Podcast
Paperback Perfumes
Hosted by Clare Presser · EN
Welcome to Paperback Perfumes! The host Clare Presser is a Librarian with a fascination for fragrances and their capacity to evokes memories and experiences through the activation of the olfactory system. In this podcast she chats with guests about their connections with scents and stories through the pairing of perfumes and literary texts. Think of it as reader’s advisory for fragrance lovers, or fragrance recommendation for bibilophiles - whichever experience is your first priority. It’s fun exercise that allows a lovely discussion around people’s personal interpretation of experience, scent, and story
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12episodes
Episodes
Newest firstAll episodes
Makeup and Murder
Yesterday01:03:09Tap to summarize“At a small table, sitting very upright, was one of the ugliest old ladies he had ever seen. It was an ugliness of distinction—it fascinated rather than repelled.”― Agatha Christie, Murder on the Orient ExpressMost perfumers focus on crafting fragrance but David Clarke, the creative mind behind Rivendare, transforms the entire process into a story. From an unexpected starting point with no initial interest in perfume, he has built a distinctive voice in artisanal perfumery from a remote corner of Australia, earning recognition from the Institute for Art and Olfaction.Please note: this conversation was recorded prior to David receiving the Golden Pear Award in the Artisan category from the Institute for Art and Olfaction in June of 2026. In this episode, David shares how a failed online business became the unlikely gateway into perfume-making, and how that pivot shaped his philosophy around creativity, independence, and experimentation. We explore the role of scarcity and mystique in niche fragrance, and how stepping away from commercial expectations can open space for truly original work.David offers an inside look at the realities of small-batch perfumery, working with rare materials, navigating the challenges of sourcing from regional Australia, and pushing beyond conventional industry standards in pursuit of artistic freedom. His approach challenges traditional ideas of luxury, shifting the focus from status and scale to craftsmanship, creativity, and the ability of a fragrance to inspire and transport.Rivendare fragrances mentioned:1747TundraDeath by VanityBooks discussed:Murder on the Orient Express - Agatha ChristieFind Rivendare at:Instagram:@rivendareperfumeTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →The Sublime and the Absurd
2w ago01:17:09Tap to summarize“Was I starting to feel evil? Yes, now I was worrying I'd be turned to the dark side by too much crochet.”― Naomi Novik, A Deadly EducationIn this episode, I have an excellent conversation with Benjamin Esposito, the self‑taught perfumer behind New York’s House of Mammoth. I have always admired the way Benjamin talks about his work, grounding it in what he calls radical attention, the practice of noticing the strange, tender and absurd moments that shape a life. His path into perfumery started far from fragrance, but he is someone who loved making things from scratch. That curiosity eventually led him to scent as a way to tell stories and hold space for memory.We talk about how his fragrances draw from childhood moments, pop culture references and the sensory imprints of his cultural background. Benjamin shares why patience and slowness guide every part of his creative process and how artisanal work continues to matter in a world that moves faster every day.Fragrances mentioned:Everett - House of Mammoth & Michael Nordstrand You & I (Will Die) - House of Mammoth Voices - House of Mammoth DinoS’mores - House of Mammoth Snippid - House of Mammoth Bad Lily - TALE Parfum Vetiver - Guerlain Joy - Jean Patou Rauque - Roberto Greco/Christopher Sheldrake Books discussed:Calvin and Hobbs A Deadly Education - Naomi Novik Find House of Mammoth at: Instagram: @house.of.mammothWebsite: houseofmammoth.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Finding Language
