Podcast Summary: "The Garment That Sweeps Through History: The Everlasting Cloak"

Haptic & Hue's episode titled "The Garment That Sweeps Through History: The Everlasting Cloak", hosted by Jo Andrews, delves into the rich history, functionality, and enduring appeal of cloaks, particularly focusing on the Roman Birus Britannicus and its legacy. This comprehensive exploration features insights from textile experts including Sue Day, Amica Sundstrom, Maria Stella Busana, and members of the Zara family, who are dedicated to preserving and reviving traditional cloak-making.

1. Introduction: Hadrian's Wall and the Birus Britannicus

The episode opens with Jo Andrews setting the scene on Hadrian's Wall in northern England, built in the 2nd century AD to defend the Roman Empire's northwest frontier.

Jo Andrews [00:23]: "It's February and we're on Hadrian's Wall in the north of England... a soldier in the Roman army... you can see that the local tribes are wearing something very practical that keeps them warm and dry, and it is called the Birus Britannicus."

2. The Birus Britannicus: Features and Historical Significance

Sue Day, a textile recreator at the Chedworth Roman villa, elaborates on the Birus Britannicus, an all-in-one cloak that is both warm and waterproof.

Sue Day [01:19]: "The Biris is an all in one cloak from ankles to head... woven on one loom in one piece and then just sewn up the front."

Sue highlights its practicality and social significance, noting its widespread use among plebeians, officials, and soldiers.

Sue Day [03:27]: "It is very restricting, but it's a waterproof coat or cloak... if the Roman army was on march, they would send out scouts and... commandeer all of the woven material... including all the cloaks."

Jo emphasizes the cloak's unique properties:

Jo Andrews [04:32]: "The important thing about the Birus Britannicus was that it was warm, but magically it was also waterproof."

3. The Jerum Cloak: A 2,300-Year-Old Find

The discussion transitions to the Jerum cloak, a remarkably preserved Roman garment found in a Swedish bog.

Amica Sundstrom [08:10]: "This cloak is remarkable... it's Sweden's oldest complete garment... preserved in a bog."

Amica describes its construction and design, noting its elegant pattern and the technical prowess involved in its creation.

Amica Sundstrom [09:17]: "It's the earliest surviving representation of a houndstooth twill... originally a striking brown and white... still used by designers today."

4. Fashion and Function: Cloaks Through the Ages

Amica connects the Jerum cloak's design to modern fashion, citing its influence on designers like Christian Dior and Coco Chanel.

Amica Sundstrom [10:25]: "This pattern has come down to us and is still used by designers... it's a striking fabric."

She also discusses the cloak's dual purpose of providing warmth and serving as a status symbol.

Amica Sundstrom [11:11]: "It keeps you warm, but it's also fantastic for showing off."

5. Cloaks in Roman Society: Types and Social Significance

Classical archaeology professor Maria Stella Busana provides an overview of various Roman cloaks, such as the Sagum, Elena, Lacerna, and Penula, each with distinct shapes and social connotations.

Maria Stella Busana [16:54]: "There were many types of cloaks used both in the civic and military fields... each cloak told its own story."

She explains the Palla, the typical feminine cloak, symbolizing modesty and respectable married status.

Maria Stella Busana [17:20]: "The palla was worn... as a symbol of modesty when necessary."

6. Legacy of the Roman Cloak: Saint Martin and Beyond

The episode recounts the story of a Roman soldier whose act of charity with his cloak led to his conversion to Christianity, resulting in the establishment of Saint Martin of Tours.

Jo Andrews [19:57]: "A Roman soldier wearing his cloak is still commemorated today all over Europe... his cloak became a royal banner."

This narrative illustrates the cloak's profound cultural and historical impact, extending into religious and royal traditions across Europe.

7. Modern Revival: The Zara Family and the Tabarro

Vittorio Zara introduces listeners to the Zara family, Italian manufacturers dedicated to reviving the traditional Tabarro, an Italian military cloak.

Vittorio Zara [22:53]: "The Tabarro was worn by every type of citizen... from nobles to the poor ones... and these are the reasons why he decided to try to give life back to a garment like this."

Sandro Zara, Vittorio's grandfather, shares his passion for cloak-making and his efforts to revive this timeless garment.

Vittorio Zara [25:58]: "It was the period when Italy was in the First World War... cleaning the Tabarro in the snow."

Sandro emphasizes the cloak's versatility and enduring functionality, particularly in harsh climates.

Vittorio Zara [27:17]: "The narrow parts where the cold and wind could not penetrate... it was like an armor defending you from the wind and cold."

8. The Symbolism and Personal Connection of Cloaks

Katja Simeon, a seasoned cloak maker, discusses the personal and almost mystical relationship wearers have with their Tabarrus.

Katja Simeon [34:29]: "She feels like they are hers and she feels a lot of passion about them."

She believes that the cloak chooses the wearer, fostering a unique bond between garment and individual.

Vittorio Zara [34:55]: "Every single person must feel like the Tabarro is theirs... the Tabarro chooses the person, not the person that chooses the Tabarro."

9. Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of the Cloak

Jo Andrews wraps up the episode by reflecting on the cloak's ubiquitous presence in history and modern culture, from fairy tales like Little Red Riding Hood to contemporary fashion and symbolism.

Jo Andrews [33:00]: "The cloak... easily conveyed drama and movement through the air... It also signals evil, as in Dracula, and care, as in the uniform of nurses."

The episode concludes by celebrating the cloak's timeless elegance and practicality, honoring the Zara family's commitment to keeping this ancient garment alive.

Vittorio Zara [35:29]: "You gotta find the Tabarro that suits you in the best way... it's the Tabarro that chooses the person."

Key Takeaways:

• Historical Significance: The cloak, particularly the Birus Britannicus, was a versatile and essential garment in Roman times, serving both practical and social functions.
• Preservation and Legacy: The Jerum cloak exemplifies how environmental conditions like bogs can preserve textiles, providing invaluable insights into ancient craftsmanship.
• Cultural Impact: Cloaks have transcended cultures and eras, influencing fashion, symbolism, and even contributing to significant historical narratives like that of Saint Martin of Tours.
• Modern Revival: The Zara family's efforts highlight a resurgence of interest in traditional cloak-making, emphasizing personal connection and timeless elegance.

Notable Quotes:

• Sue Day [01:19]: "The Biris is an all in one cloak from ankles to head... and the hood is also attached."
• Amica Sundstrom [09:17]: "It's the earliest surviving representation of a houndstooth twill... still used by designers today."
• Maria Stella Busana [16:54]: "Each cloak told its own story, and you could only wear the one appropriate for your place in society."
• Vittorio Zara [35:29]: "It's the Tabarro that chooses the person, not the person that chooses the Tabarro."

This episode of Haptic & Hue offers a captivating exploration of cloaks' multifaceted roles throughout history, blending archaeological insights with modern craftsmanship to illustrate the garment's enduring legacy.