Haptic & Hue: Ukraine's Revolutionary Act of Embroidery: How Identity Survives in Stitches

Release Date: January 4, 2024

Introduction

In the latest episode of Haptic & Hue's Tales of Textiles, host Jo Andrews delves into the profound significance of Ukrainian embroidery as a steadfast marker of national identity. Titled "Ukraine's Revolutionary Act of Embroidery: How Identity Survives in Stitches," the episode intertwines historical narratives, personal recollections, and contemporary challenges to present a comprehensive exploration of how textiles sustain cultural identity amidst adversity.

Historical Roots of Ukrainian Embroidery

Jo Andrews begins by setting the stage with the story of Lubov Volynets, a Ukrainian woman whose life mirrors the turbulent history of her homeland. Nearly 80 years ago, Lubov fled Ukraine with her family, enduring Russian occupation and Nazi invasions, eventually settling in a displaced persons camp in Germany.

Lubov Volynets shares, "They all decided, well, you know, we survived. Let's go and have our photographs taken... they wanted to take the photographs to show that they survived. But how did they survive as Ukrainians, not just any regular person" (00:50).

This act of wearing traditional embroidered garments for photographs was more than a display of survival; it was a declaration of Ukrainian identity amidst oppression.

Embroidery as a Symbol of Resistance and Identity

Lubov emphasizes the deep-rooted significance of embroidery in Ukrainian culture. She recounts a pivotal moment in her childhood when her mother, distressed by the absence of an embroidered shirt, quickly created one to preserve their cultural identity within the displaced persons camp.

“For her it was like a panic, like as if I wasn't a complete person because I didn't have the shirt.” (03:21)

Lubov, now in her 80s, has dedicated over four decades to researching and teaching Ukrainian folk art and embroidery. Her work as the curator of the Ukrainian Museum and Library in Stamford, Connecticut, highlights the role of embroidery not just as art but as a living emblem of Ukrainian heritage.

The Artistry and Techniques of Ukrainian Embroidery

The episode delves into the intricate artistry of Ukrainian embroidery, characterized by its vibrant colors, varied stitches, and symbolic motifs. Ukrainians employ over a hundred different stitches, combining drawn threadwork and cutwork, with origins dating back thousands of years.

Lubov Volynets explains, “They do the outline, but in each petal or in each branch, you fill it with different type of stitches... it looks almost colorful, rich.” (08:30)

These techniques were historically accessible to the rural poor, making embroidery a democratized art form that became a potent symbol of national identity.

Embroidery Through the Ages: From Pagan Rituals to Christian Traditions

Jo Andrews and Lubov explore how embroidery traditions evolved from pagan rituals to Christian practices. The ritual cloths, often featuring the tree of life or goddess protectress designs, were believed to protect households from evil. These cloths were both functional and symbolic, hanging on tree branches to sanctify spaces for religious services.

“It was a really important protective cloth for Ukrainians...” (10:17)

With the advent of Christianity, these traditions persisted, transforming into embroidered vestments for churches. The collaboration between nuns and talented serf girls in monasteries ensured the continuation and refinement of intricate embroidery techniques.

Serfdom and the Flourishing of Folk Art

The abolition of serfdom in 1861 marked a significant shift in Ukrainian society. Before its abolition, serf girls were often coerced into contributing to religious embroidery under oppressive conditions. Post-abolition, there was a burgeoning recognition of the creative potential within the peasant class.

Lubov Volynets remarks, “This was like mid 19th century, this whole wave of interest into the folk creativity began and admiration rose.” (14:36)

This era saw academic artists drawing inspiration from folk art, highlighting the innate beauty and creativity of Ukrainian embroidery.

Embroidery as Cultural Resilience Amidst Conflict

The episode addresses the ongoing threats to Ukrainian embroidery, especially in the context of recent conflicts. Ukraine has accused Russia of looting over 30 museums, targeting cultural artifacts including valuable textile collections.

Jo Andrews states, “The Ukrainians call this cultural annihilation, an attempt to destroy a sense of who they are.” (19:23)

Despite these threats, embroidery remains a resilient form of cultural expression. Lubov reflects on how embroidery was an integral part of Ukrainian upbringing, a skill taught from a young age to instill a sense of identity and community.

“You always had to show your ability, that you will make a good housekeeper...” (20:34)

Migration and the Preservation of Ukrainian Embroidery

Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, millions of Ukrainians emigrated globally, taking their embroidery traditions with them. This diaspora has played a crucial role in preserving and spreading Ukrainian cultural identity.

In Alberta, Canada, a significant Ukrainian community has maintained their embroidery heritage. Lucy Heinz, acting curator at the Royal Alberta Museum, discusses the collection amassed by Peter Orchinsky, whose family migrated from Ukraine in the early 20th century.

“Most of those Ukrainian artists who were appropriated by Russia... say it was the Ukrainian atmosphere that influenced their thinking.” (16:11)

Peter Orchinsky’s collection, comprising over three thousand items, serves as a testament to the enduring legacy of Ukrainian textiles, preserved meticulously by emigrant communities.

Contemporary Relevance and Revival

The war in Ukraine has intensified efforts to preserve and access Ukrainian textile collections. The influx of new Ukrainian immigrants to places like Alberta has rekindled interest in cultural preservation. Dr. Taras Lopoul, an associate professor and project leader, highlights how embroidery remains a vital connection to home for displaced Ukrainians.

“What did you bring with you to Canada that reminds you of the home you left in Ukraine?... embroidered T shirts for me, for kids...” (38:20)

These textiles not only serve as cultural artifacts but also as personal symbols of resilience and identity in the diaspora.

Conclusion: The Enduring Power of Stitches

Jo Andrews concludes by underscoring the irreplaceable role of embroidery in sustaining Ukrainian identity. Despite historical and ongoing attempts at cultural suppression, Ukrainian embroidery endures as a powerful symbol of resistance and self-definition.

“They continue to carry the pieces and the knowledge of how to create them to every corner of the world... stitches, just like the music of the Ukrainian national anthem that can never be undone.” (39:02)

The episode beautifully encapsulates how embroidery is more than art—it is a living, breathing emblem of heritage, resilience, and the unyielding spirit of the Ukrainian people.

Notable Quotes

• Lubov Volynets: "They wanted to take the photographs to show that they survived as Ukrainians, not just any regular person." (00:50)

• Lubov Volynets: "She had to embroider her. She found a piece of cloth... and she made this shirt for me." (03:21)

• Lubov Volynets: "This is how you make a statement, I am Ukrainian." (05:38)

• Lubov Volynets: "They had to beautify things around themselves... they did it by decorating the home, the clothing, especially the clothing." (16:11)

• Lubov Volynets: "It was a deeply feeling of existence and it's a sense to be involved in eternity." (38:20)

Credits

• Host: Jo Andrews
• Contributors: Lubov Volynets, Lucy Heinz, Dr. Taras Lopoul
• Production and Editing: Bill Taylor
• Additional Content: Travels with Textiles podcast

For more insights and visuals of the discussed embroidery, visit www.hapticandhue.com.

This summary captures the essence of the episode, highlighting the historical significance, personal narratives, and contemporary relevance of Ukrainian embroidery as a symbol of enduring identity.