
From the grandest palace to the poorest cottage, so-called ‘stained’ cloths brought colour and joy to everyday life in England for hundreds of years. These specially painted and stamped fabrics formed the backdrop to funerals, ceremonies,...
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Jo Andrews
Gloucester Cathedral is more than 900 years old. It stands not far from the River Severn in the west of England. Its honey coloured stone has weathered a great deal of history and its share of celebration and tragedy, of death, war, famine and glory. The building we see today was beginning to take shape in the late 1300s, but even so, it would have seemed a very different place then. It was home to a Benedictine monastery with a number of monks whose role was to care for the spiritual and sometimes the earthly needs of the people. At some stage in the late 1300s, the Gloucester monks, working in the open cloisters, transcribed hundreds of recipes, charms and spells covering almost every aspect of life at the time, and bound them into a small book.
Rebecca Phillips
Unfortunately, my monastic predecessors never thought to write down on it the exact date when they copy it out. I love it when they. Sometimes you get these little wondrous bits in medieval books where they actually put the date that they've been copying, because I finally got here by my birthday, unfortunately, no marginalia like that for us in this, but we can date the content from the fact that that chronicle stops at a certain date and they haven't added to it, and that stops in the 1390s. So we think it's not been added to after the 1390s.
Jo Andrews
That's Rebecca Phillips, who's Gloucester Cathedral's archivist. The book she takes care of is immensely important, not because it's beautifully illustrated or written. It isn't. But because it gives us a glimpse into the lives of people at that time, how they coped, what they thought was important, how they celebrated and mourned. In a sense, the book is a manual of how they lived and it allows us, that rare thing, to get a little closer to who our ancestors really were as people and the world they actually lived in.
Rebecca Phillips
So we have no accounts, we have no minute books, we have no records of decisions, we have no lovely letters from monks to each other. We've lost almost everything that tells us about the life, apart from this, this lovely little treasure. For us, it's the book that I would cry if we ever lost. I cry about others, but this is the one that would make me sad to my soul if we ever lost it.
Jo Andrews
Welcome to Haptic and Hughes Tales of Textiles. I'm Jo Andrews. I'm a hand weaver, interested in what cloth tells us about ourselves and our communities. Often the stories and information that textiles give us are ignored and we lose a whole dimension of human experience. Frequently, the hands that create the textiles we treasure remain anonymous, or the fabrics themselves. Have perished over the years and can no longer bear witness. One of the important things that the Gloucester manuscript contains is 30 recipes for stains. You might think on first reading that these were dyes, but they weren't. They were something else altogether. A forgotten textile craft that provided much of the colour, joy and backdrop to medieval life. Stains were water based or sometimes oil based colours used to paint and stamp textiles. And it's only recently that we've begun to understand how important these were, partly because almost all of the stained cloth has perished and the recipes have only survived in books like the Gloucester manuscript. Mark Clark, who translated the recipes in the Gloucester book into modern English, is an associate professor of technical art history. He's very clear about the difference between staining and dyeing.
Mark Clark
Cloth staining is different from dyeing. Dyeing is where you use a solid colour and you get the whole cloth and you immerse it in a vat and the whole thing comes out the same color on both sides all over. Staining meant making figurative designs on cloth using a water based medium, and that was the essential. It's taken a while to unpick this. That's not written anywhere as a definition. I've had to figure that out by looking at the recipes and looking at the law cases and the running battles in the streets between the painters and stainers over this. The painters and stainers fought for years, until 15 oh, 1502, I think they combined the two guilds in London.
Jo Andrews
The point about stained cloth was that compared to tapestry or embroidery, it was quick to make. It was painted onto hand woven linen or woollen cloth and it would have been used to provide colour in the poorest home to the grandest palace. Every important ceremony, funeral, pageant, procession, masque, tilt or tournament required banners, flags, pennants or scenery. And before the Reformation, it would have been ubiquitous in England's brightly coloured churches, abbeys and monasteries. Here's Mark Clark again.
