← Dressed: The History of Fashion
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- [00:02]
April Callahan
On WhatsApp, no one can see or hear your personal messages. Whether it's a voice call message or sending a password to WhatsApp, it's all just this. So whether you're sharing the streaming password in the family chat or trading those late night voice messages that could basically become a podcast, your personal messages stay between you, your friends and your family. No one else, not even us. WhatsApp message privately with everyone with the Venmo Debit card, you can Venmo everything. Your favorite band's merch.
- [00:34]
Cassidy Zachary
You can Venmo this or their next.
- [00:35]
April Callahan
Show, you can Venmo that.
- [00:36]
Cassidy Zachary
Visit Venmo Me Debit to learn more. The Venmo MasterCard is issued by the Bancorp bank and a pursuant to license by MasterCard International Incorporated Card may be used everywhere.
- [00:43]
April Callahan
MasterCard is accepted.
- [00:44]
Cassidy Zachary
Venmo purchase restrictions apply.
- [00:45]
April Callahan
Dress Listeners Bonjour from Paris.
- [00:48]
Cassidy Zachary
Yes, we are currently on our annual summer hiatus from the show as we conduct our summer fashion history tours of the City of Lights. But worry not, we will be back in August with brand new content dedicated to all of the exciting fashion history exhibitions and other behind the scenes experiences we have encountered while here.
- [01:06]
April Callahan
Until then, please enjoy this episode from the Dressed archive of over 500 past shows. The History of Fashion is a production of dressed media. With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common. Every day, we all get dressed.
- [01:27]
Cassidy Zachary
Welcome to Dressed the History of Fashion, a podcast that explores the who, what, when of why we wear. We are friends, fashion historians and your hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary.
- [01:40]
April Callahan
So today's episode, Dressed Listeners is brought to you by Dr. Williams. Pink pills for Pale People I'm obviously joking. This is just one of the many ads from the year 1900 that I came across while researching the subject of this week's two part series. And that of course is the gilded.
- [01:58]
Cassidy Zachary
Dudes of fashion and Dress listeners right now. If you are wondering what does the word dude have to do with fashion, well then you definitely missed our Tuesday episode where we told you all about the origins of dudes fashionable connections. So listen to that first if you haven't already. Because today we continue our investigation into the fashion subculture that took America by storm in the 1880s.
- [02:23]
April Callahan
As we learned on Tuesday, the term dude was just the latest in a long line of denigrating terms that included fop macaron. Also swell, which is another similar term that we haven't used before. And all of these terms were intended to belittle what society deemed men's inappropriate attention and dedication to the high art of dressing. But as much as journalists love to cast shade in the Dude's direction, they really had an undeniable impact on fashion and popular culture during the era. And as you remember from Tuesday's episode, there were over 400,000 articles on dudes in the last 20 years of the 19th century alone. So their impact is something we're going to explore explore more in depth today.
- [03:03]
Cassidy Zachary
As much as dudes, and particularly the King of the Dudes, Evander Barry Wall, were disparaged in the popular press, they were also celebrated not just as fashionable, but fashion leaders and fashion leaders who were constantly changing and innovating the clothing they wore and inspiring others to do the same. And while the general public might not have mirrored every aspect of dude fashions, the numerous articles on the subject make it clear that people were looking to dudes for wardrobe inspiration. One inquiring reader wrote to the Indianapolis Journal in 1885 asking, quote, Is the dude fashion of wearing two watch chains, an old one renewed or a new one? To which the author apparently replied, answer, it is as old as 1770, when it was the fashion among the dandies, aka dudes of the day to wear two watches, the chains and seals of which dangled on each side beneath their waistcoats. So those were fob chains and they wear them now across their breasts.
