Summary of "Duncan Trussell Family Hour" Episode 690: Garrett McNamara
Release Date: May 19, 2025
Introduction
In Episode 690 of the Duncan Trussell Family Hour, host Duncan Trussell welcomes Garrett McNamara, one of the most renowned big wave surfers globally. The episode delves into Garrett's extraordinary journey in big wave surfing, his spiritual connections with the ocean, the profound risks involved, and how his personal life intertwines with his passion for surfing.
Big Wave Surfing and Its Majesty
Duncan opens the conversation by expressing his admiration for Garrett's work, particularly highlighting the HBO Max show "100 Foot Wave Season 3." He marvels at the spectacle of surfers tackling massive waves, likening them to "superheroes" and "titans of the sea." [00:00]
Garrett McNamara shares his current location in Hawaii, preparing for a pilgrimage to Nazaré for the show's premiere on May 22nd. He reflects on his enduring love for big wave surfing, despite challenges like his 2016 injury, which has slightly tempered his ability to ride giant waves but hasn't diminished his passion. [02:41]
The Spiritual Dance with the Ocean
The conversation transitions to the spiritual aspects of big wave surfing. Duncan articulates a vision of surfers harmonizing with nature, suggesting that their interaction with the ocean transcends mere sport and becomes a "spiritual exploration." [05:38]
Garrett concurs, emphasizing the "dance with mother nature," highlighting the balance and harmony required to ride these formidable waves. He believes that everyone has their own version of a "hundred-foot wave"—a personal challenge or passion that they passionately pursue. [07:28]
Risks and Responsibilities
Duncan draws parallels between big wave surfing and other extreme sports like free climbing, questioning the relative dangers. Garrett responds by elaborating on the heightened risks faced by Jet Ski operators who assist surfers. He explains that while surfers contend with the raw power of nature, operators manage complex machinery under unpredictable conditions, making their role equally perilous. [08:31]
Garrett recounts a pivotal experience at Jaws in 2003, where he rode a perfect barrel wave that brought him to tears. This moment epitomizes the profound connection and the sheer power of the ocean that surfers engage with. [11:59]
Personal Reflections and Life Beyond the Waves
As the dialogue progresses, Garrett shares personal insights into how fatherhood has reshaped his relationship with surfing. Before having children, he was willing to risk everything for his passion. Post-fatherhood, his priorities shifted towards safety and preparation, ensuring he remains present for his family. [27:44]
He reveals plans to move back to Italy to live in a biodiverse, organic village devoid of modern distractions like Wi-Fi and EMF, seeking a deeper connection with nature and his inner self. This move underscores his desire to balance his adventurous spirit with a stable family life. [32:09]
Philosophical Insights and Mindset
Duncan introduces Lojong mind training, a set of Buddhist slogans aimed at fostering mindfulness and personal responsibility. The discussion underscores the importance of taking responsibility for one's actions and maintaining a high vibration in daily life, reflecting the serenity and presence found in big wave surfing. [44:16]
Garrett echoes this by emphasizing the need to stay connected with one's feelings and the present moment. He attributes his attraction to big waves as a means to "feel more" and experience life more intensely. [44:18]
Technological and Logistical Challenges
The duo explores the technological advancements and logistical complexities essential for big wave surfing. Garrett recounts a collaboration with Mercedes in 2012, where they developed specialized surfboards to withstand extreme conditions. This partnership showcases the blend of cutting-edge technology with the raw elements of nature required to tackle colossal waves. [54:21]
He also details the meticulous planning involved in tracking and riding big waves, from setting up teams across various countries to ensuring equipment readiness at the last minute before a storm. This process highlights the unpredictable and ever-changing nature of surfing large waves. [57:00]
Conclusion and Mutual Admiration
The episode concludes with mutual reflections on the harmonious yet challenging life led by big wave surfers. Duncan expresses deep admiration for Garrett's experiences and philosophical outlook, while Garrett appreciates the show's role in inspiring others. They both celebrate the profound connections formed through surfing and the beauty of harmonizing with nature's immense power. [60:40]
Notable Quotes
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Duncan Trussell [05:38]:
"I think that's one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. The joining together of humanity and the ocean and life produces this beautiful possibility."
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Garrett McNamara [07:28]:
"There's a lot of crossover in normal life and big wave surfing. And I think everybody has their own hundred foot wave. Everybody has their own challenges."
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Garrett McNamara [11:59]:
"I just feel so blessed and so lucky. And the feeling on the wave... it was the most spiritual, endorphin, dopamine, you name it."
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Garrett McNamara [27:44]:
"I told myself I would never die surfing. I would always prepare and always be ready..."
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Garrett McNamara [44:18]:
"We're living in this really distorted reality right now. And the only thing that's really important is family."
Final Thoughts
This episode of the Duncan Trussell Family Hour offers a captivating glimpse into the life of Garrett McNamara, blending adrenaline-fueled adventures with deep philosophical insights and personal reflections. Listeners are invited to appreciate not only the sheer thrill of big wave surfing but also the profound connections and responsibilities that come with such an extraordinary lifestyle.