Mark Clark
They were a truly. I don't want to say democratic, that's completely the wrong word. They were everywhere. So we have wills and we have inventories and such like documents, and they show us that there were stained cloths in the royal palaces. There were stained cloths in the rooms of people described as servants and everything in between. They were in churches, they were in cathedrals, they were in lots and lots and lots of domestic settings. They were used as banners outside shops. Suddenly somebody dies, some big, big name person dies. You don't have time to make a tapestry cover for his coffin. It's not going to happen in Time. Tapestries take months, years to make a decent sized tapestry, but you can knock up a stained cloth in a couple of days. They're excellent for ephemeral things. So say the king of somewhere is coming to visit, or the bishop of somewhere is coming to visit, or the king of your own country is coming to visit and you don't have a huge amount of warning for this man coming. You need to line the streets with banners. You need tabards for people, you need tabards for their heralds, you need tabards for anybody who's remotely important. You, maybe you need little tabots for the choir to smarten them up a bit. You perhaps want fake scenery. You want theatrical style scenery for masks in the sense of theatrical performances. You will perhaps build a mock castle entrance over the main street into town. You will build pavilions, you will have flags, you will have banners. And all these need to be made in a huge hurry. And there are records of these where somebody goes, right, to pay so and so to make, you know, some implausibly large number of banners, and he'll knock these things off in a week. So if you're perhaps going to have a great meeting of, you know, major forces in a field somewhere, I mean, the Field of the Cloth of Gold is an example that springs to mind. That's famous because it was more dramatic. It was actually cloth of gold, but for pretty much everything else, they'd be stained. All these tents and these pavilions would be stained. I am absolutely convinced of this.
Jo Andrews
And Mark says that people would have used them widely in their homes as a form of medieval interior decor.
Mark Clark
People would have had them for curtains to hang over the door, people would have had them to hang over the walls just to make the place cosier. And of course, they keep the draughts out and they help with the damp, but mainly they just look nice and they're giving you a double glazing effect on your wall. You know where the cloth is holding there. Lots and lots and lots of houses would have had these great to larger or smaller ones. Bed hangings, testers over the bed cushions, bed covers and so on. Enormous amount. There would have been acres of this stuff. Absolutely huge, huge, huge quantities of it.
Jo Andrews
This knowledge upends my view of this time as visually dull, especially for poorer people. Life was certainly hard and I had thought that to our eyes, it would also have been relatively plain, bare and colourless. But it seems medieval interior decoration was more complex than I thought. Because of the stainers, the age was much brighter and more saturated than we Imagine.
Mark Clark
So staining, you can do just patterns, simple repeats, which, again, is where the block printing comes in. You can stain with molds, you can stain with blocks, so you get a simple repeats, or you can do pictures of things. Now, you could be just painting simple designs of birds and flowers, or you can stain mythological scenes, very popular. Battle scenes, very popular. And again, these inventories and such, like, we'll say a stained cloth depicting Cecilia and musical instruments, say, or depicting such and such, you know, King Alexander the Great and his generals. The best way to imagine what was on stained cloths is to look at tapestries. So whatever was done in a tapestry was done in staining. They're essentially the same pictorially, the same range of things you'd find in a tapestry, which could just be some birds or some flowers or some vine leaves on a cushion, or it could be the glorious triumph of the current king against, you know, crushing his enemies on a massive wall thing. And exactly the same range of pictures of imagery. It was enormously fast. And these things were done on the floor. You lay them on the floor on a mat of rushes or straw. You pin the cloth in place using thorns and then you walk all over and you slop this stain on. You really pour it on and so the excess can run through to the straw underneath. So you're really working fast and you're putting on one coat of whack, whack, whack, whack, whack. Perhaps you're using stencils. A lot of stenciling would have gone on and you could knock one of these things off in a day or two. Whereas, as I say, with a tapestry, you're looking at months to make something the same size.