- [04:02]
April Callahan
In 1888, one exasperated journalist reported on another dude fad for wearing a sash around the waist, saying, just think of it, a male with a sash round his waist. And the author goes on to describe how he saw, quote, unquote, a little dude at Manhattan beach one evening, quote his shoes were patent leather, his gaiters of white duck, his trousers of pearl cassimir, which is apparently a thin lightweight twill wool with frightful bags at the knees, and his coat of big checked English stuff on his head above a single glass, which is an eyeglass balanced uncertainly on a narrow brimmed pot hat. He wore no waistcoat. His shirt front was fully exposed and not a suspender was visible on him. Instead he exhibited a sash. It was a broadband black silk that covered the trunk halfway up to the chest at one side. It was caught in an elaborate bow knot.
- [04:55]
Cassidy Zachary
It might not be lost on our listeners that the author is describing a cummerbund, but what we may recognize today as part of a standard formal tuxedo suit for many, many years was at this time in the late 19th century, a novelty in American menswear, most likely a very recent import or cultural appropriation from Then British occupied Europe, India, and actually, Cass, I think that the Indian origins of the cummerbund would make a fantastic minisode, as would also probably the origins of pajamas and also jodhpur. So.
- [05:32]
April Callahan
Yes, yes, yes.
- [05:33]
Cassidy Zachary
Perhaps there's an Indian fashion historian who would like to chat with us about this next season. I digress. We should also probably note here that sashes were also worn in the 19th century in spite of Spanish American horse riding culture. So either way, this sash wearing was not original to American dudes, but it was a novelty of American men's fashion that by the following year had been translated into mainstream men's fashion, where it more or less remains today.
- [06:02]
April Callahan
Yeah, and I'm not entirely sure about that because I haven't been to a prom or a homecoming in some time.
- [06:09]
Cassidy Zachary
What? You didn't go to prom this year?
- [06:13]
April Callahan
That's the last time perhaps I saw a cumberbund. So I don't know how fashionable they are today, but they've been around for a really long time, obviously, and since the 19th century. But funny you should mention tuxedo April because it too has a dude association. What is familiar today to us as a typically black, formal, two piece quote unquote tuxedo with satin details was in the 1880s an informal dinner coat. It was short, it did not have a tail, and it was in color, so blue or scarlet were common colors, and it had satin lapels. It was known as Le Smoking in France and as the cow's coat in England. The American fashion press started commenting on the quote unquote short coat when in 1886, it was force worn to not incoincidentally the exclusive Tuxedo Park Club, which was situated in a bucolic township enclave located about an hour and a half outside New York City. And depending on the source, it was introduced there first by either coffee magnate James Brown Potter or the son of the founder of the Tuxedo Park Club, Griswold Lorillard. Great name. Regardless, it is said both men were inspired to its adoption by the fashion leader of the time, England's Prince of Wales, the future King Edward vii.
- [07:27]
Cassidy Zachary
And while he did not by any means invent the tuxedo, nor was he the first to wear it in America. Evander, ever the fashion rebel, was instrumental in helping to popularize the novel tailless style at a time when the tail coat was really the rule in formal evening attire. As Harper's bazaar noted in 1887, quote Mr. E. Barry Wall, who bears the distinguishing title of King of the Dudes, was ordered off the floor of the ballroom of the Grand Union Hotel, Saratoga, recently because the doorkeeper insisted he was not informed. Full dress. Mr. Wall wore the tailless dress coat so popular in England for summer wear, but which was new to the attendant, who regarded it as little more than a waiter's jacket and insisted upon the claw hammer of tradition.
- [08:17]
April Callahan
Yeah, and Evander actually addressed the tuxedo in his memoirs, writing, quote, if I brought the so called tuxedo into fashion, it was for good reason. To begin with, there is nothing harder to wear than an evening coat. The garment the English always call tails, the white waistcoat, which is in full view, stretching across your middle, must fit perfectly. So must the coat. Otherwise, in 15 or 20 minutes you begin to look like a waiter in a dinner coat. Especially in a double breasted dinner coat, you have no such problem, for your waistcoat is more or less out of sight, quote, unquote. In the olden days, in the golden days, as Raymond Hitchcock used to sing. It wasn't good form, however, to wear a tux except when going out with other men. So whether setting the fashions or wearing them, dudes were constantly in the press during this period, and none so more than Evander, but more on that in a minute.
