C (5:53)

You find yourself standing in a corridor at Grand Central Terminal in New York. This famous meeting place is more than just a train station. It is a storied crossroads of New York City, meaning so many things to thousands and thousands of people. It is a place in which to arrive and to depart. It is a meeting spot for long lost friends. It is a hub of commerce, offering nearly anything a person could need in the course of a day. Most of all, it is a repository of history. The building around you is a magnificent living example of the masterful Beaux Arts architectural style. It represents a time when utility and beauty could live side by side. Its classical details, its pillars and arches provide a backdrop to for the lavish French embellishments that Beaux Arts buildings were known for. So much happens here at Grand Central every day. At this moment, however, you are standing in the terminal alone. If this is a dream, it is a beautiful one. With an odd sort of certainty, you know that you are expected somewhere. In fact, there is a man's voice ahead of you, calling out to show you the way. In a friendly and coaxing manner, he is directing you specifically to track 34. You are following on his heels and he sets an easy pace. As you approach the platform, the sense that you are alone begins to melt away. Your guide has stopped and turned to face you. With a welcoming gesture and a wide smile, he sweeps his arm to the side as if presenting the boarding area for your approval. He tells you that you are just on time to catch your train. It is a wide platform, but unlike others you have seen, there are no pillars running down the center. Instead, a crimson carpet has been rolled the length of the walk by a group of station attendants wearing white shirts, suspenders and red caps. Other passengers are milling about. Uniformed porters are assisting them, loading up their trunks and hat boxes and Showing them where to find their accommodations. All around you are the cheerful sounds of the bustling platform. Passengers call out to their children to step lively. Porters can be overheard politely asking people to follow them to whatever car they are boarding. You hear two men exchange a friendly greeting. A woman's laugh floats out of a train window as she waves goodbye to a friend. These travelers are all dressed very stylishly. Perfectly coiffed. Ladies are wearing elegant fitted suits and pretty dresses that fall below the knee. Some of these outfits have puffed sleeves. Many of these women are showing off smart looking hats that match their dresses. The men on the platform look equally put together. It seems everyone is expected to look their best. The men's suits vary in color. Some are beige or light brown. Others are gray. Some have pinstripes or small plaid checks. Many are double breasted. Pants are wide legged with a cuff at the bottom. Under their suit jackets, some of the men are wearing vests. Everyone looks very comfortable. As if it is an everyday matter to be so buttoned up. You have never traveled with such a fine looking crowd. You suddenly wonder if you will stick out like a sore thumb amongst these well heeled elites. Looking down at yourself, you are delighted to find that you will fit right in. Your clothing is perfectly turned out as if you've been dressed by an expert for the occasion. You lift your head high and feel ready to join these sophisticated travelers wherever they are headed. You continue to follow the smartly uniformed porter who led you here. He is wearing the same immaculate blue suit as all the other porters working on the platform. Its shiny buttons gleam in a perfect row up the front. Matching the spotless plate on his jaunty cap. He walks confidently among the people and their luggage along the platform. A seasoned professional. Your attention turns to the train itself. This is the 20th Century Limited, a wonderful example of a 1930s luxury train. It stretches the length of the platform just like the pictures you've seen on vintage posters. This elegant conveyance seems made for speed, all round edges and silver metal with blue racing stripes. To you it looks like an old fashioned science fiction movie. You could well believe it was a futuristic robot on wheels as imagined by a person from from this time period. It's an Art Deco dream, a combination of technology and defiant design. The red carpet seems as long as a sports field. But your porter eventually indicates that you have reached your train car. He is carrying a small overnight bag that you realize belongs to you. Then he hands you a ticket that indicates your compartment number and graciously steps aside to allow you to board. As you walk down the hall of this fine looking sleeper car, he tells you that you are sure to have a peaceful night's sleep. He says the train departs at 5pm for Chicago and that it will take just 16 hours to get there. You will have plenty of time to enjoy the views and have a luxurious dinner. After you have enjoyed your evening, you will be able to retire to your completely private apartment. As you look for your compartment number, he adds that this train is famous for providing its passengers a blissfully smooth nighttime trip. Reaching your door, you look back at him. He winks to you and nods his head approvingly. You know you are in the right place. You open the door of the compartment and walk into your snug private cocoon. You feel like a movie star entering your dressing room. The space is compact, but it exudes a slick urban sophistication that makes use of every inch. A petite velvety sofa seat is located on the wall cleverly. A bunk bed hangs above it. The floor is carpeted in a snazzy art Deco pattern, which provides a stylish contrast to the muted colors in the room. In fact, all the furnishings have a purposely elegant feel in shades of blue and grey. This room is like an aristocrat. It has no need to be showy in order to be luxurious. You take this in for a moment and then turn to bid farewell to your porter who has set down your small bag. He wishes you a lovely journey and departs, closing the door behind him. Peeking out the window, you enjoy some people watching as the rest of the passengers make their way into the train. From the platform, you can tell that your departure is imminent. There's a sense of energy and excitement for these last moments, and you feel almost as if you are launching into outer space rather than simply beginning a journey on land. This train feels ready to go and you are delighted by your private hideaway. You are part of this grand atmosphere, but you are safely in your own tiny bubble. It is an intoxicating combination. After taking a moment to settle into your compartment, you open up an interior door and find a small private bathroom in there. You are fascinated by its clever design and even happier to know that that you have it all to yourself. Opening up your bag, you see there is a pair of flannel pajamas in there, as well as basic necessities like a toothbrush and some soap. Your favorite book is also nestled amongst your overnight items. You look forward to snuggling into your bunk with that later. A whistle blows, and you hear a conductor cry out, all aboard. Looking at the platform once again, you see all the passengers have now vacated the boarding area and the porters have loaded up all the luggage. Promptly at 5 o', clock, the train lurches gently and begins to pull out of the station. You are mesmerized by the sight as the red carpet slides by and eventually recedes into the distance. At first there is darkness as the train makes its way through the tunnels of Grand Central Terminal. Soon, however, the muted early evening light streams through your window. You are on your way. You only have a couple of hours of daylight to enjoy, so you take full advantage of the sights as they drift by. There will be plenty of time to eat dinner in a little while. Before you head to the dining room, you want to enjoy the view from the observation area at the back of the car. Venturing out of your compartment, you make your way to the nearby lounge, which is decorated with chic urban murals. The lights are low and welcoming, and soft blue leather seats for two or three people are thoughtfully arranged around the space. This allows a surprising number of people to be there at the same time without being crowded together. Near the end of the car, a rounded loveseat and a mural seem to section off an additional nook. At the back of the train.