Jo Andrews
Mark knows from his study of documents and manuscripts that England and Flanders were centres of cloth staining, and that it was also happening in Spain and probably Italy. But one of the reasons our knowledge of this is so poor is that so little of it survives. This was everyday stuff. It wasn't elite or valuable. It was the medieval wallpaper of life. And it rotted, got damp, became unfashionable and was thrown out. George Kalman is a practical researcher who specialises in experimenting with old staining techniques.
George Kelman
I think the focus on historical art has been the panels, the high end stuff, the high society things that we see in museums. So cloth painting probably seems to be much more of a craft and less art based. And I think that's partly prejudice also, because not a lot of it survives at the domestic level. So its lack of physical Visibility might be something to do with that, I think. I think it's special for me because I'm really interested. It might not be special to most people who go, oh, it's just painting on cloth. There are a lot of things that come up from doing this rather than simply the act of painting on cloth.
Jo Andrews
George says that the recipes in the Gloucester book can produce rich and deep colours.
George Kelman
Oh, certainly, they are bright colours. I've worked on most of those. And the Brazil reds are bright red, the welds are bright yellow, the greens can be quite vivid, depending how you mix the colors, and the blacks can be quite dense. So, yes, there's a lot more brightness to the world than we would probably imagine. I think the key issue is that they're not the brightest colors that could be used. We're not talking about the mineral blues, the ultramarines and azurites, so they work differently. But in terms of the human need for decoration and color, it certainly is there with the recipes that we have. Yeah, they're very bright indeed. Even though they fade eventually, they are quite stunning in some cases.
Jo Andrews
George has made up a number of the staining recipes from the Gloucester manuscript. And a word of warning, we're talking about medieval colouring processes. You might want to finish your food first.
George Kelman
There is a really lovely. I say lovely guardedly, so it's to make a red scarlet water. So you take urine, essentially fresh urine, and you sieve it over the fire. And when it's hot, you put in your powder of Brazil wood and you sieve it until you've reduced it by half.
Jo Andrews
Does seizing mean boiling?
George Kelman
Yes, sieve. S E T H E. I think. Yes, sieve, they call it sodden sothen. So, yeah, boil it until it's reduced in half, then put in alum, stir it, take it from the fire, let it cool down, and then you put it in a glazed vessel for at least seven days, if not more, before you use it. So very clear about it before you use it, it can last a year. The cautionary tale is do not decant hot or warm urine red into a bottle when your children are running loose outside the workshop and they startle you and then you spill it everywhere. Everywhere.
Jo Andrews
But once you manage to do this successfully, it gives you a wonderful deep colour.
George Kelman
Now, apart from the cautionary tale, the really interesting thing, I think, about this particular recipe is that you. You get this really lovely deep red because you have the urine and the alum. So urine gives it a bit of alkalinity. So Brazil would usually When I cook up as a water is a very bright cherry red, a warm, warm red. When it. When the PH rises, it goes to the blue part of the spectrum, so it starts to be a much deeper, colder red. So you get that on top and it's lovely. It's a viable red. It's a great color, but what you get at the bottom is an extra. It isn't mentioned in the recipes. At the bottom, you have a precipitate, which is as a result of the alum reacting with the alkalinity of the urine. And then some of that colour that drops out is a solid colour. It's used as effectively as a pigment and that can be used to glaze over gold and it can be also used to boost up colours that you paint on. So you might have painted with some red lead or vermilion, and then you can use these lakes to add increased vibrancy.
Jo Andrews
Brazilwood came, confusingly, from India and Southeast asia from the mid-1300s onwards. It arrived in Europe in blocks and was then rasped into a powdered form and was used for dyeing. George has also found unexpected combinations of materials.
George Kelman
So to make a purple water, take red water. That would be the Brazil red and a little black water. And the black water is made with essentially oak or link. It's the residues of oak gall ink cooked up with a bit of aluminum and turned into a black water. Now, we rightly would assume that you make purple by mixing red and blue together, and that's a standard thing, we know that. But when you mix the black, this ink black, it gives a purple, not a vibrant violet purple, but it's on the purple spectrum of things. And that's unexpected. I just thought it was one of these. Oh, no, they just got that wrong. But actually it is. It's. It's a respectable, cheap purple. That is interesting because it's not what I expected the color to be. To be. I didn't believe it. Basically. I just saw this. I thought, no, that's not how you make purple. Evidently it is.
