avril Callahan and Cassidy Zachary dive into their personal book collections, responding to listeners' requests for fashion history book recommendations. Both hosts express their profound love for books, emphasizing how these literary works complement their exploration of fashion's social and cultural narratives.

1. The Life and Work of Claire McCardell by Elizabeth Ivitz D. Dickinson

Overview:
This newly released biography offers an in-depth examination of Claire McCardell, a pivotal American fashion designer renowned for pioneering comfortable and chic sportswear.

Key Highlights:

• McCardell's Influence: Avril highlights McCardell's role in shaping modern American fashion, particularly in the realm of sportswear, which encompasses everyday attire such as T-shirts, jeans, and blazers. "Claire was one of the main instigators of all of this and how America has reigned supreme as the creator of sportswear" (04:30).

• Research Depth: The author, Elizabeth Ivitz D. Dickinson, meticulously researches McCardell's personal letters, interviews, and archives to present a comprehensive narrative. "The book is actually written as narrative nonfiction, biography, so it kind of reads as a novel, but it's all true" (06:00).

• Critical Acclaim: Avril enthusiastically endorses the book, stating, "this is my top pick of 2025 so far this year" (07:07).

2. Fashion in American Life edited by Hazel Clark and Lauren Downing Peters

Overview:
An academic yet accessible volume that expands American fashion history beyond industry giants, focusing on the everyday fashion experiences of ordinary people.

Key Highlights:

• Diverse Contributions: The book features 12 essays from various authors, each exploring different facets of American fashion. For instance, Andy Riley's essay delves into the cultural significance of Hawaiian shirts among different ethnic groups in Hawaii (09:00).

• Everyday Fashion as Agency: Cassidy emphasizes the book's exploration of fashion as a means of self-identification and political expression. "It allows us to see American fashion as a form of agency, self-identification, creative engagement and politics" (09:45).

• Accessible Structure: The edited volume format enables readers to pick and choose essays that resonate with them, making it a versatile addition to any fashion history enthusiast's library (10:15).

3. 400 Years of Women's Quest for Beauty by Margaret Lincoln

Overview:
This comprehensive work examines the evolution of beauty culture and its profound impact on women's identities and societal roles over four centuries.

Key Highlights:

• Historical Scope: Covering eight chapters, the book addresses themes such as body sculpture, diet, makeup, hygiene, and more. Avril mentions intriguing topics like the history of hair dyes and the role of spa towns in marriage markets (11:30).

• Cultural Impact: The author illustrates how beauty obsession has shaped modern femininity, both externally and internally. "Beauty culture remains deeply controversial. This book shows that obsession for perfection can dominate women's lives" (12:15).

• Engaging Narration: Despite its hefty 350-page count, the book is praised for being approachable and rich in fascinating details (12:45).

4. The Red Conversations in Stitch by Kirsty MacLeod

Overview:
A tribute to the Red Dress Project, this book documents a 14-year global embroidery initiative where women from around the world stitch their personal stories onto a red silk satin gown.

Key Highlights:

• Global Participation: By 2023, 380 embroiderers from 51 countries contributed to the dress, symbolizing shared humanity and resilience. "221,000 miles is the distance that parts of or the whole dress have traveled during its creation" (15:10).

• Empowerment Through Art: The project empowers individuals facing displacement, war, and poverty to express themselves through embroidery. Cassidy reflects, "It's such an inspiring testament to our shared humanity" (15:30).

• Comprehensive Documentation: The book not only showcases the dress but also includes voices from the embroiderers and practical embroidery instructions, making it both visually and intellectually engaging (16:00).

5. Modern Venus: Dress, Underwear, and Accessories in the Late 18th Century Atlantic World by Elizabeth Gurnard

Overview:
Elizabeth Gurnard's whimsical exploration of late 18th-century fashion delves into the extravagant dresses, hairstyles, and accessories of the era, enriched with primary source imagery and satirical prints.

Key Highlights:

• Exaggerated Fashion: The book examines the opulent panniered skirts and towering pouf hairstyles, providing insights into their cultural significance and the satire they inspired. "The calash is meant to cover the poof... just imagine how large these might be" (21:00).

• Playful Scholarship: Gurnard balances serious research with engaging storytelling, making complex fashion history accessible and entertaining. "It does this amazing job of balancing serious scholarship with being playful and even sensational" (22:00).

• Unique Accessories: Topics such as muffs protected by sumptuary laws and the intricate practice of tight lacing are explored in detail, offering a comprehensive view of the period's fashion nuances (22:15).

6. Azzedine Alaïa: The Complete Collection - Palais Galliera Exhibition Catalog

Overview:
This stunning exhibition catalog accompanies the 2023-2024 Palais Galliera exhibition, showcasing Azzedine Alaïa's extensive fashion collection, which rivals some of the world's greatest museum collections.

Key Highlights:

• Extensive Collection: Alaïa amassed one of the largest private fashion collections, featuring pieces from iconic designers like Worth, Fortuny, and Schiaparelli. "It is the largest fashion collection in the world" (26:00).

• Historical Inspirations: The catalog reveals how Alaïa's passion for fashion history influenced his designs, with pieces inspired by Balenciaga and other historical garments. "Kirsty was actually invited by Balenciaga's close collaborator... to take whatever you want as inspiration for your own designs" (26:30).

• Exhibition Insights: Olivier Sillard, curator of the exhibition, provides essays that delve into Alaïa's design philosophy and his reverence for historical fashion, making the catalog a valuable resource for understanding his legacy (27:00).

Honorable Mentions

Avril and Cassidy briefly discuss additional noteworthy works:

• "Liberated Threads" edited by Tanisha Ford: An exploration of black women's style and its role in global politics, coinciding with the guest-edited Aperture magazine issue on the same theme.

• "The Dress History of Korea" edited by Seung Gi Pyun and Minji Kim: This volume presents recent approaches to interpreting Korean dress and fashion, incorporating primary sources and expert contributions.

• "Fashion and Motherhood, Image, Material, and Identity" edited by Lauren Downing Peters: Examining the intersection of fashion and motherhood across different cultures, this book ties into their recent episode on children's wear and gender identity formation.

Additional Recommendations and Resources

• Bookshop Support: The hosts encourage listeners to support local and independent bookstores through their curated bookshelf available at bookshop.org/shop/dressed, featuring over 150 recommended fashion history titles.

• Library Utilization: For those unable to purchase, Avril and Cassidy remind listeners of the valuable resources available through local libraries, including interlibrary loans for accessing these recommended works.

Conclusion

This episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion serves as a treasure trove for fashion enthusiasts seeking to deepen their understanding through carefully selected literature. From pioneering designers like Claire McCardell to global embroidery projects and historical fashion analyses, Avril and Cassidy provide insightful recommendations that celebrate the rich tapestry of fashion history.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

• Avril Callahan (04:30): “Claire was one of the main instigators of all of this and how America has reigned supreme as the creator of sportswear.”

• Cassidy Zachary (09:45): “It allows us to see American fashion as a form of agency, self-identification, creative engagement and politics.”

• Avril Callahan (12:15): “Beauty culture remains deeply controversial. This book shows that obsession for perfection can dominate women's lives.”

• Cassidy Zachary (15:10): “221,000 miles is the distance that parts of or the whole dress have traveled during its creation.”

• Avril Callahan (21:00): “The calash is meant to cover the poof... just imagine how large these might be.”

• Cassidy Zachary (26:00): “It is the largest fashion collection in the world.”

For more insights and discussions on fashion history, tune in to future episodes of Dressed: The History of Fashion.