- [09:06]
Cassidy Zachary
So we've talked now a lot about who dudes were and what they wore, but some of you might be wondering, how much did it cost to maintain such an elaborate and ever changing wardrobe? Well, we can thank an 1886 article that appeared in the Savannah Morning News for insights into the answer to that very question. And the article reads, quote, it is the tailor that makes his, AKA the dude's existence possible. And then the article goes on to break down the dude's wardrobe and estimate cost piece by piece, starting with their undersuits or undergarments, which had to be silk because no dude would wear anything else. And a dude required at least half a dozen to a dozen silk undies per year.
- [09:52]
April Callahan
Sounds like you'd be washing your silk undies quite a lot. Just saying. A dude also required at least two dozen pairs of socks annually, as well as 36 to 50 pairs of shoes, three dozen bosom shirts, five dozen collars, three dozen cuffs, and 36 outer suits, including business suits, cutaways, frocks and dress suits. That is to say nothing of the accessories and clothing items required to, you know, complete an ensemble. So that includes hats, which, of course, a dude had 16 at least, top coats, walking sticks, jewelry, eyeglasses, gloves, et cetera. And the article concludes that it, quote, costs to make a dude. And not one of the wealthiest or most extravagant of dudes either. $5,659.40, to be exact.
- [10:42]
Cassidy Zachary
I like the $0.40 part.
- [10:43]
April Callahan
I know. Which amounts to just over a whopping $175,000 a year today. And as the article reminds us, the cost goes up the higher you are on the social ladder. So the aforementioned Prince of Wales, for instance, spent a reported $80,000 a year, or today, $2.4 million a year on his clothing.
- [11:05]
Cassidy Zachary
Wow.
- [11:06]
April Callahan
Yeah.
- [11:07]
Cassidy Zachary
So on Tuesday, we spoke about the hyperbole of many of these news articles. And perhaps this article was extended exaggerating just a tad, especially considering we have the King of the Dudes running tab at a New York tailor by the name of Matthias Rock. To compare it to. From March of 1883 to May of 1896, Evander racked up a bill of $1,062, which was a whopping $31,000 in today's money. But that averages to about $10,000 a year in today's money, which is a far cry from the $175,000,000 as professed by the Savannah News article. And this bill was for over 30 items of custom made clothing that included, among many other things, a blue cutaway sack coat, a vest and Casimir trousers, white Casimir riding breeches, and four Marseille waistcoats.
- [12:02]
April Callahan
And while this averages to only 10 items of clothing per year, it is important to remember that this is also just one of several tailors that Evander frequented in both America and Europe. He was also a client of Henry Poole of London, for instance, among many others. And it's also worth mentioning that a good portion of those clothes were, in fact, purchased in 1883 and 1884. And that by 1885, Evander was not so much commissioning new clothes for Mr. Rock, but repairing and altering them.
- [12:31]
Cassidy Zachary
We actually know this because this bill was actually published in 1888 in the New York Evening World newspaper as a result of Evander being sued by Mr. Rock for not paying up. Apparently, he still owed $400 of that $1,000 bill. And as the article tells us, quote, it would seem that the king was tottering on his throne and striving hard to keep up appearances on a depleted treasury.
- [12:58]
April Callahan
They really had fun with this King of the Deuce moniker, let's just say. And it doesn't take much sleuthing to discover that by 1885, not only had Evander fallen on hard times, but he had apparently also blown almost entirely through his entire inheritance. Which you may remember from episode one was almost something like $2 million, and the news of his plight made national news. And numerous articles, including the front page of the New York Times, which in September of 1885, yeah, ran an article entitled the King of the Dudes, A Bright Social Star's Temporary Eclipse. And the article informs its readers that, quote, his embarrassment will bring grief to the hearts of many tailors, bootmakers, hatters, and other dealers in the articles that go to make up the personal outfit of a particularly gorgeous swell.