Mark Clark
It's a.
George Kelman
It's another viable color. I quite like the gilding, laying gold on cloth, because when you lay gold and silver onto cloth, it contrasts very greatly with the colors that you lay down. So it's quite nice to see those aesthetics at play and to imagine that somebody's house in the 15th century that could afford it has a nice glittering cloth that emulates woven cloth, but shines and glitters, which it does. I think they're all really interesting. But, yeah, the urine the purple and the gold would be my favorite.
Jo Andrews
What George has done isn't easy, and it's taken years of trial and error. One reason is that the Gloucester manuscript and other books of recipes like it are full of mistakes. Often they leave out vital steps, sometimes the steps that would have seemed simply obvious to the people of the day. And then there are the puzzling instructions to the modern earth. Here, Mark Clark reads from a recipe written in Middle English at the beginning of the section, where it explains how to prepare cloth for staining.
Mark Clark
Here beginneth the making of waters for stainers. To make staining water, one thou shalt dict thy cloth, tack a panner with cleaner water, and if thou hast 8 yerds of linen cloth, take a pint of alum and put it with the cloth in the water, cover it and set it over the fire, and when it hath sowed in the space of a mile away and more, tack the cloth and put it in cold water, that the superfluity of the alum fall away and then wring it and lay it to dry. A mile away means how long it takes you to walk a mile. See? So you know, 15 minutes thereabouts.
Jo Andrews
Indeed. How do you calculate time in an easy way, with no watches or clocks? Another instruction sometimes given in old recipes was to do something like boiling it or stirring it for the time it took to say the Lord's Prayer. There are a small number of stained cloths that do survive in European museums. Mostly they are grand pieces, but one chance survivor is much more humble. Here's George.
George Kelman
We know that there's a thing called the Hesse Burse, which is a small painted cloth bag to hold the consecrated host, and it comes from a church in Suffolk, Essex, but it's now at the British Museum in store. And it's beautifully painted. It has gold leaf, silver leaf. It's executed with great skill that only survives by luck because it's a local parish church.
Jo Andrews
The Hesset birth dates from the late 1200s or early 1300s and is a small envelope like piece of cloth painted with the face of Jesus on one side and on the reverse the Lamb of God. It was found at the bottom of a parish chest in the Victorian era. George has made some of these beautiful stained cloths for Haptic and Hugh, and we'll be giving them away to friends of Haptic and Hue later this month. Mostly these stains were painted or stamped onto woven linen and wool cloths, as these were the cheapest and most easily turned out. And this episode is about the Stainers. But I do wonder about all the growers, spinners and weavers of linen and wool who were producing huge quantities of fabric to feed this industry. Today, the Gloucester manuscript lives above the cathedral's Songs School in a hidden space that was built in the 1400s as the library. You climb the creaking stairs and open the heavy door on a room that is every bit as beautiful as you might imagine. With leaded glass windows, ancient roof beams and thousands of books and manuscripts lining the old stone walls. The manuscript is not just a book of staining recipes. It contains all manner of other charms, snippets of information and practical knowledge that you might need in the late 1300s. It begins with a history of what was then St. Peter's Abbey, which is why Rebecca Phillips, the cathedral archivist, believes the book was made at Gloucester.
Rebecca Phillips
Say we know it must have been made for us, there's no one else who bothers writing the history of Gloucester Abbey apart from Gloucester Abbey. But certainly by the dissolution it isn't here anymore. We don't know quite whose hands it goes into. No one keeps us a record of who takes anything away from here when Henry closes the abbey.