A (20:12)

You.

C (20:12)

Pass by a couple of other passengers who are comfortably sitting here and there, chatting quietly amongst themselves and reading newspapers. Peeking around the partition, you are happy to find that there is more seating on the other side that allows you to enjoy the view out the back of the train. Luckily, none of the other passengers have come back here, so you settle into the comfy leather cushions, running your hand across their cool blue surface. With the little wall partitioning you from the rest of the room, it's like you're in a secret pocket of solitude. While you watch, the panorama along your route is unfolding and ceaselessly receding behind you. It is mesmerizing how the scenery slowly transitions from the city to the country. You are glad that night has not yet fallen because the sparkling Hudson river becomes visible next to the train quite near you. It is such an impressive sight with a dynamic shoreline that seems to constantly change as you get further and further from the city. You think how different this is from the emptiness you're used to seeing at the window of an airplane. This relaxation, the rhythmic motion of the train car and the beautiful view are certainly delivering the luxurious experience you'd been promised by your porter at Grand Central. You stay like this for a while, happily losing Count of the Minutes One of the most relaxing aspects of this train journey is that you have nowhere to be and nothing to accomplish. You are merely expected to go along for the ride while the conductor and the staff make sure the train stays on time. At some point, the light outside begins to dim and you start thinking about locating the dining car. Giving up your secret spot at the back of the car, you retrace your steps through the lounge. It looks like you are not the only one who is thinking of your evening meal. The lounge has quietly become almost deserted as each passenger or pair of travelers has had the same thought. In fact, you find the dining car quite easily simply by going with the flow of traffic. Everyone is walking in the same direction, you have overheard someone saying. This train has two identical dining cars, each serving 67 passengers. You end up with the one nearest to you. Inside, it is a marvel. Genteel waiters are at the ready, taking care of passengers who are seated at cleverly nested tables. Some of these are just for one or two intimate companions. They are arranged on either side of the car, facing the center aisle.