- [13:46]
Cassidy Zachary
Our listeners may remember from part one of this series that Dudes and Evander are synonymous. He is arguably the original dude, and his sartorial escapades and expressions were instrumental in the creation and maintenance of dude subculture, even if he would never in a million years call himself a dude. And as this article attests, he, quote, led the fashion among the young men of his own set. And when Barry Wall appeared in a scarlet neck scarf, striped blue vest with brass buttons, a collar that raised his ears, a monocle, and patent leather shoes with yellow uppers on the front of Brunswick at once blossomed with gilded use.
- [14:27]
April Callahan
Similarly arrayed this article, while lamenting Evander's fate and proffering some of the more outlandish claims about his wardrobe. For instance, he possessed, quote, a suit of clothes for every day of the year and owned no less than 500 pairs of trousers. This article is, regardless, surprisingly insightful into the nuances of his wardrobe, telling readers, quote, none of the peculiarities in his dress were mere whims. On the contrary, he followed them out in a manner which showed that they had been adopted only after a careful study of the effect. For instance, he never wore a collar of the same pattern as his shirt, and his shirts, though always startling, contain no colors but red and stuff sky blue.
- [15:05]
Cassidy Zachary
The article continues on to discuss the gloves he wore, as always being of light color with braid, trim and something I absolutely love. Cass quote, Mr. Barry always carried a glove buttoner to fasten them. So dress listeners, a glove buttoner, like the skirt lifter and also the chatelaine, is one of those historied technologies that has now been lost to fashion history. Perhaps we should see this return and also boot buttoners as well. I must say they were probably similar in their functionality, but we're going to hear more about dude fashion after a brief sponsor break. This episode is brought to you by ebay. We all have that piece, the one that's so you.
- [15:51]
April Callahan
You've basically become known for it, and if you don't yet fashionistas, you'll find it on ebay.
- [15:56]
Cassidy Zachary
That Miu Miu red leather bomber, the Cousteau Barcelona cowboy top, or that Patagonia.
- [16:01]
April Callahan
Fleece in the 2017 colorway.
- [16:03]
Cassidy Zachary
All these finds are all on ebay, along with millions of more main character pieces backed by authenticity guarantee. Ebay is the place for pre loved and vintage fashion.
- [16:13]
April Callahan
EBay Things people love Evander's financial woes did not appear to have compromised his walking fashion plates status, even if it did put his reign as King of the Dudes on rocky ground. A nationally syndicated article from November 1887 entitled Men who Love Dress provides a glimpse into what fashionable men were wearing, even if, quote, the interest which men take in their attire is more rapid and intense than they are usually willing to admit. And I want to digress for just one moment because someone that is featured in this article is a man by the name of Robert Garrett. He had 90 pairs of trousers in his wardrobe, among many other things. And there's this fabulous illustration depicting him observing his pants, his 90 pants, and they're all hanging on clothes hooks so by the back, you know, just down a line. And it really got me thinking, when was the hanger invented? So address listeners, that just may be an episode that is also coming our way next season.
- [17:14]
Cassidy Zachary
Yeah, I love that this two part episode is sparking all these other ideas. It's great. So featured alongside Robert Garrett is Evander, of course, who the author writes quite quote, despite the fun that is made of him, he is unquestionably a well dressed man. It is very seldom that he is betrayed into wearing loud or gaudy clothes, except at race meetings where it is generally considered that a man is justified in light checks and horsey clothes. And the author also rhapsodizes about an outfit that Evander wore, which he called, quote, the coolest looking covering imaginable. He wore loose trousers of a very light material with a small black and white check pattern. The coat was similar without lining our pockets. It was almost as thin as writing paper.
- [18:02]
April Callahan
And I just want to say, dress listeners, I hope you're enjoying these detailed descriptions as much as we are. They really help to paint the most vivid of portraits of fashions we would otherwise be only able to imagine. So we're having a lot of fun sharing them with you. And this article continues that with his paper thin suit, quote, Mr. Wall wore a shirt of heavy ribbed material and the cravat and a very low waistcoat were made of precisely the same stuff. Everything was pure white, including the buttons and binding on the waistcoat. The shoes were of untanned leather, very low and light, and the hose black. Mr. Wall wore a light straw hat and was the picture of comfort and coolness. Featured alongside this description is an illustration of Evander, the spinning image of a dude with all the now familiar dude accoutrements. Have you? Um, so as you know they're repeated so often as to be stereotypes by this point. So we have the short brimmed hat, high collar with turned down points and eyeglass watch chain and a cane if.