4w ago00:50:57Tap to summarize“These empires, however, have no power of the language of scent. Scent in situ resides outside of oppressive systems. Despite a massive market valuation for scented products, the language of scent itself cannot be commodified, owned or managed”- Catherine Hayley Epstein, Cognitive Impacts of Scent’s Languagelessness: A Persuasive Palette to Infuse Imagination and Healing, Nose Magazine, Issue 2 : Primed Saskia Dodds‑Painter is the founder of KOLIDO, a hands‑on perfumery based in the Yarra Valley on Wurundjeri Country, and the creator of Nose Magazine, an independent print publication dedicated to cultivating olfactive curiosity. Working with a small team, Saskia approaches scent as both craft and storytelling, designing and producing every perfume in‑house — from early formulation to bottling and shipping. Nose Magazine extends this creative vision into print, exploring the cultural and emotional dimensions of smell and appearing in stockists across Australia, Europe, the UK, and the US.In this episode, we explore how Saskia brings together her passion for scent, language, and community through the launch of KOLIDO and Nose. The conversation highlights the creative processes behind innovative fragrances, the importance of language in shaping how we experience scent, and the community‑driven approach that defines niche perfumery. Saskia shares how curiosity, experimentation, and collaboration guide her work, offering listeners insight into the evolving world of independent fragrance.Kolido fragrances mentioned:70s TaxiBareback Placebo Nymphetta Writing discussed:Nose Magazine - Issue 1: Top notes Nose Magazine - Issue 2: Primed Find Nose Magazine and Kolido at: Instagram: @nose.mag@kolido__Website: nosenosenose.comkolido.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Subversion
May 1200:57:49Tap to summarize“Perfume is a language whose speech is worth learning and unpacking as one would a poem, book, or film. Scent is a path to getting closer to our senses, to instinct, and to our bodies and the earth at a time when those attachments are threatened.”Barbara Herman, Scent & Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative PerfumeBarbara Herman is a writer, vintage‑perfume historian, and the founder of ERIS Parfums, a fragrance house inspired by the bold, unconventional beauty of classic perfume styles. Her journey began with collecting and researching vintage fragrances, which led her to create the blog Yesterday’s Perfume and later write Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume, a book exploring the cultural and artistic history of scent . Her fascination with the expressive power of perfume eventually evolved into creative collaboration with perfumer Antoine Lie, resulting in ERIS Parfums — a brand known for its daring, boundary‑pushing compositions that pay tribute to the past while speaking to a modern audience.In this episode, we explore the nuanced world of fragrance through vintage perfumes, challenge expectations as well as personal politics, and act as a form of artistic subversion. Fragrances mentioned:Lauren - Ralph Lauren Grey Flannel - Geoffrey Been Polo - Ralph LaurenMadeline de Madeline - Madeline MonoNuit de Noel - CaronMy Sin (Mon Peche) - LavinBaghari - Robert Piguet Writing discussed:Scent & Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume - Barbara Herman Lolita - Vladamir NabokovAlice’s Adventure In Wonderland - Lewis Carroll Dune - Frank Herbert Rebecca - Daphne De Maurier Miss Benson’s Beetle - Rachel JoyceThe Giving Tree - Shel Silverman Find Barbara and ERIS parfums at: Instagram: @erisparfums@perfumaniacWebsite: barbaraherman.comerisparfums.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →On The Scent
Apr 2800:58:08Tap to summarize“There is a type of person who starts to GLOW FROM WITHIN when talking about perfumery…” - Pia Long, Excerpt from ‘Demo Accords’, featured in ‘On The Scent’ magazine, Issue 1 . Jo Fairley is a celebrated writer, journalist, and one of the most influential voices shaping how we understand and talk about fragrance. As co‑founder of On The Scent magazine (and it’s inclusion in a burgeoning media empire), she has spent decades translating the invisible world of scent into stories that explore memory, culture, and the emotional power of perfume. Her award‑winning writing has helped build a bridge between the perfume industry and everyday readers, making the language of fragrance more accessible, expressive, and deeply human.Alongside her work in scent journalism, Jo is also known for co‑founding Green & Black’s Organic Chocolate, a brand that reflects her instinct for storytelling, design, and thoughtful creation. Her entrepreneurial spirit and editorial eye come together in everything she builds, especially in her mission to cultivate community within the fragrance world.In this episode, Jo shares her journey through perfume writing, the evolution of scent culture, and the magic behind creating a groundbreaking magazine dedicated to fragrance. It’s a conversation about creativity, connection, and the way scent helps us understand ourselves and the world around us.Fragrances mentioned:Shocking - Elsa SchiaparelliNéroli Amara - Van Cleef & ArpelsEau des Sens - DiptyquePetitgrain - Perfumer H Writing discussed:On The Scent Magazine: Issue 1 (Digital Copy)Find Jo and On The Scent Media: Instagram: @jofairley@onthescentmediaWebsite: onthescentmedia.com Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Coffee and Conversation