Jo Andrews
The dissolution of the monasteries, that great upheaval in English life. Henry VIII's famous break with the Roman Catholic Church over its refusal to allow him to divorce his first wife and marry his second came after 1534 as England transferred over to its new Anglican faith. Henry and his men sacked and confiscated the wealth and possessions of nearly every monastery and religious house in the country. For hundreds of years the little book disappeared and seemed lost forever. But then something incredible happened.
Rebecca Phillips
But by the 1870s it is rediscovered. It's rediscovered in a Berlin booksellers and as soon as the cathedral finds out about it, we send someone out there with a big pile of marks to go and buy it, to bring it back home. So it's been back here in the cathedral for about 150 years now and it's treasured as one of our very few artifacts from before the dissolution. Because almost everything else pre dissolution we lose because of course everything was, was part of a Catholic abbey and it's then made into a Protestant cathedral, an Anglican cathedral and therefore all of that, that Catholic objects, objet d'artagnan. All of the knowledge that would have been collected here in this library, all of that passes away and we don't quite know what happens to most of it. We can only trace the little bits that we find popping up now elsewhere. But we know nothing of maybe the Textile culture, apart from the knowledge captured in this book.
Jo Andrews
The book is written in a mix of Latin, Middle English, the kind of English Geoffrey Chaucer wrote in, and there's even a section in Old Welsh.
Rebecca Phillips
And I suppose it's one of the reasons I find it so lovely is because it's so full of practical knowledge. It actually shows, say in this section, we've got here all these practical knowledges. We've got their knowledge of plants, we've got their knowledge of medicine, we've got random little bits of knowledge that we're only just starting to kind of scratch at the surface of, because we're just working our way through and trying to translate from Latin many of the. The recipes and the. The collected knowledge in here and finding that we've got. The one we found so far is a recipe for gingerbread, but we haven't yet translated it to check that it's safe for human consumption. So we can't share it without kind of a very strong kind of health and safety label saying, don't try this at home yet. And we've also got recipes in there for things like how to write on a knife blade, which just completely kind of surprised us when we discovered those tucked away in there.
Jo Andrews
The book towards the end also contains a good deal of medical information. And at that time it was part of the duty of the monks to tend to the sick. Rebecca thinks that this book may have been made to travel with.
Rebecca Phillips
It feels like this is a book that the monks made so that they could carry with them, them everything that they needed to kind of be that connection back to. To Gloucester Abbey whenever they were going out, maybe to a daughter cell, maybe even to other sick individuals or something like that. So this is a period when leper hospitals are not unknown. So actually, is it something they could carry with them when they're going to their leper cells outside? It's got that mixture of kind of. This is why it's important that you're part of us. But also, here's all the knowledge that you might find useful to you whilst you're traveling. It sounds blase to say it's pocket sized, but the pages are kind of not that much larger than maybe a modern Kindle screen or a modern paperback, really, aren't they? The actual kind of page size, it's thick, It's a good 3 or 4 inches thick, but it would fit in a parcel easily within the pockets I'm wearing today. I could probably get it into the only other versions of that historia that we know of don't have all this practical knowledge. And they are much bigger books with much more decoration. And they are all about saying we're important and this story is important. And they're probably made to put on altars or on lecterns and show off. This is about being taken with you, about traveling with you, about carrying that information of kind of connection and of use as they go.
Jo Andrews
The book also still has puzzles and mysteries to give up.