A (24:02)

Where.

C (24:02)

There is only a single diner. The person does not seem at all out of place because the table is small. In the case of a couple eating together, they are cozily nested together on one side, leaving the aisle free for waitstaff. Then, periodically, tables for four people divide those rows much like the lounge car. The juxtaposition of the different sized tables facing different directions gives a feeling of privacy and confidentiality that belies the small space. It is not just the arrangement of the dining car that creates its charm. A record player or perhaps a radio fills the car with the latest popular songs. Bright white tablecloths, shining silver utensils and sparkling glassware adorn each table. As you pass by on the way to your seat, you notice there is a little branded book of matches at every place. You haven't even seen the menu yet, but you are expecting something impressive just judging by the look of the room. You take a seat at one of these lovely tables and pick up the menu that lies before you. The service is even more luxurious than you had imagined. There is something here that must appeal to almost everybody. The a la carte menu tempts you with options such as shrimp cocktail, imported caviar, an omelette and roasted chicken. This alone would have more than satisfied you, however. You may also choose from dinner entrees that include charcoal broiled steak, baked Philadelphia capon and fresh lake whitefish. These are all served with a la carte sides and a salad from the drinks menu. You are amused to see that you could get an entire pot of malted milk or hot cocoa if you were feeling like reliving your childhood. Furthermore, the desserts are very enticing. How would you choose among butterscotch sundaes, deep dish cherry pie and pancakes with marmalade? As you watch the staff travel efficiently from the small tables to the kitchen, you cannot imagine how they produce all this fine food in such a tiny space. The dishes appear from the hidden kitchen as if conjured by a magician. A waiter appears and politely asks if he can take your order. You are in the mood for having a meal that is on the lighter side, so you order something delicious off the a la carte menu. He responds that you have made an excellent choice and then vanishes seamlessly into the invisible kitchen of wonders to procure your dinner. While you wait, you enjoy the twilight scenery that flashes by in the opposite window. As promised, this train offers an extremely smooth ride. Now that night is falling, you can see the moon shining on the Hudson River. Branches make a moving web of intrigue against the sky. Tiny lights twinkle in the distance as homes and businesses light up for the night. You feel as if you're flying past the hustle and bustle of the world as it beds down and tucks in for the evening. Your dinner arrives with a flourish. After refilling your water, your waiter offers his assistance should you need anything else and then politely disappears again. Meanwhile, the dining car has become completely filled with delighted passengers. You see all sorts of of well heeled travelers at the tables for four. Some families are with children. At the smaller tables you see couples and many people who are traveling on their own. Your fellow diners sip tea, read books and engage in conversation with their companions. This car is a hub of activity, yet the sense of relaxation is pervasive. You take your time having dinner. When you're finished, you notice that the other passengers are also beginning to clear out. The families appear to be heading back to their private compartments, but you are not quite ready to do that. Out of curiosity, you follow a pair of finely dressed people out the other side of the dining car. When you overhear them saying they want to visit the Lookout Lounge, you soon find yourself in the very last car of the train. A few other patrons are seated in the buttery leather chairs enjoying refreshments and views of the night lights of New York State. You find a little nook for yourself and order your own favorite beverage. A waiter brings it to you with a cocktail napkin, and you lean back in the soft seat, listening to the chatter around you. One man boasts that this train goes 960 miles in 960 minutes. He tells his companion that there will only be a couple more stops and that the last one will be while everyone is asleep. Having already picked up passengers in the New York cities of Harmon and Albany, the train will stop again around bedtime in Syracuse. Then, just after midnight, it will pause one final time in Buffalo while its lucky passengers are sweetly dreaming. The train will then pass the shores of Lake Erie as it rockets by Toledo. Eventually it will fly around the tip of Lake Michigan after sunrise, delivering all these travelers to Chicago by the time they are done with breakfast. You think it would be nice to see Lake Erie, but you also look forward to a good night's sleep. The