- [19:01]
Cassidy Zachary
I am not mistaken. And it appears to me at least that the author might have had a little bit of a man crush on Evander. Or maybe they were friends because he speaks so highly of him, especially after commenting on the quote, occasional sneers at the unusual nature of his attire. And he goes on to write, I rather suspect that the majority of men present sincerely envied him. And by the way, Barry Wall is no means the dolt that the papers are so fond of painting him. He is simply an amenable and rather dissipated man with a fondness for clubs, racing and the lighter amusements of the hour. But he is not a bad companion or by any means unpopular man among men.
- [19:44]
April Callahan
And this particular article is interesting for a number of reasons. So the first is it supports and promotes a male interest in fash, even if it's not something that most men would admit to at the time. And 2 it validates Evander as a fashion authority and fashion leader despite his lampooned dude status. 3 It also features Evander's arch nemesis, the actor Bob Hilliard, who in a shocking twist of fate had quote wrested the title of King of Dudes from Wall after his four year reign and four Perhaps most importantly, the the article was written by Hilliard's friend and New York sun journalist Blakely hall, who almost single handedly chronicled and let's be honest, obviously dramatized Evander and Bob's so called battle for dude supremacy.
- [20:30]
Cassidy Zachary
As published in numerous articles in the sun, the battle had all the drama of a Hollywood film, complete with a colorful cast of characters, the socialite and the actor, and all of the detailed fashion descriptions of a fashion magazine. And as with many of these articles, the question remains, was any of it actually true? But you will just have to decide for yourself. Regardless, it is a ton of fun and no doubt enraptured the public at the same time. Here's what we do know.
- [21:00]
April Callahan
So one month prior to Hall's aforementioned Men who Dress article in October 1887, he wrote an article for the sun detailing the battle to be king. Quote, not since the glittering days of Beau Brummel has there been such a fierce struggle for sartorial support, supremacy, as in New York City. Now there's a life and death neck and neck race for the dominion of West Kit, which is a vest and trousers, and no one knows what the end thereof may be. The dotty warriors are Evander Berry Wall and handsome Bob Hilliard, the actor. And the voracious sun chronicles with great fidelity the clash of colors on the Hoffman house steps and the vicinity. Hilliard's first notable coup was on Wednesday. He achieved prominence at once, but the next day, Wal appeared in three unique and elaborate new costumes in as many hours. Once more regaining his leadership, Saturday saw the struggle renewed in all its intensity. Wall's defeat of Hilliard had become known to do dumb.
- [21:55]
Cassidy Zachary
This is intense and I'm living for it. Hilliard had apparently lost his lead in this competition due to an unfortunate, quote, cape coat blunder. He had made, quote, the mistake of wearing a cape coat on a beautiful October day when the sun was shining brightly and the birds still twittered in the leafy trees. Though the air was chilly yesterday, Mr. Hilliard appeared in a summer apparel with a violet, which is essentially a June flower, in the lapel of his coat. Oh, my gosh. What are we gonna do, Cass? Right. But by the time of the article's publication, Hilliard had apparently once again regained his victory over Wall for the week with, quote, a suit of seven different shades of brown worn just after the matinee and a complete set of black jewelry in his evening dress.
- [22:47]
April Callahan
And hall definitively declared Hilliard the victor and the new king of the dudes in his November men who dress article, a title that he still maintained the following year when In April of 88, he made news for being horsewhipped by an irate drunk woman on the street, something he reportedly denied. And however, by that summer, Hilliard's own short reign had come to an end. He too had been dethroned by the Brazilian emperor's nephew, Tommaso Luis Anativia. And if you're thinking this all sounds like the type of drama featured in, you know, People or Us Weekly, you know, magazines of today, you are not wrong, because people loved to gossip in the 19th century. This is not new to today.