Rebecca Phillips
So I first met this book on probably my second or third day here at the library seven years ago and was flicking through and was looking at the limited catalogue we had for it at the time. And in amongst that catalogue it said about this charm, this curse. So I turned to that and it's the page before it that gripped me because as I was trying to find it suddenly stood out from the text was the line that said for to help a woman that is with child. And it just jumped out at me because this is a group of monastic males in an enclosed order. What are they doing getting involved in childbirth? And I'm still not 100% certain of that answer. Is it the very start of medicalization of childbirth? Is it that they are only ever called in when the midwives can't help? And that's why it's got a charm in there, Is it? Much, much more. But in amongst the charm for that one, it includes four lines out of five of one of those palindrome squares which are. We know of a. A carved version of this from Roman times down at Cirencester that's in the Corinian Museum today. But it's the square that starts Sartor, Arepuo, Tenet, Opera rotas. And they've written all four of those five lines out and the only one they've missed out is opera. So who knows why. And I don't think as yet academics have agreed entirely on what the meaning of that scale square is. When they find it, they just recognize that it was even from Roman times, it was being recognized as a grid of power, as somehow kind of special, that it can be read in every direction and it works in every direction and that somehow it calls power into play. And the fact that it's been included alongside a load of saints names and then it's being used to help women in a male monastic culture is just. It's got so many layers of mystery there. For me, I never get bored of that mystery.
Jo Andrews
There are a number of inquire within books or miscellanies like the Gloucester manuscript in other Ancient book collections. So why did they suddenly begin to appear at this time in the languages that the ordinary people actually spoke and understood, rather than the Latin of previous times? One reason was that Europe had just been through one of the greatest cataclysms in its history, the first wave of the Black Death, which killed up to half the population. Between 25 and 40, 50 million people were dead. Here's Mark Clark again.
Mark Clark
This is my idea is that a lot of these medieval recipe books, from the middle of the 14th century onwards, they start being written in the vernacular. So instead of writing them in Latin, people start writing them in their own language. And this is happening in Italy, it's happening in Germany, and it's happening in England. And I think that this is a reaction to the Black Death. I think that what's happened is if you're going to be a specialist craftsman, you need a critical mass of consumers to support that. And I think what happens is in a stressed community such as after the Black Death, what you have is a more of a DIY mentality. So you'll have farmers who are also silversmiths, you'll have farmers who are also blacksmiths, you'll have monks who are no longer buying stuff in. They're making it themselves. There are households who are going, you know, the ink seller hasn't been around for a while. Let's just make ink, or we need to make these clothes last even longer than we used to. There are recipes were what they call refreshing cloth, you know, which is essentially dying it again. Essentially, you've washed it and washed it and washed it, and it's looking a bit drab. You're not going to get new stuff. You can't buy the materials. Nobody's making it anyway, locally. I will freshen it up by giving it a home, dyeing much, as much as you can now. And I think that there is this couple of things happening at once in the wake of the Black Death. One is this DIY mentality that springs up a bit. Secondly, there's this sort of panic among the literate about, let's just preserve this information for when civilization collapses.
Jo Andrews
There was an end of time sense that they had to get everything down in case the information was lost. And at the same time, we see the beginnings of a new age coming, says Mark. The surviving elite began to take an interest in craftsmanship, and journeymen are traveling from place to place at the end of their apprenticeships, looking to extend their craft skills.
Mark Clark
You know, you go walking around and you try and find odd jobs for other masters in different towns. And they go, oh, you do it like that. And so they write that down. So stuff they haven't personally learned that they haven't internalized yet, they will write down notes of that. So that's another source of recipes getting written down. Now you also get, again, in the 14th, 15th century, you get a top down interest in craft from the elite. It was interesting. So you get things like the king's chef will write down recipes of the best banquet and the best recipes. And this is happening in France and in England at the same time, and their best practice and that. And these get copied for maybe 100 years so you can get a fresh copy of it that reflects a banquet that took place 100 years ago. It's amazing stuff. But there's this sort of concern to preserve and memorialize best practice.
Jo Andrews
And this is what Mark thinks was happening with the Gloucester manuscript. It seems to have been written by one hand, copying out recipes and useful information from a whole host of sources to preserve it and to use it when necessary. Inevitably, because the unknown monk was making a copy of a copy, mistakes have crept in, especially because he was a monk and not a skilled craftsperson in the trades and techniques he was transcribing. But we're still left with the sound of a monk hurrying to get down all the knowledge he could find. And most of all with a lost world of colour created by the craftsmen called stainers, who have vanished completely, leaving barely a ghost of the richly tinted and hued world they created. All we have now are the written records like the little Gloucester manuscript, and the respect and understanding of people like George Kelman who have worked to recreate these recipes.