Apr 1400:45:15Tap to summarize“If you could go back, who would you want to meet?”― Toshikazu Kawaguchi, Before the Coffee Gets ColdDelphine McPhilimey brings a quiet, intentional artistry to the world of natural perfumery, and this episode explores the depth behind her craft. A French‑born artisan perfumer, her path has taken her from traditional perfumery studies to hands‑on workshops in Bali, eventually leading her to establish Olfactora in West Leederville, Western Australia. Her work is shaped by a deep respect for natural materials, the discipline of classical technique, and the slow, thoughtful rituals that give fragrance its emotional resonance.Olfactora reflects this philosophy: a studio devoted to the beauty of considered creation, where people can learn, explore, and experience scent in its most authentic form. Delphine blends traditional craft with a contemporary, sustainable approach, creating perfumes that feel personal, expressive, and grounded in nature. Every experience in her studio honours refined craftsmanship and the quiet depth of raw materials.This episode also steps into the whimsical world of ‘Before the Coffee Gets Cold’ by Toshikazu Kawaguchi, a Japanese novel that explores time, acceptance, and connection - an unexpected but fitting companion to Delphine’s approach to scent. Through storytelling, philosophy, and the discipline of natural perfumery, she reveals how fragrance becomes a bridge between memory, emotion, and the moments that shape us.Fragrances mentioned:Coffee Break - Maison Margiela/Replica Awake - AkroEmber Shan - ByermiaBrown Flowers - D.S. & DurgaOpium - Yves Saint Laurent Book discussed:Before the Coffee Gets Cold - Toshikazu KawaguchiFind Delphine and Olfactora onInstagram: @olfactoraWebsite: olfactora.com.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →A Beautiful Grimoire
Apr 701:01:17Tap to summarize“You will always be fond of me. I represent to you all the sins you never had the courage to commit.”― Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian GrayGrimoire Perfumes founder Troy (Trung) Vu joins us to explore the rich intersection of fragrance, aesthetics, mythology, and artistic expression. A self‑taught perfumer, Troy’s creative path winds through years as a classically trained dancer, a makeup artist, and a decade spent in luxury retail and cosmetics. These experiences shape his approach to scent as an invisible art form built on instinct, memory, structure, and imagination.Troy shares how the golden era of perfumery—from the 1920s to the late ’90s—continues to influence his work, inspiring fragrances that are bold, character‑driven, and unburdened by trend. His world is steeped in folklore, ritual, the macabre, and global mythologies, all of which inform the tone and storytelling behind each Grimoire creation. We also dive into the role of aesthetics through exploring classic literature the The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde. Fragrances mentioned:Caleche - Hermes Gold Woman - AmouageAmbre Eccentrico - Armani PriveFlorabotanica - BalenciagaGarden Roses - Burberry Book discussed:The Picture of Dorian Gray - Oscar Wilde Find Troy and Grimoire Parfums onInstagram: @troyperfumes@grimoireparfumsWebsite: grimoireparfums.com.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Gourmet
Mar 3100:58:32Tap to summarize“Just like becoming an expert in wine–you learn by drinking it, the best you can afford–you learn about great food by finding the best there is, whether simply or luxurious. Then you savour it, analyse it, and discuss it with your companions, and you compare it with other experiences.”― Julia Child, Mastering the Art of French CookingFlowers, food, and fragrance have long been powerful forms of expression—anchoring memory, shaping culture, and awakening creativity through the senses. In this episode, we explore Mastering the Art of French Cooking through a multisensory lens, where aroma is just as essential as technique. This conversation invites us to consider cooking not only as craft, but as a richly layered sensory experience—one that engages smell, taste, touch, and imagination.Our guest is Jeffrey Paul Ames, also known as The Aromatic Gourmet—a chef and botanical perfumer whose work sits at the intersection of gastronomy and fragrance. Drawing inspiration from his Italian family’s aromatic kitchen, as well as his teaching at the Institute for Art and Olfaction, Jeffrey has developed The Aromatic Gourmet, a thoughtful class series that explores cross‑modal sensorial practices through hands‑on, in‑person sessions. Each class