- [23:27]
Cassidy Zachary
No, it is not, writes Washington DC's Evening so Star. Quote, young Onativia's top hats are as bright as a new trade dollar, while his patent leather boots reflect the brilliancy of his sunny smile. It is said that the dashing Brazilian has over 50 pairs of trousers and fully as many waistcoats. Anativia is credited with spending some 40,000 or approximately $1.2 million today a year on his own sweet self, in view of which it is only natural that he should change his trousers 12 times a day to prevent them from getting out of style. Wow. I mean, does he sleep like. So he's changing his pants every hour. Well, by now we should all be familiar with the dude tropes on display in this article. We know that they really love their trousers, but of course, some of this is probably much exaggerated.
- [24:22]
April Callahan
And I love that phrase own sweet self. I feel like that's something that we would think would be like a today a phrase from today. But no, it was you took care of your own sweet self in the 19th century. So following Evander's five year reign, the dude crown would change hands multiple times over the years. In 1897, the reigning king of the dudes was one J. Walderkirk, a traveling cigar salesman of all things.
- [24:45]
Cassidy Zachary
But alas, the Gilded Age dudes of fashion did not evolve into the 20th century. In 1907, author Clarence Cullen asked in a nationally syndicated article, what has become of the Dude? And then going on to observe that the dude, both the person and the designation or term, had quote, passed from our midst.
- [25:06]
April Callahan
In answering his own question, Colon writes that dudes hadn't actually disappeared, but rather, he says, we've all become, in a way, dudes. And Colon follows the statement up with a surprisingly insightful and thoughtful commentary on the dude trope and culture. In hindsight, writing definitively that quote, as an out and out matter of square fact, the dude never was anything but a fashionably dressed men. All fashionably dressed men were considered dudes and therefore ridiculed. They were laughed at or sneered at on the streets. Everywhere they went, the comic publications derided them, caricatured them.
- [25:39]
Cassidy Zachary
He continues on quote, you recall when Eberry Wall of this town had a national name for being King of the Dudes? Well, Eberry Wall in his glory days was merely a perfectly dressed man. And he is. Yet for that matter, there isn't anything foolish or bizarre or, as the millionaires say, ultra, about the way he decked himself out. He his clothes, cravats, hats, shoes and canes were new models. That's all. He had a lot of clothes and things. Therefore, he was a Dude and the king of his tribe. Nowadays, 9 out of 10 men of leisure and means and tastes array themselves more ornately than eberry will ever dress at the top of his fame as a dude. And nobody calls them dudes.
- [26:21]
April Callahan
And one of the reasons that colin gives for this dude degradation Was pure jealousy of the dude wardrobe by people who could only dream of ever affording it. Quote, the great body of males used secretly to envy the so called dude his fine apparel until the great body of males found that they too could wear the ornate stuff or at any rate imitations of it. And then, and only then, the fashionable dressed man was allowed to walk his way in peace without ridicule or side.
- [26:46]
Cassidy Zachary
Slamming, as colin alludes to. The aspirational dude wardrobe was thus democratized. Quote, the old time Sunday suit of clothes has gone. Men working at the trades want to look well all the time on weekdays, just as well as Sundays, end quote. And it goes on to say, in recent years, these gangs of men working various trades, Carpenters, iron workers, plasterers, steam fitters and so on, Come away from their jobs in their working clothes. Canvas overalls, rough shoes, bent derbies, hickory shirts, and so on. Now at knockoff, they dress for the street. They tuck away their working clothes and slip into neat sack suits, neat walking shoes, neat hats, neat shirts and ties. Could they have done these things a dozen years ago without arousing the derision of their less ambitious mates?
- [27:35]
April Callahan
And as colin kind of alludes to with, you know, the imitation and knockoffs that he's talking about, this democratization of the dude wardrobe is largely thanks to mass manufacturing of ready to wear clothing, Something that is exemplified by the abundance of male order catalogs by the end of the 19th century. So he says, go into the little country towns far removed from any metropolis, and you'll find youngish chaps decked out in togs that they couldn't possibly have worn 10 or a dozen years ago, they're mail order dressers. They watch the back pages of the magazines for new kinks and apparel. They vie with each other in capturing the new stuff.