George Kelman
Well, anyone who explores traditional methods of things tends to find out that there's a lot more preparation and creation of materials than there is today. So a painter would typically know how to grind their pigments and source them to where to buy them from and then prepare them, check them for quality and then turn them into paint. So, yeah, I have respect for anyone who has to make and prepare their own ingredients for things. And that goes to my dyer friends and painter friends, carpenters and people who have to have to go. They can't just buy what they need. And that goes to modern craftspeople too. So if I watch videos of block printers in India and Jaipur or something, I watch them with great fascination because they are the front end of those end products is the making of the wood blocks, the cutting of, the mixing of the dyed stuffs that someone has been at the physically at the end of those processes, it's not simply come from a shop or a factory. And that still happens today. And suppose any of those things that you have a primary interaction with your materials I think is well worthy of respect. So I have a greater appreciation of that certainly.
Jo Andrews
Thank you to Mark Clark, George Kelman and Rebecca Phillips, who takes care of the Gloucester manuscript in the wonderful library at the Cathedral. Without their knowledge and sought for research and scholarship, this episode would not have been possible. Thank you too to Joanna Teague, who took me to see the Gloucester book. She too has been successful in making up a number of the staining recipes Haptic and Hu is hosted by me, Jo Andrews and edited and produced by Bill Taylor. It's an independent production supported entirely by its listeners who bring us ideas and generously fund us via Buy Me a Coffee or by becoming a friend of Haptic and Hu. This keeps the podcast independent and free from advertising and sponsorship. It also brings you extra content every month with a separate podcast called Travels With Tech Textiles, hosted by Bill Taylor and me, where we cover a whole range of different textile news and topics. You can find out more about this episode and see pictures of the stained cloths we've Talked about at www.hapticandhue.com listen-series-3-6 we'll be back with a new episode next month. Join us next time on the first Thursday of the month, and until then, thank you for listening and enjoy whatever making you are doing.
Podcast Summary: Haptic & Hue – The Forgotten Medieval Craft of Cloth Staining
Introduction
In the April 4, 2024 episode of Haptic & Hue, host Jo Andrews delves into the forgotten medieval craft of cloth staining, uncovering its significance, techniques, and the lives it colored. This episode, enriched by insights from experts Rebecca Phillips, Mark Clark, and George Kelman, paints a vivid picture of a vibrant yet overlooked aspect of medieval textile artistry.
1. Gloucester Cathedral and the Mysterious Manuscript
The episode opens with a rich historical backdrop of Gloucester Cathedral, a structure over 900 years old located near the River Severn in England. Jo Andrews sets the scene by highlighting the cathedral's enduring presence through centuries of celebration and tragedy.
Jo Andrews [00:21]: "Gloucester Cathedral is more than 900 years old. It stands not far from the River Severn in the west of England..."
Central to the discussion is a small book transcribed by monks in the late 1300s, containing hundreds of recipes, charms, and spells that offer a rare glimpse into medieval life.
Jo Andrews [02:14]: "The book gives us a manual of how they lived and it allows us, that rare thing, to get a little closer to who our ancestors really were..."
2. The Guardian of the Past: Rebecca Phillips
Rebecca Phillips, Gloucester Cathedral’s archivist, emphasizes the manuscript's unparalleled importance in understanding medieval life, lamenting the loss of other historical records.
Rebecca Phillips [02:56]: "For us, it's the book that I would cry if we ever lost. I cry about others, but this is the one that would make me sad to my soul if we ever lost it."
She explains the challenges in dating the manuscript, noting that while exact dates are missing, the content suggests it was not updated post-1390s.
3. Unveiling the Forgotten Craft of Cloth Staining
Jo Andrews introduces the primary focus: 30 recipes for stains found in the manuscript. Contrary to dyes, these stains were used to paint and stamp textiles, adding color and design swiftly compared to other methods like tapestry or embroidery.