prospect of awakening to the shores of Lake Michigan is uplifting. You imagine the croissant you will probably have while you're drinking your tea or your coffee, all the while enjoying the sparkling waters outside your window. It's an exciting prospect and something to look forward to. What a fitting end, you think, to this unforgettable journey. You're beginning to feel a bit drowsy after your lovely dinner and your day of exploration. Contented to stay where you are for a few minutes, you sink further into your luxurious leather seat and close your eyes as you sip on your nightcap. The low hum of conversation drifts around you, occasionally punctuated by a quiet laugh. You focus briefly on a conversation between two men nearby. One of them is telling the other that he is going to ring the secretary shortly so he can dictate a letter to a colleague. You smile to yourself without opening your eyes and wonder if there is anything that is not provided on this train. When you have finished your drink, you begin to think fondly of your compartment. With some reluctance, you bid your comfy lounge perch farewell and make your way back in the direction of your sleeper compartment via the dining car. As you enter the dining room, you are dazzled to see that it has been transformed since you were last there. All the white tablecloths have been removed and replaced with dark red ones. Where stewards were serving dinner, you now see a cafe full of people who are socializing and enjoying the late evening atmosphere. Two women laugh over a private joke in the corner. Couples bend their heads together to speak quietly in the dim late evening light. A man in the corner sips a cocktail while scribbling in a notebook. Above it all, a phonograph continues to play jazz standards. As you pass the dining car steward, you stop to ask him how you will get breakfast in the morning. He smiles broadly and tells you that you hardly need to lift a finger. Just call the dining car, he says, and they will bring your breakfast to your private room. You imagine yourself cozied up in your pajamas, watching the waters of Lake Michigan slip by, and your hot morning drink arrives with a newspaper. Delightful. Nodding a friendly farewell to the helpful steward, you continue to your compartment. With a small thrill of anticipation, you open the door and slip inside. Someone has adjusted the lights low for you and turned your bed down. It's like being welcomed home. You close the small curtains, blocking out the night and giving your petite room a feeling of secrecy. The tiny bathroom area makes it easy for you to get ready for bed. In a few minutes you're in your comfy flannel pyjamas with your face freshly scrubbed and your teeth brushed. You retrieve your book from your overnight bag and set it up on your bunk bed. Then you easily climb the clever little ladder and lie down on the soft matt. Pulling the crisp covers over yourself, you settle down to read. As you turn the pages, you have the comforting sense of being rocked lightly in a cradle. The rhythmic sound of the train is very soothing in a predictable way. You are dimly aware of the occasional passenger walking by in the hall. At one point you hear someone making a request for an overnight shoe shine. As the minutes tick by, you read page after page after page. You know you will not stay awake until the train stops in Buffalo, and that's fine with you. When all is finally silent and the words in your book begin to fade before your eyes, you know it is time to go to sleep. You slip out of your little bed and go down the ladder to put your book away and turn off the lights. But you also want to open the curtains because you are eager to open your eyes to the sunrise tomorrow. As you lean over to do that, you notice something sitting on the small table near the window. It is an envelope. You pick it up and open it. Inside, you find a ticket. It is a return passage. On this very train. You will be able to spend the day in Chicago and then do the whole trip over again. Heading back to New York City tomorrow afternoon, you are filled with a sense of gratitude and happiness. You climb back into your comfortable bunk and completely relax into the mattress. The window is dark, but you sometimes see a small light go by like a shooting star. Closing your eyes, you feel like you have become one with the sound of the train, its wheels ticking rhythmically as it travels onward. As you slip further and further and further under its spell, you imagine the shores of the Great Lakes as you will see them tomorrow. Through the early waves of sleep. Your mind wanders, and you imagine returning to your secret spot in the back of the lounge where you can see the view at its best. You think about how you will curl up there and watch the miles pass and disappear into the distance. You imagine one more exquisite day of travel aboard this beautiful luxury train.

B (40:08)

And.

C (40:08)

Then you drift into a wonderful sleep.