- [28:10]
Cassidy Zachary
First, colin lists all the dude isms that are now fashionable and societally acceptable in 1907, such as parting the hair in the middle, Patent leather shoes, spats, manicures, which are quote everywhere, even in barber shops. And most of us have our nails fixed up by the girls as often as we have our haircut, end quote. Also fashionable dude isms, fancy waistcoats, tuxedo jackets, and the list goes on. And colin argues, dudes disappeared once it became societally acceptable for men to participate in the extravagances up fashion. But this only happened once More and more men could afford to participate in.
- [28:50]
April Callahan
These extravagances, and Colon ultimately concludes quote the dude so called was a dauntless pioneer, a brave and gallant servant of his epoch. And in many ways we don't disagree, dress listeners, because dudes embrace the art of dress. At a time when strict societal gender codes designated sartorial expressions exclusively to their female peers, they were shamed, ridiculed, and at Evander's case in particular, put on blast across the country for his dedication to dress. And yet, he and his fellow dudes remained undeterred in their pursuit of all things fashion. So what of our dethroned king in the wake of his reign and in the wake of the Dudes, we find out in the conclusion of our two part series after a word from our sponsors. This episode is brought to you by Indeed. When your computer breaks, you don't wait for it to magically start working again. And you fixed the problem. So why wait to hire the people your company desperately needs? Use indeed sponsored jobs to hire top talent fast. And even better, you only pay for results. There's no need to wait. Speed up your hiring with a $75 sponsored job credit@ Indeed.com podcast. Terms and conditions apply.
- [30:05]
Cassidy Zachary
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- [30:07]
April Callahan
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Cassidy Zachary
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April Callahan
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Cassidy Zachary
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April Callahan
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Cassidy Zachary
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April Callahan
Speed slow after 35 gigabytes of network's.
- [30:33]
Cassidy Zachary
Busy taxes and fees extra c mintmobile.com welcome back. Evander reflected on fashion and the dudes subculture in general, albeit briefly, in his memoirs, which were written at the end of his life and published the same year of his death at the age of 80 in 1940. He writes, quote, I have been so hemmed as the King of the Dudes that I should think I should stand up for myself and my generation. We dress as we pleased. People should wear what suits them and pleases them and add to the individuality of life. And that's all I did.
- [31:06]
April Callahan
And while Evander downplays the centrality of clothing to his life and his memoirs, for Instance, he writes, for to me, clothes were always little more than an accompaniment of what seemed to me much more interesting and important. Regardless, Evander never lost his commitment to the art of dress. For the entirety of his life, he only ever maintained the highest level of sartorial excellence.
- [31:27]
Cassidy Zachary
Evander dedicated his memoir to the love of his life, quote, the adored memory of my dear wife Lami, whose every thought was kind, who had passed away only a few years prior in 1936. The couple have been married since 1887, living their lives together with a series of beloved chow dogs in France, where they moved just before World War I. And they actually received the French Legion d' Honneur award for their fundraising efforts for wounded soldiers during World War I.
- [31:57]
April Callahan
And numerous photographs of Evander throughout the 20th century reveal him to be a man of fashion until the very end of his life. A photograph of him and one of his beloved chow dogs from the 1920s shows that he still very much wore a version of the dude attire of his youth. A trilby hat, high collar that brushes against the outline of his jaw, an impeccably tailored suit, two tone shoes, spats and a cane. The photograph is actually from a book edited by his wife and entitled the Memories of Chi Chi the Chow, a famous dog who put paw to paper. And as Abe book tells us, the book was, quote, the faux memoirs of a real dog, a Chow who was born on Long island in 1908 and lived until 1924 and was in his heyday one of the most famous dogs in the world. In addition to being a New York show dog, Chi Chi accompanied his wealthy owners, Evander Barry Wall and his wife on their European travels.
