Dressed: The History of Fashion – Episode: Scott Barrie, an Interview with Elizabeth Way
Release Date: February 7, 2025

Hosts: April Callahan & Cassidy Zachary
Guest: Elizabeth Way, Assistant Curator at the Museum at FIT, Author of Black Designers in American Fashion

Introduction

In this compelling episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary welcome Elizabeth Way, a distinguished fashion historian and the author of the recently released book, Black Designers in American Fashion. The episode delves into the life and legacy of Scott Berry, a noteworthy yet often overlooked Black American fashion designer whose contributions significantly shaped the American fashion landscape of the 1970s.

Elizabeth Way’s Background and Motivation

Elizabeth Way serves as an Assistant Curator at the Museum at FIT in New York City and co-curated the pivotal 2016-2017 exhibition, Black Fashion Designers. Her passion for uncovering and celebrating Black designers led her to author a volume dedicated to this often underrepresented group in fashion history. Way expressed her enthusiasm for finally being able to spotlight Scott Berry, a designer who, despite his influence and success during his time, has faded into obscurity.

Quote:
"Liz currently serves as an Assistant Curator at the Museum at FIT in New York City and was co-curator of, you guessed it, the 2016-2017 exhibition Black Fashion Designers." – April Callahan [02:24]

Early Life of Scott Berry

Scott Berry, born Nelson Clyde Barr in 1946 in Florida, grew up in Philadelphia in a household steeped in fashion. His mother, a refined dressmaker serving high-society clients in Society Hill, played a pivotal role in his early exposure to textiles and garment construction. Berry exhibited a natural aptitude for design from a young age, sketching dresses by six years old and spending his afternoons at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, absorbing artistic influences that would later inform his sophisticated and glamorous aesthetic.

Quote:
"One of the most interesting things, I think, is that his mother was a very refined dressmaker... he was always around fashion." – Elizabeth Way [04:37]

Educational Pursuits and Move to New York

Berry honed his artistic skills at the Philadelphia College of Art, focusing primarily on drawing before enrolling at the esteemed Meyer School of Fashion in New York. The Meyer School, though less documented, served as an essential stepping stone for Berry, equipping him with the technical prowess and industry connections necessary to launch his own fashion label.

Career Beginnings and Building a Brand

In 1962, Berry relocated to New York City, entering the bustling fashion scene by interning with Arthur McGee, a prominent designer on 7th Avenue. Balancing multiple jobs to support himself, Berry began his entrepreneurial journey by designing and cutting dresses from his apartment. His dedication and innovative use of fabrics, particularly jersey, set him apart in an industry dominated by traditional materials like chiffon and satin.

Quote:
"He first started working with Jersey in 1966, that he was cutting dresses out of his apartment before he really established his business. But he was experimenting with it." – Elizabeth Way [10:28]

Innovative Use of Jersey Fabric

Berry revolutionized evening wear by incorporating jersey fabric, traditionally seen as casual sportswear, into elegant and formal designs. Inspired by Madame Gray, Berry emphasized comfort and sensuality in his creations, allowing the fabric to drape beautifully around the body while maintaining an air of sophistication. His innovative approach earned him recognition and clientele among high-profile actresses and celebrities.

Quote:
"He really introduced this more elegance and this ease into it. And she said that it really became apparent when actresses started wearing these dresses, Scott Berry dresses to the Academy Awards." – Elizabeth Way [11:07]

Partnership with Robbie Marks and Business Expansion

Facing financial challenges common to emerging designers, Berry formed a crucial partnership with Robbie Marks at the Allen and Cole boutique. Marks, an expert in merchandising and buying, complemented Berry’s design prowess, allowing them to navigate the complexities of the fashion business effectively. This partnership facilitated Berry’s entry into major department stores, notably Bloomingdale's, significantly boosting his brand’s visibility and success.

Quote:
"She was a model, so he would make her clothes that she could wear on her modeling jobs for her photographs and she would help him with the business and she went out with him to visit buyers." – Elizabeth Way [15:05]

Notable Clients and Industry Recognition

Berry’s designs were embraced by a roster of illustrious clients, including Liza Minnelli, Nina Simone, Dionne Warwick, Cicely Tyson, and Barbra Streisand. His creations graced red carpets and iconic film sets, cementing his status in the fashion elite. Additionally, Berry contributed over 100 costumes to the film "The Wiz," further showcasing his versatility and flair.

Quote:
"Their business really took off. ... Liza Minnelli and the Poynter sisters. Ashford and Simpson musicians were a really big part of the celebrity contingent in New York at that time." – Elizabeth Way [17:02]

Challenges Faced: Racism and Sexism in the Industry

Despite his success, Berry and his business partner, Robbie Marks, encountered significant racism and sexism. They received hate mail responding to a denim ad featuring Berry fitting a white model, revealing the persistent prejudices within and outside the fashion industry. Marks also recounted instances of sexism, such as being mistaken for Berry’s daughter during business meetings, highlighting the dual barriers Black designers faced.

Quote:
"They would get hate mail because they were a black and white company, and that people would write in and make their complaints, which is crazy to me." – Elizabeth Way [20:00]

Legacy and Impact on American Fashion

Scott Berry epitomizes the golden age of 7th Avenue design—a period characterized by high-end ready-to-wear fashion that was both accessible and sophisticated. His adept use of jersey fabric and his ability to maintain in-house manufacturing set a standard for quality and innovation. Berry’s work not only defined the aesthetic of the 1970s but also laid the groundwork for modern American fashion, emphasizing the importance of design excellence and cultural representation.

Quote:
"I really think he represents the epitome of what was possible for 7th Avenue design... He did a lot of his manufacturing in his own. He had it all in house for the most part." – Elizabeth Way [25:43]

Elizabeth Way’s Book: Black Designers in American Fashion

Way’s book chronicles the contributions of Black designers from the 18th century to the end of the 20th century, featuring a diverse array of profiles and essays by esteemed scholars. The volume serves as an essential resource for understanding the profound impact of Black designers on American fashion, highlighting figures like Fanny Criss, Ruby Bailey, Wesley Tan Darnell, Jay Jackson, Dapper Dan, Stephen Burroughs, Willie Ware, and Patrick Kelly.

Quote:
"The book covers from the 18th and 19th centuries all the way to the end of the 20th century... Really different designers, but really amazing stories and all based in New York." – Elizabeth Way [28:09]

Conclusion

This episode of Dressed not only brings Scott Berry’s remarkable career into the spotlight but also underscores the enduring influence of Black designers in shaping American fashion. Through Elizabeth Way’s insightful analysis and passionate advocacy, listeners gain a deeper appreciation for Berry’s legacy and the broader narrative of diversity and innovation within the fashion industry.

Final Quote:
"Berry’s work not only defined the aesthetic of the 1970s but also laid the groundwork for modern American fashion." – Elizabeth Way [26:47]

Additional Information:
Elizabeth Way invites listeners to explore her book, Black Designers in American Fashion, and encourages them to celebrate the presence of Black designers in their own wardrobes. The episode concludes with a reminder of future content and upcoming tours and classes offered by Dressed Media.

Note: Timestamps correspond to specific moments in the transcript where quotes were taken.