guides participants through an olfacto‑gustatory journey using aromatic flowers, edible flowers, hydrosols, botanical extracts, and traditional techniques such as maceration, all grounded in cultural and historical context.In this episode, Jeffrey shares how he creates what he calls “edible perfumes” through salts, syrups, spices, and thoughtful food preparation—revealing how fragrance can transform flavor and deepen our connection to what we eat. He offers creative insights into aroma, craft, and sensory awareness, along with simple, accessible ways to bring more intention, color, and joy into everyday meals. If you’ve ever wanted to cook like a perfumer, use scent to anchor memory, or rediscover mindfulness through food, this episode is truly a feast for the senses.Fragrances mentioned:Bois des Îles (Excluif) - ChanelL’Heure Bleu - GuerlainMitsouko - Guerlain Book discussed:Mastering the Art of French Cooking - Julia ChildFrance is a Feast: The Photographic Journey of Paul and Julia Child - Alex Prud’Homme & Katie Pratt Extra research: The History Chicks podcast on Julia ChildFind the Aromatic Gourmet on@thearomaticgourmetTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Enfleurage
Mar 2401:09:45Tap to summarize“For Man is held by everything he holds. Release your grip on things if you would not be in their grip.”― Mikhail Naimy, The Book of Mirdad: The Strange Story of a Monastery which was Once Called The ArkThis conversation with George Chlouk moves through fragrance, philosophy, and the emotional terrain of being human in challenging times. We begin with the cultural depth of Lebanese perfumery—its reliance on local flora, the influences of tourism and tradition, and ancient techniques like enfleurage that still echo through contemporary scent‑making.From there, the discussion expands into the transformational ideas found in The Book of Mirdad: The Strange Story of a Monastery Which Was Once Called The Ark. Its reflections on letting go, navigating change, and embracing uncertainty become touchpoints as George and our host consider how individuals evolve—much like raw materials becoming something entirely new through alchemy.The conversation doesn’t shy away from the complexities of the world around us and the dissonance of trying to maintain “normalcy” in the presence of violence. Literature, spirituality, and fragrance all emerge as grounding forces—ways of processing reality and making meaning when the world feels unstable.Through it all, scent remains a vital thread. George offers insight into how fragrance interacts with identity and place: how comfort, memory, culture, and aspiration shape what we wear and how we move through the world.Fragrances mentioned:Eau de Campagne - SisleyÉdition Imperiale - CourvoisierBois d’Encens - Armani PriveBook discussed:The Book of Mirdad: The Strange Story of a Monastery Which Was Once Called The Ark - Mikhail NaimyFind George onInstagram: @intuitive_alchemy_Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →Linked to the Land
Mar 1701:16:50Tap to summarize“Remember. This is your story, no matter what history will claim or what songs people sing. And it’s no one’s place to stop you from telling it.”― Lucy Holland, SistersongIn this episode we explore the space where books and fragrance meet, guided by writer and sensory storyteller Rowan Ambrose. Rowan’s life is shaped by vivid experiences—sailing tall ships, gardening, travelling widely, and savouring the simple pleasures of perfume, fine tea, chocolate, and good coffee. These influences infuse her writing with texture and atmosphere.Rowan now helps businesses find their voice through clear, evocative copy—whether it’s web pages, newsletters, product descriptions, or her speciality: sensory and perfume writing. She brings brands to life with words so her clients don’t have to wrestle with them. She also helps people to find their way to their perfect garden, no matter the size, skill or time availble to tend to it. In our conversation, we discuss low‑maintenance gardening, seasonal connection, and the themes of land and identity in Lucy Holland’s Sister Song. And of course, we pair the novel with a fragrance that captures its earthy, mythic spirit.Fragrances mentioned:Firewater - Jorum Studio Cuir Pampas - Frassai Fille en Anguille ("Girl in (Pine) Needles" - I got that wrong) - Serge LutensSilphium - Stora SkugganFeuille - MiskeoBeen Trying to Meet You - Nosu Forbidden Bloom - Mabelle O’RamaPhoenix Flame - Mabelle O’RamaUndergrowth - Rook Sain No More - NosuPersonne - IconoflyEucris - Geo. F Trumper Book discussed:Sistersong - Lucy Holland Find Rowan onInstagram: @rowan_ambroseWebsite: rowan-ambrose.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Transcribe →