- [32:50]
Cassidy Zachary
Indeed, the Wall's dogs had quite the reputation, and a fashionable one at that, thanks to the fact that Evander actually commissioned his custom Parisian shirt maker Charvet to make he and his do dogs matching collars and cravats, which is amazing and also something immortalized by the famous satirist SEM. And we will of course post an image of SEM's illustration of this. But Evander and his B collar dogs were frequently seen together in Paris's famed Ritz in their matching attire. So, as the New York Times has noted in his obituary, Wall was quite one of the most colorful figures in France since the World War to the end, he was the fabulous and eccentric dresser of his earlier days.
- [33:39]
April Callahan
Today, 88 years after Evander's death, and 139 years since they first came on the scene, dude survives, even if somewhere along the way its fashionable connotations were almost entirely lost to history. And this happened somewhere between the debut of dude ranches of the early 20th centuries, where wealthy city slickers could live out their cowboy Fantasies, and the 1969 film Easy Rioter, when Wyatt, played by Peter Fonda, explains to Jack Nicholson's character that, quote, dude means nice guy. Dude means regular sort of person.
- [34:10]
Cassidy Zachary
And while investigating the details of that transition falls outside of the scope of today's podcast, we do hope that you have enjoyed our surprising trip into dude fashion history. And we hope it stands as another testament to the fact that fashion is always connected and relevant to so many other elements of our daily lives, even those not immediately recognizable.
- [34:32]
April Callahan
And that does it for us today. Dress listeners, may you consider the fashion history that may be hiding in your everyday vocabulary. Next time you get dressed.
- [34:46]
Cassidy Zachary
Please head to restpodcast on Instagram or rest Podcast without the underscore on Facebook to check out the visual content content associated with each week's episodes.
- [34:57]
April Callahan
And remember, we always love hearing from you, so if you'd like to write to us, you can do so@hellorushistory.com DressedHistory.com is also our website where you can sign up for our monthly newsletter, our in person tours and online fashion history courses and you can check out whatever else we have up our finely tailored sleeves.
- [35:15]
Cassidy Zachary
We get so many questions from you all about our recommendations for fashion history books, so if you are interested you can always find a link in our show Notes to our Bookshop Bookshelf. So that address is bookshop.org shop dressed and there you can find over 150 of our favorite fashion history titles and.
- [35:37]
April Callahan
Do you love Dressed but want to skip the ads? You can now sign up for Ad free Listening with any tier on our Dressed History Patreon where you can also chat with your fellow fashion history lovers and attend one of our live Q and A's and so much more.
- [35:51]
Cassidy Zachary
We are also excited to now be part of the Airwave Network and their premium ad free history subscription Airwave History plus. Available on Apple Podcasts. The subscription brings dress and also 27 other popular history podcasts ad free for just 5.99 per month. More information on Patreon and Airwave is available at the link in our bio.
- [36:14]
April Callahan
Thank you as always for tuning in and more dressed coming your way very soon. The history of Fashion is a production of dressed media.
- [36:26]
Cassidy Zachary
Have you ever wondered how inbred the Habsburgs really were?
- [36:30]
April Callahan
What women in the past used for birth control? Or what Queen Victoria's nine children got.
- [36:36]
Cassidy Zachary
Up to on the History Teatime podcast.
- [36:39]
April Callahan
I profile remarkable queens and LGBTQ plus royals, explore royal family trees, and delve into women's medical history and other fascinating topics. Join me every Tuesday for History Teatime wherever fine podcasts are enjoyed.
- [36:57]
Cassidy Zachary
This is Jen and Jenny from Ancient History Fangirl and we're here to tell you about Jenny's scorching historical romantasy based on Alaric of the Visigoths. Enemy of My Dreams Amanda Boucher, best selling author of the Kingmaker Chronicle, says, this book has everything high stakes, action, grit, ferocity and blazing passion. Julia and Alaric are colliding storms against a backdrop of the brutal dangers of ancient Rome. They'll do anything to carve their peace out of this treacherous world and not just survive, but rule. Enemy of My Dreams is available wherever books are sold.