Jo Andrews [04:00]: "Stains were water based or sometimes oil based colours used to paint and stamp textiles."
4. Staining vs. Dyeing with Mark Clark
Mark Clark, an associate professor of technical art history, clarifies the distinct differences between staining and dyeing.
Mark Clark [05:17]: "Cloth staining is different from dyeing. Dyeing is where you use a solid colour and you get the whole cloth... Staining meant making figurative designs on cloth..."
He elaborates on the historical significance of staining, noting its widespread use in both elite and domestic settings due to its speed and versatility.
Mark Clark [06:52]: "They were everywhere—from royal palaces to servant quarters, churches, and everyday homes."
5. The Ubiquity and Versatility of Stained Cloths
Stained cloths were integral to medieval ceremonies, decorations, and daily life, serving as banners, curtains, bed hangings, and more. Their ability to be produced quickly made them indispensable for ephemeral events like tournaments and royal visits.
Mark Clark [09:12]: "People would have had them for curtains to hang over the door... to make the place cozier."
Jo Andrews reflects on how this revelation challenges the perception of the medieval period as visually dull.
Jo Andrews [09:46]: "This knowledge upends my view of this time as visually dull..."
6. Recreating Medieval Stains: George Kelman's Expertise
George Kelman, a practical researcher, discusses his efforts in experimenting with historic staining techniques based on the manuscript's recipes. He highlights the rich and bright colors achievable through these methods.
George Kelman [13:30]: "They are bright colours... the Brazil reds are bright red, the welds are bright yellow..."
However, he warns of the challenges and dangers inherent in replicating these medieval processes.
George Kelman [14:23]: "You might want to finish your food first... make a red scarlet water... involves boiling urine."
Kelman shares fascinating results, such as creating purple water from unexpected combinations, demonstrating the ingenuity of medieval stainers.
7. The Gloucester Manuscript: A Treasure Trove of Knowledge
Mark Clark reads an excerpt from the manuscript, illustrating the practical instructions medieval monks followed to prepare cloth for staining.
Mark Clark [18:42]: "To make staining water, one thou shalt... set it over the fire... take it in cold water..."
Rebecca Phillips discusses the manuscript's multilingual composition and its probable use as a portable manual for monks tending to the sick or traveling.
Rebecca Phillips [25:55]: "This is a book that the monks made so that they could carry with them, them everything that they needed..."
8. Historical Context: The Black Death and the Rise of Vernacular Recipes
The episode places the manuscript within the broader historical context of the Black Death, which decimated Europe's population and led to a DIY mentality in crafts and daily life. Mark Clark posits that this period saw a shift towards recording knowledge in the vernacular languages as a response to societal stress.
Mark Clark [30:25]: "A lot of these medieval recipe books... start being written in the vernacular... this is a reaction to the Black Death."
This shift was driven by the need to preserve and democratize knowledge, ensuring that essential crafts could continue despite the societal upheaval.
9. Preserving a Lost World of Color
Jo Andrews concludes by reflecting on the fragile legacy of medieval stainers and the critical role of modern scholars in reviving lost techniques. The Gloucester manuscript stands as a testament to a once-thriving craft, now resurrected through dedicated research and experimentation.
Mark Clark [33:26]: "We're still left with the sound of a monk hurrying to get down all the knowledge he could find."
George Kelman underscores the complexity and dedication required to reclaim these ancient methods, fostering a deeper appreciation for traditional craftsmanship.
George Kelman [34:43]: "I have respect for anyone who has to make and prepare their own ingredients for things..."
Conclusion
This episode of Haptic & Hue masterfully uncovers the intricate and vibrant world of medieval cloth staining, shedding light on a lost art that once brought color and life to countless aspects of daily and ceremonial life. Through the preservation efforts of archivists, historians, and researchers, the rich hues of the past are being rediscovered, offering a more colorful perspective of medieval humanity.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps
Additional Resources
For more details and visuals of the stained cloths discussed, visit Haptic & Hue’s website.